HOLE NEW WORLD

Pip Crombie discovers a unique golfing destination with a dash of culture on the side.

Bà Nà Hills Golf Club’s signature par 3, 16th hole.

St Andrews may be the centuries-old home of modern golf, but the game – protocols intact – has not only survived, but thrived globally, becoming a powerful drawcard for international travellers. Serious golfers and social hackers alike find an exquisite anticipation in packing clubs into a bag sturdy enough for the cargo hold, plotting which courses to conquer and how best to enjoy après-golf. A half day on the greens, balanced with time spent exploring local culture and cuisine makes for the perfect mix – even when non-golfers are along for the ride.

You might be surprised by which countries deliver exceptional golf experiences. Having played in several overseas locations, a standout for me is the Central Coast region of Vietnam.

The major hub of Da Nang is an easy gateway (with Air New Zealand codesharing with Singapore Airlines), and offers access to more than a dozen courses. Expect diverse terrain, from mountain-top championship layouts to links-style seaside experiences, with scenic backdrops featuring lush vegetation and striking elevation changes, or dramatic ocean views and coastal winds.

Fair warning: it can all be wonderfully distracting – and a convenient excuse for the state of your game. Although some courses are attached to larger resorts, basing yourself in Da Nang or the historic town of Hoi An offers a more authentic Vietnamese experience. Most courses are within about an hour’s drive and feature excellent warm-up areas, well-stocked pro shops, quality amenities and solid dining options.

In Bà Nà Hills’ circular clubhouse restaurant, excellent local and international cuisine is served with panoramic views of the course.

Fairways and greens are immaculately maintained, with well-spaced tee times and good on-course facilities.

If time allows, aim for a varied line-up of courses. For me, two rise to the top. The mountain championship layout at Bà Nà Hills Golf Club sits at the foothills of the famed Bà Nà Hills, just 25 minutes from the city. Set among some of the region’s most impressive ranges, this lush, green course was designed by Luke Donald and feels distinctly Vietnam.

If you’re tempted to squeeze in two rounds in a day, a state- of-the-art floodlighting system illuminates all 18 holes after dark.

My second pick is Hoiana Shores Golf Club, a traditional links course by Robert Trent Jones Jr, who’s known for integrating layouts seamlessly into natural landscapes. Here, you’ll contend with firm, sandy turf on a scenic coastal routing, seasonal (but warm) winds, and classic links bunkering – a mix of wasteland and pot bunkers that demand strategy as much as skill.

Closer to Da Nang, our group also enjoyed the Legend Danang Golf Resort (formerly BRG Danang Golf Club), a 36-hole complex featuring two distinct championship courses. The links-style layout by Greg Norman delivers sweeping coastal views, while the parkland course by Jack Nicklaus offers wide fairways, river vistas and strategic bunkering. Golfers of all levels can take on these courses, choosing tees that suit their game and appetite for challenge.

At the Legend Danang Golf Resort, the caddies are clad in sporty blue.

Caddies are compulsory in Vietnam, with one assigned per player. Typically local Vietnamese women, they perch on the back of the golf buggy as you move between shots. Most are highly intuitive, quickly assessing your ability and reading greens with impressive accuracy – the rest, of course, is up to you. Expect to pay around NZ$40 per round, although a good day on the course may loosen the purse strings.

Golf in Vietnam isn’t exactly cheap. As part of a casino complex, Hoiana Shores sits at the top end of Central Coast pricing, at around NZ$500 per round. However, accommodation, dining, shopping and transport are all relatively affordable, which helps to balance your overall spend. If you’re flying domestically, local airlines will often carry a second (golf) bag free of charge. What’s not to love? Time to swing into action.

Best time to go: March–April (warm but not overly hot or wet). August can be extremely hot, while October November often brings heavy rain and flooding.

How to book: Booking direct via golf club websites is possible, although you may be asked to provide copies of credit cards and passports. Language barriers can occasionally complicate things, but many clubs communicate via WhatsApp. Golf booking agents can simplify the process by arranging tee times and transport, though they often quote in US dollars, take a margin on exchange rates and require upfront payment. Always check cancellation policies carefully.

Where to stay: Da Nang offers a wide range of accommodation, from beachside resorts to quaint, authentic boutique hotels.

Other tips: Bring US dollars for tipping, use a Wise card or similar for payments, and download Bing, widely used in Asia for ride-hailing services.

RIVER TO RIDGE

A new Canterbury high-country walk with big views, great food and luxurious stays provides just the right amount of challenge for UNO editor Hayley Barnett.

Multi-day walks have become somewhat of a thing for 30- and 40-somethings lately. You can barely take a whiff of wine without being hassled to join some hodgepodge friend group’s lofty goal of hiking 100km in four days. It’s the new multi-day winery tour, only much better for your waistline.

When the opportunity arose to walk a brand new 31km hike just outside of Christchurch, I jumped at it, eager to regale friends with my ambitious yet achievable adventure – one that surely no one had even heard of, let alone completed. But it seems the two families who set up and manage the two-day walk are particularly good at marketing, since the first person I told has already booked in a group for later in the year.

RockRidge is an all-inclusive walk located in the Windwhistle area of Canterbury, about 45 minutes’ drive from Christchurch, and takes in a multitude of terrain, including mountain peaks, farmland, valleys, rocks and riverbeds.

Rumbling up the driveway, our view of the Birchview Homestead is the first sign my husband, Karl, and I are in for something special.

Birchview Homestead.

Henry McElrea greets us at the door and gives us a brief introduction to the huge, stone building with five bathrooms and five bedrooms that sleep up to 10 people.

Originally built in 1928 and extended in the 1980s, the homestead sits among established gardens, native bush and a meandering stream. It’s part of Birchview Farm, a property with farming roots stretching back to 1913. Today, it remains closely tied to the McElrea family, who are among the driving forces behind RockRidge.

Henry, raised at Birchview, and his wife Megan have helped change the property into a place that somehow feels traditional and modern all at once. It’s a classic rural home, with formal dining spaces, log fires and upstairs rooms looking out over the surrounding high-country landscape. It’s also an elegant and welcoming beginning to our journey.

As Henry heads off, he leaves instructions for dinner, which awaits us in the fridge – 55-day-aged Angus beef with roasted vegetables and salad, matched with a beautiful local red wine. Dessert is a chocolate torte with berry coulis. All the food is prepared by Fable Terrace Downs, a golf resort down the road, renowned for its cuisine. From the first night, it’s clear this trip will be worth it for the food alone.

The next morning, after breakfast and a leisurely start, the walk begins in earnest. Day one runs from Birchview Homestead to Quartz Hill Quarters: 13 km, six to seven hours with breaks, and roughly 1000m of climbing. It sounds intimidating, but in reality the route unfolds in chapters and includes waterfalls, spring fed creeks and ancient cave systems said to date back some 80 million years.

The ascent to Snowy Peak and High Peak Summit is the headline act. We have morning tea at altitude, which feels deserved. Canterbury spreads below plains, braided rivers, lakes and distant ranges surrounding us on every side.

Later comes the 300m climb to Cooks Cliff, with a shortcut available. We ignore that and go the long way, before descending toward Copper Creek Watering Hole, where a dip in a man-made watering hole awaits. Here, we’re collected by a four-wheel buggy, and driven 5km down to Quartz Hill Quarters.

By the time we arrive, our legs are humming, our cheeks are wind-burnished and, thankfully, the second night’s accommodation feels glorious. We head directly for the hot tub and sauna, which are situated right on the edge of where the sheep are grazing. It’s a surreal experience to be surrounded by your upcoming dinner, but, if you’re not vegetarian, it also makes you appreciate the farm-to-plate ethos on a whole other level.

Food, as I mentioned, is central to the entire concept. Georgie and Dan Harper are the owners of Quartz Hill Station, a third-generation farm with deer, Angus cattle and sheep, and all of the food is built around locally sourced produce.

Slow-cooked Lumina lamb is the star of the show, and the berry crumble and ice cream pushes me pleasantly over the edge.

Day two offers another welcome fork in the trail: a shorter 10km half-day option, or a fuller 18km route for those still feeling ambitious. If you choose the longer walk, you’re rewarded with some of the most memorable geology of the trip – formations named The Brothers, The Mole, Periscope Rock and Hanging Falls – before descending through native bush of kōwhai, black beech and honeydew.

Unfortunately for us, fog has descended on the entire Windwhistle area, and so we choose the shortcut, which slices off a good chunk of the overall distance.

Eventually, the track joins the original Washpen Falls adventure walk, where there’s a waterfall to linger beside, and where heritage hydroelectric features add to all the grandeur.

The finale feels strangely civilised: afternoon tea back at Birchview Homestead, with the option of a hot shower before departure. We wash off the day’s mud, take advantage of the giant jar of what might be the best biscotti I’ve ever tasted, and sit in front of the fire as we await our shuttle back to Christchurch.

RockRidge’s genius seems to lie in understanding that many travellers want wilderness without the hardship. The McElreas and Harpers haven’t diluted the high-country experience, but they have framed it beautifully. You still earn the views and feel the miles, but the best part, for me at least – besides the stunning views and lush accommodation – is that someone has already thought about dinner.

ROCKRIDGE.NZ

INTO THE WILD

From Big Five encounters to Cape Winelands and Cape Town’s coast, YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem explores South Africa’s extraordinary richness firsthand.

WORDS LIZ FRENCH

Most travellers to South Africa have wildlife top of mind, then discover so much more in a country of remarkable depth and diversity.

YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem’s Brenda Stephen and Lydia Haydon each visited this big, beautiful country recently. Both returned raving, and not just about their safaris. From vibrant cities to untamed wilderness and world-class wine regions, they got a tantalising taste of the best of South Africa.

Getting to South Africa involves just two international flights. Brenda and Lydia agree that any uneasiness you may anticipate is completely allayed by the hosts of the tours they can organise for you, ensuring you’re wrapped in an exhilarating bubble from the minute you step off the plane.

A LAND REVEALED

Between them, Brenda and Lydia experienced three private game reserves and that being a guest confers pertinent privileges. Thrill at wildlife sightings from the comfort of a purpose built jeep with guides who have an intuitive (aided by technology!) ability to get you up close and personal with elusive and unforgettable beasts in their natural habitat. Game drives typically start before sunrise, with golden light spilling across the savannah, and are repeated from late afternoon for entrancing evening encounters.

Brenda stayed at the Lion Sands River Lodge in the prestigious Sabi Sand Game Reserve. It borders Kruger National Park, a public reserve often congested with traffic. Add the luxury of a suite above the river where wildlife wanders past your deck, and the benefits of a private reserve richly reward your investment.

The luxury continued at Ngala Private Game Reserve with extraordinary encounters with rhino and elephants, and wild dogs on the hunt. The Ngala Treehouse experience where guests spend a night open air under a star spangled sky was described by Brenda as the perfect honeymoon or once in a lifetime stay.

Lion Sands River Lodge

Lydia arrived by air at Phinda Private Game Reserve in the KwaZulu Natal region, an equally amazing private reserve with six luxury lodges spread out over varied habitats and safaris into areas where the ‘big five’ (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo) roam freely. The abundance of wildlife and the proximity of unsoiled coastline and spectacular reefs make Phinda the perfect bush and beach adventure.

CITIES, COASTLINES AND CABERNET

South Africa is much more than the big five. Brenda found Johannesburg (Joburg to the locals) far beyond expectations. Learning of the country’s journey to democracy on a visit to Constitution Hill proved a “poignant eye-opener”, and an inspection of the legendary Rovos Rail (The Pride of Africa Train) encouraged her to recommend this luxury rail journey.

