INTO THE WILD

The Hollyford Wilderness Experience offers Liz French a rare chance to explore remote Fiordland in comfort.

PHOTOS LIZ FRENCH + SUPPLIED

Sometimes it takes the eyes of foreigners to make you appreciate your own country. While I was walking (more like striding) along the native foliage canopied track, thinking, “This is a lovely bit of bush, but no more spectacular than I’ve seen on many tramps before,” two American women in our group were in tears of awe at the beauty of it, at greens so vivid they seemed artificially enhanced.

We were on the first day of the three-day Hollyford Wilderness Experience. There were 14 in our group: a fun-loving family of five from Chicago, two gobsmacked girls from Denver, another from Sydney, an acerbic retired medical professor and his quick-witted wife from Nelson, my partner Mark and me from Tauranga, plus our two guides, Jack and Rosie, both in their twenties, both people you would trust your life with.

Lunch above the river broke up the day. The track is mainly flat with one gentle incline over the 168-metre Little Homer Saddle. We had a hell of a time getting to Te Anau the day before, plagued by Air New Zealand cancellations and postponements, and finally arriving, minus bags, after midnight. Luckily, we had the prescience to wear our boots and have all we needed for this trip in our backpacks.

As I was a bit fatigued before I even started, it was a relief to finally arrive at Ka Tuku (Pyke Lodge) and be welcomed by our hosts, Stephane and Caro, who told us this was the first fine day in weeks. As Fiordland gets something like 300 days of rain a year, you do have to be prepared for it. The first day is the longest walk by far — 19.5 kilometres from the Hollyford Road end to the first lodge.

I love a river walk so I was delighted to find that, while we spent a lot of time shrouded in bush, we also had views across the Hollyford River to the Darren Mountains, giving us a good sky quotient.

A couple of dramatic waterfalls and Talk about sophisticated rustic luxury. A comfy room with ensuite, drying room (good when you are only carrying 4kg and one spare pair of knickers), and a big lounge where we enjoyed a pre-dinner platter with as much beer or wine as we wanted, followed by venison for dinner. We were in bed before the lemon tart.

The second day delivered the expected drizzle and an easier and more varied experience. Fortified by a good sleep and eggs benedict for breakfast I revelled in the return walk to Lake Alabaster in all its mystic glory, the greens of surrounding bush glowing even brighter in the rain.

Hidden Falls.

We took a slight detour over the longest swing bridge in Fiordland, which is also the start of the Demon Trail, suitable for highly experienced trampers only, and which the Hollyford Wilderness Experience avoids by scooting us past in a jetboat.

The hour-long trip followed the river into Lake McKerrow via a stop at Jamestown, the site of a failed West Coast settlement. You feel pathetic in your high-tech gear when you hear the horrendous hardships of the pioneers, and the sheer tenacity of people like Davey Gunn, who farmed in the valley, routinely walking 50kms a day, until he drowned there in 1955.

The day wasn’t over yet. We were jet boated across the river from the lodge to traverse the wild, wet and deserted coastline of Martins Bay. We had walked about 15kms that day so I was well ready to relax in the hot tubs across the lawn from rooms even lovelier than the previous night’s.

Sandflies are an issue on the coast and, as I had refused a funereal black net to cover my head, I resorted to repellent and arm flapping.

Rare bright blue skies greeted us the next day as we jetted up the river and walked back through the soaring trees of ancient podocarp forest. One giant Rimu had such a girth it took seven people to hug it.

Liz French on the wild west coast.

You can’t get a much better finale to a trip than a thrilling helicopter flight along rugged coastline and into dramatic Milford Sound, with the bonus of perfect visibility. A slightly intrepid wander through bush led to a clearing with a safari tent where a long table was set up for a lunch of soup and delicious salads. I wondered how they did this until I discovered a four-wheel drive track to our second night’s accommodation, Waitai (Martins Bay) Lodge.

After the coach ride back to Te Anau on one of the country’s most scenic roads, we farewelled our new friends and I promised them a copy of my story in UNO.

Yes, it was expensive (around $4,000 per person), but priceless as an unforgettable experience.

MELBOURNE IN MOTION

Melbourne is a city of all things to all people, yet it’s as individual as the people who inhabit it. And it’s a place that has Jo Ferris captivated.

I last visited Melbourne 28 years ago, to see The Three Tenors on the MCG’s hallowed grounds. Previous trips include tennis at the Australian Open and catching up with ex-pats in the suburbs. After so long, thoughts of reviving memories certainly whet the appetite.

Keith Urban rocking his guitar riffs was the reason for this trip. However, my foodie friend and I were keen to tempt our taste buds as well — all in just five days.

Given New Zealand’s entire population f its in this eclectic city, exploring everything is impossible. Melbourne is vast. It stops a nation every year for the Melbourne Cup. It’s home of Aussie rules footie and arguably Australia’s soul of culture and cuisine.

A city of immense diversity, it is the 10th largest immigrant population among world metropolitan areas, with around 100 different ethnicities. From Greek to Arabic, Vietnamese to Mandarin, strolling Melbourne’s inner sanctum is akin to mingling amid melodious bird chatter.

Downtown truly buzzes. And, amazingly, everyone is friendly. Helpful too, when you need help with trams.

DO

Melbourne’s free tram system has to be one of its best attractions. While free only within the city centre, routes include all that makes Melbourne unique. Modern trams have replaced Melbourne’s iconic vehicles of the past. However, one trip remains for these distinctive trundlers, as synonymous with Melbourne’s history as Flinders Rail Station.

Route 35 starts near this station — a scenic circuit that departs every 12 minutes, passing notable landmarks and an audio commentary enhancing the experience. Enjoy the free journey as a complete tour, or hop on and off to explore Melbourne’s wider city attractions.

Having also paid for a day ticket on either trams or trains, we asked a friendly copper the best place to go. St Kilda was the instant response. More specifically, Acland Street, last cab on the rank — and a great tip.

Acland Street is home to artisans and foodies. Pavements are festooned with fashion racks; shop windows are adorned with patisseries that put kilos on just looking at them. Wisely avoiding those, we plumped for a pub lunch, before the return trip, past Lunar Park, Docklands and historic landmarks.

QUEEN VICTORIA MARKET

You could spend a week in Queen Victoria Market and probably still not explore everything. The indoor food hall is a banquet of extraordinary proportions. The chatter and banter, smells and samples have to be seen to be believed. This, even before you wander into the craft market and aisles of treasures, clothing and jewellery. And that’s just during the day. Throughout the seasons, night markets take control each Wednesday. Luckily, we caught the last of the winter series. A smorgasbord of international foodie flavours and fashion — nirvana on steroids!

EAT

Melbourne is legendary for its market fare and laneway eateries. With only days to absorb it, our focus was downtown. A stone’s-throw from Flinders Station, Degraves Street is a city favourite. Flanked by restaurants, umbrella seating dominating the lane’s no-vehicle thoroughfare, staff on sidewalks vie for custom; blackboard specials at their side and menu in hand. Lygon Street — famously known as ‘Little Italy’ — is Melbourne’s birthplace of café culture.

After a free tram leg from the city centre, it’s an easy walk to this precinct, past the historic Melbourne Gaol, if you want a sideline attraction. Good to know: Restaurants only come alive as day turns towards evening.

Arriving mid-afternoon, we opted for a sweet treat. Tiramisu — shared, thanks to its gargantuan serving for one!

STAY

Choosing where to stay boils down to what you want to do and how long you have. Being closest to the action was a priority — and affordability. Mercure Melbourne Southbank fitted the bill nicely.

Sitting opposite Flinders Station on the other side of the Yarra River, it was both central and affordable, taxis conveniently outside the front door. To the tennis centre for Keith Urban’s concert, it was around AU$45; and from AU$85 to AU$100 one way to the airport. With twin rooms costing between AU$250 and AU$285, there’s a restaurant if you want. Obviously, we avoided it. This is Melbourne, after all.

Just a five-minute walk away is the Casino by the Yarra River and riverboat restaurants for a true tourist experience, as well as eateries galore within cooee.

As a short hop across the ditch, you can’t beat Melbourne’s inner-city vibe. Its high-rise architecture is mesmerising — sexy with its glistening rainbow of glass-wall artistry; and simply dazzling at night.

After a week basking in it and memories renewed, I’m not waiting another 28 years to return.

HISTORIC, LEGENDARY, UNMISTAKABLE

• Wominjeka (welcome) – acknowledges Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung and Bunurong/Boon Wurrung, the First Peoples of Narrm (Melbourne).

• Flinders Street Station is Australia’s oldest train station, and busiest in the southern hemisphere.

• Free inner-city transport includes the historic W-class trams on Route 35. This City Circle tram passes Melbourne Aquarium, Docklands, Federation Square, Parliament House and St Paul’s Cathedral, among other landmarks.

• Myki is a reusable travel card and ticket for trains, trams and buses. Buy and top up at numerous shops, including 7-Eleven stores.

• CBD landmarks include Yarra River, river boats and walkways, MCG, Melbourne Park sports entertainment precinct, Federation Square, Parliament House, Crown Casino, Arts Centre, Melbourne Sky Deck, Old Melbourne Gaol, Docklands, China Town, among others.

• Queen Victoria Market dates back 140 years; with its historic Meat and Fish Hall, fresh produce, arts and crafts. Seasonal night markets run on Wednesdays, while markets elsewhere have their own distinctive vibe.

• Destination shopping includes Myers, David Jones, Collins Street boutiques, Emporium Melbourne and Melbourne Central centre.

POLES APART

Penguins or polar bears? Are Antarctica and the Arctic similar or poles apart? Sarah Porter from Wild Earth Travel, supplier to YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem, sailed as a guest on the French ship, Ponant Le Commandant Charcot.

Understanding the difference between these two regions at the opposite ends of the globe starts with simple geography. Antarctica is a frozen continent surrounded by ocean; the Arctic is frozen sea surrounded by land.

The Arctic region extends over Canada, Alaska, Greenland, Russia, Norway and Iceland, which are all homes to native communities. Antarctica does not belong to any country and has many scientific bases, but no permanent inhabitants.

WILDLIFE

Wildlife is one of the biggest differences between the polar regions. My first view of Antarctic wildlife on South Shetland Island was a shoreline covered in penguins and seals, whales not far off land. Human contact is limited in the Antarctic which makes the animals fearless and inquisitive and penguins will likely come and inspect your boots.

The word Arctic is derived from the Greek ‘arktos’ meaning’ bear’, and one of the main reasons to visit the Arctic is to see the polar bear. Arctic foxes, reindeer, walrus, musk ox, seals and whales are also found in the north, as well as birdlife.

I visited the Arctic on a journey to East Greenland on the world’s only luxury ice breaker, Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot, at the beginning of the season. We came across a whale carcass wedged between two ice sheets, a natural buffet attracting an astounding 68 polar bears, a first even for our captain and our Inuit ‘polar bear spotters’.

PEOPLE

The six countries of the Arctic region create diversity in culture, language and customs, though sharing traditional livelihoods like f ishing and hunting. As our Greenlandic guides kept watch for polar bears, I learnt what it is like to live in in complete darkness for much of the year and how their community of Ittoqqortoormiit (the most remote in the world) is only accessible by helicopter for nine months due to frozen sea ice.

