THE BAY LESS TRAVELLED
Wild soaks, secret glowworms, hidden canyons and treetop trails – the Bay of Plenty’s best-kept adventures are hiding in plain sight, just waiting to be explored.
Wild soaks, secret glowworms, hidden canyons and treetop trails – the Bay of Plenty’s best-kept adventures are hiding in plain sight, just waiting to be explored.
We all know there are plenty of beaches and cafés to enjoy around here, but beyond the obvious lies a host of other ways to play, like:
Bay of Plenty Horse Adventures.
Swap hiking boots for the saddle to discover the coastline at a slower pace. Bay of Plenty Horse Adventures guides beach rides along the wide sands of Pukehina, where horses splash through the surf and wander beneath towering pōhutukawa. Suitable for beginners through to experienced riders, it’s a memorable way to experience one of our quieter beaches and really connect with nature. BAYOFPLENTYHORSEADVENTURES.CO.NZ
Mauao Adventures
You get an entirely different perspective of Mount Maunganui when you see it from the water. Mauao Adventures leads waka ama (outrigger canoe) and stand-up paddleboard tours that let you fully appreciate the volcanic coastline, while keeping an eye out for seabirds and marine life. MAUAOADVENTURES.CO.NZ
McLaren Falls Park
You don’t need to venture into a cave to experience one of nature’s most enchanting light shows. As darkness falls over McLaren Falls Park, hundreds of glowworms illuminate the banks beside the Waterfall Track, creating a magical display just a short stroll from the carpark. Best of all, it’s completely free. Arrive before sunset to enjoy the waterfalls and lakeside scenery, then hang around until dusk, when the tiny blue lights begin to appear, transforming the bush into an after-hours adventure. TAURANGA.GOVT.NZ
Poripori waterhole
When the beaches are packed, head inland to Poripori for freshwater relief instead. In the bush beside the Wairoa River, this much-loved swimming hole offers clear pools and sun-warmed rocks. Confident swimmers can leap from the ledges, while quieter pools provide space to simply float and relax. Just be sure to check scheduled dam release times before visiting, as the river level can rise quickly.
Tropical display house
In Robbins Park in Tauranga’s city centre is an overlooked little gem – a warm, leafy escape that feels a world away from the busy roads outside. The tropical display house is filled with lush palms, vibrant flowering plants and exotic species that thrive beneath its glass roof, creating a peaceful oasis in every season. TAURANGA.GOVT.NZ
Riverbug
Forget rafting – Riverbug is a fresh way to explore our waterways. Sitting in small inflatable river craft, you’ll float through secluded gorges and lush native bush while guides share stories of local history and ecology. Tours range from scenic drifts to whitewater runs.
The Stix Ultimate Tree Climb
High above the forest floor, The Stix offers a completely different way to experience the Bay’s bush. Suspended bridges, rope crossings and tree platforms wind through the canopy on an active escape that combines adrenaline and spectacular treetop views. With courses suited to everyone, it’s just as rewarding for families as it is for thrill-seekers looking to try something new.
Cave Bay
Tucked beneath the rugged cliffs of Bowentown Heads, Cave Bay is one of the Bay’s most rewarding hidden coastal spots. A short but steep walk from the headland carpark leads to a sheltered cove, where you can explore rhyolite rock formations, sea caves and crystal-clear water. Pair your visit with the summit walk to the historic Māori pā site for panoramic views over Tauranga Harbour and the Pacific Ocean, then descend to the bay for a swim or picnic away from the crowds.
Tuahu Kauri Track
Some of the Bay of Plenty’s oldest residents stand silently in the heart of the Kaimai Mamaku Forest Park. The Tuahu Kauri Track leads walkers to an impressive ancient kauri that has survived for centuries, where you’ll get a chance to stand beneath one of the region’s largest remaining giants. The return walk is relatively easy, following a historic route through beautiful bush.
REEL TALK
Whakatāne is one of the best fishing spots in the country, with game fish, snapper on tap and backcountry trout – and nobody’s making a big deal of it.
Whakatāne is one of the best fishing spots in the country, with game fish, snapper on tap and backcountry trout – and nobody’s making a big deal of it.
You may or may not know that Whakatāne is stupidly good for fishing. Everyone who lives there already knows it, so nobody bothers hyping it up. The reason it works so well comes down to one boring but very useful fact, which is the bar. In the area where the Whakatāne River meets the sea it’s usually a safe crossing, and with the Coastguard tower right there overlooking the bar to monitor conditions, you’re in safe hands. You’re just out there, 20 minutes later, already fishing.
And there’s a lot on offer. Summer through to autumn, it’s yellowfin, skipjack and albacore tuna, plus marlin if you’re lucky. Winter switches things over to southern bluefin for the committed types who don’t mind the cold. Meanwhile, snapper, tarakihi and kingfish don’t care what month it is. They’re there year-round for anyone who can’t be bothered planning around a season.
You also don’t need a boat, a charter or any real plan. Port Ōhope wharf on a weekend is full of eight-year-olds with handlines standing next to blokes with rods worth more than their car, both catching roughly the same fish.
If you do have your own boat, ramps at Thornton Beach, the Whakatāne CBD and Port Ōhope mean you can just launch it with no charter.
The social hub of all this is the Whakatāne Sports Fishing Club, with its restaurant, bar, and tournaments running most of the year. Guppies on the Wharf, their kids’ fishing programme, has picked up national awards for turning small children into future obsessives.
Nobody really talks about the trophy-wall stuff, either. Ask around and you’ll get more stories about the one that got away than the ones that didn’t. Whakatāne is a town of fishermen who’d rather tell you about a bad day than brag about a good one, which somehow makes the good days sound better.
Then there’s the completely different fishing scene happening 20 minutes inland, which almost nobody outside the region seems to know about. The Rangitāiki River, Lakes Matahina and Āniwaniwa, and the wilder stretches through Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne and Te Urewera are stacked with brown and rainbow trout. There are camping, walking and biking tracks all through the same forest, so it’s easy to turn a fishing trip into a weekend away without really trying.
Whether you’re a kid on a wharf with a handline, or planning a week-long mission out to Ranfurly Bank or a full-on tournament weekend at the club, Whakatāne is the ideal spot for fishing. Show up with a rod and figure out which version you’re in the mood for.
THE CHARTERS
EZYFISHING CHARTERS
One skipper, small groups and no pressure. Ezyfishing does saltwater snapper and kingfish runs, and switches to freshwater lakes and rivers when the sea's not playing ball. The gear’s included and beginners are welcome.
WHAKATANE.COM/SEE-AND-DO/EZYFISHING-CHARTERS
ŌHIWA FISHING CHARTERS
Ōhiwa runs the Cougar out of Ōhope Wharf daily, heading toward the Ōpōtiki mussel farms. Book a solo spot on a group trip or book the whole boat. Zero gear is required.
WHAKATANE.COM/SEE-AND-DO/OHIWA-FISHING-CHARTERS
CASCADE CHARTERS
This is the go-big option, offering multi-day trips out to Ranfurly Bank chasing kingfish, hāpuka, bass, bluenose and trumpeter. They do cooked breakfasts and proper dinners on board.
PACIFIC COAST ADVENTURES
Book half- and full-day inshore trips on Te Kaha Katt 2, plus land-based options like rock fishing and shellfish gathering. Good for elderly guests and anyone with mobility needs.
WHAKATANE.COM/SEE-AND-DO/PACIFIC-COAST-ADVENTURES-FISHING-CHARTERS
CLUB TALK CHARTERS
This is a fast 8.5m boat that caters for up to four anglers, running out to White Island, Waihau Bay and Ranfurly Bank. It does pretty much every technique going, including jigging, stickbaiting, fly, salt and fresh, with electric reels for anyone whose arms give up first.
WHAKATANE.COM/SEE-AND-DO/CLUB-TALK-CHARTERS
THE GAMBLER FISHING CHARTERS
Run by Mike Boswell, who has 20-plus years experience, you’re in good company. Proper game-fishing setup chasing White Island kingfish, bluenose, hāpuka and bass. Small groups, book ahead.
WHAKATANE.COM/SEE-AND-DO/GAMBLER-FISHING-CHARTERS
AQUARIUS CHARTERS NZ
If you’re after a big boat, this one is 12m and fits up to 12 people, providing lounge and dining space, plus a top deck. Aquarius does private and public charters, competitions, junior days, even spearfishing. It’s a good pick if you’re bringing a crowd.
STRIKE GOLD
When you think ‘Gold Coast’, you probably think ‘sun, sand, surf and theme parks’ – and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that.
When you think ‘Gold Coast’, you probably think ‘sun, sand, surf and theme parks’ – and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that.
WORDS NICKY ADAMS
Like any popular destination, the Gold Coast has an entire spectrum of appeal that extends well beyond the obvious attractions that spring to mind. Does this mean that the things that we’re so familiar with – miles of sandy beaches, theme parks and bush walks – have become ho-hum? Absolutely, resoundingly not! This is a location that is easy, accessible and fun for any age and stage.
The weather gods were undoubtedly on our side on our recent family holiday. Ten glorious days of sunshine beat down, complete with cool mornings and cloudless skies. Flying into Gold Coast Airport, we made a beeline for our accommodation at Burleigh on the Beach Apartments.
Along with the adults, we had a range of young people to please (12, 16, 19), and Burleigh Heads ticks a lot of boxes. The beachfront location was worth the investment; the beach is stunning and patrolled by lifeguards, and overlooking the action is the surf club, which buzzes all day long and serves great ‘pub grub’-style meals. The Burleigh Pavilion screams ‘too cool for school’ and is apparently a hunting ground for candidates for the Aussie version of Married at First Sight. By day, it’s a great place to grab a beer and people-watch; at night, entrance prices rise, as DJs hit the decks and the young and beautiful come out to play. The town is filled with boutique everything – fashion, bakeries, butcheries. Our self-catering apartment was a dream, and we found everything else within walking distance.
Sunset on the waterways at Sanctuary Cove.
Resisting the urge to just sit around and wile away the days, activity-wise, we attempted to cover off something for everyone. The grunty electric bikes that peppered every corner made for a fun pedal up to the headland for my husband and children, to enjoy scenery that serves as a reminder of just how beautiful this stretch of Queensland coastline is. I’m not known for my biking prowess – electric or not – so I made it a daily treat to walk along the beach in one direction or another, over to the lookout spots and through the bush.
Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary.
A family of animal lovers, we’d planned to swim with turtles at nearby Tweed Heads. Unfortunately, on the day of our trip, a huge swell meant it was cancelled at the last minute. Our Uber driver was already downstairs revving up, so we pivoted and headed to the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary instead.
What can I say, except that a great wildlife park is the ultimate family trip whether you’re 10 or 100. Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary is one of those places at which you could never get bored – think cute koalas so still in their trees that you’re convinced they’re stuffed; huge lizards sitting on rocks, watching with beady eyes as you pass by. Although rules around manhandling animals have been massively tightened up, you can still get up close and personal with some species. Our gang was thrilled by the snake experience, and there aren’t many places where you can stroke a dozy baby ’roo as tame as a cat.
Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary.
Naturally, we weren’t going to visit Burleigh without scratching the shopping itch; the Pacific Fair mall is a 10-minute drive away. On the Gold Coast, public transport has been capped at 50c for any distance, so bussing was the obvious choice for the kids, who happily navigated the journey. The only thing I would say is that although the buses are great, the ongoing roadworks required to install a rail system are causing a bit of congestion.