Of all the most lauded hotels Brenda stayed in on her tour, the waterfront Cape Grace Hotel in Cape Town was a favourite, perfect for exploring one of the world’s most beautiful coastal cities, where style, culture and cuisine is ever framed by the silhouette of Table Mountain. Excursions to Chapman’s Peak (cited as the most scenic drive in the world), to windswept Cape Point, and to see the penguins at Boulders Beach were among many highlights.

Table Mountain, Capetown.

Lydia relaxed and imbibed happily in the Cape Winelands, staying at the utterly gorgeous Franschhoek Country House and Villas, where vineyard covered valleys meet Cape Dutch architecture. A day trip from Cape Town to the wine country gave Brenda a taste of its charm and vintages.

In just under two weeks, these YOU Travel & Cruise consultants experienced the wonder of wildlife in superior private reserves, cultural richness, scenic beauty and historical significance in the cities, renowned wine regions and culinary experiences – all enhanced by luxury accommodation, each exuding unique character. What’s not to love? Lydia’s well qualified to name South Africa, “one of my top three travel destinations”.

Brenda’s and Lydia’s trips were aimed at achieving a lot more than having a wonderful holiday. Like many others taken by the YOU Travel & Cruise team, their South Africa journeys were all about gaining personal experience they can share with their clients. YOU Travel & Cruise believes that by investing in knowledge, they add genuine value as travel advisors and facilitators, and enhance the enjoyment and satisfaction travel provides – not to mention the peace of mind of having a professional on the job as you plan and embark on much-anticipated adventures worldwide.

Sundowners at Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.

If South Africa is on your radar, the experts at YOU Travel & Cruise in the Bethlehem Town Centre would love to share their first-hand knowledge of what makes this country an extraordinary destination, and to curate an unforgettable holiday for you. YOUTRAVELBETHLEHEM.CO.NZ

A GRAND ADVENTURE

UNO editor Hayley Barnett and her right-hand man tootle over the hill to get a fresh perspective on a little town with a lot going for it. This is an accessible getaway if ever there was one.

Though it might have a reputation as the “town of trees and champions”, over the past decade Cambridge has become a destination known more for its polished hospitality and thriving shopping scene. Over one fun-filled weekend, the quaint equestrian town proved itself to be a surprisingly perfect pick for a romantic getaway.

One Friday afternoon, my husband and I drove over from Tauranga, stopping at the Sculpture Park at Waitakaruru Arboretum on our way in. This is a place I’ve been dying to visit, but on our many drives to Auckland, it has never seemed like the right time.

Built in a former quarry and now spanning hectares of regenerated landscape, the park weaves more than 100 sculptures through a 2km walking trail of ponds, cliffs and thousands of trees. It’s basically an art gallery in nature, and makes for a great hike before the beginning of an indulgent weekend ahead.

The Sculpture Park at Waitakaruru Arboretum.

From there, we headed into a different vibe entirely. Cambridge’s centre is compact and refined, with independent boutiques, cafés and galleries lining the streets.

We checked into The Clements Hotel, a new concept in an old heritage building right in the middle of town. Having been given a contemporary polish of late, the rooms are modern yet also traditional, consistent with the building’s historic character. Its central location makes it an ideal base for a weekend away.

Cambridge is known for being walkable, and staying here meant most of our weekend unfolded on foot. Dinner was easy. We simply went downstairs to the hotel’s light-filled, gallery-style restaurant that leans into seasonal New Zealand produce.

The Gallery at The Clements Hotel.

In keeping with its understated nod to tradition, the offering veers confidently towards the classics – beef tartare, slow-cooked pork belly, glazed duck breast, confit chicken. Nothing feels overly complicated or intimidating, yet the execution is exceptional.

Canning our vague plans to hit the town after dessert – black forest chocolate brûlée, no less – we admitted defeat and agreed a movie might be more appealing. The charming Tivoli Cinema is just around the corner, offering intimate viewing spaces and the option to enjoy a glass of wine.

The next morning started at the local markets, where the region’s produce and small-scale makers are on full display. Cambridge is known for its quality food and artisan goods, and the weekly market is a great way to experience everything it has to offer. Fresh baking, locally made products… It’s a relaxed, unhurried way to begin the day.

Cambridge Distillery Co.

Later, we made our way to the Cambridge Distillery Co, a small operation owned by two couples who joined forces during lockdown to create a business that reflects the wider craft movement in the region. Tastings offer a glimpse into the area’s growing food and drink scene without feeling overly commercial.

Takapoto Estate winery.

A short drive out of town took us to Takapoto Estate winery, near Lake Karāpiro, which combines a vineyard and show-jumping event grounds. Sitting outside with a glass, looking out over the landscape, it’s easy to see why the cellar door is packed with weekend tasters. We settled in with a cheese platter and watched the entertainment unfold between a couple of hen’s parties, proving it’s also a popular spot for celebrations too.

Te Awa River Ride at Lake Karāpiro.

On Sunday, we decided to get a little more active. With Riverside Adventures, we set out on an e-bike ride along the Waikato River, starting at Avantidrome, New Zealand’s national cycling hub. The route follows part of the Te Awa River Ride, a mostly flat, well-maintained trail that connects Cambridge with the wider region. Even for casual cyclists, the e-bikes make it an easy, enjoyable ride. The path winds along the river, through farmland and native bush, before opening out towards Lake Karāpiro, known for its calm waters and scenic setting.

The journey itself is a chance to move through the town and outskirts at a pace that still allows you to take it all in, and being picked up and returned to town makes the whole trip feel seamless.

Alpino in the town centre.

Back in Cambridge, the afternoon slipped easily into more wandering, with a few last stops at boutiques, a coffee and yet another visit to the Cambridge Distillery.

The combination of experiences in art, food, cycling and shopping, all within close reach, makes Cambridge an easy trip for anyone who loves culture, adventure and food.

For couples in particular, that balance is hard to beat. There’s enough to fill a weekend, but also plenty of space to do very little at all. And it’s surprisingly hard to leave.

MIDWINTER MAGIC

It’s tempting to hunker down and hibernate, but let’s not allow the chilly season to pass us by without some memorable moments to show for it. A trip to Whakatāne has all the ingredients to make it a bright spot on your calendar.

The memories we make during our school holidays can last an entire lifetime – a worthy investment, if you think about it. Some are of simple pleasures and rituals experienced at home, while in other instances, travelling even a short distance can provide something new and novel that captures the imagination long after the trip is over.

As the winter term break approaches, so too is Trust Horizon Light Up Whakatāne, an eye-opening experience right here in our regional neighbourhood. Whether you have holidaying kids in tow or not, it presents a vibrant – and free – antidote to winter’s darker days. From 6pm to 9pm from July 11 to 18, Whakatāne’s town centre and riverfront will be aglow and abuzz with art installations (many interactive), sculptures and digital displays, music and dance.

While you’re planning your trip in this neck of the woods, check out some of the best places to eat, play and stay.

EAT

THE COMM - When you’ve been a local institution since 1894, you must be doing something right. Seven days a week, in a thoughtfully preserved heritage building, The Comm offers a stacked menu complete with kids’ meals, and drinks including beer and cider from Good George Brewing on tap.

THE WAGON - Like its twin eatery in Pāpāmoa, the claim to fame of The Wagon in Whakatāne is gourmet burgers. Those who wish to eat vegan or gluten-free will be pleased to hear the menu does not leave you out in the cold.

OLIVE BRANCH - For a more elevated experience, put on your going-out top to dine at Olive Branch. It’s run by two brothers, whose Mediterranean DNA is woven throughout, a delicious international influence that’s balanced by their focus on local ingredients and suppliers.

PLAY

KIWI WANDERING TRAIL - Due to its close proximity to the bush, kiwi can be heard from the CBD and have been spotted in backyards, earning Whakatāne a name as the Kiwi Capital of the World. Providing cute, free, low-key fun, 10 life-size kiwi statues are dotted on a one-hour (1.6km) trail around town for visitors to spot. Download the guide before you go or pick one up at the i-site or Te Kōputu a Te Whanga a Toi Library and Exhibition Centre.

BIKE TRAILS - There are bike trails and more bike trails around these parts. Challenge yourself to ticking off some or all of the Motu Trails Cycleway, one of the 22 great rides that make up Ngā Haerenga, the New Zealand Cycle Trail. You might make biking your reason to drive over the hill to roll along the nice, flat, 2.9km Ōhope Harbourside Trail on two wheels, or go further afield to kick into gear at the Onepū Mountain Bike Park, which caters to all ages and abilities.

EASY WALKS - What will you see if you lace up your sneaks for the hour-long Fairbrother Loop Walk? As well as sensational scenery, the downloadable map lists the birds and insects to keep an eye out for. For those in need of a dappled nervous-system reset, the Mokorua Bush Scenic Reserve walk (1-1.5 hours) is a similarly tranquil experience that sees you strolling beneath the canopy of native trees amid tinkling birdsong.

STAY

BEACHPOINT APARTMENTS - Occupying prime waterfront real estate, these upmarket apartments are fully self-contained (including kitchen and laundry) but serviced with linen and towels. Undercover parking, a heated outdoor swimming pool, a fitness room and a BBQ area might see all the boxes ticked for you.

ŌHOPE BEACH RESORT - Go even more high-end here, where you can opt for accommodation that has views of the ocean on one side or the harbour on the other. Choose from two- or four-bedroom apartments, or if you’re feeling a bit swanky, book into a penthouse. All guests gain access to swimming, spa and lap pools, plus a tennis court, gym, sauna, games room and conservatory.

ONE88 ON COMMERCE - A drawcard of this motel for anyone with waterbabies is that it’s within walking distance of the Aquatic & Fitness Centre and its kid’s beach pool, spas and hydroslide. It’s also 10 minutes’ walk from The Strand, home to those eateries we mentioned. If it sounds like a bit of you, you’ll be even happier to hear you’ll end your stay well-rested, courtesy of the one- or two-bedroom units’ super-king beds, flexible layouts and well-appointed bathrooms, some with big spa baths. WHAKATĀNE.COM

DARE TO DRIFT

Tauranga local Mel Conrad and her family press pause on everyday life to throw caution to the wind and set off on a dream family adventure around the world.

Leaving NZ for a family gap year

When we told friends and family we were packing up our lives to explore the world with our two young daughters, the reactions were mixed. From “wow, that’s incredible!”, to “what about schooling?”, and “have you won Lotto?” - and occasionally, just a simple, “why?” Often there was a look - half admiration, half concern. As if we had casually announced we were slightly crazy.

To be fair, there were days we wondered the same. But the truth wasn’t dramatic. We hadn’t won Lotto or lost our minds. We simply knew our girls were growing quickly, and this was the season to prioritise time and take a family gap year.

So we did. We took the girls out of school, rented our home and bought a one-way ticket to Vietnam. We didn’t really have a real plan, just a sense that time was moving fast and if we didn’t do this now, we might never do it at all.

Bamboo pole fishing in Ninh Binh, Vietnam

Before we left, life was good. It was full and predictable. Time together compressed between bath and bedtimes.

Vietnam was our first destination, and on day one we faced our first challenge of crossing the road. Holding hands, wideeyed, terrified and thrilled, we stepped into a hectic stream of scooters and cars. The trick, we learned, was to walk confidently and let the traffic flow around us.

When we made it across, the adrenaline was unforgettable. The girls raced back to the hotel to call family and report how scared Mum had been and how brave they were. We knew then this experience would stretch all of us.

Vietnam brought lost luggage, lantern-lit evenings, perspective, and as we got braver, a food tour by scooter.