On the Le Soleal in Antarctica I enjoyed chats with people posted at the bases and stations over the summer season, but there are no ‘locals’ in Antarctica. On both voyages historians within the ship’s expedition teams shared stories and insights into the early explorers, from Erik the Red in Greenland to Scott, Shackleton and other Antarctic explorers.

ICE

Ice became a topic of surprise and delight as I learnt how different it is in each region and how many forms it takes — fast ice, first-year ice, brash ice, pack ice and, of course, ice bergs (to name a few!). Sea ice in the Arctic freezes in winter and melts during summer. Antarctica is not constrained by landmasses so sea ice spreads over a much larger area. Antarctic glaciers are much bigger than those of the Arctic, the Arctic icebergs more jagged in shape.

SEASONS

You can only travel to Antarctica in summer (November – March), with the ice more pristine and the penguins courting early in the season. In February and March you see penguin chicks and March is best for whale watching. The Arctic summer is peak tourist season with longer days (the midnight sun) and milder temperatures for outdoor activities.

Many visit in winter to see the northern lights. Which wins? I loved both for the sense of vastness and unexpected wildlife encounters, the deafening silence and magical atmosphere. Seeing 68 bears made the Arctic my favourite voyage, however Antarctica would be my favourite destination. I’d return to both in a heartbeat for I have only experienced the very tip of the iceberg.

YOUTRAVELBETHLEHEM.CO.NZ

WALK THIS WAY

Between shady forest walks, hidden waterfalls and rugged coastal headlands, the Bay of Plenty has no shortage of trails to discover.

PHOTOS TOURISM BAY OF PLENTY

When it comes to walks that showcase the stunning landscapes of our region, the Bay of Plenty is one of New Zealand’s most generous playgrounds. Here’s a hand-picked list of family-friendly walks around Tauranga and the wider Bay of Plenty to feature in your summer adventure itinerary.

Waikareao Estuary Walkway

This flat, easy loop in Tauranga is ideal for families, cyclists or anyone who’d rather amble than ascend. The total loop is about 10km, but there are many entry/ exit points so you can tailor it to 30 minutes, one hour or more. The surfaces include boardwalks, gravel and sealed paths, meandering through mangroves, marsh and birdlife-rich wetlands. Expect to spot local wading birds, and maybe even a fish or two.

Mauao / Mount Maunganui Base Track

This is a classic for a reason. The Te Ara Tutanga (base track) loops around Mauao in a mostly flat 3.4km circuit, taking roughly 40 to 50 minutes. It’s wide, well formed and even suitable for pushchairs. Start from either the Pilot Bay side or Main Beach side. As you stroll, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views across Tauranga harbour, Matakana Island and the coastline beyond. If your crew is feeling confident, you can mix in a climb to the summit (Te Tihi o Mauao, 232 m), which is steeper and more challenging. But even “just” doing the base is a perfect, scenic outing for all ages.

Ōtanewainuku Forest and Waterfall Walks

About 25 to 30 minutes south of Tauranga (near Ōropi / Te Puke), Ōtanewainuku Forest offers multiple tracks suited to families. One popular route leads to Whataroa Falls, which includes a pool at the base. Because paths vary in length and difficulty, pick a climb that suits your group.

Ngā Tapuwae o Toi (Footprints of Toi Track)

If your family is up for a longer day out, the Ngā Tapuwae o Toi coastal-forest walk spans 16km and links Whakatāne to Ōhope. The full loop takes five to seven hours, but you can do it in sections (one to three hours) if you don’t want to commit to the full length. It passes through scenic reserves, pōhutukawa stands, seabird colonies and native forest. Dogs are not permitted as it is a kiwi zone. Try walking section by section, or just pick your favourite segment.

Orokawa Bay from Waihī Beach

For a bit more coastal adventure, the Orokawa Bay walk begins at the northern end of Waihī Beach and follows a tide-dependent coastal headland path. It’s roughly 45 minutes one way. The views are spectacular, and you can picnic in the shade of pōhutukawa trees in the bay. Just watch the tides and plan accordingly.

McLaren Falls and Waterfall Track

Just a 10- to 15-minute drive from Tauranga, McLaren Falls Park is a gem. One easy walk leads you through bush to a viewing platform over the falls, short enough for young legs but scenic enough to feel like an adventure. On summer evenings, the glow worms are said to appear along certain tracks. You can also wander around the lakeside paths (the McLaren Lakeside Walkway) for a longer but gentle stroll.

Kaiate Falls

A short drive (30 minutes) from Tauranga brings you to this forest walk through native bush, ending at a tiered waterfall. The track is about 45 minutes return and includes steps, so it’s more suited to families with confident walkers or older children. Swimming is not recommended, but the views and forest experience are worth it.

TOP TIPS

• Mix short and longer walks by combining a base-level stroll (like Mauao or Waikareao) with one more adventurous hike on the same day, so everyone has something to enjoy.

• Time it with tides and weather. Coastal walks like Orokawa are best when tides permit and on calm days.

• Bring essentials such as sunblock, hats, snacks, water, insect repellent and wet-weather gear. Some tracks can be muddy after rain.

• Check track status. Some local reserves have track closures for infrastructure upgrades.

• Leave gates as found and carry out your rubbish. These tracks are well loved and cared for by local groups.

• Pace the kids. Use natural “pause points” (streams, lookouts, ponds) as moments to rest or explore.

HEART OF HASTINGS

Eat, drink, stay and play your way through a city that’s become one of Hawke's Bay’s best-kept secrets. Here, it’s all about quality. Whether you’re here for a weekend or just a wander, you’ll get a taste of the city’s new confidence everywhere you go.

PLAY

HASTINGS ART GALLERY

Te Whare Toi o Heretaunga — the Hastings Art Gallery — is one of Aotearoa New Zealand’s must-visit creative hubs. This non-collecting gallery showcases a constantly changing line-up of contemporary works from local talents and international visionaries. Visitors can dive into a rich programme of exhibitions, hands-on public events, and inspiring school activities designed to spark curiosity and foster a lifelong love of art. Housed in an eye-catching 1970s building in Hastings’ Civic Square, the gallery sits beside the historic Hastings War Memorial Library, with the striking sculptures of Ngā Pou o Heretaunga welcoming travellers at the entrance.

201 Eastbourne Street East

WAIAROHA — HERETAUNGA WATER DISCOVERY CENTRE

A surprisingly engaging stop, Waiaroha brings the story of water to life through hands-on exhibits, interactive games and clever design. Watch the treatment process through glass panels, pump and spray at outdoor stations, and follow the journey of water from mountains to sea. Designed for families, curious visitors and locals alike, this City Nation Place Global Award winner connects us all.

Corner of Southampton Street East & Hastings Street South

TOITOI ARTS AND EVENTS CENTRE

Offering more than just a stage, Toitoi is a place where creativity thrives and where stories are shared and cultures celebrated. From world-class performances, conferences and grassroots initiatives, Toitoi champions the power of the arts to inspire. Savour a relaxed meal, indulge in wine tasting, grab a morning coffee, or toast the night with a pre-show cocktail. Whether you're attending a show, hosting an event, or simply soaking in the atmosphere, the Toitoi complex invites you to be part of something extraordinary.

TOITOIVENUES.CO.NZ

EAT

FUN BUNS

A small-but-mighty gem in Hastings’ heart, Fun Buns is all about vibrancy and flavour. Think handmade gua baos bursting with fresh fillings, dumplings, satisfying loaded fries and street-food vibes done right. It’s the kind of place you pop into for lunch, stick around post-shopping for a cheeky bite or make a light dinner out of share plates and cocktails. It’s so good you’ll want it on speed dial for those “don’t-feel-like-cooking” nights.

300 Heretaunga Street East

COLAB CAFÉ

Colab Café has quickly become a local favourite for its warm service and creative weekly menu. The cabinet is always tempting. Think pistachio scrolls, coffee-and-cheddar buns, fresh salads, and inventive matchas locals rave about. Cosy and welcoming with sunny outdoor seating, it’s an easy choice for brunch or a midweek pick-me-up.

Farming House Building, 211 Market Street South

RESTAURANT ARI

Hastings’ newest go-to for contemporary dining, Restaurant Ari serves up Mediterranean-inspired fare with a clear focus on local produce. Expect free-range meats, fresh seafood and seasonal ingredients, all delivered with warmth and flair. Ideal for a special night out or gathering with friends.

103 Karamu Road South

SAZIO

If you’re after something a little more grown-up but still relaxed, Sazio is the go-to for handmade pasta and warm hospitality. The menu draws on Italian and Argentinian heritage, with fresh free-range meats and seafood crafted on-site daily. Whether it’s a special occasion or just a stylish night out, this one nails the balance. Date night sorted.

215 Heretaunga Street East

STAY

QUEST HASTINGS

Need a base in Hastings for exploring the region? Quest Hastings offers modern, thoughtfully designed rooms and suites in the heart of the city. The central location puts you within walking distance of cafés, shops, restaurants and all the spots above. Comfortable, convenient and well-set for a longer Hawke’s Bay stay.

304 Eastbourne Street East

BRAVE BREWING CO.

Hawke’s Bay craft-beer fans, look here. Brave Brewing Co. has carved out a stellar reputation in Hastings. This family-run operation pours a solid lineup of beers on tap in a chilled-out taproom, with crowd pleasing food to match. Whether you’re after something hoppy or a little experimental, this place has the energy for an easy-going catch-up.

205 Queen Street East

CELLAR 495

This boutique wine bar and eatery brings serious wine know-how to Hastings in a comfortable space. Led by Michael Henley, the 495th Master of Wine, the bistro-wine bar showcases Hawke’s Bay and international labels alongside sharing plates inspired by local produce.

319 Heretaunga Street East

HASTINGS DISTILLERS

Hastings Distillers are doing clever things in a beautifully-restored Art Deco space. As New Zealand’s f irst certified-organic artisan spirits house, they craft distinctive gins and elegant liqueurs using wild-foraged botanicals, exotic French spices and pure spring water. Their award-winning “East Block 200” gin, made with ten organic botanicals (eight from Hawke’s Bay), picked up Double Gold at the New Zealand Spirit Awards. The tasting room doubles as a casual cocktail stop and bottle-shop, all in one.

231 Heretaunga Street East

KINDRED ROAD

Kindred Road is a homewares and lifestyle boutique that brings together local craft, sustainable design and good coffee under one roof. The stylish interiors and in-house café make it an easy place to linger while browsing seriously cool finds. A beautiful stop for gifts or a little treat — the bagels are a must.

201 Queen Street East

DECIBEL WINES

Located in downtown Hastings, Decibel Wines is run by a winemaker with a rock-band-manager past — yes, really. Born from a love of music and a touch of rebellion, Decibel has carved out a name as Hawke’s Bay’s cool, counter-culture winery. The tasting room is light and unpretentious, pouring small-batch wines that are fine but fun and best shared with good food and great company.

101 Warren Street South

NAPIER UNCOVERED

Beachside strolls, great eats, creative corners and cool local finds. Napier’s got character in spades and plenty to explore. Here’s where to shop, eat, drink and wander while you’re in town.