Our trip was two-phase, with the second part covering off the theme parks. Excitement was at fever pitch by the time we headed up to Sanctuary Cove, a gated area built around a marina, located around 15 minutes from the parks. Surrounded by waterways, it gives you a totally different perspective on the area, and the whole vibe is low-key and relaxing.
Nicky and husband Scott on Main Street, Movie World.
A sweeping entranceway announces your arrival, and there’s a feeling of zen as you cross the threshold. A world-class golf course stretches as far as the eye can see in one direction; to the other is the luxury of an InterContinental resort. A stone’s throw from the hotel is a boutique shopping complex with everything you need – a supermarket, a pharmacy, an ice-creamery (very important), retail, restaurants and bars. The private residential area is made up of both permanent and holiday homes; here, locals zip around on golf carts. Both the hotel and houses or apartments are available to rent.
Superman Escape ride, Movie World.
I haven’t been to the Gold Coast theme parks for years, and confess it’s something I approach with some trepidation; it’s an understatement to say that being thrown upside down at speed is not my thing. There are multiple options, so it’s worth doing your research beforehand. We plumped to kick off with Warner Bros Movie World, where adrenaline-pumping rides abound. Highlights for us were the Superman Escape roller-coaster, which sends you from zero to 100km/hr in seconds, and the Joker ride, which lifts you what feels like miles high, before plunging in a vertical drop, then into a corkscrew loop. I’m assured both were mind-blowingly fun.
Wizard of Oz Land, Movie World.
Warner Bros characters dot the streets, music cranks and there’s action at every turn. If you visit in the school holidays, progress is slow; fast passes can be purchased once you’re there, but are an expensive addition. If you wait until after 1pm, you can buy single passes to specific rides, and another strategy we employed was to take advantage of our multi-day pass and go back an hour before closing, when many people were leaving. This ‘golden hour’ saw the kids able to run from ride to ride, cramming in multiple turns with hardly any wait time.
Scheduling in a day to recover in between, next on our hit list was Dreamworld. This time, I summoned my inner strength and went on an airplane ride that was basically an airborne carousel. Together with a scenic train ride around the park and the Sky Voyager flying theatre simulator ride, that was me done.
Surf’s up!
The adrenaline junkies on the other hand, were exhilarated by the Steel Taipan, a crazy, high-speed, trick-filled roller-coaster, and the Jungle Rush; this was apparently low level, but upside down and backwards were warning signs to me. There’s more than enough at Dreamworld to keep everyone going – we loved the wildlife area and wished we’d found it earlier in the day, as time runs out quickly.
After that, we had one day left to choose between Sea World (which is further up the coast) and Wet’n’wild. Since the weather was still glorious, we opted for the water park – which, if I’m honest, may not have been the best choice. It was fun and definitely a day well spent, but the wait times for the rides took the shine off a bit.
I’m not ready to join the exodus of Kiwis moving to the GC, but its appeal as a holiday destination is huge. When you leave a place, get home and straight away start googling the flight deals to return, you know you’ve hit a winner.
LET’S GET PHYSICAL
If your idea of a holiday involves some real get up and go, there’s a world of active adventures waiting to be explored. YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem explores everything from cycling and hiking to mountain biking and expedition travel.
If your idea of a holiday involves some real get up and go, there’s a world of active adventures waiting to be explored. YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem explores everything from cycling and hiking to mountain biking and expedition travel.
WORDS LIZ FRENCH
Bike and cruise, Croatia.
Active travel isn’t a new concept but it does seem to be experiencing a major modern surge of late. Although walking, hiking and cycling holidays have existed for generations, post-pandemic lifestyle priorities and a demand for experiential travel have catapulted physical activity into a primary holiday choice, where travellers prefer active engagement over passive relaxation.
For families, couples and solo travellers alike, the options are wide-ranging, from cycling and hiking holidays to more adventurous expeditions.
Hvar, Croatia.
MEET YOUR MATCH
Cycling gently through scenery, mountain biking gnarly trails, rambling amid glorious views, hiking remote regions... Once you’ve decided on your style of holiday, there’s a destination and a tour (self-guided or with a group) to match.
One of the most important considerations is choosing a reputable tour company and making sure the experience matches your expectations. Active travel can be wonderfully liberating, but a little advance research can make all the difference.
Managing director of You Travel & Cruise Bethlehem Catherine Membery’s recent family cycling holiday in the Lauterbrunnen/Jungfrau and Verbier areas of Switzerland is the perfect example of this. Mountain trails, farmland and Swiss villages provided glorious alpine scenery, and cable cars and trains added another dimension to exploring the region. “Knowing the practical details in advance is useful,” advises Catherine. “We learned e-bikes can’t be hired to under-16s, while self-catering accommodation helped avoid the expense of eating out in Switzerland.”
Verbier, Switzerland.
That holiday also spanned a visit to the UK, where the family discovered exhilarating mountain bike trails in Wales.
The advent of e-bikes has made cycling holidays available to a much wider range of travellers. The array of adventures on offer for young and old can be overwhelming, though, so it pays to match the experience to your ability and interests.
“It’s great to extend your comfort zone, but not to be uncomfortably outside it,” says Catherine. “Preferred destinations, activities and ability levels can all help narrow down the choices, whether the aim is a gentle ride through countryside or a more demanding mountain adventure.”
Europe remains popular with active travellers, with the attraction of countries like Slovenia and Scandinavia increasing. Equally, there are amazing experiences to be had in Asia, from trekking in Nepal to golfing in Vietnam, as well as in Canada and South America, with skiing in British Columbia and hiking in Peru among the possibilities.
Denali Park, Alaska.
BEST OF BOTH WORLDS
Of course, some quality R&R can go hand in hand with all that. In cruising and cycling Croatia, you enjoy life on board with wonderful coastal scenery, combined with stopovers to cycle inland. Not to mention the cool swims when you arrive back sweltering.
Taking a barge through the French or Netherlands canals with bikes on board is another brilliant combination. This style of holiday could appeal to couples, families or friend groups in which some are more sporty than others. Likewise, motorhome holidays, which are now available all over the globe.
Small-ship cruising is another active way to see the world – kayak among icebergs in the Arctic or Antarctica, or snorkel among turtles in Galapagos. Expeditions of all kinds are available to provide life-changing experiences in some of the world’s wildest places.
Seward, Alaska.
IN THE KNOW
Walking in Puglia is delightful in cool weather but decidedly not under the searing sun, yet although sweltering in Europe in mid-summer is a recurring theme these days, don’t let that put you off. Instead, consider the best seasons for maximising your active adventure, wherever you’re pointing your compass.
If ending each day fatigued yet fizzing is your idea of a perfect adventure, there’s a world of possibilities waiting to be explored.
HOLE NEW WORLD
Pip Crombie discovers a unique golfing destination with a dash of culture on the side.
Pip Crombie discovers a unique golfing destination with a dash of culture on the side.
Bà Nà Hills Golf Club’s signature par 3, 16th hole.
St Andrews may be the centuries-old home of modern golf, but the game – protocols intact – has not only survived, but thrived globally, becoming a powerful drawcard for international travellers. Serious golfers and social hackers alike find an exquisite anticipation in packing clubs into a bag sturdy enough for the cargo hold, plotting which courses to conquer and how best to enjoy après-golf. A half day on the greens, balanced with time spent exploring local culture and cuisine makes for the perfect mix – even when non-golfers are along for the ride.
You might be surprised by which countries deliver exceptional golf experiences. Having played in several overseas locations, a standout for me is the Central Coast region of Vietnam.
The major hub of Da Nang is an easy gateway (with Air New Zealand codesharing with Singapore Airlines), and offers access to more than a dozen courses. Expect diverse terrain, from mountain-top championship layouts to links-style seaside experiences, with scenic backdrops featuring lush vegetation and striking elevation changes, or dramatic ocean views and coastal winds.
Fair warning: it can all be wonderfully distracting – and a convenient excuse for the state of your game. Although some courses are attached to larger resorts, basing yourself in Da Nang or the historic town of Hoi An offers a more authentic Vietnamese experience. Most courses are within about an hour’s drive and feature excellent warm-up areas, well-stocked pro shops, quality amenities and solid dining options.
In Bà Nà Hills’ circular clubhouse restaurant, excellent local and international cuisine is served with panoramic views of the course.
Fairways and greens are immaculately maintained, with well-spaced tee times and good on-course facilities.
If time allows, aim for a varied line-up of courses. For me, two rise to the top. The mountain championship layout at Bà Nà Hills Golf Club sits at the foothills of the famed Bà Nà Hills, just 25 minutes from the city. Set among some of the region’s most impressive ranges, this lush, green course was designed by Luke Donald and feels distinctly Vietnam.
If you’re tempted to squeeze in two rounds in a day, a state- of-the-art floodlighting system illuminates all 18 holes after dark.
My second pick is Hoiana Shores Golf Club, a traditional links course by Robert Trent Jones Jr, who’s known for integrating layouts seamlessly into natural landscapes. Here, you’ll contend with firm, sandy turf on a scenic coastal routing, seasonal (but warm) winds, and classic links bunkering – a mix of wasteland and pot bunkers that demand strategy as much as skill.
Closer to Da Nang, our group also enjoyed the Legend Danang Golf Resort (formerly BRG Danang Golf Club), a 36-hole complex featuring two distinct championship courses. The links-style layout by Greg Norman delivers sweeping coastal views, while the parkland course by Jack Nicklaus offers wide fairways, river vistas and strategic bunkering. Golfers of all levels can take on these courses, choosing tees that suit their game and appetite for challenge.
At the Legend Danang Golf Resort, the caddies are clad in sporty blue.
Caddies are compulsory in Vietnam, with one assigned per player. Typically local Vietnamese women, they perch on the back of the golf buggy as you move between shots. Most are highly intuitive, quickly assessing your ability and reading greens with impressive accuracy – the rest, of course, is up to you. Expect to pay around NZ$40 per round, although a good day on the course may loosen the purse strings.
Golf in Vietnam isn’t exactly cheap. As part of a casino complex, Hoiana Shores sits at the top end of Central Coast pricing, at around NZ$500 per round. However, accommodation, dining, shopping and transport are all relatively affordable, which helps to balance your overall spend. If you’re flying domestically, local airlines will often carry a second (golf) bag free of charge. What’s not to love? Time to swing into action.
Best time to go: March–April (warm but not overly hot or wet). August can be extremely hot, while October November often brings heavy rain and flooding.
How to book: Booking direct via golf club websites is possible, although you may be asked to provide copies of credit cards and passports. Language barriers can occasionally complicate things, but many clubs communicate via WhatsApp. Golf booking agents can simplify the process by arranging tee times and transport, though they often quote in US dollars, take a margin on exchange rates and require upfront payment. Always check cancellation policies carefully.
Where to stay: Da Nang offers a wide range of accommodation, from beachside resorts to quaint, authentic boutique hotels.
Other tips: Bring US dollars for tipping, use a Wise card or similar for payments, and download Bing, widely used in Asia for ride-hailing services.
RIVER TO RIDGE
A new Canterbury high-country walk with big views, great food and luxurious stays provides just the right amount of challenge for UNO editor Hayley Barnett.
A new Canterbury high-country walk with big views, great food and luxurious stays provides just the right amount of challenge for UNO editor Hayley Barnett.
Multi-day walks have become somewhat of a thing for 30- and 40-somethings lately. You can barely take a whiff of wine without being hassled to join some hodgepodge friend group’s lofty goal of hiking 100km in four days. It’s the new multi-day winery tour, only much better for your waistline.
When the opportunity arose to walk a brand new 31km hike just outside of Christchurch, I jumped at it, eager to regale friends with my ambitious yet achievable adventure – one that surely no one had even heard of, let alone completed. But it seems the two families who set up and manage the two-day walk are particularly good at marketing, since the first person I told has already booked in a group for later in the year.