Swimming with locals at Blue Grotto, Malta

From there we drifted through Europe. Malta gave us village festas and daily swims. In southern Spain we stayed long enough to be recognised by locals. Ireland charmed us. France fed us croissants. Portugal gave us near-empty beaches in November.

Ice fishing on Kemijoki River in Rovaniemi, Finland.

Finland was magical. Riding a sleigh through a snow-covered forest to find Santa’s cabin is something we’ll never forget. We walked along a snowy path calling “Santa?” until a jolly Nordic man with the longest beard appeared and welcomed us inside.

He knew everything about the girls, our dog Tilly back home and even had the letters they’d sent from Portugal before Christmas. Watching their faces, and feeling unexpectedly emotional ourselves, was unforgettable.

Northern lights in Levi, Finland

Somewhere between Morocco’s colour, the Tube in London with backpacks and tired children, and the heat in Doha, it clicked. It doesn’t matter where we are, what matters is that we are doing it together.

But being together constantly does take adjustment. There were tears and travel fatigue. We’ve grown thicker skins and a few more grey hairs.

Schooling has been part of the learning curve too. My husband is a teacher, which sounds ideal. It turns out teaching your own children, who see you as Dad first, is humbling and hilarious.

Moroccan cooking class — making tagine.

We shifted to worldschooling, blending curriculum with real life, like reading signs, journalling in cafés, counting money in markets. We’ve joined WorldSchool hubs along the way, where travelling families gather for shared learning and experiences.

Not every day is easy. I remember trying to get our eldest to read a resource aligned with her year level in New Zealand. She refused. Tears all round.

That afternoon in Oxford, she found a second-hand Harry Potter book in an Oxfam store. She counted her coins, worked out if she had enough and proudly bought it. From that moment, she became a reader. Watching her confidence grow has been everything.

Wandering in Lagos, Portugal.

Our youngest is doing well too but some days she finds harder than others. She misses her friends and structure. But the gift of time means we can adapt to her needs.

People assume long-term travel must be wildly expensive - but it doesn’t have to be. We budgeted around NZ$1,400 a week for accommodation, food and local transport, with separate savings for flights and experiences. Renting out our home covers the mortgage. We stay in budget accommodation, visit places often in the off-season, and housesit and cook where possible.

There have been trade-offs. We sold our only investment property to make this season possible. One of us secured a sabbatical. The other stepped away from work.

We love exploring each place and living like locals, and sometimes there are days when no one feels like sightseeing.

One of those days was in Seville. Tired after a long drive, the girls resisted: “Another old building?” So instead of going out, we put on a movie, opened a bottle of Spanish wine, made a supermarket tapas platter and sat watching videos about Seville.

We never left the room that day. And it’s one of the memories we laugh about most.

Some still ask if we’re crazy. Maybe we are, but many now ask how they might do this too. You don’t need a perfect plan, you just need intention. If the idea keeps nudging you, maybe that’s a sign.

For us, this season has given us more than we imagined. We had time to connect, to watch one another grow and to be together without the constant hum of rushing.

Arctic Circle, Finland

CONSIDERING A FAMILY GAP YEAR?

• Get clear on your why

Know what you want from this season before you start planning.

• Run the numbers

Build a weekly budget and separate savings for flights and big experiences.

• Consider renting or housesitting Renting your home or housesitting/houseswaps abroad can significantly reduce costs.

• Think differently about schooling

Consider different options and resources - formal homeschool structure, online resources, worldschooling hubs, talk to your child’s school.

• Travel slower than you think

Fewer destinations and longer stays mean less fatigue and less money spent.

• Choose seasons and destinations wisely

Shoulder and off-season travel stretches your budget further.

• You don’t need forever

A term, six months or a year can be enough. It doesn’t have to be all or nothing.

IG: FAMILYGAPYEARS

CARVE DIEM

A trip is what you make it, and though a Ruapehu ski adventure is guaranteed to be a good time, you can always up the ante. UNO editor Hayley Barnett finds the best spots to play, stay and eat during a family road trip.

PLAY WHAKAPAPA SKI FIELD

There’s something about a trip to the mountain in winter that you just can’t beat. Yes, in New Zealand the weather is always a bit of a gamble, but even on the worst days you come away exhilarated, having made the most of a full day on the slopes. On this particular morning, as we headed up the mountain giddy with excitement and anticipation, the snow gods had delivered. We’d been granted a bluebird day, a park near the top and surprisingly short queues. On the advice of friends travelling with us, we left Turangi around 7.45am, making it an easy half-hour drive with barely any traffic.

We’d opted to hire our skis up the mountain, because there’s nothing worse than clomping up the road in giant plastic boots while accidentally taking people out with your skis and poles every time you turn around.

After collecting our passes, we took the lift down to Happy Valley to be fitted for our gear. The fuss-free service was much quicker than expected and we hurried out onto the learner field to get Oscar, our eight-year-old, to his ski lesson.

Of course, a small glitch in the system (also known as me forgetting to confirm the booking) meant Oscar’s name didn’t appear on the list. So I spent the next two hours impressing my husband by skiing down the valley in a backwards wedge as Oscar screamed. While I’d highly recommend confirming your child’s ski lesson before you arrive, it was actually pretty satisfying watching him finally fly down the slope with a huge grin on his face, just as I was about to throw in the towel.

Before lunchtime, my daughter Poppy and I parted with the boys, who were off on their own adventure to discover the sledding zone in Happy Valley, where you can hire toboggans and carve up the dug out tracks for up to an hour. Instead we rode the famous Sky Waka Gondola up the mountain to muck around in the Rock Garden. It wasn’t long before we ran into more friends and ended up on the deck of the Knoll Ridge Chalet, which overlooks most of the ski field and the stunning three peaks of Tongariro.

As we sat there, slightly in awe of the scenery, a skier suddenly appeared over one of the peaks, impressing everyone as he carved down the face of the mountain before stopping right on the edge of a cliff. A collective gasp rippled through the lunchtime crowd as he jumped, then tumbled like a ragdoll down the slope, finally landing motionless in the snow.

Watching the dramatic rescue quickly became one of the highlights of the kids’ day, as they retold the story to friends for weeks afterwards. Thankfully, he was okay in the end, even popping up weeks later on a skiing Facebook page to share the update.

OHAKUNE

The next day, the weather gods weren’t so kind. We’d planned to head to Turoa Ski Field, just under an hour’s drive from Whakapapa, but the wind had picked up considerably, forcing the mountain to close. Though the kids were disappointed they couldn’t ski, we’d heard that Ohakune, the small ski town at the base of Turoa, was the perfect place to spend a day with kids.

Oscar was also strangely fixated on Ohakune’s giant carrot after a recent school project on the town, so we ventured forth. The Ohakune Carrotland Adventure Park is a wonder, and not just because of its 7.5-metre-tall frontman, voted Landmark of the Year in a nationwide poll in 2023. The carrot has a full cast of veggie companions, including a swede, Brussels sprout, potato and parsnip, which only add to the park’s surreal charm. The kids clambered through playgrounds, raced along the flying fox, and tested their stamina on the endurance course.

Photo ops are everywhere, and it’s impossible not to lean into the silliness. The town’s carrot obsession actually stretches back a century, when Chinese settlers first cleared the land and began growing the crop that would make Ohakune famous.

Today, the region still produces around two-thirds of the North Island’s carrots, making the giant vegetable feel surprisingly well deserved.

Since the carrot park hadn’t quite exhausted the kids’ energy, we headed to another quirky stop just 10 minutes away in Raetihi. Dinosaur House is a chaotic prehistoric wonderland, packed with life-sized dinosaur models, fossils and animatronic creatures that roar into life when you least expect it. There are even movie props, including memorabilia from Jurassic Park, much to Oscar’s delight.

STAY

THE QUARTERS

Tucked away in Tūrangi, The Quarters felt like the perfect hideaway. Just a scenic half-hour drive from Whakapapa, it made getting on the slopes early a breeze without having to stay on the mountain itself. Our two-bedroom family apartment had plenty of space for everyone to unwind after a full day carving up the snow, while the kids claimed their corners and quickly made themselves at home. For couples or solo travellers chasing fresh powder, the studios offered a cosy, pared-back alternative that still felt inviting. Friends opted for one of the studios and simply pumped up an airbed for their 10-year-old. Being fully self-contained meant slow, lazy breakfasts before hitting the road, but we also loved that a short stroll brought us straight to Tūrangi’s dining options, making it easy to hang up ski jackets and enjoy a fuss-free dinner after a big day outdoors.

THEQUARTERS.NZ

LAKE TAUPŌ HOLIDAY RESORT

The challenge in travelling with kids is finding somewhere to stay that will keep them off the iPads. Lake Taupō Holiday Resort ticks all the boxes, being less a holiday park and more a family playground. The thermally heated lagoon pool was the obvious star, with its diving grotto, swim-up bar, giant poolside movie screen, and a pair of twisting hydroslides that had the kids racing each other for hours. The water was warm enough to keep them splashing well after we’d unpacked the car, and the heated villas with electric blankets kept us warm after hopping out. Being just over an hour from Whakapapa made it the perfect base for a mountain adventure, while Taupō’s restaurants, shops, and indoor activities meant we were never short of options on slower days.

LAKETAUPORESORT.CO.NZ

ROCKY MOUNTAIN CHALETS

These chalets in Ohakune felt like a true home away from home. With the mountain closed, we were perfectly content tucked up inside our cosy retreat. After a full day of adventure, we sank into one of the three on‐site spa pools, letting tired legs soak while the kids laughed and played nearby. Just a five-minute stroll took us to Ohakune’s famous playground, making it effortless to keep the little ones entertained. With Tūroa Ski Field just around the corner and plenty of cafés, bars, and eateries on the doorstep, it proved to be a fantastic base for both exploring the slopes and soaking up the charm of Ohakune.

ROCKYMOUNTAINCHALETS.COM

EAT

JOHNNY NATION’S CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR SHOP

After an afternoon at the park, we treated the kids to something sweet at Johnny Nation’s Chocolate Éclair Shop in Ohakune, and, as expected, it was a hit. Famous for its world-renowned Ohakune chocolate eclairs, the little shop feels like a treasure trove of treats, offering up decadent cakes and pies sandwiches, and even fresh vegetables for the grown-ups. The eclairs, filled with fresh cream, are a daily ritual for locals and visitors, and it’s easy to see why. The kids were also kept entertained by the myriad of post-it notes left by diners and pressed all over the walls. By the time we’d finished, the sugar rush had everyone smiling, and it was clear that Ohakune’s sweet reputation is very well deserved.

FB: JOHNNYNATIONSCHOCOLATEECLAIRSHOP

DIXIE BROWNS

On more helpful advice from friends, we pulled up to Dixie Browns in the heart of Taupō and instantly understood its reputation as a lakefront favourite for families. The place buzzes with energy and the food options are endless, from juicy, flame-grilled burgers and golden fish and chips to melt-in-your-mouth slow-cooked ribs and indulgent milkshakes. The portions are generous and the kids happily dived in while we lingered over our drinks, watching the sun go down behind the lake.

DIXIEBROWNS.CO.NZ

MATTERHORN

When in Ohakune, we made sure to stop for a meal at Matterhorn, and it didn’t disappoint. This cosy alpine-style restaurant, tucked inside the Powderhorn Chalet just above the lively Powderkeg Bar, has a menu to suit everyone, from hearty classics to more elevated dishes. The highlight was watching the mulled wine being gently warmed over the open fire right in front of us. It would be a great way to unwind after a day on (or off) the mountain. It’s wonderfully family‐friendly, with space for the kids to wander, and has plenty of options to keep little diners happy.

