Seoul searching: A world within

South Korea may not be on every traveller’s radar in Asia but as Jamie Troughton found, beneath the skyscrapers and beyond the gates lies a capital that keeps revealing more, one encounter at a time.

WORDS JAMIE TROUGHTON

It was only on the fourth day in Seoul, when we climbed 270m to the peak of Namsan Park, that we fully understood how insignificant our explorations had been.

Gazing through the haze on another warm autumn morning was a chance to retrace our steps. And there had been plenty of them; 28,000 Garmin-tracked perambulations through the intoxicating South Korean capital on the second day alone.

But our exertions, from what we could see from the summit, appeared pitiful. The ethereal Gyeongbokgung Palace, a 7,700-room 14th-century estate, appeared tiny amidst the office buildings and parks. The 18km Seoul City Wall, encompassing the old city centre and featuring four colossal main gates, seemed to weave a small and delicate thread over the hilly metropolitan terrain.

From our vantage point, everywhere we looked was teeming with city; 360 degrees of skyscrapered, multilayered population. The bit we̓d ‘conquered̓ occupied a couple of degrees of view. We’d daintily dipped a toe into the teeming city waters of Seoul. But what a dip it was.

Tastes, sights, smells, feels, textures and sensations - much about Seoul is like an ADHD delight; it's a symphony of over-stimulation.

We based ourselves in the Jung District, the smallest (less than 10km2) and least populous of Seoul’s 25 districts, but still with the population of Tauranga. Our first meal set the tone — we crossed the road from our hotel, straight into the sprawling Namdaemun Market, which has been operating continuously since 1414, and promptly got lost.

Twisting and turning from street into laneway, from laneway into alleyway, then from alleyway into impossibly crowded, narrow corridors of colour and aroma; restaurant, kitchen and path all blended into one.

We ate a medley of fried fish with gusto, crunching small bones and experiencing for the first time the culinary magnificence of banchan — small side dishes served with most Korean cuisine. From ever-present kimchi (fermented and spiced cabbage), namul (vegetables seasoned with sesame oil, garlic and chilli), danmuji (pickled radish) and gyeran-mari (rolled omelette served in slices), every mouthful was both wildly exotic and perfectly matched.

We dined on delicious Korean BBQ, and on Chimaek, probably one of Korea’s most famous culinary exports of recent years, combining fried chicken (chikin) and beer (maekju). It may have been all the walking but both went down unerringly easily.

The layers of food matched the city too. October was still hot and humid but within six weeks of our visit, temperatures had plummeted from 50°C to –19°C.

Such a wide array of temperatures needs a clever cityscape, and so much of our meanderings were done in three dimensions — vast underground shopping plazas spreading beneath, then spiralling up into the low clouds.

And amidst the concrete and steel are remarkable areas of tranquillity. A large untamed field of wildflowers, sandwiched between two busy avenues, provided an unexpected highlight when apparent masses of bumblebees turned out instead to be hummingbird hawk-moths.

Walking sections of the Seoul City Wall also dipped in and out of serene, stylish neighbourhoods, through parks and erupted into glorious city vistas.

The layered approach is evident in the culture too. Korea, both North and South, is a peninsula seemingly forever being conquered and collected by two neighbouring imperialists, China and Japan.

And while those two nations infuse much of Korean culture, the endemic traditions are rich and vibrant in their own right. Having fought hard, firstly for independence, then for democracy, South Koreans gather, celebrate and protest frequently and spontaneously.

Old news-gathering instincts kicked in hard on a Saturday morning in Seoul, when we rounded a corner to find masses of marchers shouting, trumpeting and waving banners.

Thousands upon thousands of police disembarked from buses, bedecked in riot gear, while spotters lined windows in high buildings as things seemingly built to a crescendo.

A helpful guide at a neighbourhood information kiosk chuckled at our concerns. “It happens every Saturday,” she explained. “Most weekends, the police outnumber the protestors.”

Ironically, mere weeks after our visit, President Yoon Suk Yeol was suspended after trying to impose martial law. Those same protestors were out again in force, this time in earnest, demanding they retain their right to protest and have a voice in their nation.

Meanwhile, we turned another corner during our trip, walked a block and stumbled into the midst of a Joseon dynasty celebration, where a dazzling wedge of performers twirled in traditional costumes, surreptitiously checking coiffures on latest Samsungs.

People who dress in period costume are afforded free entry into the numerous palaces and cultural sites throughout Seoul — it’s a clever way to both promote and immerse tourists and locals alike in tradition.