RockRidge is an all-inclusive walk located in the Windwhistle area of Canterbury, about 45 minutes’ drive from Christchurch, and takes in a multitude of terrain, including mountain peaks, farmland, valleys, rocks and riverbeds.
Rumbling up the driveway, our view of the Birchview Homestead is the first sign my husband, Karl, and I are in for something special.
Birchview Homestead.
Henry McElrea greets us at the door and gives us a brief introduction to the huge, stone building with five bathrooms and five bedrooms that sleep up to 10 people.
Originally built in 1928 and extended in the 1980s, the homestead sits among established gardens, native bush and a meandering stream. It’s part of Birchview Farm, a property with farming roots stretching back to 1913. Today, it remains closely tied to the McElrea family, who are among the driving forces behind RockRidge.
Henry, raised at Birchview, and his wife Megan have helped change the property into a place that somehow feels traditional and modern all at once. It’s a classic rural home, with formal dining spaces, log fires and upstairs rooms looking out over the surrounding high-country landscape. It’s also an elegant and welcoming beginning to our journey.
As Henry heads off, he leaves instructions for dinner, which awaits us in the fridge – 55-day-aged Angus beef with roasted vegetables and salad, matched with a beautiful local red wine. Dessert is a chocolate torte with berry coulis. All the food is prepared by Fable Terrace Downs, a golf resort down the road, renowned for its cuisine. From the first night, it’s clear this trip will be worth it for the food alone.
The next morning, after breakfast and a leisurely start, the walk begins in earnest. Day one runs from Birchview Homestead to Quartz Hill Quarters: 13 km, six to seven hours with breaks, and roughly 1000m of climbing. It sounds intimidating, but in reality the route unfolds in chapters and includes waterfalls, spring fed creeks and ancient cave systems said to date back some 80 million years.
The ascent to Snowy Peak and High Peak Summit is the headline act. We have morning tea at altitude, which feels deserved. Canterbury spreads below plains, braided rivers, lakes and distant ranges surrounding us on every side.
Later comes the 300m climb to Cooks Cliff, with a shortcut available. We ignore that and go the long way, before descending toward Copper Creek Watering Hole, where a dip in a man-made watering hole awaits. Here, we’re collected by a four-wheel buggy, and driven 5km down to Quartz Hill Quarters.
By the time we arrive, our legs are humming, our cheeks are wind-burnished and, thankfully, the second night’s accommodation feels glorious. We head directly for the hot tub and sauna, which are situated right on the edge of where the sheep are grazing. It’s a surreal experience to be surrounded by your upcoming dinner, but, if you’re not vegetarian, it also makes you appreciate the farm-to-plate ethos on a whole other level.
Food, as I mentioned, is central to the entire concept. Georgie and Dan Harper are the owners of Quartz Hill Station, a third-generation farm with deer, Angus cattle and sheep, and all of the food is built around locally sourced produce.
Slow-cooked Lumina lamb is the star of the show, and the berry crumble and ice cream pushes me pleasantly over the edge.
Day two offers another welcome fork in the trail: a shorter 10km half-day option, or a fuller 18km route for those still feeling ambitious. If you choose the longer walk, you’re rewarded with some of the most memorable geology of the trip – formations named The Brothers, The Mole, Periscope Rock and Hanging Falls – before descending through native bush of kōwhai, black beech and honeydew.
Unfortunately for us, fog has descended on the entire Windwhistle area, and so we choose the shortcut, which slices off a good chunk of the overall distance.
Eventually, the track joins the original Washpen Falls adventure walk, where there’s a waterfall to linger beside, and where heritage hydroelectric features add to all the grandeur.
The finale feels strangely civilised: afternoon tea back at Birchview Homestead, with the option of a hot shower before departure. We wash off the day’s mud, take advantage of the giant jar of what might be the best biscotti I’ve ever tasted, and sit in front of the fire as we await our shuttle back to Christchurch.
RockRidge’s genius seems to lie in understanding that many travellers want wilderness without the hardship. The McElreas and Harpers haven’t diluted the high-country experience, but they have framed it beautifully. You still earn the views and feel the miles, but the best part, for me at least – besides the stunning views and lush accommodation – is that someone has already thought about dinner.
INTO THE WILD
From Big Five encounters to Cape Winelands and Cape Town’s coast, YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem explores South Africa’s extraordinary richness firsthand.
From Big Five encounters to Cape Winelands and Cape Town’s coast, YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem explores South Africa’s extraordinary richness firsthand.
WORDS LIZ FRENCH
Most travellers to South Africa have wildlife top of mind, then discover so much more in a country of remarkable depth and diversity.
YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem’s Brenda Stephen and Lydia Haydon each visited this big, beautiful country recently. Both returned raving, and not just about their safaris. From vibrant cities to untamed wilderness and world-class wine regions, they got a tantalising taste of the best of South Africa.
Getting to South Africa involves just two international flights. Brenda and Lydia agree that any uneasiness you may anticipate is completely allayed by the hosts of the tours they can organise for you, ensuring you’re wrapped in an exhilarating bubble from the minute you step off the plane.
A LAND REVEALED
Between them, Brenda and Lydia experienced three private game reserves and that being a guest confers pertinent privileges. Thrill at wildlife sightings from the comfort of a purpose built jeep with guides who have an intuitive (aided by technology!) ability to get you up close and personal with elusive and unforgettable beasts in their natural habitat. Game drives typically start before sunrise, with golden light spilling across the savannah, and are repeated from late afternoon for entrancing evening encounters.
Brenda stayed at the Lion Sands River Lodge in the prestigious Sabi Sand Game Reserve. It borders Kruger National Park, a public reserve often congested with traffic. Add the luxury of a suite above the river where wildlife wanders past your deck, and the benefits of a private reserve richly reward your investment.
The luxury continued at Ngala Private Game Reserve with extraordinary encounters with rhino and elephants, and wild dogs on the hunt. The Ngala Treehouse experience where guests spend a night open air under a star spangled sky was described by Brenda as the perfect honeymoon or once in a lifetime stay.
Lion Sands River Lodge
Lydia arrived by air at Phinda Private Game Reserve in the KwaZulu Natal region, an equally amazing private reserve with six luxury lodges spread out over varied habitats and safaris into areas where the ‘big five’ (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo) roam freely. The abundance of wildlife and the proximity of unsoiled coastline and spectacular reefs make Phinda the perfect bush and beach adventure.
CITIES, COASTLINES AND CABERNET
South Africa is much more than the big five. Brenda found Johannesburg (Joburg to the locals) far beyond expectations. Learning of the country’s journey to democracy on a visit to Constitution Hill proved a “poignant eye-opener”, and an inspection of the legendary Rovos Rail (The Pride of Africa Train) encouraged her to recommend this luxury rail journey.
Of all the most lauded hotels Brenda stayed in on her tour, the waterfront Cape Grace Hotel in Cape Town was a favourite, perfect for exploring one of the world’s most beautiful coastal cities, where style, culture and cuisine is ever framed by the silhouette of Table Mountain. Excursions to Chapman’s Peak (cited as the most scenic drive in the world), to windswept Cape Point, and to see the penguins at Boulders Beach were among many highlights.
Table Mountain, Capetown.
Lydia relaxed and imbibed happily in the Cape Winelands, staying at the utterly gorgeous Franschhoek Country House and Villas, where vineyard covered valleys meet Cape Dutch architecture. A day trip from Cape Town to the wine country gave Brenda a taste of its charm and vintages.
In just under two weeks, these YOU Travel & Cruise consultants experienced the wonder of wildlife in superior private reserves, cultural richness, scenic beauty and historical significance in the cities, renowned wine regions and culinary experiences – all enhanced by luxury accommodation, each exuding unique character. What’s not to love? Lydia’s well qualified to name South Africa, “one of my top three travel destinations”.
Brenda’s and Lydia’s trips were aimed at achieving a lot more than having a wonderful holiday. Like many others taken by the YOU Travel & Cruise team, their South Africa journeys were all about gaining personal experience they can share with their clients. YOU Travel & Cruise believes that by investing in knowledge, they add genuine value as travel advisors and facilitators, and enhance the enjoyment and satisfaction travel provides – not to mention the peace of mind of having a professional on the job as you plan and embark on much-anticipated adventures worldwide.
Sundowners at Timbavati Private Nature Reserve.
If South Africa is on your radar, the experts at YOU Travel & Cruise in the Bethlehem Town Centre would love to share their first-hand knowledge of what makes this country an extraordinary destination, and to curate an unforgettable holiday for you. YOUTRAVELBETHLEHEM.CO.NZ
A GRAND ADVENTURE
UNO editor Hayley Barnett and her right-hand man tootle over the hill to get a fresh perspective on a little town with a lot going for it. This is an accessible getaway if ever there was one.
UNO editor Hayley Barnett and her right-hand man tootle over the hill to get a fresh perspective on a little town with a lot going for it. This is an accessible getaway if ever there was one.
Though it might have a reputation as the “town of trees and champions”, over the past decade Cambridge has become a destination known more for its polished hospitality and thriving shopping scene. Over one fun-filled weekend, the quaint equestrian town proved itself to be a surprisingly perfect pick for a romantic getaway.
One Friday afternoon, my husband and I drove over from Tauranga, stopping at the Sculpture Park at Waitakaruru Arboretum on our way in. This is a place I’ve been dying to visit, but on our many drives to Auckland, it has never seemed like the right time.
Built in a former quarry and now spanning hectares of regenerated landscape, the park weaves more than 100 sculptures through a 2km walking trail of ponds, cliffs and thousands of trees. It’s basically an art gallery in nature, and makes for a great hike before the beginning of an indulgent weekend ahead.
The Sculpture Park at Waitakaruru Arboretum.
From there, we headed into a different vibe entirely. Cambridge’s centre is compact and refined, with independent boutiques, cafés and galleries lining the streets.
We checked into The Clements Hotel, a new concept in an old heritage building right in the middle of town. Having been given a contemporary polish of late, the rooms are modern yet also traditional, consistent with the building’s historic character. Its central location makes it an ideal base for a weekend away.
Cambridge is known for being walkable, and staying here meant most of our weekend unfolded on foot. Dinner was easy. We simply went downstairs to the hotel’s light-filled, gallery-style restaurant that leans into seasonal New Zealand produce.
The Gallery at The Clements Hotel.
In keeping with its understated nod to tradition, the offering veers confidently towards the classics – beef tartare, slow-cooked pork belly, glazed duck breast, confit chicken. Nothing feels overly complicated or intimidating, yet the execution is exceptional.
Canning our vague plans to hit the town after dessert – black forest chocolate brûlée, no less – we admitted defeat and agreed a movie might be more appealing. The charming Tivoli Cinema is just around the corner, offering intimate viewing spaces and the option to enjoy a glass of wine.
The next morning started at the local markets, where the region’s produce and small-scale makers are on full display. Cambridge is known for its quality food and artisan goods, and the weekly market is a great way to experience everything it has to offer. Fresh baking, locally made products… It’s a relaxed, unhurried way to begin the day.
Cambridge Distillery Co.
Later, we made our way to the Cambridge Distillery Co, a small operation owned by two couples who joined forces during lockdown to create a business that reflects the wider craft movement in the region. Tastings offer a glimpse into the area’s growing food and drink scene without feeling overly commercial.
Takapoto Estate winery.