SHOP

TENNYSON GALLERY

Tennyson Gallery is owner Lizzie’s celebration of New Zealand creativity. This bright, welcoming space is filled with art that’s as diverse as it is beautiful. Expect everything from bold paintings and fine-art prints to glasswork, sculpture and contemporary jewellery. It’s the perfect spot for anyone who loves original, homegrown talent.

Cnr Tennyson & Hastings Streets

BROCANTE

Andrea’s gorgeous store is filled with unexpected and utterly seductive treasures. It’s an eclectic blend of exclusive homewares, vintage design, jewellery, scarves, clothing and body products. If you love a little French flair, then Brocante is the place for you. And don’t miss the impressive 1930s stained-glass ceiling dome.

31 Tennyson Street

BOYD-DUNLOP GALLERY

Richard and Elise’s gallery is a cornerstone of the city’s art scene, showcasing a wide selection of contemporary and fine art prints across two stunning levels. Open daily and featuring regular exhibitions from leading New Zealand artists, it’s always worth the visit.

4 Hastings Street

VINCI'S PIZZA

Vincent has brought a vibrant street side vibe to life while renovating indoors. Enjoy hand-stretched sourdough pizza by the slice or as an 18-inch whole pie. Grab a quick bite or settle in with friends and family. With a great range of independent craft beers, wine on tap and house-batch cocktails, every day is a pizza day. Open seven days from 11 am. Dine in or take out.

29A Hastings Street

HUNGER MONGER

Fraser and Agnieszka’s menu is a true celebration of the sea. Packed with as much variety as they can find, a few favourites remain, while most dishes ebb and flow with the seasons. Sample a range of Snacks and Smalls, or choose from a select few mains. It’s a strictly seafood affair in a modern, retro restaurant by the sea, with no meat in sight.

29 Marine Parade

DAJKO’S KILIM CAFÉ

Once known as Kilim Café, this long-time favourite has grown into something new. The Balkan-style grill celebrates the flavours of Eastern Europe while holding onto its Turkish roots. Chef-owner Yusuf Dogru, who grew up in Istanbul and has called Hawke’s Bay home for years, brings his culture to life through dishes like smoky cevapi, juicy kebabs and richly layered iskenders. As one of the few BYO spots in town, it’s a great place to catch up with friends over a relaxed meal in the sunny courtyard.

193 Hastings Street

DRINK

ROGUE HOP SPEAKEASY

This is hospo legend Jeremy Bayliss’s latest addition, and it’s become an institution for locals and visitors alike. A stylish neighbourhood hangout with an upstairs lounge, this is the perfect spot for a laugh over a tipple. Exclusive New Zealand craft beer, wine and spirits, plus handmade dumplings and burgers. Available for private functions and events.

113 Hastings Street

MARKET ST

In the heart of the CBD, Market St is a modern city bar with a fun, local vibe. Owners Steve and Sarah have turned the old Cri into a buzzing little hangout where the food’s fresh, the drinks flow and nothing feels fussy. The menu changes with the seasons, and weekly specials like Burger & Brew Tuesdays and Dollar Dumpling Thursdays keep things playful. With daily Happy Hour and $12 cocktails on Saturdays, it’s the kind of place that makes any excuse a good one to drop in.

8 Market Street

GOLDIE’S

Goldie’s is the city’s newest go-to for easy, honest, seriously delicious food in a casual but vibrant setting. Owners Grant and Alice have created a little gem where you can bring the kids, meet friends or just drop in for something good to eat. The menu leans toward classic favourites infused with fresh f lavours. Add in craft beers, great coffee and plenty of buzz, and it’s easy to see why Goldie’s is quickly finding its crowd.

82 Dalton Street

PLAY/DO

BLUFF HILL WALKS

Get your step count up with the city’s scenic hill walks right from the CBD. Climb Bluff Hill Lookout for sweeping harbour views, wander the historic streets of Napier Hill past Art Deco homes or tackle the zigzag tracks linking the city to leafy reserves. Every route rewards you with breathtaking views across the coast and city.

MTG HAWKE’S BAY

In the centre of the city, MTG Hawke’s Bay combines museum, theatre and gallery spaces in a beautifully restored heritage building. Exhibitions change often, blending art, history and local stories — from the 1931 earthquake to contemporary culture. With kids’ activities, theatre events and a museum shop, there’s something here for everyone. Open daily 9.30 am–5 pm. Free entry.

1 Tennyson Street

MARINE PARADE ACTIVITIES

Along the coast, Marine Parade offers one of the loveliest ways to feel the sea breeze — wide paths for walking, gardens to pause in and palm trees that line the Parade. Home to the Pania of the Reef statue, the Sunken Gardens and Ocean Spa, it’s popular with families, cyclists and anyone keen to sit and take in the view.

BAY TO BAY

Hayley Barnett discovers the perfect itinerary for a weekend getaway in another glorious Bay, the delightfully decadent Hawke’s Bay region.

Smith & Sheth

As the end of the year began hurtling towards us at breakneck speed, my husband and I decided an indulgent weekend escape from the chaos was just what we needed. For a couple of foodies and fairly inexperienced winos, Hawke’s Bay proved the place to unwind and reconnect.

About four hours drive from the Bay of Plenty, Hawke’s Bay is made up of three main centres – Havelock North, Napier and Hastings. Though there are excellent taxi and Uber services, we opted to drive, enjoying the freedom to move at our own pace, while still using taxis and bikes between wineries.

Havelock North was our first stop, and our base for the night. This charming town has an unexpectedly abundant array of beautiful clothing boutiques, cafes and gift stores that could easily consume hours of wandering. But we weren’t here to shop. We were here for the wine, and focus was key.

Arriving at Smith & Sheth, a wine lounge (or wine library) and cellar door, we immediately realised the bar was set high. We were welcomed by Sean, head sommelier, who has worked alongside Steve Smith for the past decade. Steve has a formidable reputation, establishing Craggy Range in Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough, and achieving the highly-coveted Master of Wine in under two years, a process that usually takes much longer. When he met Brian Sheth, an investor, wildlife conservationist and wine lover from Austin, Texas, they created Cru, an exceptional range of wines that we were lucky to sample inside what could only be described as a wine cinema. Here, we learned the differences between blends and the production process. The experience is thoughtfully curated and offers an intimate and fresh way to explore wine, without leaving town.

Porters Boutique Hotel & Conference Centre

Located within the same building as Smith & Sheth’s wine lounge, Porters Boutique Hotel & Conference Centre is elegant, understated and perfectly situated for those wanting to immerse themselves in Havelock North. Every detail, from soft lighting to attentive service, made us feel cocooned from the world, even though we were just steps away from boutique cafes, artisan stores and wine bars. We could have spent hours in our spacious suite, but a date with one of the region’s premiere wine festivals awaited in neighbouring Hastings.

Taste Hastings

Just a 10-minute drive from Havelock North, Hastings recently earned a reputation for sophistication. Modern bars, cafes, restaurants and shops have transformed it into a lively hub. That evening, we made our way through stalls from winemakers across Hawke’s Bay at Taste Hastings and learned all about the region’s wine culture, chatting with stall holders and dancing to live bands and DJs on every corner. It was a great way to get a feel for the craftsmanship and amazing community vibe. From there, a taxi whisked us to one of the region’s most iconic wineries for a very different experience.

The Loft at Craggy Range

Our visit to Craggy Range did not disappoint. As the sun set, Te Mata Valley glowed with a magical, hazy light across the vines. We were there to try The Loft, a new dining experience above the main restaurant. Having made our way up the winding staircase, we were greeted by low lighting and an intimate setting. Tables were arranged in a semi-circle in front of the chefs and wood-fired oven. From the first bite to the last, the experience was flawless. Chef Casey McDonald takes diners on a culinary journey reflecting the dishes he loves to cook at home. The ‘Sprung’ spring menu celebrated seasonal ingredients with highlights including crayfish croissants and baked camembert.

The next morning, we discovered a delightful gem just minutes from the hotel. This family run cafe was filled to the brim with diners, but we managed to secure a table under a portrait of Maina, matriarch and inspiration behind the kitchen. The coffee was expertly crafted, complemented by poached eggs atop sourdough with avocado pea smash, feta, beetroot pur.e and hazelnut dukkha. Though satisfying, I wondered if it was the best prelude to a strenuous pilates reformer class.

Alma Studio

I needn’t have worried. Alma Studio offered a surprisingly transformative start to the day. While my husband opted for an extended infrared sauna session, I tackled my first pilates reformer class. Instructor and owner Danielle ensured the exercises were accessible, and each movement left me feeling lengthened and invigorated, a perfect counterbalance to our indulgent culinary adventures. Alma’s approach blends mindfulness, breath, strength and awareness, and put us in a great headspace to explore more of Hawke’s Bay.

Energised, we headed to Napier to hire e-bikes at Takaro Trails in Ahuriri. The route towards Taradale via Bayview promised stunning scenery. The path traces the harbour and wetlands, which made it feel strangely relaxing and adventurous at the same time. Informative signs along the way highlighted local wildlife, and the views were nothing short of breathtaking. When we realised we were late for lunch we simply turned it up a notch and “cycled” along the track with gusto.

Church Road Winery

Arriving at one of Hawke's Bay's most awarded wineries, Church Road, it was clear we were in for a treat. Despite setting up for a wedding, staff accommodated us with a wine tasting. Sampling four wines from the prestigious TOM range, named after Hawke’s Bay wine pioneer Tom McDonald, we were guided through the complex flavour profiles by a knowledgeable sommelier. The experience was as much a history lesson as it was a tasting.

The National Gin Distillery

Before long, it was time to jump on a Takaro Trails shuttle back to Napier, where our indulgence continued at The National Gin Distillery. Housed in a restored art deco building, the distillery is still filled with memorabilia from its days as the National Tobacco Company, providing a very fun and eclectic tour for visitors. At the bar, gin guru Ginny (yes, that’s her real name) and co-owner/distiller Blair guided us through botanicals, distillation techniques and flavour profiles. Together, the pair balance creativity with local charm.

Art Deco Masonic Hotel

After hours of trying the many flavours Blair had concocted over the years, we headed off to our next accommodation. Tonight we were staying at the Art Deco Masonic Hotel in Napier. Entering the building was like stepping into a time machine. The iconic architecture, geometric lines and period detailing immediately set a tone of sophistication. Our Anna Pavlova suite, named after the celebrated dancer who stayed here in 1926, offered a shared balcony perfect for people-watching.

Mister D

The stay was an experience in itself, but our hunger forced us back out the door. Just a short walk away, Mister D bistro turned out to the perfect choice for dinner. Combining music, wine and food, the bistro describes itself as “a little bit country and a little bit rock ‘n’ roll”, but it’s also a lot about flavour. Each plate showcased seasonal ingredients and inventive pairings, and highlights included duck risotto, baked cheesecake and the signature injectable donuts.

Baked Cafe

The next day we emerged bleary-eyed and on the hunt for something sweet to take the edge off. Baked Cafe, housed in the old Central Fire Station, offered just what we were looking for. The aroma of freshly baked bread and pastries promised simple pleasures executed perfectly. We shared a ham and mortadella pastry and a hazelnut-chocolate croissant, accompanied by impeccably balanced flat whites. We tucked in and fueled up before we took off for our next activity.