Those layers continue in architecture and ambience. Sejong-daero, the street that runs through part of downtown Seoul, has Gyeongbokgung Palace at one end and walls of new shimmering office steel at the other. A statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, who saved the country from the brink of collapse during the Japanese invasion of 1592, stands proudly on a plinth, astride both the ancient and the modern worlds.

In the famous Seoul street markets, meanwhile, this translates into a fusion of flavours.

Hangover soup, roast lobster with cheese, an array of spectacular custard-based pastries and deboned chicken claws fit seamlessly next to Zespri kiwifruit and dragon fruit smoothies.

We wandered, for hours, every side street an adventure, every staircase a portal.

Step counts bloomed, as the layers upon layers of a remarkable city unfurled before our dazed eyes.

As nature intended

Escape the city buzz and immerse yourself in wild beauty at Wellington’s lush, predator-free haven.

WORDS LIZ FRENCH | PHOTOS LUCY BROAD, SCOTT LANGDALE + SUPPLIED

Wellington is a thriving metropolis, seat of government and a vibrant capital of corporations, culture and coffee. In complete contrast it also boasts the world’s first fully fenced urban ecosanctuary.

You would not expect to find 225 hectares (more than 500 acres) of regenerating forest and rare birdlife within a few minutes’ drive of Wellington’s CBD. This is Zealandia Te Māra a Tāne (The Garden of Tāne Māhuta, the Māori god of the forest).

The idea of protecting Wellington’s biodiversity began in the 1990s with a plan to manage the preservation of the national assets of the city. Its theme, “Bring the Birds Back to Wellington”, was the inspiration for Zealandia, a sanctuary that is doing exactly that.

The decommissioning of the Karori reservoir allowed this ambitious project to begin in the valley it occupied. The reservoir, with its historic dam crossing, is now an attractive feature of Zealandia. Bringing back the birds and other New Zealand native and endemic species required eradicating and preventing entry by the human introduced mammalian predators that have decimated our native flora and fauna over hundreds of years. To restore a valley to its pre-human state does not happen overnight, hence Zealandia’s far sighted vision. The defining feature was the construction, in 1999, of an 8.6 kilometre-long predator exclusion fence completely surrounding the sanctuary.

Thanks to the fence, and to community conservation efforts like Predator Free Wellington, the 500-year project has progressed dramatically in just 25 years.

Wellington is one of the only cities in the world where bird biodiversity is increasing. Tūī and kererū, once rare, are now an everyday sight around the region. Kākā and kārearea (NZ falcon) are now commonly seen in the city and nearby suburbs.

Zealandia’s vision would not be possible without support, funding and sponsorship. Visiting also contributes to the ongoing conservation work.

So, if you are in Wellington, take a break for a walk in the bush where you will hear only birdsong and where you can witness rare native birds like the hihi (stitchbird), tīeke (saddleback), kākāriki (NZ parakeet) and takahē and see prehistoric tuatara sunbathing. If you take a guided night tour, you may spot the kiwi pukupuku (little spotted kiwi), some 200 of which now call Zealandia home.

Free shuttles to Zealandia leave from Wellington’s isite and the top of the cable car.

VISITZEALANDIA.COM

Clubbing with the girls

A girls’ golf getaway to Ōhope and Whakatāne serves up the ultimate weekend escape.

Planning a girls' weekend that mixes great golf with good food and a bit of beachside downtime?

Ōhope and Whakatāne deliver the goods, whether you're a near-pro or just tagging along for the eats and views.

Tee off and chill out

This trip starts on the green. You’ve got two standout courses close together, each with its own vibe.

Ōhope Beach Golf Links is the kind of course where your phone camera might get more action than your driver. With views of the Pacific Ocean on one side and Ōhiwa Harbour on the other, it’s a classic links course with a relaxed pace, plenty of fresh air and a few playful challenges to keep things lively.

Over and around the hill, Whakatāne Golf Club offers something different. It’s lush, tree-lined and loved for its pristine greens. Ideal if you want a slightly more structured round, or to show off your short game.

Where to stay and slay

Ōhope offers beachside motels, modern apartments and the well-loved Ōhope Beach Top 10 Holiday Park, complete with spas and saunas that are perfect after a day of golf or shopping.

In Whakatāne, stay central with chic motels and easy-access apartments, or find a tucked-away spot if you're craving a quiet wine-and-face-mask night.