A short drive out of town took us to Takapoto Estate winery, near Lake Karāpiro, which combines a vineyard and show-jumping event grounds. Sitting outside with a glass, looking out over the landscape, it’s easy to see why the cellar door is packed with weekend tasters. We settled in with a cheese platter and watched the entertainment unfold between a couple of hen’s parties, proving it’s also a popular spot for celebrations too.
Te Awa River Ride at Lake Karāpiro.
On Sunday, we decided to get a little more active. With Riverside Adventures, we set out on an e-bike ride along the Waikato River, starting at Avantidrome, New Zealand’s national cycling hub. The route follows part of the Te Awa River Ride, a mostly flat, well-maintained trail that connects Cambridge with the wider region. Even for casual cyclists, the e-bikes make it an easy, enjoyable ride. The path winds along the river, through farmland and native bush, before opening out towards Lake Karāpiro, known for its calm waters and scenic setting.
The journey itself is a chance to move through the town and outskirts at a pace that still allows you to take it all in, and being picked up and returned to town makes the whole trip feel seamless.
Alpino in the town centre.
Back in Cambridge, the afternoon slipped easily into more wandering, with a few last stops at boutiques, a coffee and yet another visit to the Cambridge Distillery.
The combination of experiences in art, food, cycling and shopping, all within close reach, makes Cambridge an easy trip for anyone who loves culture, adventure and food.
For couples in particular, that balance is hard to beat. There’s enough to fill a weekend, but also plenty of space to do very little at all. And it’s surprisingly hard to leave.
MIDWINTER MAGIC
It’s tempting to hunker down and hibernate, but let’s not allow the chilly season to pass us by without some memorable moments to show for it. A trip to Whakatāne has all the ingredients to make it a bright spot on your calendar.
It’s tempting to hunker down and hibernate, but let’s not allow the chilly season to pass us by without some memorable moments to show for it. A trip to Whakatāne has all the ingredients to make it a bright spot on your calendar.
The memories we make during our school holidays can last an entire lifetime – a worthy investment, if you think about it. Some are of simple pleasures and rituals experienced at home, while in other instances, travelling even a short distance can provide something new and novel that captures the imagination long after the trip is over.
As the winter term break approaches, so too is Trust Horizon Light Up Whakatāne, an eye-opening experience right here in our regional neighbourhood. Whether you have holidaying kids in tow or not, it presents a vibrant – and free – antidote to winter’s darker days. From 6pm to 9pm from July 11 to 18, Whakatāne’s town centre and riverfront will be aglow and abuzz with art installations (many interactive), sculptures and digital displays, music and dance.
While you’re planning your trip in this neck of the woods, check out some of the best places to eat, play and stay.
EAT
THE COMM - When you’ve been a local institution since 1894, you must be doing something right. Seven days a week, in a thoughtfully preserved heritage building, The Comm offers a stacked menu complete with kids’ meals, and drinks including beer and cider from Good George Brewing on tap.
THE WAGON - Like its twin eatery in Pāpāmoa, the claim to fame of The Wagon in Whakatāne is gourmet burgers. Those who wish to eat vegan or gluten-free will be pleased to hear the menu does not leave you out in the cold.
OLIVE BRANCH - For a more elevated experience, put on your going-out top to dine at Olive Branch. It’s run by two brothers, whose Mediterranean DNA is woven throughout, a delicious international influence that’s balanced by their focus on local ingredients and suppliers.
PLAY
KIWI WANDERING TRAIL - Due to its close proximity to the bush, kiwi can be heard from the CBD and have been spotted in backyards, earning Whakatāne a name as the Kiwi Capital of the World. Providing cute, free, low-key fun, 10 life-size kiwi statues are dotted on a one-hour (1.6km) trail around town for visitors to spot. Download the guide before you go or pick one up at the i-site or Te Kōputu a Te Whanga a Toi Library and Exhibition Centre.
BIKE TRAILS - There are bike trails and more bike trails around these parts. Challenge yourself to ticking off some or all of the Motu Trails Cycleway, one of the 22 great rides that make up Ngā Haerenga, the New Zealand Cycle Trail. You might make biking your reason to drive over the hill to roll along the nice, flat, 2.9km Ōhope Harbourside Trail on two wheels, or go further afield to kick into gear at the Onepū Mountain Bike Park, which caters to all ages and abilities.
EASY WALKS - What will you see if you lace up your sneaks for the hour-long Fairbrother Loop Walk? As well as sensational scenery, the downloadable map lists the birds and insects to keep an eye out for. For those in need of a dappled nervous-system reset, the Mokorua Bush Scenic Reserve walk (1-1.5 hours) is a similarly tranquil experience that sees you strolling beneath the canopy of native trees amid tinkling birdsong.
STAY
BEACHPOINT APARTMENTS - Occupying prime waterfront real estate, these upmarket apartments are fully self-contained (including kitchen and laundry) but serviced with linen and towels. Undercover parking, a heated outdoor swimming pool, a fitness room and a BBQ area might see all the boxes ticked for you.
ŌHOPE BEACH RESORT - Go even more high-end here, where you can opt for accommodation that has views of the ocean on one side or the harbour on the other. Choose from two- or four-bedroom apartments, or if you’re feeling a bit swanky, book into a penthouse. All guests gain access to swimming, spa and lap pools, plus a tennis court, gym, sauna, games room and conservatory.
ONE88 ON COMMERCE - A drawcard of this motel for anyone with waterbabies is that it’s within walking distance of the Aquatic & Fitness Centre and its kid’s beach pool, spas and hydroslide. It’s also 10 minutes’ walk from The Strand, home to those eateries we mentioned. If it sounds like a bit of you, you’ll be even happier to hear you’ll end your stay well-rested, courtesy of the one- or two-bedroom units’ super-king beds, flexible layouts and well-appointed bathrooms, some with big spa baths. WHAKATĀNE.COM
DARE TO DRIFT
Tauranga local Mel Conrad and her family press pause on everyday life to throw caution to the wind and set off on a dream family adventure around the world.
Tauranga local Mel Conrad and her family press pause on everyday life to throw caution to the wind and set off on a dream family adventure around the world.
Leaving NZ for a family gap year
When we told friends and family we were packing up our lives to explore the world with our two young daughters, the reactions were mixed. From “wow, that’s incredible!”, to “what about schooling?”, and “have you won Lotto?” - and occasionally, just a simple, “why?” Often there was a look - half admiration, half concern. As if we had casually announced we were slightly crazy.
To be fair, there were days we wondered the same. But the truth wasn’t dramatic. We hadn’t won Lotto or lost our minds. We simply knew our girls were growing quickly, and this was the season to prioritise time and take a family gap year.
So we did. We took the girls out of school, rented our home and bought a one-way ticket to Vietnam. We didn’t really have a real plan, just a sense that time was moving fast and if we didn’t do this now, we might never do it at all.
Bamboo pole fishing in Ninh Binh, Vietnam
Before we left, life was good. It was full and predictable. Time together compressed between bath and bedtimes.
Vietnam was our first destination, and on day one we faced our first challenge of crossing the road. Holding hands, wideeyed, terrified and thrilled, we stepped into a hectic stream of scooters and cars. The trick, we learned, was to walk confidently and let the traffic flow around us.
When we made it across, the adrenaline was unforgettable. The girls raced back to the hotel to call family and report how scared Mum had been and how brave they were. We knew then this experience would stretch all of us.
Vietnam brought lost luggage, lantern-lit evenings, perspective, and as we got braver, a food tour by scooter.
Swimming with locals at Blue Grotto, Malta
From there we drifted through Europe. Malta gave us village festas and daily swims. In southern Spain we stayed long enough to be recognised by locals. Ireland charmed us. France fed us croissants. Portugal gave us near-empty beaches in November.
Ice fishing on Kemijoki River in Rovaniemi, Finland.
Finland was magical. Riding a sleigh through a snow-covered forest to find Santa’s cabin is something we’ll never forget. We walked along a snowy path calling “Santa?” until a jolly Nordic man with the longest beard appeared and welcomed us inside.
He knew everything about the girls, our dog Tilly back home and even had the letters they’d sent from Portugal before Christmas. Watching their faces, and feeling unexpectedly emotional ourselves, was unforgettable.
Northern lights in Levi, Finland
Somewhere between Morocco’s colour, the Tube in London with backpacks and tired children, and the heat in Doha, it clicked. It doesn’t matter where we are, what matters is that we are doing it together.
But being together constantly does take adjustment. There were tears and travel fatigue. We’ve grown thicker skins and a few more grey hairs.
Schooling has been part of the learning curve too. My husband is a teacher, which sounds ideal. It turns out teaching your own children, who see you as Dad first, is humbling and hilarious.
Moroccan cooking class — making tagine.
We shifted to worldschooling, blending curriculum with real life, like reading signs, journalling in cafés, counting money in markets. We’ve joined WorldSchool hubs along the way, where travelling families gather for shared learning and experiences.
Not every day is easy. I remember trying to get our eldest to read a resource aligned with her year level in New Zealand. She refused. Tears all round.
That afternoon in Oxford, she found a second-hand Harry Potter book in an Oxfam store. She counted her coins, worked out if she had enough and proudly bought it. From that moment, she became a reader. Watching her confidence grow has been everything.
Wandering in Lagos, Portugal.
Our youngest is doing well too but some days she finds harder than others. She misses her friends and structure. But the gift of time means we can adapt to her needs.
People assume long-term travel must be wildly expensive - but it doesn’t have to be. We budgeted around NZ$1,400 a week for accommodation, food and local transport, with separate savings for flights and experiences. Renting out our home covers the mortgage. We stay in budget accommodation, visit places often in the off-season, and housesit and cook where possible.
There have been trade-offs. We sold our only investment property to make this season possible. One of us secured a sabbatical. The other stepped away from work.
We love exploring each place and living like locals, and sometimes there are days when no one feels like sightseeing.
One of those days was in Seville. Tired after a long drive, the girls resisted: “Another old building?” So instead of going out, we put on a movie, opened a bottle of Spanish wine, made a supermarket tapas platter and sat watching videos about Seville.
We never left the room that day. And it’s one of the memories we laugh about most.
Some still ask if we’re crazy. Maybe we are, but many now ask how they might do this too. You don’t need a perfect plan, you just need intention. If the idea keeps nudging you, maybe that’s a sign.
For us, this season has given us more than we imagined. We had time to connect, to watch one another grow and to be together without the constant hum of rushing.
Arctic Circle, Finland
CONSIDERING A FAMILY GAP YEAR?
• Get clear on your why
Know what you want from this season before you start planning.
• Run the numbers
Build a weekly budget and separate savings for flights and big experiences.
• Consider renting or housesitting Renting your home or housesitting/houseswaps abroad can significantly reduce costs.
• Think differently about schooling
Consider different options and resources - formal homeschool structure, online resources, worldschooling hubs, talk to your child’s school.
• Travel slower than you think
Fewer destinations and longer stays mean less fatigue and less money spent.
• Choose seasons and destinations wisely
Shoulder and off-season travel stretches your budget further.
• You don’t need forever
A term, six months or a year can be enough. It doesn’t have to be all or nothing.
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CARVE DIEM
A trip is what you make it, and though a Ruapehu ski adventure is guaranteed to be a good time, you can always up the ante. UNO editor Hayley Barnett finds the best spots to play, stay and eat during a family road trip.
A trip is what you make it, and though a Ruapehu ski adventure is guaranteed to be a good time, you can always up the ante. UNO editor Hayley Barnett finds the best spots to play, stay and eat during a family road trip.