The best way to explore Napier is by vintage car, so we headed across the road to the Art Deco Centre. Our driver, in period attire, transported us through the 1930s, narrating the story of the devastating earthquake and the town’s rapid reconstruction.

As we cruised past pastel facades, waving to curious passers-by, Napier's glamour was well and truly on show and we were wholly swept up in its charm.

We were then dropped at Roam Cafe, which is tucked inside one of the Six Sisters buildings and offers a relaxed lunch with views of the water. The Nashville Hot Chicken burger was a hangover-curing triumph and was balanced with a healthy vegan bowl — equally delicious.

Ocean Spa

Our journey concluded at Ocean Spa, perched on the waterfront. With three large pools and two spas overlooking the ocean, we spent the afternoon alternating cool dips with hot soaks, leaving us refreshed and renewed — a perfect bookend to our Hawke’s Bay adventure.

Seoul searching: A world within

South Korea may not be on every traveller’s radar in Asia but as Jamie Troughton found, beneath the skyscrapers and beyond the gates lies a capital that keeps revealing more, one encounter at a time.

WORDS JAMIE TROUGHTON

It was only on the fourth day in Seoul, when we climbed 270m to the peak of Namsan Park, that we fully understood how insignificant our explorations had been.

Gazing through the haze on another warm autumn morning was a chance to retrace our steps. And there had been plenty of them; 28,000 Garmin-tracked perambulations through the intoxicating South Korean capital on the second day alone.

But our exertions, from what we could see from the summit, appeared pitiful. The ethereal Gyeongbokgung Palace, a 7,700-room 14th-century estate, appeared tiny amidst the office buildings and parks. The 18km Seoul City Wall, encompassing the old city centre and featuring four colossal main gates, seemed to weave a small and delicate thread over the hilly metropolitan terrain.

From our vantage point, everywhere we looked was teeming with city; 360 degrees of skyscrapered, multilayered population. The bit we̓d ‘conquered̓ occupied a couple of degrees of view. We’d daintily dipped a toe into the teeming city waters of Seoul. But what a dip it was.

Tastes, sights, smells, feels, textures and sensations - much about Seoul is like an ADHD delight; it's a symphony of over-stimulation.

We based ourselves in the Jung District, the smallest (less than 10km2) and least populous of Seoul’s 25 districts, but still with the population of Tauranga. Our first meal set the tone — we crossed the road from our hotel, straight into the sprawling Namdaemun Market, which has been operating continuously since 1414, and promptly got lost.

Twisting and turning from street into laneway, from laneway into alleyway, then from alleyway into impossibly crowded, narrow corridors of colour and aroma; restaurant, kitchen and path all blended into one.

We ate a medley of fried fish with gusto, crunching small bones and experiencing for the first time the culinary magnificence of banchan — small side dishes served with most Korean cuisine. From ever-present kimchi (fermented and spiced cabbage), namul (vegetables seasoned with sesame oil, garlic and chilli), danmuji (pickled radish) and gyeran-mari (rolled omelette served in slices), every mouthful was both wildly exotic and perfectly matched.

We dined on delicious Korean BBQ, and on Chimaek, probably one of Korea’s most famous culinary exports of recent years, combining fried chicken (chikin) and beer (maekju). It may have been all the walking but both went down unerringly easily.

The layers of food matched the city too. October was still hot and humid but within six weeks of our visit, temperatures had plummeted from 50°C to –19°C.

Such a wide array of temperatures needs a clever cityscape, and so much of our meanderings were done in three dimensions — vast underground shopping plazas spreading beneath, then spiralling up into the low clouds.

And amidst the concrete and steel are remarkable areas of tranquillity. A large untamed field of wildflowers, sandwiched between two busy avenues, provided an unexpected highlight when apparent masses of bumblebees turned out instead to be hummingbird hawk-moths.

Walking sections of the Seoul City Wall also dipped in and out of serene, stylish neighbourhoods, through parks and erupted into glorious city vistas.

The layered approach is evident in the culture too. Korea, both North and South, is a peninsula seemingly forever being conquered and collected by two neighbouring imperialists, China and Japan.

And while those two nations infuse much of Korean culture, the endemic traditions are rich and vibrant in their own right. Having fought hard, firstly for independence, then for democracy, South Koreans gather, celebrate and protest frequently and spontaneously.

Old news-gathering instincts kicked in hard on a Saturday morning in Seoul, when we rounded a corner to find masses of marchers shouting, trumpeting and waving banners.

Thousands upon thousands of police disembarked from buses, bedecked in riot gear, while spotters lined windows in high buildings as things seemingly built to a crescendo.

A helpful guide at a neighbourhood information kiosk chuckled at our concerns. “It happens every Saturday,” she explained. “Most weekends, the police outnumber the protestors.”

Ironically, mere weeks after our visit, President Yoon Suk Yeol was suspended after trying to impose martial law. Those same protestors were out again in force, this time in earnest, demanding they retain their right to protest and have a voice in their nation.

Meanwhile, we turned another corner during our trip, walked a block and stumbled into the midst of a Joseon dynasty celebration, where a dazzling wedge of performers twirled in traditional costumes, surreptitiously checking coiffures on latest Samsungs.

People who dress in period costume are afforded free entry into the numerous palaces and cultural sites throughout Seoul — it’s a clever way to both promote and immerse tourists and locals alike in tradition.

Those layers continue in architecture and ambience. Sejong-daero, the street that runs through part of downtown Seoul, has Gyeongbokgung Palace at one end and walls of new shimmering office steel at the other. A statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, who saved the country from the brink of collapse during the Japanese invasion of 1592, stands proudly on a plinth, astride both the ancient and the modern worlds.

In the famous Seoul street markets, meanwhile, this translates into a fusion of flavours.

Hangover soup, roast lobster with cheese, an array of spectacular custard-based pastries and deboned chicken claws fit seamlessly next to Zespri kiwifruit and dragon fruit smoothies.

We wandered, for hours, every side street an adventure, every staircase a portal.

Step counts bloomed, as the layers upon layers of a remarkable city unfurled before our dazed eyes.

As nature intended

Escape the city buzz and immerse yourself in wild beauty at Wellington’s lush, predator-free haven.

WORDS LIZ FRENCH | PHOTOS LUCY BROAD, SCOTT LANGDALE + SUPPLIED

Wellington is a thriving metropolis, seat of government and a vibrant capital of corporations, culture and coffee. In complete contrast it also boasts the world’s first fully fenced urban ecosanctuary.

You would not expect to find 225 hectares (more than 500 acres) of regenerating forest and rare birdlife within a few minutes’ drive of Wellington’s CBD. This is Zealandia Te Māra a Tāne (The Garden of Tāne Māhuta, the Māori god of the forest).

The idea of protecting Wellington’s biodiversity began in the 1990s with a plan to manage the preservation of the national assets of the city. Its theme, “Bring the Birds Back to Wellington”, was the inspiration for Zealandia, a sanctuary that is doing exactly that.

The decommissioning of the Karori reservoir allowed this ambitious project to begin in the valley it occupied. The reservoir, with its historic dam crossing, is now an attractive feature of Zealandia. Bringing back the birds and other New Zealand native and endemic species required eradicating and preventing entry by the human introduced mammalian predators that have decimated our native flora and fauna over hundreds of years. To restore a valley to its pre-human state does not happen overnight, hence Zealandia’s far sighted vision. The defining feature was the construction, in 1999, of an 8.6 kilometre-long predator exclusion fence completely surrounding the sanctuary.

Thanks to the fence, and to community conservation efforts like Predator Free Wellington, the 500-year project has progressed dramatically in just 25 years.

Wellington is one of the only cities in the world where bird biodiversity is increasing. Tūī and kererū, once rare, are now an everyday sight around the region. Kākā and kārearea (NZ falcon) are now commonly seen in the city and nearby suburbs.

Zealandia’s vision would not be possible without support, funding and sponsorship. Visiting also contributes to the ongoing conservation work.

So, if you are in Wellington, take a break for a walk in the bush where you will hear only birdsong and where you can witness rare native birds like the hihi (stitchbird), tīeke (saddleback), kākāriki (NZ parakeet) and takahē and see prehistoric tuatara sunbathing. If you take a guided night tour, you may spot the kiwi pukupuku (little spotted kiwi), some 200 of which now call Zealandia home.

Free shuttles to Zealandia leave from Wellington’s isite and the top of the cable car.

VISITZEALANDIA.COM

Clubbing with the girls

A girls’ golf getaway to Ōhope and Whakatāne serves up the ultimate weekend escape.

Planning a girls' weekend that mixes great golf with good food and a bit of beachside downtime?

Ōhope and Whakatāne deliver the goods, whether you're a near-pro or just tagging along for the eats and views.

Tee off and chill out

This trip starts on the green. You’ve got two standout courses close together, each with its own vibe.

Ōhope Beach Golf Links is the kind of course where your phone camera might get more action than your driver. With views of the Pacific Ocean on one side and Ōhiwa Harbour on the other, it’s a classic links course with a relaxed pace, plenty of fresh air and a few playful challenges to keep things lively.

Over and around the hill, Whakatāne Golf Club offers something different. It’s lush, tree-lined and loved for its pristine greens. Ideal if you want a slightly more structured round, or to show off your short game.

Where to stay and slay

Ōhope offers beachside motels, modern apartments and the well-loved Ōhope Beach Top 10 Holiday Park, complete with spas and saunas that are perfect after a day of golf or shopping.

In Whakatāne, stay central with chic motels and easy-access apartments, or find a tucked-away spot if you're craving a quiet wine-and-face-mask night.

A little shopping, a little adventure

Got some downtime between tee times? You’ll find it easy to fill. Boutique stores in Ōhope Village and along The Strand in Whakatāne are great for a slow wander, especially if your crew loves homewares, beachwear and little local gems.

For something more active, explore the trails around Ōhiwa Harbour by bike, take a scenic bush walk on the Nga Tapuwae o Toi trail, or soak up some sun along Ōhope Beach. Feeling adventurous? Book a fishing charter or a kayak trip and make some salty memories together.

Bites and bonding

After your round, the real fun begins. Start at Fisherman’s Wharf in Ōhope for cocktails and seafood with a view, or head to Moxi for great coffee and brunch bites. The Ōhope Beach Tavern brings the post-golf pub vibes, with a side of ocean breeze. Whakatāne steps it up after dark. Grab fusion dishes and fizz at Cigol, hearty burgers and beers at The Comm, or something more refined (and wine list–friendly) at Roquette. Craft lovers, don’t miss Mata Brewery for a tasting flight and Smokin’ Goose for next-level BBQ.

The best kind of girls’ trip

A golf getaway with the girls doesn’t have to be all about the game. Whakatāne and Ōhope serve up the perfect blend of swing, sip, shop and soak, all in one sunny, easy-to-reach package. Whether you're lining up birdies or just enjoying the weekend vibes, it’s a trip worth planning.

WHAKATANE.COM

A fine balance

YOU Travel’s Brenda Stephen experienced sensory exhilaration and soulful serenity on a recent Uniworld trip: India’s Golden Triangle and the Sacred Ganges.

WORDS Liz French

The spectacular Taj Mahal.

How to compare the experience of sunrise at the Taj Mahal with that of visiting the Calcutta Rescue Centre that supports children from the slums? “Wonder and awe for one and touched at the heart by the other,” says Brenda.