A little shopping, a little adventure

Got some downtime between tee times? You’ll find it easy to fill. Boutique stores in Ōhope Village and along The Strand in Whakatāne are great for a slow wander, especially if your crew loves homewares, beachwear and little local gems.

For something more active, explore the trails around Ōhiwa Harbour by bike, take a scenic bush walk on the Nga Tapuwae o Toi trail, or soak up some sun along Ōhope Beach. Feeling adventurous? Book a fishing charter or a kayak trip and make some salty memories together.

Bites and bonding

After your round, the real fun begins. Start at Fisherman’s Wharf in Ōhope for cocktails and seafood with a view, or head to Moxi for great coffee and brunch bites. The Ōhope Beach Tavern brings the post-golf pub vibes, with a side of ocean breeze. Whakatāne steps it up after dark. Grab fusion dishes and fizz at Cigol, hearty burgers and beers at The Comm, or something more refined (and wine list–friendly) at Roquette. Craft lovers, don’t miss Mata Brewery for a tasting flight and Smokin’ Goose for next-level BBQ.

The best kind of girls’ trip

A golf getaway with the girls doesn’t have to be all about the game. Whakatāne and Ōhope serve up the perfect blend of swing, sip, shop and soak, all in one sunny, easy-to-reach package. Whether you're lining up birdies or just enjoying the weekend vibes, it’s a trip worth planning.

WHAKATANE.COM

A fine balance

YOU Travel’s Brenda Stephen experienced sensory exhilaration and soulful serenity on a recent Uniworld trip: India’s Golden Triangle and the Sacred Ganges.

WORDS Liz French

The spectacular Taj Mahal.

How to compare the experience of sunrise at the Taj Mahal with that of visiting the Calcutta Rescue Centre that supports children from the slums? “Wonder and awe for one and touched at the heart by the other,” says Brenda.

This is India, land of colour and contrasts, pace and peace. Uniworld’s tour delves right in by pairing the classic golden triangle of New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur with visits to rural communities off the beaten track. This provides a fine balance between the experience of huge cities with fabulous hotels and that of cruising the Ganges, mooring at villages seldom on travel itineraries.

The trip begins on land with five luxurious nights in the Golden Triangle, staying in Oberoi hotels. Each property exudes its own distinct personality and sense of place which delighted Brenda. “Agra’s Oberoi Amarvilas has a view of the Taj Mahal from every room and is just 600 metres from the Taj itself,” she explains. “Rose petals wafted from the roof as we arrived at Jaipur’s Oberoi Rajvilas, which is set around an ancient Shiva temple on 32 manured acres.”

The hotels are oases of calm after daily excursions by tuktuk, rickshaw or coach, with local guides, where you embrace the unique architecture, atmosphere and culture of each destination without worrying about the logistics.

Five-star floating

Then it’s onto your floating hotel after a flight to Kolkata to embark Uniworld’s Ganges Voyager II, the last word in riverboat luxury. The boat holds 56 passengers, 36 crew and colonially inspired suites with vantage points for watching the light over this everchanging river, sacred and central to life in the fertile and densely populated Ganges Delta.

This is home for the next seven nights. While the ship sails gently up the Ganges you settle into serenity, sip cocktails on the deck, dine on an Indian and international menu with ingredients from the local villages you visit enroute and even learn Indian culinary skills in cooking demonstrations. Informative nightly talks prepare you for your daily adventures, which include a river port dating to 1809 with magnificent Hindu temples, an authentic artisan market in a riverside village and the “Garden of Happiness”. Local guides complement the vast knowledge of the onboard experts.

Happiness is also wellness on the Ganges Voyager II, with daily yoga classes on the sundeck and Ayurvedic spa treatments and massages. “Very soothing after a day’s sightseeing!” Brenda enthuses.

At YOU Travel and Cruise the experienced staff are not about enabling you to simply tick off your bucket list. The question, “What do you want to get out of it?” is as important as, “Where do you want to go?”

If India really appeals, but you are a little apprehensive, and if you want to revel in its infinite variety without sweating the small stuff, group travel is the answer. Uniworld’s boutique itinerary exposes you to India’s myriad of sights, smells and sounds while providing a peaceful refuge to recover and recharge ready for the next foray into the unknown, with every detail thought of.

While this journey only covered a small corner of India, it has whetted Brenda’s appetite for more. “Because I was with a group, I did not find it daunting, quickly becoming comfortable with India’s ‘normal’,” she says. “Despite the luxury aspect of this tour, a big takeaway for me was the spirituality of the people and the joy in simplicity,” she says. “India is like Africa. It gets under your skin.”