PLAY WHAKAPAPA SKI FIELD
There’s something about a trip to the mountain in winter that you just can’t beat. Yes, in New Zealand the weather is always a bit of a gamble, but even on the worst days you come away exhilarated, having made the most of a full day on the slopes. On this particular morning, as we headed up the mountain giddy with excitement and anticipation, the snow gods had delivered. We’d been granted a bluebird day, a park near the top and surprisingly short queues. On the advice of friends travelling with us, we left Turangi around 7.45am, making it an easy half-hour drive with barely any traffic.
We’d opted to hire our skis up the mountain, because there’s nothing worse than clomping up the road in giant plastic boots while accidentally taking people out with your skis and poles every time you turn around.
After collecting our passes, we took the lift down to Happy Valley to be fitted for our gear. The fuss-free service was much quicker than expected and we hurried out onto the learner field to get Oscar, our eight-year-old, to his ski lesson.
Of course, a small glitch in the system (also known as me forgetting to confirm the booking) meant Oscar’s name didn’t appear on the list. So I spent the next two hours impressing my husband by skiing down the valley in a backwards wedge as Oscar screamed. While I’d highly recommend confirming your child’s ski lesson before you arrive, it was actually pretty satisfying watching him finally fly down the slope with a huge grin on his face, just as I was about to throw in the towel.
Before lunchtime, my daughter Poppy and I parted with the boys, who were off on their own adventure to discover the sledding zone in Happy Valley, where you can hire toboggans and carve up the dug out tracks for up to an hour. Instead we rode the famous Sky Waka Gondola up the mountain to muck around in the Rock Garden. It wasn’t long before we ran into more friends and ended up on the deck of the Knoll Ridge Chalet, which overlooks most of the ski field and the stunning three peaks of Tongariro.
As we sat there, slightly in awe of the scenery, a skier suddenly appeared over one of the peaks, impressing everyone as he carved down the face of the mountain before stopping right on the edge of a cliff. A collective gasp rippled through the lunchtime crowd as he jumped, then tumbled like a ragdoll down the slope, finally landing motionless in the snow.
Watching the dramatic rescue quickly became one of the highlights of the kids’ day, as they retold the story to friends for weeks afterwards. Thankfully, he was okay in the end, even popping up weeks later on a skiing Facebook page to share the update.
OHAKUNE
The next day, the weather gods weren’t so kind. We’d planned to head to Turoa Ski Field, just under an hour’s drive from Whakapapa, but the wind had picked up considerably, forcing the mountain to close. Though the kids were disappointed they couldn’t ski, we’d heard that Ohakune, the small ski town at the base of Turoa, was the perfect place to spend a day with kids.
Oscar was also strangely fixated on Ohakune’s giant carrot after a recent school project on the town, so we ventured forth. The Ohakune Carrotland Adventure Park is a wonder, and not just because of its 7.5-metre-tall frontman, voted Landmark of the Year in a nationwide poll in 2023. The carrot has a full cast of veggie companions, including a swede, Brussels sprout, potato and parsnip, which only add to the park’s surreal charm. The kids clambered through playgrounds, raced along the flying fox, and tested their stamina on the endurance course.
Photo ops are everywhere, and it’s impossible not to lean into the silliness. The town’s carrot obsession actually stretches back a century, when Chinese settlers first cleared the land and began growing the crop that would make Ohakune famous.
Today, the region still produces around two-thirds of the North Island’s carrots, making the giant vegetable feel surprisingly well deserved.
Since the carrot park hadn’t quite exhausted the kids’ energy, we headed to another quirky stop just 10 minutes away in Raetihi. Dinosaur House is a chaotic prehistoric wonderland, packed with life-sized dinosaur models, fossils and animatronic creatures that roar into life when you least expect it. There are even movie props, including memorabilia from Jurassic Park, much to Oscar’s delight.
STAY
THE QUARTERS
Tucked away in Tūrangi, The Quarters felt like the perfect hideaway. Just a scenic half-hour drive from Whakapapa, it made getting on the slopes early a breeze without having to stay on the mountain itself. Our two-bedroom family apartment had plenty of space for everyone to unwind after a full day carving up the snow, while the kids claimed their corners and quickly made themselves at home. For couples or solo travellers chasing fresh powder, the studios offered a cosy, pared-back alternative that still felt inviting. Friends opted for one of the studios and simply pumped up an airbed for their 10-year-old. Being fully self-contained meant slow, lazy breakfasts before hitting the road, but we also loved that a short stroll brought us straight to Tūrangi’s dining options, making it easy to hang up ski jackets and enjoy a fuss-free dinner after a big day outdoors.
LAKE TAUPŌ HOLIDAY RESORT
The challenge in travelling with kids is finding somewhere to stay that will keep them off the iPads. Lake Taupō Holiday Resort ticks all the boxes, being less a holiday park and more a family playground. The thermally heated lagoon pool was the obvious star, with its diving grotto, swim-up bar, giant poolside movie screen, and a pair of twisting hydroslides that had the kids racing each other for hours. The water was warm enough to keep them splashing well after we’d unpacked the car, and the heated villas with electric blankets kept us warm after hopping out. Being just over an hour from Whakapapa made it the perfect base for a mountain adventure, while Taupō’s restaurants, shops, and indoor activities meant we were never short of options on slower days.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN CHALETS
These chalets in Ohakune felt like a true home away from home. With the mountain closed, we were perfectly content tucked up inside our cosy retreat. After a full day of adventure, we sank into one of the three on‐site spa pools, letting tired legs soak while the kids laughed and played nearby. Just a five-minute stroll took us to Ohakune’s famous playground, making it effortless to keep the little ones entertained. With Tūroa Ski Field just around the corner and plenty of cafés, bars, and eateries on the doorstep, it proved to be a fantastic base for both exploring the slopes and soaking up the charm of Ohakune.
EAT
JOHNNY NATION’S CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR SHOP
After an afternoon at the park, we treated the kids to something sweet at Johnny Nation’s Chocolate Éclair Shop in Ohakune, and, as expected, it was a hit. Famous for its world-renowned Ohakune chocolate eclairs, the little shop feels like a treasure trove of treats, offering up decadent cakes and pies sandwiches, and even fresh vegetables for the grown-ups. The eclairs, filled with fresh cream, are a daily ritual for locals and visitors, and it’s easy to see why. The kids were also kept entertained by the myriad of post-it notes left by diners and pressed all over the walls. By the time we’d finished, the sugar rush had everyone smiling, and it was clear that Ohakune’s sweet reputation is very well deserved.
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DIXIE BROWNS
On more helpful advice from friends, we pulled up to Dixie Browns in the heart of Taupō and instantly understood its reputation as a lakefront favourite for families. The place buzzes with energy and the food options are endless, from juicy, flame-grilled burgers and golden fish and chips to melt-in-your-mouth slow-cooked ribs and indulgent milkshakes. The portions are generous and the kids happily dived in while we lingered over our drinks, watching the sun go down behind the lake.
MATTERHORN
When in Ohakune, we made sure to stop for a meal at Matterhorn, and it didn’t disappoint. This cosy alpine-style restaurant, tucked inside the Powderhorn Chalet just above the lively Powderkeg Bar, has a menu to suit everyone, from hearty classics to more elevated dishes. The highlight was watching the mulled wine being gently warmed over the open fire right in front of us. It would be a great way to unwind after a day on (or off) the mountain. It’s wonderfully family‐friendly, with space for the kids to wander, and has plenty of options to keep little diners happy.
GOLDEN CRUST PIZZA
After a day on the slopes, we found ourselves pulling up to Golden Crust Pizza in Tūrangi for dinner. Tucked just off the main road, this family‐friendly pizzeria has earned a reputation locally for its generous, flavour‐packed pizzas and welcoming vibe. The menu is bigger than you might expect. There’s BBQ chicken, peri‐peri and meat‐lover’s pies loaded with toppings, plus burgers, thick shakes and sides for anyone who’s still peckish after a day outdoors. We ordered a few different pizzas and the kids loved picking slices straight off the board. Plenty of locals and visitors were stopping by while we were there, which felt like a good sign, and between rounds of pizza and thick shakes, everyone agreed it was a pit stop worth making before heading back to base.
BEST OF BOTH WORLDS
Karl Puschmann puts the new Lexus flagship SUV, the RZ 550e F Sport, to the test on an overnight road trip through the winding Waikato. But, is the car a refined, luxury cruiser or a performance powerhouse? As it turns out, it’s both.
Karl Puschmann puts the new Lexus flagship SUV, the RZ 550e F Sport, to the test on an overnight roadtrip through the winding Waikato. But, is the car a refined, luxury cruiser or a performance powerhouse? As it turns out, it’s both.
PHOTOS JAHL MARSHALL
A trip to Cambridge seemed the perfect excuse to test drive the new flagship EV SUV from Lexus. But really, it was the other way round. The sleek RZ 550e F Sport provided a compelling reason to drop the kids at Nana’s and hit the open road.
As the crown jewel of their EV range, the F Sport is brimming with high-end tech and all the creature comforts Lexus is renowned for. The package is topped off with a stylish, head-turning design and bleeding- edge performance that practically demands to be taken out of the congested city streets and let loose. I was happy to oblige.
As you’d expect, tackling the mountainous Kaimai Range proved no challenge. With a hefty 402-horsepower on tap, we thundered up its steep, winding slope and had more than enough juice to safely pass the lumbering trucks that pulled into the slow vehicle bays on the short corners of the decline.
From there, State Highway 29 is a mostly straightforward journey to Cambridge, which allowed me to get some real-world testing of the car’s driver features. These are bundled under the Lexus Safety System+ 3.0 umbrella and include Lane Tracing Assist, which helps keep the car centred in its lane when adaptive cruise control is engaged, All-Speed Dynamic Radar Cruise Control, which automatically adjusts acceleration and braking to maintain a safe following distance, and Curve Speed Management, which can reduce speed through bends when cruise control is active.
I found that letting the driver-assist systems shoulder much of the steering, acceleration and braking reduced fatigue, although this would likely be more noticeable on longer trips, with Cambridge only a little over an hour away. With these features engaged, the car can briefly track the lane on its own, though it quickly prompts you to keep your hands on the wheel if it senses you’ve let go.
Setting your speed and engaging the systems is as easy as pressing one of the touch-sensitive buttons on the steering yoke (yes, steering yoke, not steering wheel) once you reach your desired cruising speed. The yoke is the F Sport’s marquee feature, and we’ll get to it in a moment.
From there, you can run adaptive cruise control on its own, or add lane tracing assist for steering support, with the option to have both working together. Their status appears in the heads-up display, projected onto the windscreen directly in the driver’s line of sight.
This may be the sport model, but the ride inside was never anything less than comfortable and whisper-quiet, even on the plentiful stretches of chipseal road. The silence provided the perfect canvas for the impressive 13-speaker Mark Levinson sound system to shine, while the Ultrasuede-trimmed sports seats, with their blue- stitch detailing, proved both comfortable and supportive.
With my phone sitting on the charging pad, it was simple to navigate Apple CarPlay through the Infotainment system’s crisp and bright 14-inch touchscreen display. It was too nice a day to use the heated seats or steering yoke, but pressing a button to switch the Dynamic Sky panoramic roof from opaque to transparent flooded the cabin with natural light and
blue sky, making the spacious interior feel even airier. Much like the seats, the position of the steering yoke can be electronically adjusted for reach and height, with memory settings allowing multiple drivers to quickly return to their preferred seat, steering and mirror positions.
This is a good time to talk about the synthetic leather–clad steering yoke, which replaces the traditional wheel and looks like it’s been transplanted from an F1 car, complete with what Top Gear’s Jeremy Clarkson dubbed “flappy paddles.” The RZ 550e also ditches the mechanical steering column in favour of a full steer-by- wire system, replacing traditional mechanical linkages with digital precision. It’s easy to oversteer at first, but I quickly acclimated to its responsiveness, with the smallest turn of the wrist producing surgical maneuvers.