This is India, land of colour and contrasts, pace and peace. Uniworld’s tour delves right in by pairing the classic golden triangle of New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur with visits to rural communities off the beaten track. This provides a fine balance between the experience of huge cities with fabulous hotels and that of cruising the Ganges, mooring at villages seldom on travel itineraries.

The trip begins on land with five luxurious nights in the Golden Triangle, staying in Oberoi hotels. Each property exudes its own distinct personality and sense of place which delighted Brenda. “Agra’s Oberoi Amarvilas has a view of the Taj Mahal from every room and is just 600 metres from the Taj itself,” she explains. “Rose petals wafted from the roof as we arrived at Jaipur’s Oberoi Rajvilas, which is set around an ancient Shiva temple on 32 manured acres.”

The hotels are oases of calm after daily excursions by tuktuk, rickshaw or coach, with local guides, where you embrace the unique architecture, atmosphere and culture of each destination without worrying about the logistics.

Five-star floating

Then it’s onto your floating hotel after a flight to Kolkata to embark Uniworld’s Ganges Voyager II, the last word in riverboat luxury. The boat holds 56 passengers, 36 crew and colonially inspired suites with vantage points for watching the light over this everchanging river, sacred and central to life in the fertile and densely populated Ganges Delta.

This is home for the next seven nights. While the ship sails gently up the Ganges you settle into serenity, sip cocktails on the deck, dine on an Indian and international menu with ingredients from the local villages you visit enroute and even learn Indian culinary skills in cooking demonstrations. Informative nightly talks prepare you for your daily adventures, which include a river port dating to 1809 with magnificent Hindu temples, an authentic artisan market in a riverside village and the “Garden of Happiness”. Local guides complement the vast knowledge of the onboard experts.

Happiness is also wellness on the Ganges Voyager II, with daily yoga classes on the sundeck and Ayurvedic spa treatments and massages. “Very soothing after a day’s sightseeing!” Brenda enthuses.

At YOU Travel and Cruise the experienced staff are not about enabling you to simply tick off your bucket list. The question, “What do you want to get out of it?” is as important as, “Where do you want to go?”

If India really appeals, but you are a little apprehensive, and if you want to revel in its infinite variety without sweating the small stuff, group travel is the answer. Uniworld’s boutique itinerary exposes you to India’s myriad of sights, smells and sounds while providing a peaceful refuge to recover and recharge ready for the next foray into the unknown, with every detail thought of.

While this journey only covered a small corner of India, it has whetted Brenda’s appetite for more. “Because I was with a group, I did not find it daunting, quickly becoming comfortable with India’s ‘normal’,” she says. “Despite the luxury aspect of this tour, a big takeaway for me was the spirituality of the people and the joy in simplicity,” she says. “India is like Africa. It gets under your skin.”

YOUTRAVELBETHLEHEM.CO.NZ

Valley of light

UNO editor Hayley Barnett sees Rotorua in a beautiful new light at Mārama, Te Puia’s unforgettable geothermal nighttime experience.

PHOTOS Graeme Murray + Supplied

As dusk slowly settles over the geothermal valley at Te Puia in Rotorua, the day’s steam softening in the low bask of the sun, the magic of this place becomes more and more apparent. Beams of light begin to burst through the haze while we sit in Pātaka Kai, Te Puia’s renowned restaurant, enjoying our dinner on the heated deck.

Laser lighting has been meticulously set up across the 70-hectare site, to showcase more than 500 geothermal features, many of which are usually only accessible during the day.

On the launch night of the Mārama Geyser Light Trail, the hush across the valley is about to blossom into an immersive interplay of light and music that will transform Te Puia from darkness into a world of light. But, I soon discover, this is more than a light show; it’s an experience which showcases whakapapa and years of culture.

“Everything we do here is to uplift te ahurea Māori,” says special events manager Reanne Poutama. “With Mārama, Te Puia wanted to create something magical that would reflect our whenua and our stories in a way we’ve never done before.”

It’s clear from the outset that Te Puia has achieved this lofty goal. From the moment you step through the entrance to the 1.5km trail, you’re guided by sound and story. Setting the tone is musician Maisey Rika’s ambient waiata. Her otherworldly voice follows us as we head down the path.

On this night, we’re lucky enough to witness Maisey herself singing atop a point that stands high above the valley, overlooking the geysers and geothermal activity, the lights flickering through the steam behind her. The effect is ethereal and spine tingling.

“Maisey’s songs are the soundscape for the whole experience,” explains Reanne. “We’ve tried to partner our lighting in a way that amplifies each waiata.”

The 10 scenes have been designed to reflect the natural environment, which is infused with Māori storytelling. The trail winds through glowing Māori artworks, bubbling mud and towering trees. At every bend, the valley becomes a theatre. Laser lights ripple like currents above Puarenga Stream, while geothermal steam is lit from within, mimicking ancestral breath. One of the most memorable scenes evokes Tangaroa, atua of the sea, his story told through undulating blue lasers and swelling sound. Standing there, it almost seems as if the sea has risen into the valley.

Midway, the geothermal terrace offers a natural pause. Beneath the steam, natural hot rock seats offer warmth and a moment to breathe, with Pōhutu Geyser in the distance.

Self-paced and child friendly, the walk is around 60 minutes, taking into account all the stops and meanderings. The trail features hosts at certain points along the way, which allows visitors to move at their own pace.

Family accessibility was always part of the vision.

“The inspiration first was to provide something for Rotorua at nighttime for families,” she explains. “But we also hope that it’s accessible to everyone, including locals, internationals and families. It’s priced differently to our usual offerings because we really wanted whānau to be able to come and enjoy it.”

Along the trail are a number of artworks created by Māori artists, including glowing light boxes designed by students from Te Takapū o Rotowhio (the National Stone and Bone Carving School) at the on-site New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute.

“They’ve designed light boxes that tell our traditional stories,” says Reanne. “We’re weaving in our people’s talents and creative flair.”

That includes Mikaere, a Te Puia guide who created a mural of the story of Mārama using glow-in-the-dark and metallic paints that come alive under UV light.

“He’s amazing,” Reanne says proudly. “He would never usually get to showcase this kind of work, and now it’s part of the trail.”

Another highlight comes near the end of the walk, towards Pikirangi Village, where a forest tunnel glimmers and soft lasers rain down like an aurora, creating a canopy of light. As we gaze upward, everyone around us slows their steps. This is the magic of Mārama. Resting in the final notes of Maisey Rika’s voice, we look out over the valley under real stars. In this moment, it’s hard not to feel connected to te ao Māori. It’s a reminder of how deeply this experience is rooted in wairua.

While Te Puia’s daytime experiences have long celebrated Māori culture through kapa haka and guided storytelling, Mārama is something altogether different.

“This is something very new here,” Reanne says. “We’re usually quite traditional... This is us mixing those traditional elements with modernity. And even if you come during the day, you won’t see any of this. It’s exclusive to Mārama.”

Having grown up in Rotorua, I know this area well, but the whole nighttime experience felt like seeing the valley for the first time. Mārama feels meaningful. It’s a walk through the unseen stories of the land, guided by light and music.

Reanne reflects: “It’s a way to feel connected to our place, to our people and our stories.”

Mārama runs until April 2026, with entry from 7:30pm (Sept–Nov) and 8:30pm (Dec–April). See the website for the Matariki 2026 relaunch. Tickets are $49 for adults and $25 for children.

TEPUIA.COM

Wild Eastern roadie

Somewhere past Ōpōtiki, where the coastline starts its slow exhale and State Highway 35 begins to wind and dip like it’s dancing, you’ll find a different rhythm. Welcome to Tairāwhiti Gisborne.

Need a change of pace? This East Coast loop from the Bay of Plenty to Gisborne and back through the Waioeka Gorge is the kind of trip that offers wide roads, coastline and a few surprises along the way. Give it three or four days, and you’ll get much more than you bargained for, along with some very decent stories.

DAY ONE: R IVERS , HORSES AND THE OPEN COAST

Hit the road early from the Bay and follow the coast east. By mid-morning, you're in Motu country, with its remote, green landscapes and winding rivers. Hop on a jet boat with Motu River Jet for a ride that’s part thrill, part history lesson.

Next, swap horsepower for actual horses at Standfast Horse Treks in Te Kaha. These aren’t your standard tourist trails. You’ll cross rivers, ride through native bush and get a salty breeze off the sea. Go for a short trek or stay overnight and wake up to birds and surf.

Stay: Stay in Te Kaha, Waihau Bay or Te Araroa, which has a range of accommodation options from hotels, motels, holiday parks and baches.

DAY TWO: A SLOW CRUISE TO GISBORNE

The drive to Gisborne along SH35 isn’t long, but you’ll want to stop often. The route passes through quiet bays and towns like Waihau Bay and Tokomaru Bay, where everything moves slower, but in a good way.

As you head down the coast, pull into St Mary’s Church in Tikitiki, then be sure to try a pāua pie in Tokomaru Bay before continuing south to walk along Tolaga Bay Wharf.

BONUS ADD-ON: If you’ve got time, book a guided tour up Maunga Hikurangi near Ruatoria. It’s one of the first places in the world to see the sun, and the mountain has deep cultural significance to Ngāti Porou. Stand among the sacred pou (carvings) and watch a once-in-a-lifetime sunrise unfold before you.

DAY THREE: INTO THE BLUE

Once in Gisborne, head to Dive Tatapouri for a close encounter with wild stingrays on the reef. No tanks or tricks, just wading into their world. Later, head inland to Eastwoodhill National Arboretum, home to over 135 hectares of diverse, world-class botanical collections.

Stay: From boutique motels and vineyard cabins to farm stays and holiday parks, Gisborne has a great range of places to stay. Or keep it coastal and fall asleep to the sound of the surf.

DAY FOUR: RAILBIKING

If you’re up early, start the day with a famous East Coast sunrise. There’s nothing quite like it. Afterwards, ease into a leisurely brunch at Flagship Eatery or Zephyr in Wainui, both beloved local favourites. Experience Gisborne Railbikes and pedal along a disused railway line, winding through orchards and soaking in stunning coastal views.

Enjoy an afternoon at one of the local wineries. Matawhero, Wrights and Bushmere Estate each offer unique tastings and mouth-watering food to enjoy.

Evening: Try one of the many amazing dining options, such as Crawford Road, Tahu or check out a unique evening experience at Dome Cinema.

HEADING HOME

Loop back to the Bay through Waioeka Gorge, where the road snakes between thick bush and river cliffs. It’s a scenic end to a trip that packs more into a few days than you'd expect.

TO P TI P S

• Bring layers, swim gear, decent shoes and a curious attitude.

• Choose your level of comfort. Accommodation ranges from campsites and retro motels to lodges.

• If you’re going during summer or school holidays, book ahead.

TAIRAWHITIGISBORNE.CO.NZ

Island of the gods

Whether itʼs surfing, trekking or meditating that floats your boat, Bali proves its a tropical destination for one and all.

words NICKY ADAMS

Before booking a trip to Bali I asked around incessantly for opinions and found that people very much fell into two camps. Comments ranged from ‘I absolutely love it, would go every year if I could’ versus ‘too much traffic, too commercial’.

After a little deliberation matched with airfares that made it cheaper than a trip to Fiji, our family decided to take the plunge.