POWDERHORN.CO.NZ

GOLDEN CRUST PIZZA

After a day on the slopes, we found ourselves pulling up to Golden Crust Pizza in Tūrangi for dinner. Tucked just off the main road, this family‐friendly pizzeria has earned a reputation locally for its generous, flavour‐packed pizzas and welcoming vibe. The menu is bigger than you might expect. There’s BBQ chicken, peri‐peri and meat‐lover’s pies loaded with toppings, plus burgers, thick shakes and sides for anyone who’s still peckish after a day outdoors. We ordered a few different pizzas and the kids loved picking slices straight off the board. Plenty of locals and visitors were stopping by while we were there, which felt like a good sign, and between rounds of pizza and thick shakes, everyone agreed it was a pit stop worth making before heading back to base.

GOLDENCRUST.CO.NZ

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

Karl Puschmann puts the new Lexus flagship SUV, the RZ 550e F Sport, to the test on an overnight roadtrip through the winding Waikato. But, is the car a refined, luxury cruiser or a performance powerhouse? As it turns out, it’s both.

PHOTOS JAHL MARSHALL

A trip to Cambridge seemed the perfect excuse to test drive the new flagship EV SUV from Lexus. But really, it was the other way round. The sleek RZ 550e F Sport provided a compelling reason to drop the kids at Nana’s and hit the open road.

As the crown jewel of their EV range, the F Sport is brimming with high-end tech and all the creature comforts Lexus is renowned for. The package is topped off with a stylish, head-turning design and bleeding- edge performance that practically demands to be taken out of the congested city streets and let loose. I was happy to oblige.

As you’d expect, tackling the mountainous Kaimai Range proved no challenge. With a hefty 402-horsepower on tap, we thundered up its steep, winding slope and had more than enough juice to safely pass the lumbering trucks that pulled into the slow vehicle bays on the short corners of the decline.

From there, State Highway 29 is a mostly straightforward journey to Cambridge, which allowed me to get some real-world testing of the car’s driver features. These are bundled under the Lexus Safety System+ 3.0 umbrella and include Lane Tracing Assist, which helps keep the car centred in its lane when adaptive cruise control is engaged, All-Speed Dynamic Radar Cruise Control, which automatically adjusts acceleration and braking to maintain a safe following distance, and Curve Speed Management, which can reduce speed through bends when cruise control is active.

I found that letting the driver-assist systems shoulder much of the steering, acceleration and braking reduced fatigue, although this would likely be more noticeable on longer trips, with Cambridge only a little over an hour away. With these features engaged, the car can briefly track the lane on its own, though it quickly prompts you to keep your hands on the wheel if it senses you’ve let go.

Setting your speed and engaging the systems is as easy as pressing one of the touch-sensitive buttons on the steering yoke (yes, steering yoke, not steering wheel) once you reach your desired cruising speed. The yoke is the F Sport’s marquee feature, and we’ll get to it in a moment.

From there, you can run adaptive cruise control on its own, or add lane tracing assist for steering support, with the option to have both working together. Their status appears in the heads-up display, projected onto the windscreen directly in the driver’s line of sight.

This may be the sport model, but the ride inside was never anything less than comfortable and whisper-quiet, even on the plentiful stretches of chipseal road. The silence provided the perfect canvas for the impressive 13-speaker Mark Levinson sound system to shine, while the Ultrasuede-trimmed sports seats, with their blue- stitch detailing, proved both comfortable and supportive.

With my phone sitting on the charging pad, it was simple to navigate Apple CarPlay through the Infotainment system’s crisp and bright 14-inch touchscreen display. It was too nice a day to use the heated seats or steering yoke, but pressing a button to switch the Dynamic Sky panoramic roof from opaque to transparent flooded the cabin with natural light and

blue sky, making the spacious interior feel even airier. Much like the seats, the position of the steering yoke can be electronically adjusted for reach and height, with memory settings allowing multiple drivers to quickly return to their preferred seat, steering and mirror positions.

This is a good time to talk about the synthetic leather–clad steering yoke, which replaces the traditional wheel and looks like it’s been transplanted from an F1 car, complete with what Top Gear’s Jeremy Clarkson dubbed “flappy paddles.” The RZ 550e also ditches the mechanical steering column in favour of a full steer-by- wire system, replacing traditional mechanical linkages with digital precision. It’s easy to oversteer at first, but I quickly acclimated to its responsiveness, with the smallest turn of the wrist producing surgical maneuvers.

Not that I was too worried about precision or scratching the 20-inch alloy wheels, or their aerodynamic resin covers, when I pulled up outside the newly renovated, historic Clements Hotel, our lodgings for the night in the heart of Cambridge. Instead, I happily pushed a button and let the Advanced Park system navigate us into the space. Lexus EVs have had this feature for a couple of years, but it still feels like magic every time, and there’s a satisfying moment seeing the car parked perfectly in the middle of even the tightest spot.

We’d left Tauranga on a full charge and were still sitting above 60 percent on arrival, which was impressive, considering I’d been fiddling with every button I could reach, had the Climate Concierge cranking, and had really been putting the car through its paces.

We cruised all around Cambridge and ventured out to the Sculpture Park at Waitakaruru Arboretum, roughly 20 minutes from town, as well as the Takapoto Estate Winery, which was another 20 minutes in the opposite direction, before bidding farewell to The Clements, packing our two suitcases into the F Sport’s spacious boot, and heading home the next day.

There was one feature I’d purposefully saved for the return trip: the 550e F Sport’s exclusive Manual Mode. This uses the flappy paddles on the yoke to physically simulate an 8-speed manual gearbox, essentially transforming the car from an automatic into a rocket-powered manual, although it must be stressed that in auto, the car is no slouch, capable of throwing you back against your seat as it rockets to 100km/h in a mere 4.4 seconds.

Taking manual control of all that power was a thrill, seeing the rev counter race up to the red and hearing the engine roar as I planted my foot down. But, you may be thinking, this is an EV - I shouldn’t have been hearing any roaring whatsoever out of its battery- powered motor. And you’re right, I shouldn’t have been. But Lexus has very cleverly equipped the F Sport with what they call Active Sound Control, which simulates the sound of a high-performance engine, roaring, rising and falling in perfect sync with every flappy paddle gear shift. It makes for a visceral experience and one that is a heck of a lot of fun.

With an advertised 437 km range on a single charge, I had no battery anxiety at all on our trip, even with how much time we spent in the car and my enthusiastic pushing of the vehicle. In fact, I didn’t charge it at all until we got back to Tauranga, where I gave the car a quick blat from one of the Quick Charge stations at The Crossing while we grabbed a bite to eat.

With its sharp style, racy split rear spoiler, blacked out trim and aerodynamic body kit, the 550e F Sport leaves no doubt that it means business, while the sophistication of its design reinforces its premium luxury roots. This is reflected in its driving experience.

You can cruise in supreme comfort or harness the thrills of its power. Whichever you choose,it doesn’t disappoint.

LEXUS.CO.NZ/EN/DEALERS/TAURANGA

CRUISE CONTROL

YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem’s Catherine Membery boards Silver Moon to see what sets Silversea apart - and why small-ship cruising continues to win over seasoned travellers.

Catherine Membery and her husband joined Silver Moon in Hobart, midway through a voyage from Auckland to Melbourne. With just 596 guests on board, the scale felt calm and intimate from the outset.

The service was a standout for me,” she says. “The Silversea crew numbers nearly match that of its passengers, and they were unfailingly respectful, friendly and efficient. We loved meeting our butler and truly valued how he personalised our experience; and witnessed our fellow passengers also enjoying their interactions with the attentive crew.”

Many guests on board were seasoned travellers choosing to simplify the way they see the world. Catherine met a woman who, after a lifetime of travel, said cruise life suited her perfectly, allowing her to continue overseas journeys without the usual logistics.

Only unpack once

It’s one of cruising’s simplest luxuries. Settled into their ocean-view suite, Catherine appreciated the ease of unpacking just once and waking somewhere new each day. She explored Hobart independently but recommends organised shore excursions. “That way you always ensure you get back to the ship on time!” she laughs.

Broaden the mind

On-board experiences are varied enough that the ship becomes part of the destination. “So much to do and so many interesting people to meet,” says Catherine. “Meals are magic when dining options are so varied, with a range of included wines, notably regional varieties. Among the restaurants with exceptional cuisine and service, Silver Note was a special treat, an intimate but lively space with pianist and jazz singer. Salt Bar became a regular for cocktails and socialising with other guests. The immersive S.A.L.T. (Sea And Land Taste) destination based culinary programme is a feature I enjoyed on Silver Moon.”

Daily activities range from entertainment and lectures linked to ports of call to time in the pool, on deck, at the gym or in the spa.

The world is your oyster

Silversea’s 12 ships sail to more than 900 destinations worldwide, from Northern Europe’s Baltic and the Mediterranean to Asia, Alaska and closer-to-home itineraries around New Zealand and Australia. Expedition voyages to Antarctica and the Arctic add another layer for those seeking something more remote.

“There’s a reason so many overseas tourists cruise New Zealand and Australia,” Catherine points out. “Arriving in Melbourne by sea was spectacular.”

“Experiencing a Silversea cruise for myself exceeded my already high expectations. What a wonderful way to see the world.”

YOUTRAVELBETHLEHEM.CO.NZ

WHAKATĀNE’S LAST TASTE OF SUMMER

Take your pick of these tantalising ways to savour the best food in the Eastern Bay.

Long Lunch Italian Style

Autumn in the Eastern Bay of Plenty seems to hold onto summer that much longer. The days are warm and calm, the ocean still inviting, and the coastline feels wide open once the holiday crowds have gone. It’s a great time to plan a trip to Whakatāne and the surrounding coast, especially with plenty happening across the region.

This season, the Eastern Bay is hosting a mix of foodie events, some part of the Bay’s popular Flavours of Plenty festival, that all highlight the region’s produce, fresh seafood and generous hospitality.

FARMING LIKE GRANDAD

April 18 — Te Teko Racecourse

While not all about food, this is one of the most-loved events on the autumn calendar. See the Clydesdale horses, sheep shearing, tractors, and farm machinery (old and new). There are wagon rides, vintage cars, exhibitions by the Axe Men, chainsaw races, farm animals, craft stalls, old-style kids’ games, food and live music - a classic country day out. Please note: due to farm animals, kindly leave dogs at home.

---

ŌHIWA OYSTER FESTIVAL

May 16 - Port Ōhope Wharf

Now in its third year, the Ōhiwa Oyster Festival returns with a day celebrating the start of the oyster season. Hosted by Tio Ōhiwa, the festival features freshly shucked oysters, seafood vendors from around Aotearoa, chef demonstrations, live music, markets and competitions, all set against the harbour backdrop at Port Ōhope Wharf. Tickets include entry and access to entertainment, activities and oyster stations throughout the day.

---

SHUCKED & POURED: ŌHIWA OYSTERS X MATA BEER

April 17 — Mata Brewery

A guided tasting that pairs freshly shucked Tio Ōhiwa oysters with a curated selection of Mata beers. Explore how different beer styles complement the briny character of the oysters, including a signature “oyster shooter”.

---

THE BIG FAT GREEK CYPRIOT LUNCH

April 18 - Awakaponga Community Hall

An instant sell-out in 2025, this lively event returns with a generous Greek Cypriot feast served meze-style, alongside music and plenty of convivial atmosphere.

---

SMOKE ON THE WATER

April 19 - Fisherman’s Wharf

Join Fisherman’s Wharf for a spectacular evening celebrating the craft of open-fire cooking. Enjoy a smoky four-course dinner, paired with drinks, and cooked entirely over live flames by renowned chef Paul Patterson.