Not that I was too worried about precision or scratching the 20-inch alloy wheels, or their aerodynamic resin covers, when I pulled up outside the newly renovated, historic Clements Hotel, our lodgings for the night in the heart of Cambridge. Instead, I happily pushed a button and let the Advanced Park system navigate us into the space. Lexus EVs have had this feature for a couple of years, but it still feels like magic every time, and there’s a satisfying moment seeing the car parked perfectly in the middle of even the tightest spot.
We’d left Tauranga on a full charge and were still sitting above 60 percent on arrival, which was impressive, considering I’d been fiddling with every button I could reach, had the Climate Concierge cranking, and had really been putting the car through its paces.
We cruised all around Cambridge and ventured out to the Sculpture Park at Waitakaruru Arboretum, roughly 20 minutes from town, as well as the Takapoto Estate Winery, which was another 20 minutes in the opposite direction, before bidding farewell to The Clements, packing our two suitcases into the F Sport’s spacious boot, and heading home the next day.
There was one feature I’d purposefully saved for the return trip: the 550e F Sport’s exclusive Manual Mode. This uses the flappy paddles on the yoke to physically simulate an 8-speed manual gearbox, essentially transforming the car from an automatic into a rocket-powered manual, although it must be stressed that in auto, the car is no slouch, capable of throwing you back against your seat as it rockets to 100km/h in a mere 4.4 seconds.
Taking manual control of all that power was a thrill, seeing the rev counter race up to the red and hearing the engine roar as I planted my foot down. But, you may be thinking, this is an EV - I shouldn’t have been hearing any roaring whatsoever out of its battery- powered motor. And you’re right, I shouldn’t have been. But Lexus has very cleverly equipped the F Sport with what they call Active Sound Control, which simulates the sound of a high-performance engine, roaring, rising and falling in perfect sync with every flappy paddle gear shift. It makes for a visceral experience and one that is a heck of a lot of fun.
With an advertised 437 km range on a single charge, I had no battery anxiety at all on our trip, even with how much time we spent in the car and my enthusiastic pushing of the vehicle. In fact, I didn’t charge it at all until we got back to Tauranga, where I gave the car a quick blat from one of the Quick Charge stations at The Crossing while we grabbed a bite to eat.
With its sharp style, racy split rear spoiler, blacked out trim and aerodynamic body kit, the 550e F Sport leaves no doubt that it means business, while the sophistication of its design reinforces its premium luxury roots. This is reflected in its driving experience.
You can cruise in supreme comfort or harness the thrills of its power. Whichever you choose,it doesn’t disappoint.
CRUISE CONTROL
YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem’s Catherine Membery boards Silver Moon to see what sets Silversea apart – and why small-ship cruising continues to win over seasoned travellers.
YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem’s Catherine Membery boards Silver Moon to see what sets Silversea apart - and why small-ship cruising continues to win over seasoned travellers.
Catherine Membery and her husband joined Silver Moon in Hobart, midway through a voyage from Auckland to Melbourne. With just 596 guests on board, the scale felt calm and intimate from the outset.
The service was a standout for me,” she says. “The Silversea crew numbers nearly match that of its passengers, and they were unfailingly respectful, friendly and efficient. We loved meeting our butler and truly valued how he personalised our experience; and witnessed our fellow passengers also enjoying their interactions with the attentive crew.”
Many guests on board were seasoned travellers choosing to simplify the way they see the world. Catherine met a woman who, after a lifetime of travel, said cruise life suited her perfectly, allowing her to continue overseas journeys without the usual logistics.
Only unpack once
It’s one of cruising’s simplest luxuries. Settled into their ocean-view suite, Catherine appreciated the ease of unpacking just once and waking somewhere new each day. She explored Hobart independently but recommends organised shore excursions. “That way you always ensure you get back to the ship on time!” she laughs.
Broaden the mind
On-board experiences are varied enough that the ship becomes part of the destination. “So much to do and so many interesting people to meet,” says Catherine. “Meals are magic when dining options are so varied, with a range of included wines, notably regional varieties. Among the restaurants with exceptional cuisine and service, Silver Note was a special treat, an intimate but lively space with pianist and jazz singer. Salt Bar became a regular for cocktails and socialising with other guests. The immersive S.A.L.T. (Sea And Land Taste) destination based culinary programme is a feature I enjoyed on Silver Moon.”
Daily activities range from entertainment and lectures linked to ports of call to time in the pool, on deck, at the gym or in the spa.
The world is your oyster
Silversea’s 12 ships sail to more than 900 destinations worldwide, from Northern Europe’s Baltic and the Mediterranean to Asia, Alaska and closer-to-home itineraries around New Zealand and Australia. Expedition voyages to Antarctica and the Arctic add another layer for those seeking something more remote.
“There’s a reason so many overseas tourists cruise New Zealand and Australia,” Catherine points out. “Arriving in Melbourne by sea was spectacular.”
“Experiencing a Silversea cruise for myself exceeded my already high expectations. What a wonderful way to see the world.”
WHAKATĀNE’S LAST TASTE OF SUMMER
Take your pick of these tantalising ways to savour the best food in the Eastern Bay.
Take your pick of these tantalising ways to savour the best food in the Eastern Bay.
Long Lunch Italian Style
Autumn in the Eastern Bay of Plenty seems to hold onto summer that much longer. The days are warm and calm, the ocean still inviting, and the coastline feels wide open once the holiday crowds have gone. It’s a great time to plan a trip to Whakatāne and the surrounding coast, especially with plenty happening across the region.
This season, the Eastern Bay is hosting a mix of foodie events, some part of the Bay’s popular Flavours of Plenty festival, that all highlight the region’s produce, fresh seafood and generous hospitality.
FARMING LIKE GRANDAD
April 18 — Te Teko Racecourse
While not all about food, this is one of the most-loved events on the autumn calendar. See the Clydesdale horses, sheep shearing, tractors, and farm machinery (old and new). There are wagon rides, vintage cars, exhibitions by the Axe Men, chainsaw races, farm animals, craft stalls, old-style kids’ games, food and live music - a classic country day out. Please note: due to farm animals, kindly leave dogs at home.
ŌHIWA OYSTER FESTIVAL
May 16 - Port Ōhope Wharf
Now in its third year, the Ōhiwa Oyster Festival returns with a day celebrating the start of the oyster season. Hosted by Tio Ōhiwa, the festival features freshly shucked oysters, seafood vendors from around Aotearoa, chef demonstrations, live music, markets and competitions, all set against the harbour backdrop at Port Ōhope Wharf. Tickets include entry and access to entertainment, activities and oyster stations throughout the day.
SHUCKED & POURED: ŌHIWA OYSTERS X MATA BEER
April 17 — Mata Brewery
A guided tasting that pairs freshly shucked Tio Ōhiwa oysters with a curated selection of Mata beers. Explore how different beer styles complement the briny character of the oysters, including a signature “oyster shooter”.
THE BIG FAT GREEK CYPRIOT LUNCH
April 18 - Awakaponga Community Hall
An instant sell-out in 2025, this lively event returns with a generous Greek Cypriot feast served meze-style, alongside music and plenty of convivial atmosphere.
SMOKE ON THE WATER
April 19 - Fisherman’s Wharf
Join Fisherman’s Wharf for a spectacular evening celebrating the craft of open-fire cooking. Enjoy a smoky four-course dinner, paired with drinks, and cooked entirely over live flames by renowned chef Paul Patterson.
SMOKE, FIRE & BBQ
April 25 - The Run 15
Celebrate the fundamentals of flavour with a campfire feast under the stars. Go off-grid for a one-night-only farm dining experience featuring generous barbecue, tips and tricks from the pit, and optional hands-on moments - all enjoyed fireside beneath clear country skies.
LE REPAS VAGABOND
April 25 — Waingarara Valley
A 12-course wandering meal of chef-led surprises inspired by Spanish, French, and Mediterranean flavours. This roaming feast promises creativity, generous flavour and plenty of surprises along the way. Bon Appétit. Sahten. Buen provecho.
MORE TO TICKLE THE TASTEBUDS MYSTERY FOOD TOUR
April 18 — Whakatāne
ALL YOU CAN EAT TACO NIGHT
April 22 & 29 - Cadera
NOSE TO TAIL BBQ FEAST
May 1 - The Smokin’ Goose
APPRENDRE PIZZA + CROISSANT
May 2 - L’Atelier
LONG LUNCH ITALIAN STYLE
May 2 - Top Shelf
INTO THE WILD
The Hollyford Wilderness Experience offers Liz French a rare chance to explore remote Fiordland in comfort.
The Hollyford Wilderness Experience offers Liz French a rare chance to explore remote Fiordland in comfort.
PHOTOS LIZ FRENCH + SUPPLIED
Sometimes it takes the eyes of foreigners to make you appreciate your own country. While I was walking (more like striding) along the native foliage canopied track, thinking, “This is a lovely bit of bush, but no more spectacular than I’ve seen on many tramps before,” two American women in our group were in tears of awe at the beauty of it, at greens so vivid they seemed artificially enhanced.
We were on the first day of the three-day Hollyford Wilderness Experience. There were 14 in our group: a fun-loving family of five from Chicago, two gobsmacked girls from Denver, another from Sydney, an acerbic retired medical professor and his quick-witted wife from Nelson, my partner Mark and me from Tauranga, plus our two guides, Jack and Rosie, both in their twenties, both people you would trust your life with.
Lunch above the river broke up the day. The track is mainly flat with one gentle incline over the 168-metre Little Homer Saddle. We had a hell of a time getting to Te Anau the day before, plagued by Air New Zealand cancellations and postponements, and finally arriving, minus bags, after midnight. Luckily, we had the prescience to wear our boots and have all we needed for this trip in our backpacks.
As I was a bit fatigued before I even started, it was a relief to finally arrive at Ka Tuku (Pyke Lodge) and be welcomed by our hosts, Stephane and Caro, who told us this was the first fine day in weeks. As Fiordland gets something like 300 days of rain a year, you do have to be prepared for it. The first day is the longest walk by far — 19.5 kilometres from the Hollyford Road end to the first lodge.
I love a river walk so I was delighted to find that, while we spent a lot of time shrouded in bush, we also had views across the Hollyford River to the Darren Mountains, giving us a good sky quotient.
A couple of dramatic waterfalls and Talk about sophisticated rustic luxury. A comfy room with ensuite, drying room (good when you are only carrying 4kg and one spare pair of knickers), and a big lounge where we enjoyed a pre-dinner platter with as much beer or wine as we wanted, followed by venison for dinner. We were in bed before the lemon tart.
The second day delivered the expected drizzle and an easier and more varied experience. Fortified by a good sleep and eggs benedict for breakfast I revelled in the return walk to Lake Alabaster in all its mystic glory, the greens of surrounding bush glowing even brighter in the rain.
Hidden Falls.
We took a slight detour over the longest swing bridge in Fiordland, which is also the start of the Demon Trail, suitable for highly experienced trampers only, and which the Hollyford Wilderness Experience avoids by scooting us past in a jetboat.
The hour-long trip followed the river into Lake McKerrow via a stop at Jamestown, the site of a failed West Coast settlement. You feel pathetic in your high-tech gear when you hear the horrendous hardships of the pioneers, and the sheer tenacity of people like Davey Gunn, who farmed in the valley, routinely walking 50kms a day, until he drowned there in 1955.