Arriving in Denpasar airport late afternoon, the general lack of clear instruction in immigration was confusing, but introduction of E-gates meant those with children of 14 and over could avoid all queues and zoom through. A little pre-planning meant we had booked a driver to pick us up (anyone who has been to Bali will usually be able to pass on a contact) and because traffic is notoriously bad post 4pm we had decided to stay cheaply close to the airport in Kuta with a view to starting the trip properly the next day. Our driver (Wayan) returned to pick us up at 9am, and without much idea of what we really wanted to do, other than end up in Ubud, Wayan took charge of the immediate itinerary and we hit the road.

Weaving through streets where around every corner there is a stunning temple, meant that even without a specific tourist attraction in mind, everything felt exciting and vibrant. Ubud is both a town and a district. The area is thick with rainforest and known for its breathtaking terraced rice fields, while also being an arts centre and cultural capital. Bali is predominantly Hindu in faith (with Muslim, Christian and Buddhism all much smaller denominations), and Ubud is home to many ancient relics of religious significance. Stopping at one of the ‘Big Swings’, where you take your life in your hands while you fly through the air over steep drops down to lush green rice terraces, the breathtaking scenery gives the combined benefit of adrenalin rush and top tourist attraction rolled into one. The same location offered a journey through the process of manufacturing Luwak, the well-known Balinese coffee produced via the intestines of a civet. Yes, the coffee beans are eaten and pooped out by civets. Freakish though it sounds, the product is delicious, and was one of many superb Balinese coffee blends – I’ll admit to returning with an addiction for strong filtered coffee.

Ubud can be done as a day tour, however I would highly recommend it as a destination worthy of longer. The streets are packed with sights – amongst the many, while here we visited the authentic Neka Art Museum, traditional Art Market, Saraswati Temple and the magnificent Ubud Palace. Shop after shop offers multiple artisan gifts, along with jewellery and clothes – and a covered market is an emporium of delights. It takes a while to get the hang of the bartering system – tempering guilt at haggling with the desire not to be ridiculously ripped off, makes this a learning curve. Shopping and temples aside, Ubud boasts some amazing restaurants and multiple boutique hotels which are of the highest international standard but at a fraction of the price. As a family of five we preferred two bedrooms, and as one of our children has a nut allergy we wanted to be able to prepare our own food, which we could achieve by staying in the villa part of a hotel. This came with a lounge, kitchen and our own pool. At the higher end of the accommodation options, the service (cocktails) and facilities were unsurpassed. There was also a great deal of reassurance knowing the hygiene standards were exacting and water used in everything was purified, so ice was safe and plentiful. Here in Ubud there are plenty of accommodation options available, at a price point to suit any budget or individual needs.

With monkeys roaming the streets, pilfering from store owners and tourists alike, there is an authenticity to Ubud that, despite the crowds, cannot dull its charm. I had heard differing opinions on the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (too touristy/biting monkeys), but desire to experience it outweighed the fear of a showdown with a fearsome primate. Forewarned is forearmed – and I would say that if you have few ‘removables’ and treat the monkeys with respect you would be unlucky to be targeted (although one did steal my daughter’s ice block out of her hand as we left). Watching them swing around you, frolic in front of you, tend to tiny babies and generally go about their business was nothing short of magical.

Writer Nicky and the family at their villa, located between Legian and Seminyak.

Knowing the 40-minute drive to the coastal town of Seminyak would take much longer than this in traffic, combining a change of location with more sightseeing seemed a great option. Our trusty driver came to pick us up, and together we worked out a route, which took in Tibumana (the not-so-secret secret waterfall) and Tirta Empul Temple, which is considered the most sacred temple amongst the Balinese Hindu community. All the time weaving through scenic countryside of rice fields and multiple other less known attractions. Feeling that we had well and truly ticked the tourist box, once we arrived at our beach destination, there was no guilt in the following days centred around mooching, shopping, eating, drinking and enjoying the blazing heat. If beach is important to your trip, then there are breathtaking beaches to discover, and Bali is a well-known surf destination.

Seminyak/Legian beach is a cool spot, by night dotted in multi-coloured bean bags and cranking out music to chill to as the sun goes down. But for beach alone it would not have the biggest pull. However, the area itself is everything you could want and more. The shopping is frenzied but friendly, the hassling is minimal and in good spirits – if you want a more refined experience there is a mall surrounded by street after street of high-end boutiques. There are also some key restaurants and hotels to visit; Double Six, with its sunset roof top bar makes a wonderful evening hang out. If you want to try local fare but are feeling cautious, then go mad on the tropical fruit – passion fruit is not as we know it, coming in at much sweeter, watermelon can be found with bright yellow fresh, rambutan (lychees) are sweet and flavoursome. We loved the mangosteen fruit, a segmented milky white flesh, the snake fruit (salak) was crunchy and almost chestnutty. If you really want to try something unusual then look no further than the durian – I literally couldn’t explain the taste other than as custardy caramalised onion. Not one I’ll be adding to my fruit salad.

We rented a villa (Andari Villas) that was close to the famous Double Six area; located between Legian and Seminyak, while central its position on a side street meant we experienced the best of both worlds (as well as have our cleaning, catering and washing seen to by a resident maid, and security at the end of the street). Outside the hub-bub – which we could dip into and then out again at will; inside was a sanctuary spread over three bedrooms, two lounges, five bathrooms, kitchen and private pool.

The utter tranquility meant we could stay and chill to our hearts’ content. If massage is your thing, then Bali will be your heaven – of all the things that are ‘affordable’ massage knocks the rest out of the park. We were able to have a masseuse come to the villa for an amazing poolside massage, an hourlong treat costing the same as a couple of coffees in NZ. Of course, tipping, while not expected, is something you want to do – when we tend to be cashless it’s worth trying to remember to always have something to hand.

No matter if your idea of the perfect holiday is active resting or totally zoning out, Bali really does bring it all to the table. Plan ahead and work out what you want from the trip, pack the hand sanitiser and it really is a glorious island paradise.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Other highly recommended spots include Canguu and Sanur.

• Surfing opportunities are next level – Kedungu, Padang Padang, Medewi.

• Restaurants to try – Sardine (Kerobokan), Chandi (Seminyak)

• We travelled at the start of the dry season, some rain, but sightseeing was amazing regardless.

• Add activities such as cook schools, meditation, or yoga retreats – go by recommendations.

• Pack medication. We took charcoal tablets, but arm yourselves with painkillers for stomach ache, and something for nausea.

• Scooters are a fun, efficient way to travel – check out reviews for rentals.

• Waterbom Bali is family fun.

• We stayed in a variety of accommodations with prices starting from $200 per night for five inclusive of breakfast for two rooms in the hotel and three rooms in the villa.

• While we only managed to get away for a week, I would recommend at least 10 days.

• Go by accommodation recommendations if possible as quality varies hugely.

Organise visas in advance as they can be tricky. If it feels daunting, ask an expert

– travel agent or small operator. Locally Sandy Crooks (Clarke Rd Kitchen),

arranges and leads exclusive group tours to Bali.

Winter wonderlands

While many of us dream of ditching the winter coats and chasing the sun, there’s something irresistibly charming about leaning into the season instead. Think snow dusted villages, steaming mugs of mulled wine and the soft crunch of fresh powder underfoot. Tanya Chaffey of Chaffey and Turner Travel Associates in Tauranga shares her top picks for destinations that make the cold well worth it.

Whether you're dreaming of frosty escapades in the heart of Finland's Lapland, carving pristine powder in Japan's renowned skiing destinations, or soaking in Iceland's geothermal allure, my guide to the ultimate winter holiday will transport you to where the festive spirit and the magic of the season create an unforgettable experience. From the artistry of ice sculptures in Harbin to the wildlife wonders of Canada's snowy terrains, each destination offers its unique charm and promise of an enchanted winter.

Finland

Venturing into the heart of Finland, especially around the Arctic Circle and Lapland, feels like stepping right into a winter fairy tale. Rovaniemi, the official hometown of Santa Claus, is your year-round hub for all things Christmas, and meeting the real-deal Santa and Mrs Claus at the Santa Claus village is pure magic. Try snuggling up in an igloo for the night. If you're lucky, you'll get front-row seats to the Northern Lights right from your bed. There’s loads of adventure activities right on your doorstep, too. Hop on a snowmobile and take in the stunning winter landscapes. Or opt for a gentler journey with a reindeer or dog sled ride. Japan The snow in Japan is really something special. Places like Niseko and Hakuba are known for their light, dry powder — often called “Japow” — and offer terrain for all skill levels. The ski season generally runs from December to April, though dates vary depending on location and snowfall.

Many resorts have ski-in/ski-out access, and all-inclusive options that include everything from steaming bowls of ramen to international dishes. Take a break from the slopes to explore an onsen village. Or visit the snow monkeys warming themselves in natural hot springs.

Iceland

Winter in Iceland feels slower, quieter, and more surreal, with only a few hours of pale daylight and long, starlit nights. It’s an ideal time to soak in the country’s geothermal pools — the Blue Lagoon is the most famous, but there are dozens of others tucked into lava fields and coastlines across the country. Christmas here comes with its own folklore. Iceland’s holiday season is rich with stories of elves and the 13 Yule Lads, mischievous characters who arrive one by one in the lead-up to Christmas. The blend of natural drama and cultural tradition makes a winter visit something you won’t forget.

Harbin, China

In Harbin, ice becomes art. Each year, the city hosts the world famous Ice and Snow Festival, where towers, sculptures, and even entire buildings are carved from blocks of ice and lit up in vivid colour. There's an ice amusement park, too, and food stalls serving everything from spicy skewers to hearty dumplings. Russian influence lingers in the city’s architecture and cuisine, adding another layer of interest. Temperatures can drop below –35°C, so dress for deep winter.

Canada

Few places do winter like Canada. Whistler is a favourite for skiers and snowboarders, with varied terrain and a lively après-ski scene. Think alpine lodges, open fires, and a reliable snowfall that draws visitors from around the world. For wildlife lovers, Churchill in Manitoba is one of the best places to see polar bears in their natural habitat. Or head further north on an Arctic cruise, where the frozen wilderness might offer glimpses of walruses, Arctic foxes, and even narwhals.

TRAVEL-ASSOCIATES.CO.NZ

Staying power

A chance conversation has grown into a hugely successful business thanks to a focus on core values and positive word of mouth. MyStays owner Elle Knight shares her journey as the short-stay accommodation service moves into the Bay.

photo JESSICA LEE PHOTOGRAPHY

Elle Knight didn’t set out to become a business owner. She was simply looking for a little light relief. With a newborn son, who was born deaf and requiring bilateral cochlear implants, and a husband recovering from a broken leg, things were tight. Then came a message from her cousin: “Want to borrow some DVDs?”

While dropping them off, her cousin mentioned her partner was looking to sell a small property management business in Taupō. He managed eight apartments, but they were ready to move to Vanuatu.

“I said to my husband, ‘I reckon that would be a good gig for me,’” Elle recalls. She saw potential – flexible hours that worked around the kids and enough income to cover essentials.

With no experience but a strong head for business, Elle joined forces with her mother-in-law, Denise, to purchase what was then called Luxury Lakeside Accommodation.