---

SMOKE, FIRE & BBQ

April 25 - The Run 15

Celebrate the fundamentals of flavour with a campfire feast under the stars. Go off-grid for a one-night-only farm dining experience featuring generous barbecue, tips and tricks from the pit, and optional hands-on moments - all enjoyed fireside beneath clear country skies.

---

LE REPAS VAGABOND

April 25 — Waingarara Valley

A 12-course wandering meal of chef-led surprises inspired by Spanish, French, and Mediterranean flavours. This roaming feast promises creativity, generous flavour and plenty of surprises along the way. Bon Appétit. Sahten. Buen provecho.

MORE TO TICKLE THE TASTEBUDS MYSTERY FOOD TOUR

April 18 — Whakatāne

ALL YOU CAN EAT TACO NIGHT

April 22 & 29 - Cadera

NOSE TO TAIL BBQ FEAST

May 1 - The Smokin’ Goose

APPRENDRE PIZZA + CROISSANT

May 2 - L’Atelier

LONG LUNCH ITALIAN STYLE

May 2 - Top Shelf

INTO THE WILD

The Hollyford Wilderness Experience offers Liz French a rare chance to explore remote Fiordland in comfort.

PHOTOS LIZ FRENCH + SUPPLIED

Sometimes it takes the eyes of foreigners to make you appreciate your own country. While I was walking (more like striding) along the native foliage canopied track, thinking, “This is a lovely bit of bush, but no more spectacular than I’ve seen on many tramps before,” two American women in our group were in tears of awe at the beauty of it, at greens so vivid they seemed artificially enhanced.

We were on the first day of the three-day Hollyford Wilderness Experience. There were 14 in our group: a fun-loving family of five from Chicago, two gobsmacked girls from Denver, another from Sydney, an acerbic retired medical professor and his quick-witted wife from Nelson, my partner Mark and me from Tauranga, plus our two guides, Jack and Rosie, both in their twenties, both people you would trust your life with.

Lunch above the river broke up the day. The track is mainly flat with one gentle incline over the 168-metre Little Homer Saddle. We had a hell of a time getting to Te Anau the day before, plagued by Air New Zealand cancellations and postponements, and finally arriving, minus bags, after midnight. Luckily, we had the prescience to wear our boots and have all we needed for this trip in our backpacks.

As I was a bit fatigued before I even started, it was a relief to finally arrive at Ka Tuku (Pyke Lodge) and be welcomed by our hosts, Stephane and Caro, who told us this was the first fine day in weeks. As Fiordland gets something like 300 days of rain a year, you do have to be prepared for it. The first day is the longest walk by far — 19.5 kilometres from the Hollyford Road end to the first lodge.

I love a river walk so I was delighted to find that, while we spent a lot of time shrouded in bush, we also had views across the Hollyford River to the Darren Mountains, giving us a good sky quotient.

A couple of dramatic waterfalls and Talk about sophisticated rustic luxury. A comfy room with ensuite, drying room (good when you are only carrying 4kg and one spare pair of knickers), and a big lounge where we enjoyed a pre-dinner platter with as much beer or wine as we wanted, followed by venison for dinner. We were in bed before the lemon tart.

The second day delivered the expected drizzle and an easier and more varied experience. Fortified by a good sleep and eggs benedict for breakfast I revelled in the return walk to Lake Alabaster in all its mystic glory, the greens of surrounding bush glowing even brighter in the rain.

Hidden Falls.

We took a slight detour over the longest swing bridge in Fiordland, which is also the start of the Demon Trail, suitable for highly experienced trampers only, and which the Hollyford Wilderness Experience avoids by scooting us past in a jetboat.

The hour-long trip followed the river into Lake McKerrow via a stop at Jamestown, the site of a failed West Coast settlement. You feel pathetic in your high-tech gear when you hear the horrendous hardships of the pioneers, and the sheer tenacity of people like Davey Gunn, who farmed in the valley, routinely walking 50kms a day, until he drowned there in 1955.

The day wasn’t over yet. We were jet boated across the river from the lodge to traverse the wild, wet and deserted coastline of Martins Bay. We had walked about 15kms that day so I was well ready to relax in the hot tubs across the lawn from rooms even lovelier than the previous night’s.

Sandflies are an issue on the coast and, as I had refused a funereal black net to cover my head, I resorted to repellent and arm flapping.

Rare bright blue skies greeted us the next day as we jetted up the river and walked back through the soaring trees of ancient podocarp forest. One giant Rimu had such a girth it took seven people to hug it.

Liz French on the wild west coast.

You can’t get a much better finale to a trip than a thrilling helicopter flight along rugged coastline and into dramatic Milford Sound, with the bonus of perfect visibility. A slightly intrepid wander through bush led to a clearing with a safari tent where a long table was set up for a lunch of soup and delicious salads. I wondered how they did this until I discovered a four-wheel drive track to our second night’s accommodation, Waitai (Martins Bay) Lodge.

After the coach ride back to Te Anau on one of the country’s most scenic roads, we farewelled our new friends and I promised them a copy of my story in UNO.

Yes, it was expensive (around $4,000 per person), but priceless as an unforgettable experience.

DRIVING CHANGE

Ebbett is driving into the future with an unusual new high-profile location. It’s a first for the family-owned car dealership, and one which could change the way cars are sold here in New Zealand.

We usually head to the mall for a spot of shopping, a visit to the Food Court or to catch the latest blockbuster movie. But how about picking out your new car before popping in to browse the latest fashions or meeting your friends for coffee?

In Hamilton, you can now do exactly that as the Waikato’s longstanding, family-owned car business Ebbett has opened a new dealership at popular shopping spot, The Base.

“Opening a dealership at a shopping mall is not something we've done before,” store manager Ben van den Engel enthuses. “It’s a whole new concept. It’s exciting and scary at the same time.”

It’s a bold and innovative venture for Ebbett Group, which has long been recognised for its commitment to customer service and the local communities that are home to its dealerships.

Instead of the traditional car yard, Ebbett The Base offers a premium and high-end experience.

“It’s less intimidating for people,” Ben says. “You're not going to this big, shiny showroom with thousands of cars and lots of salespeople waiting to pounce. It’s more intimate and more approachable.”

While a mall-based dealership is a new concept in Aotearoa, Ebbett director Richard van den Engel explains that while the high-profile location attracts foot traffic, the customer experience must remain seamless.

To that end, shoppers can explore vehicles in a premium, transparent environment with glass walls, couch seating and refreshments. For anyone wanting an immediate test drive, the demo vehicles are parked right outside the door. “It’s got the best of both worlds,” Richard smiles.

While it may look and operate differently from traditional car dealerships, all the expected aspects of the buying process can be handled in-store. Trade ins are appraised immediately, financing and insurance are handled in-house and mechanical services are coordinated with Ebbett’s workshop, conveniently located only a minute’s drive away. Simply drop your car off at the mall and they’ll handle the rest.

And unlike traditional dealerships, where customers encounter multiple staff members for sales, finance and aftercare, Ebbett takes a more personal approach.

“You’re dealing with the same person for all of those experiences all the way through,” Ben says. “It’s much more personal. And what Ebbett is all about.”

Another exciting development for Ebbett is the addition of the luxurious and technologically cutting-edge brands Zeekr and Geely range to their stock line-up.

“Zeekr is a premium Chinese brand that is looking to compete with Audi, Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedes,” Ben says. “It’s got all the gizmos and fit and finish that you’d expect of a European car.”

When you consider Zeekr’s heritage, this isn’t surprising. The EV brand is part of the larger Geely family, the ninth largest seller of motor vehicles in the world. Its upmarket siblings include the elite sports car manufacturer Lotus, the European luxury brand Volvo and performance brand Polestar.

Ben explains that the Zeekr range consists of premium, sporty, cutting-edge vehicles, while the Geely range offers premium tech at a price point that's accessible to everyday Kiwis.

“Geely and Zeekr might be new brands in New Zealand, but they’re not small players,” he says. “Chinese manufacturers are often at the forefront of technology and innovation, and both of these brands deliver premium comfort, cutting-edge features, and competitive performance. I had a customer the other day get out of a Porsche Macan to test drive the Geely Starray, and he was blown away with how well it drove and the comfort and finish on the interior.”

Like the store itself, these two flagship brands challenge traditional market expectations. Zeekr, for example, offers high-performance vehicles that rival established European models. Their 7X model accelerates from 0 to 100 km/h in just 3.8 seconds, delivering thrilling performance without compromising on comfort.

The community response to Ebbett’s new shopping mall location has been enthusiastic, with shoppers embracing the new format, testing vehicles, engaging with staff and sharing their impressions.

For both Ben and Richard, the most rewarding aspect has been the alignment of their values with daily operations.

“We try to do things differently at Ebbett. Our values are integrity, care, excellence and respect. And we actually strive to live that each and every day,” Ben says. “We want to give you such a great experience that you come back to buy a second car and tell your friends and family. Our vision is customers for life. That culture permeates through everything we do. It’s a buzz to be a part of.”

EBBETT.CO.NZ/DEALERSHIP/EBBETT-THE-BASE

MELBOURNE IN MOTION

Melbourne is a city of all things to all people, yet it’s as individual as the people who inhabit it. And it’s a place that has Jo Ferris captivated.

I last visited Melbourne 28 years ago, to see The Three Tenors on the MCG’s hallowed grounds. Previous trips include tennis at the Australian Open and catching up with ex-pats in the suburbs. After so long, thoughts of reviving memories certainly whet the appetite.

Keith Urban rocking his guitar riffs was the reason for this trip. However, my foodie friend and I were keen to tempt our taste buds as well — all in just five days.

Given New Zealand’s entire population f its in this eclectic city, exploring everything is impossible. Melbourne is vast. It stops a nation every year for the Melbourne Cup. It’s home of Aussie rules footie and arguably Australia’s soul of culture and cuisine.

A city of immense diversity, it is the 10th largest immigrant population among world metropolitan areas, with around 100 different ethnicities. From Greek to Arabic, Vietnamese to Mandarin, strolling Melbourne’s inner sanctum is akin to mingling amid melodious bird chatter.

Downtown truly buzzes. And, amazingly, everyone is friendly. Helpful too, when you need help with trams.

DO

Melbourne’s free tram system has to be one of its best attractions. While free only within the city centre, routes include all that makes Melbourne unique. Modern trams have replaced Melbourne’s iconic vehicles of the past. However, one trip remains for these distinctive trundlers, as synonymous with Melbourne’s history as Flinders Rail Station.

Route 35 starts near this station — a scenic circuit that departs every 12 minutes, passing notable landmarks and an audio commentary enhancing the experience. Enjoy the free journey as a complete tour, or hop on and off to explore Melbourne’s wider city attractions.

Having also paid for a day ticket on either trams or trains, we asked a friendly copper the best place to go. St Kilda was the instant response. More specifically, Acland Street, last cab on the rank — and a great tip.

Acland Street is home to artisans and foodies. Pavements are festooned with fashion racks; shop windows are adorned with patisseries that put kilos on just looking at them. Wisely avoiding those, we plumped for a pub lunch, before the return trip, past Lunar Park, Docklands and historic landmarks.

QUEEN VICTORIA MARKET

You could spend a week in Queen Victoria Market and probably still not explore everything. The indoor food hall is a banquet of extraordinary proportions. The chatter and banter, smells and samples have to be seen to be believed. This, even before you wander into the craft market and aisles of treasures, clothing and jewellery. And that’s just during the day. Throughout the seasons, night markets take control each Wednesday. Luckily, we caught the last of the winter series. A smorgasbord of international foodie flavours and fashion — nirvana on steroids!