The day wasn’t over yet. We were jet boated across the river from the lodge to traverse the wild, wet and deserted coastline of Martins Bay. We had walked about 15kms that day so I was well ready to relax in the hot tubs across the lawn from rooms even lovelier than the previous night’s.
Sandflies are an issue on the coast and, as I had refused a funereal black net to cover my head, I resorted to repellent and arm flapping.
Rare bright blue skies greeted us the next day as we jetted up the river and walked back through the soaring trees of ancient podocarp forest. One giant Rimu had such a girth it took seven people to hug it.
Liz French on the wild west coast.
You can’t get a much better finale to a trip than a thrilling helicopter flight along rugged coastline and into dramatic Milford Sound, with the bonus of perfect visibility. A slightly intrepid wander through bush led to a clearing with a safari tent where a long table was set up for a lunch of soup and delicious salads. I wondered how they did this until I discovered a four-wheel drive track to our second night’s accommodation, Waitai (Martins Bay) Lodge.
After the coach ride back to Te Anau on one of the country’s most scenic roads, we farewelled our new friends and I promised them a copy of my story in UNO.
Yes, it was expensive (around $4,000 per person), but priceless as an unforgettable experience.
DRIVING CHANGE
Ebbett is driving into the future with an unusual new high-profile location. It’s a first for the family-owned car dealership, and one which could change the way cars are sold here in New Zealand.
Ebbett is driving into the future with an unusual new high-profile location. It’s a first for the family-owned car dealership, and one which could change the way cars are sold here in New Zealand.
We usually head to the mall for a spot of shopping, a visit to the Food Court or to catch the latest blockbuster movie. But how about picking out your new car before popping in to browse the latest fashions or meeting your friends for coffee?
In Hamilton, you can now do exactly that as the Waikato’s longstanding, family-owned car business Ebbett has opened a new dealership at popular shopping spot, The Base.
“Opening a dealership at a shopping mall is not something we've done before,” store manager Ben van den Engel enthuses. “It’s a whole new concept. It’s exciting and scary at the same time.”
It’s a bold and innovative venture for Ebbett Group, which has long been recognised for its commitment to customer service and the local communities that are home to its dealerships.
Instead of the traditional car yard, Ebbett The Base offers a premium and high-end experience.
“It’s less intimidating for people,” Ben says. “You're not going to this big, shiny showroom with thousands of cars and lots of salespeople waiting to pounce. It’s more intimate and more approachable.”
While a mall-based dealership is a new concept in Aotearoa, Ebbett director Richard van den Engel explains that while the high-profile location attracts foot traffic, the customer experience must remain seamless.
To that end, shoppers can explore vehicles in a premium, transparent environment with glass walls, couch seating and refreshments. For anyone wanting an immediate test drive, the demo vehicles are parked right outside the door. “It’s got the best of both worlds,” Richard smiles.
While it may look and operate differently from traditional car dealerships, all the expected aspects of the buying process can be handled in-store. Trade ins are appraised immediately, financing and insurance are handled in-house and mechanical services are coordinated with Ebbett’s workshop, conveniently located only a minute’s drive away. Simply drop your car off at the mall and they’ll handle the rest.
And unlike traditional dealerships, where customers encounter multiple staff members for sales, finance and aftercare, Ebbett takes a more personal approach.
“You’re dealing with the same person for all of those experiences all the way through,” Ben says. “It’s much more personal. And what Ebbett is all about.”
Another exciting development for Ebbett is the addition of the luxurious and technologically cutting-edge brands Zeekr and Geely range to their stock line-up.
“Zeekr is a premium Chinese brand that is looking to compete with Audi, Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedes,” Ben says. “It’s got all the gizmos and fit and finish that you’d expect of a European car.”
When you consider Zeekr’s heritage, this isn’t surprising. The EV brand is part of the larger Geely family, the ninth largest seller of motor vehicles in the world. Its upmarket siblings include the elite sports car manufacturer Lotus, the European luxury brand Volvo and performance brand Polestar.
Ben explains that the Zeekr range consists of premium, sporty, cutting-edge vehicles, while the Geely range offers premium tech at a price point that's accessible to everyday Kiwis.
“Geely and Zeekr might be new brands in New Zealand, but they’re not small players,” he says. “Chinese manufacturers are often at the forefront of technology and innovation, and both of these brands deliver premium comfort, cutting-edge features, and competitive performance. I had a customer the other day get out of a Porsche Macan to test drive the Geely Starray, and he was blown away with how well it drove and the comfort and finish on the interior.”
Like the store itself, these two flagship brands challenge traditional market expectations. Zeekr, for example, offers high-performance vehicles that rival established European models. Their 7X model accelerates from 0 to 100 km/h in just 3.8 seconds, delivering thrilling performance without compromising on comfort.
The community response to Ebbett’s new shopping mall location has been enthusiastic, with shoppers embracing the new format, testing vehicles, engaging with staff and sharing their impressions.
For both Ben and Richard, the most rewarding aspect has been the alignment of their values with daily operations.
“We try to do things differently at Ebbett. Our values are integrity, care, excellence and respect. And we actually strive to live that each and every day,” Ben says. “We want to give you such a great experience that you come back to buy a second car and tell your friends and family. Our vision is customers for life. That culture permeates through everything we do. It’s a buzz to be a part of.”
MELBOURNE IN MOTION
Melbourne is a city of all things to all people, yet it’s as individual as the people who inhabit it. And it’s a place that has Jo Ferris captivated.
Melbourne is a city of all things to all people, yet it’s as individual as the people who inhabit it. And it’s a place that has Jo Ferris captivated.
I last visited Melbourne 28 years ago, to see The Three Tenors on the MCG’s hallowed grounds. Previous trips include tennis at the Australian Open and catching up with ex-pats in the suburbs. After so long, thoughts of reviving memories certainly whet the appetite.
Keith Urban rocking his guitar riffs was the reason for this trip. However, my foodie friend and I were keen to tempt our taste buds as well — all in just five days.
Given New Zealand’s entire population f its in this eclectic city, exploring everything is impossible. Melbourne is vast. It stops a nation every year for the Melbourne Cup. It’s home of Aussie rules footie and arguably Australia’s soul of culture and cuisine.
A city of immense diversity, it is the 10th largest immigrant population among world metropolitan areas, with around 100 different ethnicities. From Greek to Arabic, Vietnamese to Mandarin, strolling Melbourne’s inner sanctum is akin to mingling amid melodious bird chatter.
Downtown truly buzzes. And, amazingly, everyone is friendly. Helpful too, when you need help with trams.
DO
Melbourne’s free tram system has to be one of its best attractions. While free only within the city centre, routes include all that makes Melbourne unique. Modern trams have replaced Melbourne’s iconic vehicles of the past. However, one trip remains for these distinctive trundlers, as synonymous with Melbourne’s history as Flinders Rail Station.
Route 35 starts near this station — a scenic circuit that departs every 12 minutes, passing notable landmarks and an audio commentary enhancing the experience. Enjoy the free journey as a complete tour, or hop on and off to explore Melbourne’s wider city attractions.
Having also paid for a day ticket on either trams or trains, we asked a friendly copper the best place to go. St Kilda was the instant response. More specifically, Acland Street, last cab on the rank — and a great tip.
Acland Street is home to artisans and foodies. Pavements are festooned with fashion racks; shop windows are adorned with patisseries that put kilos on just looking at them. Wisely avoiding those, we plumped for a pub lunch, before the return trip, past Lunar Park, Docklands and historic landmarks.
QUEEN VICTORIA MARKET
You could spend a week in Queen Victoria Market and probably still not explore everything. The indoor food hall is a banquet of extraordinary proportions. The chatter and banter, smells and samples have to be seen to be believed. This, even before you wander into the craft market and aisles of treasures, clothing and jewellery. And that’s just during the day. Throughout the seasons, night markets take control each Wednesday. Luckily, we caught the last of the winter series. A smorgasbord of international foodie flavours and fashion — nirvana on steroids!
EAT
Melbourne is legendary for its market fare and laneway eateries. With only days to absorb it, our focus was downtown. A stone’s-throw from Flinders Station, Degraves Street is a city favourite. Flanked by restaurants, umbrella seating dominating the lane’s no-vehicle thoroughfare, staff on sidewalks vie for custom; blackboard specials at their side and menu in hand. Lygon Street — famously known as ‘Little Italy’ — is Melbourne’s birthplace of café culture.
After a free tram leg from the city centre, it’s an easy walk to this precinct, past the historic Melbourne Gaol, if you want a sideline attraction. Good to know: Restaurants only come alive as day turns towards evening.
Arriving mid-afternoon, we opted for a sweet treat. Tiramisu — shared, thanks to its gargantuan serving for one!
STAY
Choosing where to stay boils down to what you want to do and how long you have. Being closest to the action was a priority — and affordability. Mercure Melbourne Southbank fitted the bill nicely.
Sitting opposite Flinders Station on the other side of the Yarra River, it was both central and affordable, taxis conveniently outside the front door. To the tennis centre for Keith Urban’s concert, it was around AU$45; and from AU$85 to AU$100 one way to the airport. With twin rooms costing between AU$250 and AU$285, there’s a restaurant if you want. Obviously, we avoided it. This is Melbourne, after all.
Just a five-minute walk away is the Casino by the Yarra River and riverboat restaurants for a true tourist experience, as well as eateries galore within cooee.
As a short hop across the ditch, you can’t beat Melbourne’s inner-city vibe. Its high-rise architecture is mesmerising — sexy with its glistening rainbow of glass-wall artistry; and simply dazzling at night.
After a week basking in it and memories renewed, I’m not waiting another 28 years to return.
HISTORIC, LEGENDARY, UNMISTAKABLE
• Wominjeka (welcome) – acknowledges Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung and Bunurong/Boon Wurrung, the First Peoples of Narrm (Melbourne).
• Flinders Street Station is Australia’s oldest train station, and busiest in the southern hemisphere.
• Free inner-city transport includes the historic W-class trams on Route 35. This City Circle tram passes Melbourne Aquarium, Docklands, Federation Square, Parliament House and St Paul’s Cathedral, among other landmarks.
• Myki is a reusable travel card and ticket for trains, trams and buses. Buy and top up at numerous shops, including 7-Eleven stores.
• CBD landmarks include Yarra River, river boats and walkways, MCG, Melbourne Park sports entertainment precinct, Federation Square, Parliament House, Crown Casino, Arts Centre, Melbourne Sky Deck, Old Melbourne Gaol, Docklands, China Town, among others.
• Queen Victoria Market dates back 140 years; with its historic Meat and Fish Hall, fresh produce, arts and crafts. Seasonal night markets run on Wednesdays, while markets elsewhere have their own distinctive vibe.
• Destination shopping includes Myers, David Jones, Collins Street boutiques, Emporium Melbourne and Melbourne Central centre.
POLES APART
Penguins or polar bears? Are Antarctica and the Arctic similar or poles apart? Sarah Porter from Wild Earth Travel, supplier to YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem, sailed as a guest on the French ship, Ponant Le Commandant Charcot.
Penguins or polar bears? Are Antarctica and the Arctic similar or poles apart? Sarah Porter from Wild Earth Travel, supplier to YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem, sailed as a guest on the French ship, Ponant Le Commandant Charcot.
Understanding the difference between these two regions at the opposite ends of the globe starts with simple geography. Antarctica is a frozen continent surrounded by ocean; the Arctic is frozen sea surrounded by land.
The Arctic region extends over Canada, Alaska, Greenland, Russia, Norway and Iceland, which are all homes to native communities. Antarctica does not belong to any country and has many scientific bases, but no permanent inhabitants.