Elle’s years in banking had armed her with valuable systems knowledge and operational know-how – skills that would quietly lay the foundation for the scalable business they would later build.

“I’m very much a jump in and learn how to swim person,” she smiles. “Back then, we didn’t know what success would look like. It was exciting to think we had something that could make a real difference.”

In the early days, they did it all themselves, including the cleaning in the mornings, laundry at home, and manually managing bookings in the afternoons.

“It worked for about six months. But Taupō’s a small town. Word gets around.”

Before long, property owners began knocking. The business grew quickly, driven purely by word of mouth. For the next six years, growth was steady and organic, all based on one simple idea: genuine, high-quality service for both guests and homeowners.

“It got to a stage where we looked at each other one night and thought, ‘How has this happened?’” Elle laughs.

What had happened was remarkable. They’d built a reputation that larger, offshore-run platforms couldn’t match, rooted in care, consistency and personal connection. Property owners felt genuinely supported, and guests returned for the reliably high standard across every property.

When Denise stepped away, Elle and her husband took over completely. But they were fielding a new kind of request. Guests and owners alike asked if their services were available outside Taupō. The answer, eventually, became MyStays.

Launched in January 2024 as a sister brand to Lakeside Accommodation, MyStays was created to grow the business while maintaining the personal touch and high standards that made Lakeside a success.

While Lakeside continues to manage 60 plus properties in Taupō, the brands now work together in both Taupō and Kinloch, with a combined portfolio of over 110 homes.

“Taupō is still our base, but we realised there was a real demand for our kind of service in other regions,” says Elle. “MyStays lets us do that – scale up, while still keeping it personal.”

The two brands have since grown to manage 145 plus properties across New Zealand, including more than 25 homes in the Coromandel’s most sought-after beach destinations.

In every region, the heart of the operation is the same: a local, trusted team providing hands-on care. That’s where the GEM model (short for Guest Experience Manager) comes in. Each GEM is a local, supporting homeowners and guests with boots-on-the-ground knowledge and attention. Taupō and Kinloch have three GEMs working alongside the Lakeside team. The Coromandel is supported by another trio, with more roles in the pipeline as expansion continues.

“It’s really important to us that our service feels local,” Elle explains. “Our GEMs make that possible. They’re not just staff – they’re trusted partners who help us maintain that consistent experience we’re known for.”

That consistency is key. Whether guests book a MyStays property in Auckland, Whangamatā, or Napier, they know exactly what to expect: clean, stylish accommodation and responsive service. The Bay of Plenty is the latest region to join the MyStays map. It wasn’t initially part of Elle’s plan. She believed it was already well-served by boutique operators. But after hearing from multiple property owners dissatisfied with impersonal management companies, she saw room for MyStays to add value.

“It’s a stunning place. I’ve enjoyed family time and attending events here,” Elle says. “It’s vibrant and exciting, with great food and shopping, and it really is a year-round destination.”

Despite its scale, Elle still sees MyStays as a family business at heart. Her team is tight-knit, and many of them have grown within their roles as the company has scaled.

“There’s a real sense of belonging here,” she says. “That gives us an authentic connection to our owners and our guests. We believe in what we do, and when you see that connection happen, it’s pretty special.”

From a borrowed DVD collection to a nationwide property portfolio, Elle Knight’s journey proves that small beginnings can lead to big things.

MYSTAYS.CO.NZ

Waikato showcase

Crafting elegance

N.E.S is celebrating 25 years of timeless, New Zealand-made fashion. Creative director Kate Harris teams up with Robyn Stinson of ObyRyn, merging their distinct design visions to create something extraordinary. Known for versatile pieces with a refined edge, N.E.S prioritises local craftsmanship, offering women style, comfort and individuality. Here's to 25 years of evolving, yet enduring, fashion.

NESBOUTIQUE.CO.NZ

Light the sky

Balloons Over Waikato's ZURU Nightglow is Hamilton’s biggest night out, attracting over 30,000 attendees for a spectacular evening. Enjoy hours of live entertainment, carnival rides, food trucks, and the breathtaking hot air balloon glow show lighting up the sky. The night culminates in a dazzling SkyCity Hamilton fireworks display. A family favourite? Walking inside a real hot air balloon. This ticketed free event takes place every March.

BALLOONSOVERWAIKATO.CO.NZ

Global success

Four mates, a few gins, and some bad jokes led to the creation of Clark Lane Distillery. Their Piko Gin blends native Pikopiko fern with pure Pirongia spring water. With a Silver at the Asia Spirits Challenge™ and Gold at the Gin of the Year™ awards in London, Piko Gin promises global success and sophisticated taste. Grab your bottle now.

CLARKLANEDISTILLERY.CO.NZ

Game on

SkyCity Hamilton is the home of entertainment in the heart of Hamilton. With 20 tenpin bowling lanes, an exciting mix of restaurants and bars, a casino, live entertainment, conference and event spaces for hire plus plenty of on-site parking, there is something for everyone. R20 for entry to the casino.

SKYCITYHAMILTON.CO.NZ

Relax and recharge

Just a short walk from the airport, JetPark Hamilton Airport Hotel and Conference Centre is a welcoming stop along your journey. Family-owned and Kiwi-operated, it offers a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy art-filled spaces, fresh seasonal dishes made with local ingredients, and the convenience of complimentary parking and Wi-Fi. Whether you're in town for a meeting, a break between flights, or a peaceful overnight stay, the hotel’s modern facilities and friendly atmosphere ensure a comfortable stay. Let JetPark be a simple, memorable part of your travels. JETPARKHAMILTON.CO.NZ

A region for the ages

A family getaway to the Waikato uncovered a treasure trove of activities for all three generations.

words HAYLEY BARNETT

The Waikato seems to be undergoing something of a travel renaissance. With a growing number of new experiences and attractions popping up in and around Hamilton and Cambridge, it's quickly becoming one of the North Island’s must-visit regions. From the world’s largest organic tea plantation to New Zealand’s most visited attraction, Hobbiton™, and the foodie hub that is MADE, there’s now so much to see and do that fitting it all into a single weekend feels like a challenge.

Fortunately, Hamilton is just a two-hour drive from Tauranga, making it perfect for a quick getaway. Our family managed to pack in a wide range of family-friendly activities, and I even snuck away with Mum for a day of more grown-up indulgence. As it turns out, the Waikato is also an ideal destination for the over 50s, with highlights like the spellbinding Hamilton Gardens, scenic riverside walks, bustling weekend markets, and charming countryside homesteads offering something for every kind of traveller.

Zealong Tea Estate

I wouldn’t call Mum obsessive, but if there’s one thing she’s truly passionate about, it’s tea. So it was only f itting that we made a stop at Zealong, just outside of Hamilton, home to the world’s largest internationally certified organic tea plantation. At Zealong, tea isn’t just a beverage, it’s a way of life. The passion among the staff is palpable, and from the moment we arrived, the experience felt more like a refined wine tasting than a simple visit to a tea farm.

We were lucky to run into Zealong’s CEO, Gigi Crawford, who welcomed us and shared her extensive knowledge of tea. She walked us through the company’s inspiring journey, from a modest patch of tea plants nearly 30 years ago to an award winning, globally respected organic tea label. Among its many accolades, Zealong recently received the UK Tea Academy’s prestigious ‘Lifetime Achievement Leafie’, a testament to the team’s dedication.

Mum, naturally in her element, impressed everyone by correctly identifying different teas and blends, while I fumbled through with minimal knowledge. We were then taken on a tour of the building and the plantation, learning about the Chinese history of tea. Sculptures of important historical figures dotted along the path leading up to the Tea Room showcased a lengthy history dating back almost 5000 years.

At the Tea Room, we participated in a traditional tea ceremony, then were served what can only be described as the best high tea of my life. Zealong’s French pastry chef treated us to an incredible array of delicious pastries, sandwiches and sweets, all designed to accompany various types of tea blends. It was fair to say this was one of Mum’s top holiday highlights.

Woodlands Estate

Just four minutes down the road from Zealong lies Woodlands Estate, a sprawling 98,000-acre property established in 1872. At its heart stands the beautifully restored Homestead, originally built around 1875 as a manager’s residence and crafted largely from native Kauri timber. The surrounding gardens are home to some huge botanical treasures, including New Zealand’s largest Eucalyptus tree. We wandered along peaceful tracks that weave through the estate’s lush gardens and trees, then stepped inside the Homestead, where rooms remain just as they were when the last family moved out in the early 1900s. Next door, a charming café offered the perfect spot to recharge after our meanderings.

Hamilton Gardens

Another epic outing can be found at the Hamilton Gardens. If you haven’t been yet, you’re definitely missing out. Recently upgraded, the Gardens are now even more welcoming. One of the biggest changes is the addition of the Gallagher Visitor Centre, which opened last year. It now serves as the main entrance to the Enclosed Gardens and includes a café, extra seating, and event spaces.

Whether you're young or just young at heart, it’s easy to spend an entire day exploring. Each garden offers a memorable, educational experience. I knew the kids would love the gardens, so we picked them up on our way there from Woodlands Estate. As predicted, they were especially enchanted by the Surrealist Garden, a whimsical dreamscape where everything is larger-than-life, making you feel like you've stepped into a storybook.

They also loved the Ancient Egyptian Garden, which transports you 4,000 years back in time to a sacred temple garden. And no visit would be complete without a stop at the Destination Playground, packed with a treehouse, slides, and a stage perfect for imaginative play.

I would highly recommend taking a tour with a guide who explains everything you need to know about each garden. It beats fumbling through the brochure and displaying your lack of historical knowledge in front of the kids.

MADE

Discovering one of the country’s best culinary hubs is nestled inside a block of shops in Hamilton East was not on my bingo card this year. But lo and behold there we were sampling some amazing food from some amazing artisans and shopping up a storm. The vibrant atmosphere proves the Waikato’s creative food scene has well and truly taken its place as a top destination for foodies. We dined at Reggie’s, a cute Italian restaurant serving up authentic dishes in a cool diner with views of the city. Then stopped in for gelato downstairs at Little ‘Lato. We were back the next day to do our grocery shop at the stalls – a great old-timey market experience in itself.

Te Whare Taonga o Waikato Museum & Gallery

It was recommended the kids visit Waikato Museum’s interactive science centre, Exscite, which has recently been revitalised into two zones: Exscite: Home, exploring everyday science in a fun, hands-on way, and Exscite: Taiao, focused on Aotearoa’s natural environment. Among the standout features is a 30-million-year-old giant penguin fossil discovered locally, as well as digital activities like a touch-screen forest where kids can animate their own bird designs. All made for a great rainy day adventure.

Cambridge’s new boutique gem

Set to open later this year, The Clements Hotel brings new life to one of Cambridge’s grand old buildings. Carefully restored with a nod to its 19th-century roots, the 29-room boutique hotel mixes old-world charm with modern luxury. Think plush rooms, a speakeasy-style bar, garden suites, and standout dining at the Gallery Restaurant. With five-star service, locally crafted gin, and stylish spaces to relax or celebrate, The Clements is set to become the go-to place for discerning travellers. The Clements is offering a grand opening special with 15 percent off room only rates for stays until September 30, 2025, subject to availability.