EAT

Melbourne is legendary for its market fare and laneway eateries. With only days to absorb it, our focus was downtown. A stone’s-throw from Flinders Station, Degraves Street is a city favourite. Flanked by restaurants, umbrella seating dominating the lane’s no-vehicle thoroughfare, staff on sidewalks vie for custom; blackboard specials at their side and menu in hand. Lygon Street — famously known as ‘Little Italy’ — is Melbourne’s birthplace of café culture.

After a free tram leg from the city centre, it’s an easy walk to this precinct, past the historic Melbourne Gaol, if you want a sideline attraction. Good to know: Restaurants only come alive as day turns towards evening.

Arriving mid-afternoon, we opted for a sweet treat. Tiramisu — shared, thanks to its gargantuan serving for one!

STAY

Choosing where to stay boils down to what you want to do and how long you have. Being closest to the action was a priority — and affordability. Mercure Melbourne Southbank fitted the bill nicely.

Sitting opposite Flinders Station on the other side of the Yarra River, it was both central and affordable, taxis conveniently outside the front door. To the tennis centre for Keith Urban’s concert, it was around AU$45; and from AU$85 to AU$100 one way to the airport. With twin rooms costing between AU$250 and AU$285, there’s a restaurant if you want. Obviously, we avoided it. This is Melbourne, after all.

Just a five-minute walk away is the Casino by the Yarra River and riverboat restaurants for a true tourist experience, as well as eateries galore within cooee.

As a short hop across the ditch, you can’t beat Melbourne’s inner-city vibe. Its high-rise architecture is mesmerising — sexy with its glistening rainbow of glass-wall artistry; and simply dazzling at night.

After a week basking in it and memories renewed, I’m not waiting another 28 years to return.

HISTORIC, LEGENDARY, UNMISTAKABLE

• Wominjeka (welcome) – acknowledges Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung and Bunurong/Boon Wurrung, the First Peoples of Narrm (Melbourne).

• Flinders Street Station is Australia’s oldest train station, and busiest in the southern hemisphere.

• Free inner-city transport includes the historic W-class trams on Route 35. This City Circle tram passes Melbourne Aquarium, Docklands, Federation Square, Parliament House and St Paul’s Cathedral, among other landmarks.

• Myki is a reusable travel card and ticket for trains, trams and buses. Buy and top up at numerous shops, including 7-Eleven stores.

• CBD landmarks include Yarra River, river boats and walkways, MCG, Melbourne Park sports entertainment precinct, Federation Square, Parliament House, Crown Casino, Arts Centre, Melbourne Sky Deck, Old Melbourne Gaol, Docklands, China Town, among others.

• Queen Victoria Market dates back 140 years; with its historic Meat and Fish Hall, fresh produce, arts and crafts. Seasonal night markets run on Wednesdays, while markets elsewhere have their own distinctive vibe.

• Destination shopping includes Myers, David Jones, Collins Street boutiques, Emporium Melbourne and Melbourne Central centre.

POLES APART

Penguins or polar bears? Are Antarctica and the Arctic similar or poles apart? Sarah Porter from Wild Earth Travel, supplier to YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem, sailed as a guest on the French ship, Ponant Le Commandant Charcot.

Understanding the difference between these two regions at the opposite ends of the globe starts with simple geography. Antarctica is a frozen continent surrounded by ocean; the Arctic is frozen sea surrounded by land.

The Arctic region extends over Canada, Alaska, Greenland, Russia, Norway and Iceland, which are all homes to native communities. Antarctica does not belong to any country and has many scientific bases, but no permanent inhabitants.

WILDLIFE

Wildlife is one of the biggest differences between the polar regions. My first view of Antarctic wildlife on South Shetland Island was a shoreline covered in penguins and seals, whales not far off land. Human contact is limited in the Antarctic which makes the animals fearless and inquisitive and penguins will likely come and inspect your boots.

The word Arctic is derived from the Greek ‘arktos’ meaning’ bear’, and one of the main reasons to visit the Arctic is to see the polar bear. Arctic foxes, reindeer, walrus, musk ox, seals and whales are also found in the north, as well as birdlife.

I visited the Arctic on a journey to East Greenland on the world’s only luxury ice breaker, Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot, at the beginning of the season. We came across a whale carcass wedged between two ice sheets, a natural buffet attracting an astounding 68 polar bears, a first even for our captain and our Inuit ‘polar bear spotters’.

PEOPLE

The six countries of the Arctic region create diversity in culture, language and customs, though sharing traditional livelihoods like f ishing and hunting. As our Greenlandic guides kept watch for polar bears, I learnt what it is like to live in in complete darkness for much of the year and how their community of Ittoqqortoormiit (the most remote in the world) is only accessible by helicopter for nine months due to frozen sea ice.

On the Le Soleal in Antarctica I enjoyed chats with people posted at the bases and stations over the summer season, but there are no ‘locals’ in Antarctica. On both voyages historians within the ship’s expedition teams shared stories and insights into the early explorers, from Erik the Red in Greenland to Scott, Shackleton and other Antarctic explorers.

ICE

Ice became a topic of surprise and delight as I learnt how different it is in each region and how many forms it takes — fast ice, first-year ice, brash ice, pack ice and, of course, ice bergs (to name a few!). Sea ice in the Arctic freezes in winter and melts during summer. Antarctica is not constrained by landmasses so sea ice spreads over a much larger area. Antarctic glaciers are much bigger than those of the Arctic, the Arctic icebergs more jagged in shape.

SEASONS

You can only travel to Antarctica in summer (November – March), with the ice more pristine and the penguins courting early in the season. In February and March you see penguin chicks and March is best for whale watching. The Arctic summer is peak tourist season with longer days (the midnight sun) and milder temperatures for outdoor activities.

Many visit in winter to see the northern lights. Which wins? I loved both for the sense of vastness and unexpected wildlife encounters, the deafening silence and magical atmosphere. Seeing 68 bears made the Arctic my favourite voyage, however Antarctica would be my favourite destination. I’d return to both in a heartbeat for I have only experienced the very tip of the iceberg.

YOUTRAVELBETHLEHEM.CO.NZ

WALK THIS WAY

Between shady forest walks, hidden waterfalls and rugged coastal headlands, the Bay of Plenty has no shortage of trails to discover.

PHOTOS TOURISM BAY OF PLENTY

When it comes to walks that showcase the stunning landscapes of our region, the Bay of Plenty is one of New Zealand’s most generous playgrounds. Here’s a hand-picked list of family-friendly walks around Tauranga and the wider Bay of Plenty to feature in your summer adventure itinerary.

Waikareao Estuary Walkway

This flat, easy loop in Tauranga is ideal for families, cyclists or anyone who’d rather amble than ascend. The total loop is about 10km, but there are many entry/ exit points so you can tailor it to 30 minutes, one hour or more. The surfaces include boardwalks, gravel and sealed paths, meandering through mangroves, marsh and birdlife-rich wetlands. Expect to spot local wading birds, and maybe even a fish or two.

Ōtanewainuku Forest and Waterfall Walks

About 25 to 30 minutes south of Tauranga (near Ōropi / Te Puke), Ōtanewainuku Forest offers multiple tracks suited to families. One popular route leads to Whataroa Falls, which includes a pool at the base. Because paths vary in length and difficulty, pick a climb that suits your group.

Ngā Tapuwae o Toi (Footprints of Toi Track)

If your family is up for a longer day out, the Ngā Tapuwae o Toi coastal-forest walk spans 16km and links Whakatāne to Ōhope. The full loop takes five to seven hours, but you can do it in sections (one to three hours) if you don’t want to commit to the full length. It passes through scenic reserves, pōhutukawa stands, seabird colonies and native forest. Dogs are not permitted as it is a kiwi zone. Try walking section by section, or just pick your favourite segment.

Orokawa Bay from Waihī Beach

For a bit more coastal adventure, the Orokawa Bay walk begins at the northern end of Waihī Beach and follows a tide-dependent coastal headland path. It’s roughly 45 minutes one way. The views are spectacular, and you can picnic in the shade of pōhutukawa trees in the bay. Just watch the tides and plan accordingly.

McLaren Falls and Waterfall Track

Just a 10- to 15-minute drive from Tauranga, McLaren Falls Park is a gem. One easy walk leads you through bush to a viewing platform over the falls, short enough for young legs but scenic enough to feel like an adventure. On summer evenings, the glow worms are said to appear along certain tracks. You can also wander around the lakeside paths (the McLaren Lakeside Walkway) for a longer but gentle stroll.

Kaiate Falls

A short drive (30 minutes) from Tauranga brings you to this forest walk through native bush, ending at a tiered waterfall. The track is about 45 minutes return and includes steps, so it’s more suited to families with confident walkers or older children. Swimming is not recommended, but the views and forest experience are worth it.

TOP TIPS

• Mix short and longer walks by combining a base-level stroll with one more adventurous hike on the same day, so everyone has something to enjoy.

• Time it with tides and weather. Coastal walks like Orokawa are best when tides permit and on calm days.

• Bring essentials such as sunblock, hats, snacks, water, insect repellent and wet-weather gear. Some tracks can be muddy after rain.

• Check track status. Some local reserves have track closures for infrastructure upgrades.

• Leave gates as found and carry out your rubbish. These tracks are well loved and cared for by local groups.

• Pace the kids. Use natural “pause points” (streams, lookouts, ponds) as moments to rest or explore.

HEART OF HASTINGS

Eat, drink, stay and play your way through a city that’s become one of Hawke's Bay’s best-kept secrets. Here, it’s all about quality. Whether you’re here for a weekend or just a wander, you’ll get a taste of the city’s new confidence everywhere you go.

PLAY

HASTINGS ART GALLERY

Te Whare Toi o Heretaunga — the Hastings Art Gallery — is one of Aotearoa New Zealand’s must-visit creative hubs. This non-collecting gallery showcases a constantly changing line-up of contemporary works from local talents and international visionaries. Visitors can dive into a rich programme of exhibitions, hands-on public events, and inspiring school activities designed to spark curiosity and foster a lifelong love of art. Housed in an eye-catching 1970s building in Hastings’ Civic Square, the gallery sits beside the historic Hastings War Memorial Library, with the striking sculptures of Ngā Pou o Heretaunga welcoming travellers at the entrance.

201 Eastbourne Street East

WAIAROHA — HERETAUNGA WATER DISCOVERY CENTRE

A surprisingly engaging stop, Waiaroha brings the story of water to life through hands-on exhibits, interactive games and clever design. Watch the treatment process through glass panels, pump and spray at outdoor stations, and follow the journey of water from mountains to sea. Designed for families, curious visitors and locals alike, this City Nation Place Global Award winner connects us all.

Corner of Southampton Street East & Hastings Street South

TOITOI ARTS AND EVENTS CENTRE

Offering more than just a stage, Toitoi is a place where creativity thrives and where stories are shared and cultures celebrated. From world-class performances, conferences and grassroots initiatives, Toitoi champions the power of the arts to inspire. Savour a relaxed meal, indulge in wine tasting, grab a morning coffee, or toast the night with a pre-show cocktail. Whether you're attending a show, hosting an event, or simply soaking in the atmosphere, the Toitoi complex invites you to be part of something extraordinary.

TOITOIVENUES.CO.NZ

EAT

FUN BUNS

A small-but-mighty gem in Hastings’ heart, Fun Buns is all about vibrancy and flavour. Think handmade gua baos bursting with fresh fillings, dumplings, satisfying loaded fries and street-food vibes done right. It’s the kind of place you pop into for lunch, stick around post-shopping for a cheeky bite or make a light dinner out of share plates and cocktails. It’s so good you’ll want it on speed dial for those “don’t-feel-like-cooking” nights.