WILDLIFE
Wildlife is one of the biggest differences between the polar regions. My first view of Antarctic wildlife on South Shetland Island was a shoreline covered in penguins and seals, whales not far off land. Human contact is limited in the Antarctic which makes the animals fearless and inquisitive and penguins will likely come and inspect your boots.
The word Arctic is derived from the Greek ‘arktos’ meaning’ bear’, and one of the main reasons to visit the Arctic is to see the polar bear. Arctic foxes, reindeer, walrus, musk ox, seals and whales are also found in the north, as well as birdlife.
I visited the Arctic on a journey to East Greenland on the world’s only luxury ice breaker, Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot, at the beginning of the season. We came across a whale carcass wedged between two ice sheets, a natural buffet attracting an astounding 68 polar bears, a first even for our captain and our Inuit ‘polar bear spotters’.
PEOPLE
The six countries of the Arctic region create diversity in culture, language and customs, though sharing traditional livelihoods like f ishing and hunting. As our Greenlandic guides kept watch for polar bears, I learnt what it is like to live in in complete darkness for much of the year and how their community of Ittoqqortoormiit (the most remote in the world) is only accessible by helicopter for nine months due to frozen sea ice.
On the Le Soleal in Antarctica I enjoyed chats with people posted at the bases and stations over the summer season, but there are no ‘locals’ in Antarctica. On both voyages historians within the ship’s expedition teams shared stories and insights into the early explorers, from Erik the Red in Greenland to Scott, Shackleton and other Antarctic explorers.
ICE
Ice became a topic of surprise and delight as I learnt how different it is in each region and how many forms it takes — fast ice, first-year ice, brash ice, pack ice and, of course, ice bergs (to name a few!). Sea ice in the Arctic freezes in winter and melts during summer. Antarctica is not constrained by landmasses so sea ice spreads over a much larger area. Antarctic glaciers are much bigger than those of the Arctic, the Arctic icebergs more jagged in shape.
SEASONS
You can only travel to Antarctica in summer (November – March), with the ice more pristine and the penguins courting early in the season. In February and March you see penguin chicks and March is best for whale watching. The Arctic summer is peak tourist season with longer days (the midnight sun) and milder temperatures for outdoor activities.
Many visit in winter to see the northern lights. Which wins? I loved both for the sense of vastness and unexpected wildlife encounters, the deafening silence and magical atmosphere. Seeing 68 bears made the Arctic my favourite voyage, however Antarctica would be my favourite destination. I’d return to both in a heartbeat for I have only experienced the very tip of the iceberg.
WALK THIS WAY
Between shady forest walks, hidden waterfalls and rugged coastal headlands, the Bay of Plenty has no shortage of trails to discover.
Between shady forest walks, hidden waterfalls and rugged coastal headlands, the Bay of Plenty has no shortage of trails to discover.
PHOTOS TOURISM BAY OF PLENTY
When it comes to walks that showcase the stunning landscapes of our region, the Bay of Plenty is one of New Zealand’s most generous playgrounds. Here’s a hand-picked list of family-friendly walks around Tauranga and the wider Bay of Plenty to feature in your summer adventure itinerary.
Waikareao Estuary Walkway
This flat, easy loop in Tauranga is ideal for families, cyclists or anyone who’d rather amble than ascend. The total loop is about 10km, but there are many entry/ exit points so you can tailor it to 30 minutes, one hour or more. The surfaces include boardwalks, gravel and sealed paths, meandering through mangroves, marsh and birdlife-rich wetlands. Expect to spot local wading birds, and maybe even a fish or two.
Ōtanewainuku Forest and Waterfall Walks
About 25 to 30 minutes south of Tauranga (near Ōropi / Te Puke), Ōtanewainuku Forest offers multiple tracks suited to families. One popular route leads to Whataroa Falls, which includes a pool at the base. Because paths vary in length and difficulty, pick a climb that suits your group.
Ngā Tapuwae o Toi (Footprints of Toi Track)
If your family is up for a longer day out, the Ngā Tapuwae o Toi coastal-forest walk spans 16km and links Whakatāne to Ōhope. The full loop takes five to seven hours, but you can do it in sections (one to three hours) if you don’t want to commit to the full length. It passes through scenic reserves, pōhutukawa stands, seabird colonies and native forest. Dogs are not permitted as it is a kiwi zone. Try walking section by section, or just pick your favourite segment.
Orokawa Bay from Waihī Beach
For a bit more coastal adventure, the Orokawa Bay walk begins at the northern end of Waihī Beach and follows a tide-dependent coastal headland path. It’s roughly 45 minutes one way. The views are spectacular, and you can picnic in the shade of pōhutukawa trees in the bay. Just watch the tides and plan accordingly.
McLaren Falls and Waterfall Track
Just a 10- to 15-minute drive from Tauranga, McLaren Falls Park is a gem. One easy walk leads you through bush to a viewing platform over the falls, short enough for young legs but scenic enough to feel like an adventure. On summer evenings, the glow worms are said to appear along certain tracks. You can also wander around the lakeside paths (the McLaren Lakeside Walkway) for a longer but gentle stroll.
Kaiate Falls
A short drive (30 minutes) from Tauranga brings you to this forest walk through native bush, ending at a tiered waterfall. The track is about 45 minutes return and includes steps, so it’s more suited to families with confident walkers or older children. Swimming is not recommended, but the views and forest experience are worth it.
TOP TIPS
• Mix short and longer walks by combining a base-level stroll with one more adventurous hike on the same day, so everyone has something to enjoy.
• Time it with tides and weather. Coastal walks like Orokawa are best when tides permit and on calm days.
• Bring essentials such as sunblock, hats, snacks, water, insect repellent and wet-weather gear. Some tracks can be muddy after rain.
• Check track status. Some local reserves have track closures for infrastructure upgrades.
• Leave gates as found and carry out your rubbish. These tracks are well loved and cared for by local groups.
• Pace the kids. Use natural “pause points” (streams, lookouts, ponds) as moments to rest or explore.
HEART OF HASTINGS
Eat, drink, stay and play your way through a city that’s become one of Hawke's Bay’s best-kept secrets.
Eat, drink, stay and play your way through a city that’s become one of Hawke's Bay’s best-kept secrets. Here, it’s all about quality. Whether you’re here for a weekend or just a wander, you’ll get a taste of the city’s new confidence everywhere you go.
PLAY
HASTINGS ART GALLERY
Te Whare Toi o Heretaunga — the Hastings Art Gallery — is one of Aotearoa New Zealand’s must-visit creative hubs. This non-collecting gallery showcases a constantly changing line-up of contemporary works from local talents and international visionaries. Visitors can dive into a rich programme of exhibitions, hands-on public events, and inspiring school activities designed to spark curiosity and foster a lifelong love of art. Housed in an eye-catching 1970s building in Hastings’ Civic Square, the gallery sits beside the historic Hastings War Memorial Library, with the striking sculptures of Ngā Pou o Heretaunga welcoming travellers at the entrance.
201 Eastbourne Street East
WAIAROHA — HERETAUNGA WATER DISCOVERY CENTRE
A surprisingly engaging stop, Waiaroha brings the story of water to life through hands-on exhibits, interactive games and clever design. Watch the treatment process through glass panels, pump and spray at outdoor stations, and follow the journey of water from mountains to sea. Designed for families, curious visitors and locals alike, this City Nation Place Global Award winner connects us all.
Corner of Southampton Street East & Hastings Street South
TOITOI ARTS AND EVENTS CENTRE
Offering more than just a stage, Toitoi is a place where creativity thrives and where stories are shared and cultures celebrated. From world-class performances, conferences and grassroots initiatives, Toitoi champions the power of the arts to inspire. Savour a relaxed meal, indulge in wine tasting, grab a morning coffee, or toast the night with a pre-show cocktail. Whether you're attending a show, hosting an event, or simply soaking in the atmosphere, the Toitoi complex invites you to be part of something extraordinary.
TOITOIVENUES.CO.NZ
EAT
FUN BUNS
A small-but-mighty gem in Hastings’ heart, Fun Buns is all about vibrancy and flavour. Think handmade gua baos bursting with fresh fillings, dumplings, satisfying loaded fries and street-food vibes done right. It’s the kind of place you pop into for lunch, stick around post-shopping for a cheeky bite or make a light dinner out of share plates and cocktails. It’s so good you’ll want it on speed dial for those “don’t-feel-like-cooking” nights.
300 Heretaunga Street East
COLAB CAFÉ
Colab Café has quickly become a local favourite for its warm service and creative weekly menu. The cabinet is always tempting. Think pistachio scrolls, coffee-and-cheddar buns, fresh salads, and inventive matchas locals rave about. Cosy and welcoming with sunny outdoor seating, it’s an easy choice for brunch or a midweek pick-me-up.
Farming House Building, 211 Market Street South
RESTAURANT ARI
Hastings’ newest go-to for contemporary dining, Restaurant Ari serves up Mediterranean-inspired fare with a clear focus on local produce. Expect free-range meats, fresh seafood and seasonal ingredients, all delivered with warmth and flair. Ideal for a special night out or gathering with friends.
103 Karamu Road South
SAZIO
If you’re after something a little more grown-up but still relaxed, Sazio is the go-to for handmade pasta and warm hospitality. The menu draws on Italian and Argentinian heritage, with fresh free-range meats and seafood crafted on-site daily. Whether it’s a special occasion or just a stylish night out, this one nails the balance. Date night sorted.
215 Heretaunga Street East
STAY
QUEST HASTINGS
Need a base in Hastings for exploring the region? Quest Hastings offers modern, thoughtfully designed rooms and suites in the heart of the city. The central location puts you within walking distance of cafés, shops, restaurants and all the spots above. Comfortable, convenient and well-set for a longer Hawke’s Bay stay.
304 Eastbourne Street East
BRAVE BREWING CO.
Hawke’s Bay craft-beer fans, look here. Brave Brewing Co. has carved out a stellar reputation in Hastings. This family-run operation pours a solid lineup of beers on tap in a chilled-out taproom, with crowd pleasing food to match. Whether you’re after something hoppy or a little experimental, this place has the energy for an easy-going catch-up.
205 Queen Street East
CELLAR 495
This boutique wine bar and eatery brings serious wine know-how to Hastings in a comfortable space. Led by Michael Henley, the 495th Master of Wine, the bistro-wine bar showcases Hawke’s Bay and international labels alongside sharing plates inspired by local produce.
319 Heretaunga Street East
HASTINGS DISTILLERS
Hastings Distillers are doing clever things in a beautifully-restored Art Deco space. As New Zealand’s f irst certified-organic artisan spirits house, they craft distinctive gins and elegant liqueurs using wild-foraged botanicals, exotic French spices and pure spring water. Their award-winning “East Block 200” gin, made with ten organic botanicals (eight from Hawke’s Bay), picked up Double Gold at the New Zealand Spirit Awards. The tasting room doubles as a casual cocktail stop and bottle-shop, all in one.
231 Heretaunga Street East
KINDRED ROAD
Kindred Road is a homewares and lifestyle boutique that brings together local craft, sustainable design and good coffee under one roof. The stylish interiors and in-house café make it an easy place to linger while browsing seriously cool finds. A beautiful stop for gifts or a little treat — the bagels are a must.
201 Queen Street East
DECIBEL WINES
Located in downtown Hastings, Decibel Wines is run by a winemaker with a rock-band-manager past — yes, really. Born from a love of music and a touch of rebellion, Decibel has carved out a name as Hawke’s Bay’s cool, counter-culture winery. The tasting room is light and unpretentious, pouring small-batch wines that are fine but fun and best shared with good food and great company.
101 Warren Street South