Lake Te Koo Utu Walk

A day trip to Cambridge was clearly on everyone’s holiday agenda during a stunning autumn weekend. We joined the crowds, ducking in and out of charming boutiques before grabbing some sushi for lunch. Craving a bit of peace and nature, we decided to explore beyond the town centre. Leaving the car parked, we strolled down to Lake Te Koo Utu, tucked right in the heart of Cambridge. I’m a little embarrassed to admit I hadn’t known it was there until a lovely woman at the isite Information Centre pointed us in the right direction. The loop around the lake is a beautiful, mostly shaded walk that takes about half an hour. Halfway around (if you're entering from the town side), there’s a playground and a garden perched on the hill. The kids had a blast weaving through the rose bushes and swinging their way through the park.

Camjet Extreme Tour

Just beneath Victoria Bridge, tucked along the banks of the Waikato River, you'll find Camjet – an adrenaline-packed adventure perfect for thrill-seekers and laid-back explorers alike. This high-speed jet boat ride pushes you out of your comfort zone while offering fascinating insights into the river’s history and ecosystem. Our driver, Aaron, kept us guessing with sharp twists, sudden spins, and unexpected stops to share curious facts, some of which may or may not have been entirely true. Along the way, we spotted a hawk snatch an eel mid-flight, only to lose it as it soared over the dense bush, and even caught glimpses of giant goldfish gliding near the shore. The entire ride lasted about 45 minutes, and by the end, we were soaked, and grinning from ear to ear.

Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari

On our last day, we took a bit of a detour before heading home. Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari is a must-visit eco-sanctuary just outside of Te Awamutu. Enclosed by one of the world's longest pest-proof fences, this ancient forest is a haven for native wildlife, including kiwi, takahē, and tuatara. You can book a guided walk, but we decided to head in on our own. We climbed treetop viewing platforms and walked the serene forest trails while learning about conservation efforts to restore the natural ecosystem on signs along the path. Without predators, the wildlife are surprisingly friendly. A North Island robin followed us for part of the walk and happily posed for photos just an arms-length away. The whole experience was a great chance to experience New Zealand’s biodiversity as it once was.

Choice as

Pāpāmoa was recently crowned ’New Zealand’s Choicest Suburb’. With its recent developments and array of foodie offerings, it’s easy to see why.

photos ALAN GIBSON + SUPPLIED

The people have spoken. And what the people have said is that Pāpāmoa is officially ’New Zealand's Choicest Suburb’.

Every suburb in Aotearoa was eligible, but the Bay’s popular beachside location won, earning more than 50,000 public votes in the competition hosted by Trade Me Property.

But what was it about the unassuming suburb that won people over? Well, the natural environment is what truly sets Pāpāmoa apart. There’s the amazing beach, the recently redeveloped walks on Pāpāmoa Hills and numerous parks and reserves to enjoy. The accessibility to the beach combined with the expansive green spaces makes it an ideal place to live and unwind.

But it’s not just about the physical beauty of the area. It’s what’s on the inside that counts. And Pāpāmoa enjoys a welcoming and strong sense of community. Along with the gentle sea breeze that blows in from the sea and up over the dunes, you can also sense the community spirit.

People smile at each other when they walk by and there’s a sense of friendliness that harkens back to a time before people were rushed off their feet.

With that in mind, of course, its popularity has increased in recent years. The area’s growth is evident in the exciting ongoing developments that are improving the livability and options for people of all ages, who are attracted here by the promise of its lifestyle.

There is a master plan for the community that is being followed. It includes amenities like roading networks, cycleways and walkways, schools, childcare centres, dining options, supermarkets, office spaces, cinema, vet services, churches and retail along with a diverse variety of housing options suited to different lifestyles.

The focus of the plan is on creating a place where people can live and thrive and ensuring that Pāpāmoa remains a welcoming place for everyone.

You could even say it’s choice.

Pāpāmoa’s wonderful world of food

A visit to Pāpāmoa is akin to taking your tastebuds on an gastronomic adventure around the world. Whether you’re after an intimate date night, a social outing or some family fun, you’ll find Pāpāmoa has you covered.

Ali Baba’s House

Open says-a-me if you’re after a tasty Turkish feast. From mouth-watering kebabs to tasty pizzas and sweet baklava you’ll find plenty of culinary treasures here. You can dine in, take away or even have it delivered.

255 The Boulevard, The Sands

Grill and Green

This vibrant, Mediterranean-inspired menu is full of fresh, flavourful dishes like Turkemen Chicken, Open Souvlaki as well as classics like calamari, Scotch Fillet steak and their popular GnG burger. There’s indoor and outdoor seating and a relaxed vibe, or if a seaside picnic takes your fancy, takeaway options are available.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre

Hello Sushi

Hello? Is it sushi you’re looking for? Then roll up to Hello Sushi. Their made-to-order sushi is bursting with flavour. Find classic rolls through to creative new combinations.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre and 255 The Boulevard, The Sands

Henry and Ted’s

We’re hesitant to spread the word about Pāpāmoa’s best-kept secret, but this lively café is a popular favourite with the locals for its chill vibes and delicious breakfasts, brunches and lunches. The sweet treats in the cabinet are forever tempting and the coffee is worth the trip alone.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre

Great Spice Indian

All the flavours of India are brought straight to your table at Great Spice. With a warm atmosphere and a dedication to authenticity, your cravings will be well satisfied whether you’re after a rich curry, a sizzling tandoori, or a fragrant biryani. Vegetarian and vegan options ensure there’s a dish for everyone to enjoy.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre

Pablo

For a Latin-inspired dining experience, Pablo is the place to go. With a menu powered by traditional Brazillian flavours, its modern tapas-inspired dishes are perfect for sharing and enjoying a social night out. Be sure to indulge in one of their expertly crafted cocktails.

255 The Boulevard, The Sands

Papa Mo’s

This Pāpāmoa institution has a well-earned reputation as being the home of serious fun. Offering an extensive menu of pub faves like fish n’ chips, burgers and tacos as well as classic dishes like lamb shanks and pasta. With live music on Fridays and Sundays, quiz nights and other regular events, you can bet there’s always something happening at Papa Mo’s.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre

Matakana: A foodie’s dream

Matakana is well known as a hub for Auckland beach-goers, but, thanks to its flourishing food and beverage scene, it’s now on the map as a highly-desired destination for those beyond the Bombay Hills.

words HAYLEY BARNETT

Matakana, located just north of Auckland, may not look like much on a map – a few buildings lining a roundabout on your way to more populated destinations like Omaha and Leigh. But looks can be deceiving.

By the weekend, the usual 10-minute drive from Warkworth into Matakana becomes an hour-long standstill queue. Everyone’s desperate to get their hands on some of the best food products the region has to offer.

The best way to experience this little food haven is to get in before the weekend crowds by making it your base.

My husband and I came across two local businesses which allowed us to do just that. Canopy Camping Escapes became our base, just an eight-minute drive from the town, and Village Picnic offered a way for us to explore the region through its burgeoning food and beverage producers.

STAY

High on a hill, nestled in native bush, are two secluded glamping sites named Sola and Sokoon. We booked into Sokoon, the Persian of which means tranquility and stillness – exactly what we were craving after dropping the kids at Grandma’s in Auckland.

Besides the WIFI, this accommodation offers the feeling of being completely off grid. To get to the site you need to park your car at the top of the hill and make your way down a steep, narrow track. Top tip: don’t take a suitcase.

Owners Rachael and Ario were kind enough to lend us a backpack to transport a few essentials down to our site. They live on top of the hill with their two daughters in a house they’ve recently restored, with panoramic views of the coast and mountains. They both believe strongly in living as sustainably as possible, and this is evident in the way they’ve set up the two glamping sites. Many of the salvaged materials from their home rebuild have been repurposed into the domes, giving them, as they say, a “sustainable charm”.

Beyond the dome is a sheltered kitchen, bathroom, outdoor shower and bath. Don’t let the sustainability factor fool you, however. The site has everything you need to make your stay comfortable and the interior is every bit as beautiful as the scenery.

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On our way in from Auckland, we stopped at Village Picnic in Warkworth. Philippa Potaka cleverly puts together mystery picnic adventures for those wishing to meet and explore local producers, to taste test the very best of the region. At the end of a fun scavenger hunt you have yourselves a very ample picnic to feast on at your f inal destination. You don’t know what you will be scavenging, or where you’ll end up, which is perfect for these explorers who love good kai. Ours covered the coast from Matakana Village down to Algies Bay and finished in Warkworth. Other packages include the areas of Puhoi, Pakiri and Leigh.

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Matakana Markets

We started at the famous Matakana Markets. Without giving too much away, our first clue took us straight to two popular stores at the market. Joining a long line, which weaved through the shop and out on to the street, we were treated to the delicious aroma of freshly baked bread.

From there, it was on to a chocolatier that specialises in artisan bonbons. After an insightful chat with the store’s very knowledgeable staff, we picked up our parcels from each, stowed them in our chilly bin and moved on to the next clue.

Charlies Gelato

This popular gelato cafe wasn’t on the list, but happened to be home to our next mystery vendor – a place where you can pick your own flowers. The hidden garden sits between a giant wood-fired pizza kitchen and a gelato store, located on Sharp Road, about five minutes drive outside of Matakana Village. We arrived just before lunch and the place was already buzzing with pizza and gelato lovers getting their fix. Thankfully we had the garden to ourselves as we picked a bunch of flowers to take with us on our picnic. As we precariously wedged the jars of flowers between our car seats, we worked out the next riddle and headed towards the coast.

Snells Beach

Next we found ourselves at the water's edge and a home to cute miniature villages, where we picked up some equally cute homemade condiments from a local residence. The next clue took us to a long winding driveway and through to a magical world of art and horticulture. As we took in the sights and sampled an array of beverages on offer, it became apparent that we must start eating our collected edible treasures, so we made the next stop our final picnicking place.

Highfield Gardens Reserve

This reserve at Algies Bay is known as ‘the donkey park’, for the amount of donkeys roaming around the grounds. You can drive through the gates of the park up to the top, which overlooks the whole of the bay. It was the perfect spot for what had become more of a banquet than a picnic. As well as the treats we'd picked up along the way, Philippa had also supplied us with a range of cheeses, crackers, deli meats, pickled vegetables and drinks. We quickly found a picnic table before the rush and got to work on our feast. Later, we found we had more than enough to last us through dinner!

VILLAGEPICNIC.CO.NZ

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Brick Bay Winery

This, we discovered, is one of the area’s most famous wineries. As you enter, art sculptures are dotted along the farmland, and an impressive glass house that seemingly floats above a large pond is home to a beautiful restaurant and bar. The Row, where the tastings take place, sits outside this – a greenhouse-esque structure completely covered in grapevines, which provides a cool and quirky shelter to mingle and taste the best of Brick Bay’s vintages.

Viet-Q Vietnamese

Definitely worth a mention is Viet-Q's Vietnamese food truck. This was recommended to us by our lovely hosts at Canopy Camping. The trailer is tucked between houses on the main road coming into Matakana Village but is hard to miss. The amount of people milling around the area will immediately catch your eye. Head chef and founder Phuong Graham trained in food technology before introducing locals to her authentic Vietnamese flavours. Today it’s one of the most popular eateries in the region. From Banh Mi to Chilli Chicken, this is authentic Vietnamese cuisine at its best.