300 Heretaunga Street East

COLAB CAFÉ

Colab Café has quickly become a local favourite for its warm service and creative weekly menu. The cabinet is always tempting. Think pistachio scrolls, coffee-and-cheddar buns, fresh salads, and inventive matchas locals rave about. Cosy and welcoming with sunny outdoor seating, it’s an easy choice for brunch or a midweek pick-me-up.

Farming House Building, 211 Market Street South

RESTAURANT ARI

Hastings’ newest go-to for contemporary dining, Restaurant Ari serves up Mediterranean-inspired fare with a clear focus on local produce. Expect free-range meats, fresh seafood and seasonal ingredients, all delivered with warmth and flair. Ideal for a special night out or gathering with friends.

103 Karamu Road South

SAZIO

If you’re after something a little more grown-up but still relaxed, Sazio is the go-to for handmade pasta and warm hospitality. The menu draws on Italian and Argentinian heritage, with fresh free-range meats and seafood crafted on-site daily. Whether it’s a special occasion or just a stylish night out, this one nails the balance. Date night sorted.

215 Heretaunga Street East

STAY

QUEST HASTINGS

Need a base in Hastings for exploring the region? Quest Hastings offers modern, thoughtfully designed rooms and suites in the heart of the city. The central location puts you within walking distance of cafés, shops, restaurants and all the spots above. Comfortable, convenient and well-set for a longer Hawke’s Bay stay.

304 Eastbourne Street East

BRAVE BREWING CO.

Hawke’s Bay craft-beer fans, look here. Brave Brewing Co. has carved out a stellar reputation in Hastings. This family-run operation pours a solid lineup of beers on tap in a chilled-out taproom, with crowd pleasing food to match. Whether you’re after something hoppy or a little experimental, this place has the energy for an easy-going catch-up.

205 Queen Street East

CELLAR 495

This boutique wine bar and eatery brings serious wine know-how to Hastings in a comfortable space. Led by Michael Henley, the 495th Master of Wine, the bistro-wine bar showcases Hawke’s Bay and international labels alongside sharing plates inspired by local produce.

319 Heretaunga Street East

HASTINGS DISTILLERS

Hastings Distillers are doing clever things in a beautifully-restored Art Deco space. As New Zealand’s f irst certified-organic artisan spirits house, they craft distinctive gins and elegant liqueurs using wild-foraged botanicals, exotic French spices and pure spring water. Their award-winning “East Block 200” gin, made with ten organic botanicals (eight from Hawke’s Bay), picked up Double Gold at the New Zealand Spirit Awards. The tasting room doubles as a casual cocktail stop and bottle-shop, all in one.

231 Heretaunga Street East

KINDRED ROAD

Kindred Road is a homewares and lifestyle boutique that brings together local craft, sustainable design and good coffee under one roof. The stylish interiors and in-house café make it an easy place to linger while browsing seriously cool finds. A beautiful stop for gifts or a little treat — the bagels are a must.

201 Queen Street East

DECIBEL WINES

Located in downtown Hastings, Decibel Wines is run by a winemaker with a rock-band-manager past — yes, really. Born from a love of music and a touch of rebellion, Decibel has carved out a name as Hawke’s Bay’s cool, counter-culture winery. The tasting room is light and unpretentious, pouring small-batch wines that are fine but fun and best shared with good food and great company.

101 Warren Street South

NAPIER UNCOVERED

Beachside strolls, great eats, creative corners and cool local finds. Napier’s got character in spades and plenty to explore. Here’s where to shop, eat, drink and wander while you’re in town.

SHOP

TENNYSON GALLERY

Tennyson Gallery is owner Lizzie’s celebration of New Zealand creativity. This bright, welcoming space is filled with art that’s as diverse as it is beautiful. Expect everything from bold paintings and fine-art prints to glasswork, sculpture and contemporary jewellery. It’s the perfect spot for anyone who loves original, homegrown talent.

Cnr Tennyson & Hastings Streets

BROCANTE

Andrea’s gorgeous store is filled with unexpected and utterly seductive treasures. It’s an eclectic blend of exclusive homewares, vintage design, jewellery, scarves, clothing and body products. If you love a little French flair, then Brocante is the place for you. And don’t miss the impressive 1930s stained-glass ceiling dome.

31 Tennyson Street

BOYD-DUNLOP GALLERY

Richard and Elise’s gallery is a cornerstone of the city’s art scene, showcasing a wide selection of contemporary and fine art prints across two stunning levels. Open daily and featuring regular exhibitions from leading New Zealand artists, it’s always worth the visit.

4 Hastings Street

VINCI'S PIZZA

Vincent has brought a vibrant street side vibe to life while renovating indoors. Enjoy hand-stretched sourdough pizza by the slice or as an 18-inch whole pie. Grab a quick bite or settle in with friends and family. With a great range of independent craft beers, wine on tap and house-batch cocktails, every day is a pizza day. Open seven days from 11 am. Dine in or take out.

29A Hastings Street

HUNGER MONGER

Fraser and Agnieszka’s menu is a true celebration of the sea. Packed with as much variety as they can find, a few favourites remain, while most dishes ebb and flow with the seasons. Sample a range of Snacks and Smalls, or choose from a select few mains. It’s a strictly seafood affair in a modern, retro restaurant by the sea, with no meat in sight.

29 Marine Parade

DAJKO’S KILIM CAFÉ

Once known as Kilim Café, this long-time favourite has grown into something new. The Balkan-style grill celebrates the flavours of Eastern Europe while holding onto its Turkish roots. Chef-owner Yusuf Dogru, who grew up in Istanbul and has called Hawke’s Bay home for years, brings his culture to life through dishes like smoky cevapi, juicy kebabs and richly layered iskenders. As one of the few BYO spots in town, it’s a great place to catch up with friends over a relaxed meal in the sunny courtyard.

193 Hastings Street

DRINK

ROGUE HOP SPEAKEASY

This is hospo legend Jeremy Bayliss’s latest addition, and it’s become an institution for locals and visitors alike. A stylish neighbourhood hangout with an upstairs lounge, this is the perfect spot for a laugh over a tipple. Exclusive New Zealand craft beer, wine and spirits, plus handmade dumplings and burgers. Available for private functions and events.

113 Hastings Street

MARKET ST

In the heart of the CBD, Market St is a modern city bar with a fun, local vibe. Owners Steve and Sarah have turned the old Cri into a buzzing little hangout where the food’s fresh, the drinks flow and nothing feels fussy. The menu changes with the seasons, and weekly specials like Burger & Brew Tuesdays and Dollar Dumpling Thursdays keep things playful. With daily Happy Hour and $12 cocktails on Saturdays, it’s the kind of place that makes any excuse a good one to drop in.

8 Market Street

GOLDIE’S

Goldie’s is the city’s newest go-to for easy, honest, seriously delicious food in a casual but vibrant setting. Owners Grant and Alice have created a little gem where you can bring the kids, meet friends or just drop in for something good to eat. The menu leans toward classic favourites infused with fresh f lavours. Add in craft beers, great coffee and plenty of buzz, and it’s easy to see why Goldie’s is quickly finding its crowd.

82 Dalton Street

PLAY/DO

BLUFF HILL WALKS

Get your step count up with the city’s scenic hill walks right from the CBD. Climb Bluff Hill Lookout for sweeping harbour views, wander the historic streets of Napier Hill past Art Deco homes or tackle the zigzag tracks linking the city to leafy reserves. Every route rewards you with breathtaking views across the coast and city.

MTG HAWKE’S BAY

In the centre of the city, MTG Hawke’s Bay combines museum, theatre and gallery spaces in a beautifully restored heritage building. Exhibitions change often, blending art, history and local stories — from the 1931 earthquake to contemporary culture. With kids’ activities, theatre events and a museum shop, there’s something here for everyone. Open daily 9.30 am–5 pm. Free entry.

1 Tennyson Street

MARINE PARADE ACTIVITIES

Along the coast, Marine Parade offers one of the loveliest ways to feel the sea breeze — wide paths for walking, gardens to pause in and palm trees that line the Parade. Home to the Pania of the Reef statue, the Sunken Gardens and Ocean Spa, it’s popular with families, cyclists and anyone keen to sit and take in the view.

BAY TO BAY

Hayley Barnett discovers the perfect itinerary for a weekend getaway in another glorious Bay, the delightfully decadent Hawke’s Bay region.

Smith & Sheth

As the end of the year began hurtling towards us at breakneck speed, my husband and I decided an indulgent weekend escape from the chaos was just what we needed. For a couple of foodies and fairly inexperienced winos, Hawke’s Bay proved the place to unwind and reconnect.

About four hours drive from the Bay of Plenty, Hawke’s Bay is made up of three main centres – Havelock North, Napier and Hastings. Though there are excellent taxi and Uber services, we opted to drive, enjoying the freedom to move at our own pace, while still using taxis and bikes between wineries.

Havelock North was our first stop, and our base for the night. This charming town has an unexpectedly abundant array of beautiful clothing boutiques, cafes and gift stores that could easily consume hours of wandering. But we weren’t here to shop. We were here for the wine, and focus was key.

Arriving at Smith & Sheth, a wine lounge (or wine library) and cellar door, we immediately realised the bar was set high. We were welcomed by Sean, head sommelier, who has worked alongside Steve Smith for the past decade. Steve has a formidable reputation, establishing Craggy Range in Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough, and achieving the highly-coveted Master of Wine in under two years, a process that usually takes much longer. When he met Brian Sheth, an investor, wildlife conservationist and wine lover from Austin, Texas, they created Cru, an exceptional range of wines that we were lucky to sample inside what could only be described as a wine cinema. Here, we learned the differences between blends and the production process. The experience is thoughtfully curated and offers an intimate and fresh way to explore wine, without leaving town.

Porters Boutique Hotel & Conference Centre

Located within the same building as Smith & Sheth’s wine lounge, Porters Boutique Hotel & Conference Centre is elegant, understated and perfectly situated for those wanting to immerse themselves in Havelock North. Every detail, from soft lighting to attentive service, made us feel cocooned from the world, even though we were just steps away from boutique cafes, artisan stores and wine bars. We could have spent hours in our spacious suite, but a date with one of the region’s premiere wine festivals awaited in neighbouring Hastings.

Taste Hastings

Just a 10-minute drive from Havelock North, Hastings recently earned a reputation for sophistication. Modern bars, cafes, restaurants and shops have transformed it into a lively hub. That evening, we made our way through stalls from winemakers across Hawke’s Bay at Taste Hastings and learned all about the region’s wine culture, chatting with stall holders and dancing to live bands and DJs on every corner. It was a great way to get a feel for the craftsmanship and amazing community vibe. From there, a taxi whisked us to one of the region’s most iconic wineries for a very different experience.

The Loft at Craggy Range

Our visit to Craggy Range did not disappoint. As the sun set, Te Mata Valley glowed with a magical, hazy light across the vines. We were there to try The Loft, a new dining experience above the main restaurant. Having made our way up the winding staircase, we were greeted by low lighting and an intimate setting. Tables were arranged in a semi-circle in front of the chefs and wood-fired oven. From the first bite to the last, the experience was flawless. Chef Casey McDonald takes diners on a culinary journey reflecting the dishes he loves to cook at home. The ‘Sprung’ spring menu celebrated seasonal ingredients with highlights including crayfish croissants and baked camembert.

The next morning, we discovered a delightful gem just minutes from the hotel. This family run cafe was filled to the brim with diners, but we managed to secure a table under a portrait of Maina, matriarch and inspiration behind the kitchen. The coffee was expertly crafted, complemented by poached eggs atop sourdough with avocado pea smash, feta, beetroot pur.e and hazelnut dukkha. Though satisfying, I wondered if it was the best prelude to a strenuous pilates reformer class.

Alma Studio

I needn’t have worried. Alma Studio offered a surprisingly transformative start to the day. While my husband opted for an extended infrared sauna session, I tackled my first pilates reformer class. Instructor and owner Danielle ensured the exercises were accessible, and each movement left me feeling lengthened and invigorated, a perfect counterbalance to our indulgent culinary adventures. Alma’s approach blends mindfulness, breath, strength and awareness, and put us in a great headspace to explore more of Hawke’s Bay.

Energised, we headed to Napier to hire e-bikes at Takaro Trails in Ahuriri. The route towards Taradale via Bayview promised stunning scenery. The path traces the harbour and wetlands, which made it feel strangely relaxing and adventurous at the same time. Informative signs along the way highlighted local wildlife, and the views were nothing short of breathtaking. When we realised we were late for lunch we simply turned it up a notch and “cycled” along the track with gusto.

Church Road Winery

Arriving at one of Hawke's Bay's most awarded wineries, Church Road, it was clear we were in for a treat. Despite setting up for a wedding, staff accommodated us with a wine tasting. Sampling four wines from the prestigious TOM range, named after Hawke’s Bay wine pioneer Tom McDonald, we were guided through the complex flavour profiles by a knowledgeable sommelier. The experience was as much a history lesson as it was a tasting.

The National Gin Distillery

Before long, it was time to jump on a Takaro Trails shuttle back to Napier, where our indulgence continued at The National Gin Distillery. Housed in a restored art deco building, the distillery is still filled with memorabilia from its days as the National Tobacco Company, providing a very fun and eclectic tour for visitors. At the bar, gin guru Ginny (yes, that’s her real name) and co-owner/distiller Blair guided us through botanicals, distillation techniques and flavour profiles. Together, the pair balance creativity with local charm.

Art Deco Masonic Hotel

After hours of trying the many flavours Blair had concocted over the years, we headed off to our next accommodation. Tonight we were staying at the Art Deco Masonic Hotel in Napier. Entering the building was like stepping into a time machine. The iconic architecture, geometric lines and period detailing immediately set a tone of sophistication. Our Anna Pavlova suite, named after the celebrated dancer who stayed here in 1926, offered a shared balcony perfect for people-watching.

Mister D

The stay was an experience in itself, but our hunger forced us back out the door. Just a short walk away, Mister D bistro turned out to the perfect choice for dinner. Combining music, wine and food, the bistro describes itself as “a little bit country and a little bit rock ‘n’ roll”, but it’s also a lot about flavour. Each plate showcased seasonal ingredients and inventive pairings, and highlights included duck risotto, baked cheesecake and the signature injectable donuts.

Baked Cafe

The next day we emerged bleary-eyed and on the hunt for something sweet to take the edge off. Baked Cafe, housed in the old Central Fire Station, offered just what we were looking for. The aroma of freshly baked bread and pastries promised simple pleasures executed perfectly. We shared a ham and mortadella pastry and a hazelnut-chocolate croissant, accompanied by impeccably balanced flat whites. We tucked in and fueled up before we took off for our next activity.

The best way to explore Napier is by vintage car, so we headed across the road to the Art Deco Centre. Our driver, in period attire, transported us through the 1930s, narrating the story of the devastating earthquake and the town’s rapid reconstruction.

As we cruised past pastel facades, waving to curious passers-by, Napier's glamour was well and truly on show and we were wholly swept up in its charm.

We were then dropped at Roam Cafe, which is tucked inside one of the Six Sisters buildings and offers a relaxed lunch with views of the water. The Nashville Hot Chicken burger was a hangover-curing triumph and was balanced with a healthy vegan bowl — equally delicious.

Ocean Spa

Our journey concluded at Ocean Spa, perched on the waterfront. With three large pools and two spas overlooking the ocean, we spent the afternoon alternating cool dips with hot soaks, leaving us refreshed and renewed — a perfect bookend to our Hawke’s Bay adventure.

Seoul searching: A world within

South Korea may not be on every traveller’s radar in Asia but as Jamie Troughton found, beneath the skyscrapers and beyond the gates lies a capital that keeps revealing more, one encounter at a time.

WORDS JAMIE TROUGHTON

It was only on the fourth day in Seoul, when we climbed 270m to the peak of Namsan Park, that we fully understood how insignificant our explorations had been.

Gazing through the haze on another warm autumn morning was a chance to retrace our steps. And there had been plenty of them; 28,000 Garmin-tracked perambulations through the intoxicating South Korean capital on the second day alone.

But our exertions, from what we could see from the summit, appeared pitiful. The ethereal Gyeongbokgung Palace, a 7,700-room 14th-century estate, appeared tiny amidst the office buildings and parks. The 18km Seoul City Wall, encompassing the old city centre and featuring four colossal main gates, seemed to weave a small and delicate thread over the hilly metropolitan terrain.

From our vantage point, everywhere we looked was teeming with city; 360 degrees of skyscrapered, multilayered population. The bit we̓d ‘conquered̓ occupied a couple of degrees of view. We’d daintily dipped a toe into the teeming city waters of Seoul. But what a dip it was.

Tastes, sights, smells, feels, textures and sensations - much about Seoul is like an ADHD delight; it's a symphony of over-stimulation.

We based ourselves in the Jung District, the smallest (less than 10km2) and least populous of Seoul’s 25 districts, but still with the population of Tauranga. Our first meal set the tone — we crossed the road from our hotel, straight into the sprawling Namdaemun Market, which has been operating continuously since 1414, and promptly got lost.

Twisting and turning from street into laneway, from laneway into alleyway, then from alleyway into impossibly crowded, narrow corridors of colour and aroma; restaurant, kitchen and path all blended into one.

We ate a medley of fried fish with gusto, crunching small bones and experiencing for the first time the culinary magnificence of banchan — small side dishes served with most Korean cuisine. From ever-present kimchi (fermented and spiced cabbage), namul (vegetables seasoned with sesame oil, garlic and chilli), danmuji (pickled radish) and gyeran-mari (rolled omelette served in slices), every mouthful was both wildly exotic and perfectly matched.

We dined on delicious Korean BBQ, and on Chimaek, probably one of Korea’s most famous culinary exports of recent years, combining fried chicken (chikin) and beer (maekju). It may have been all the walking but both went down unerringly easily.

The layers of food matched the city too. October was still hot and humid but within six weeks of our visit, temperatures had plummeted from 50°C to –19°C.

Such a wide array of temperatures needs a clever cityscape, and so much of our meanderings were done in three dimensions — vast underground shopping plazas spreading beneath, then spiralling up into the low clouds.

And amidst the concrete and steel are remarkable areas of tranquillity. A large untamed field of wildflowers, sandwiched between two busy avenues, provided an unexpected highlight when apparent masses of bumblebees turned out instead to be hummingbird hawk-moths.

Walking sections of the Seoul City Wall also dipped in and out of serene, stylish neighbourhoods, through parks and erupted into glorious city vistas.

The layered approach is evident in the culture too. Korea, both North and South, is a peninsula seemingly forever being conquered and collected by two neighbouring imperialists, China and Japan.

And while those two nations infuse much of Korean culture, the endemic traditions are rich and vibrant in their own right. Having fought hard, firstly for independence, then for democracy, South Koreans gather, celebrate and protest frequently and spontaneously.

Old news-gathering instincts kicked in hard on a Saturday morning in Seoul, when we rounded a corner to find masses of marchers shouting, trumpeting and waving banners.

Thousands upon thousands of police disembarked from buses, bedecked in riot gear, while spotters lined windows in high buildings as things seemingly built to a crescendo.

A helpful guide at a neighbourhood information kiosk chuckled at our concerns. “It happens every Saturday,” she explained. “Most weekends, the police outnumber the protestors.”

Ironically, mere weeks after our visit, President Yoon Suk Yeol was suspended after trying to impose martial law. Those same protestors were out again in force, this time in earnest, demanding they retain their right to protest and have a voice in their nation.

Meanwhile, we turned another corner during our trip, walked a block and stumbled into the midst of a Joseon dynasty celebration, where a dazzling wedge of performers twirled in traditional costumes, surreptitiously checking coiffures on latest Samsungs.

People who dress in period costume are afforded free entry into the numerous palaces and cultural sites throughout Seoul — it’s a clever way to both promote and immerse tourists and locals alike in tradition.

Those layers continue in architecture and ambience. Sejong-daero, the street that runs through part of downtown Seoul, has Gyeongbokgung Palace at one end and walls of new shimmering office steel at the other. A statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, who saved the country from the brink of collapse during the Japanese invasion of 1592, stands proudly on a plinth, astride both the ancient and the modern worlds.

In the famous Seoul street markets, meanwhile, this translates into a fusion of flavours.

Hangover soup, roast lobster with cheese, an array of spectacular custard-based pastries and deboned chicken claws fit seamlessly next to Zespri kiwifruit and dragon fruit smoothies.

We wandered, for hours, every side street an adventure, every staircase a portal.

Step counts bloomed, as the layers upon layers of a remarkable city unfurled before our dazed eyes.

As nature intended

Escape the city buzz and immerse yourself in wild beauty at Wellington’s lush, predator-free haven.

WORDS LIZ FRENCH | PHOTOS LUCY BROAD, SCOTT LANGDALE + SUPPLIED

Wellington is a thriving metropolis, seat of government and a vibrant capital of corporations, culture and coffee. In complete contrast it also boasts the world’s first fully fenced urban ecosanctuary.

You would not expect to find 225 hectares (more than 500 acres) of regenerating forest and rare birdlife within a few minutes’ drive of Wellington’s CBD. This is Zealandia Te Māra a Tāne (The Garden of Tāne Māhuta, the Māori god of the forest).

The idea of protecting Wellington’s biodiversity began in the 1990s with a plan to manage the preservation of the national assets of the city. Its theme, “Bring the Birds Back to Wellington”, was the inspiration for Zealandia, a sanctuary that is doing exactly that.

The decommissioning of the Karori reservoir allowed this ambitious project to begin in the valley it occupied. The reservoir, with its historic dam crossing, is now an attractive feature of Zealandia. Bringing back the birds and other New Zealand native and endemic species required eradicating and preventing entry by the human introduced mammalian predators that have decimated our native flora and fauna over hundreds of years. To restore a valley to its pre-human state does not happen overnight, hence Zealandia’s far sighted vision. The defining feature was the construction, in 1999, of an 8.6 kilometre-long predator exclusion fence completely surrounding the sanctuary.

Thanks to the fence, and to community conservation efforts like Predator Free Wellington, the 500-year project has progressed dramatically in just 25 years.

Wellington is one of the only cities in the world where bird biodiversity is increasing. Tūī and kererū, once rare, are now an everyday sight around the region. Kākā and kārearea (NZ falcon) are now commonly seen in the city and nearby suburbs.

Zealandia’s vision would not be possible without support, funding and sponsorship. Visiting also contributes to the ongoing conservation work.

So, if you are in Wellington, take a break for a walk in the bush where you will hear only birdsong and where you can witness rare native birds like the hihi (stitchbird), tīeke (saddleback), kākāriki (NZ parakeet) and takahē and see prehistoric tuatara sunbathing. If you take a guided night tour, you may spot the kiwi pukupuku (little spotted kiwi), some 200 of which now call Zealandia home.

Free shuttles to Zealandia leave from Wellington’s isite and the top of the cable car.

VISITZEALANDIA.COM