YOUTRAVELBETHLEHEM.CO.NZ

Valley of light

UNO editor Hayley Barnett sees Rotorua in a beautiful new light at Mārama, Te Puia’s unforgettable geothermal nighttime experience.

PHOTOS Graeme Murray + Supplied

As dusk slowly settles over the geothermal valley at Te Puia in Rotorua, the day’s steam softening in the low bask of the sun, the magic of this place becomes more and more apparent. Beams of light begin to burst through the haze while we sit in Pātaka Kai, Te Puia’s renowned restaurant, enjoying our dinner on the heated deck.

Laser lighting has been meticulously set up across the 70-hectare site, to showcase more than 500 geothermal features, many of which are usually only accessible during the day.

On the launch night of the Mārama Geyser Light Trail, the hush across the valley is about to blossom into an immersive interplay of light and music that will transform Te Puia from darkness into a world of light. But, I soon discover, this is more than a light show; it’s an experience which showcases whakapapa and years of culture.

“Everything we do here is to uplift te ahurea Māori,” says special events manager Reanne Poutama. “With Mārama, Te Puia wanted to create something magical that would reflect our whenua and our stories in a way we’ve never done before.”

It’s clear from the outset that Te Puia has achieved this lofty goal. From the moment you step through the entrance to the 1.5km trail, you’re guided by sound and story. Setting the tone is musician Maisey Rika’s ambient waiata. Her otherworldly voice follows us as we head down the path.

On this night, we’re lucky enough to witness Maisey herself singing atop a point that stands high above the valley, overlooking the geysers and geothermal activity, the lights flickering through the steam behind her. The effect is ethereal and spine tingling.

“Maisey’s songs are the soundscape for the whole experience,” explains Reanne. “We’ve tried to partner our lighting in a way that amplifies each waiata.”

The 10 scenes have been designed to reflect the natural environment, which is infused with Māori storytelling. The trail winds through glowing Māori artworks, bubbling mud and towering trees. At every bend, the valley becomes a theatre. Laser lights ripple like currents above Puarenga Stream, while geothermal steam is lit from within, mimicking ancestral breath. One of the most memorable scenes evokes Tangaroa, atua of the sea, his story told through undulating blue lasers and swelling sound. Standing there, it almost seems as if the sea has risen into the valley.

Midway, the geothermal terrace offers a natural pause. Beneath the steam, natural hot rock seats offer warmth and a moment to breathe, with Pōhutu Geyser in the distance.

Self-paced and child friendly, the walk is around 60 minutes, taking into account all the stops and meanderings. The trail features hosts at certain points along the way, which allows visitors to move at their own pace.

Family accessibility was always part of the vision.

“The inspiration first was to provide something for Rotorua at nighttime for families,” she explains. “But we also hope that it’s accessible to everyone, including locals, internationals and families. It’s priced differently to our usual offerings because we really wanted whānau to be able to come and enjoy it.”

Along the trail are a number of artworks created by Māori artists, including glowing light boxes designed by students from Te Takapū o Rotowhio (the National Stone and Bone Carving School) at the on-site New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute.

“They’ve designed light boxes that tell our traditional stories,” says Reanne. “We’re weaving in our people’s talents and creative flair.”

That includes Mikaere, a Te Puia guide who created a mural of the story of Mārama using glow-in-the-dark and metallic paints that come alive under UV light.

“He’s amazing,” Reanne says proudly. “He would never usually get to showcase this kind of work, and now it’s part of the trail.”

Another highlight comes near the end of the walk, towards Pikirangi Village, where a forest tunnel glimmers and soft lasers rain down like an aurora, creating a canopy of light. As we gaze upward, everyone around us slows their steps. This is the magic of Mārama. Resting in the final notes of Maisey Rika’s voice, we look out over the valley under real stars. In this moment, it’s hard not to feel connected to te ao Māori. It’s a reminder of how deeply this experience is rooted in wairua.

While Te Puia’s daytime experiences have long celebrated Māori culture through kapa haka and guided storytelling, Mārama is something altogether different.

“This is something very new here,” Reanne says. “We’re usually quite traditional... This is us mixing those traditional elements with modernity. And even if you come during the day, you won’t see any of this. It’s exclusive to Mārama.”

Having grown up in Rotorua, I know this area well, but the whole nighttime experience felt like seeing the valley for the first time. Mārama feels meaningful. It’s a walk through the unseen stories of the land, guided by light and music.

Reanne reflects: “It’s a way to feel connected to our place, to our people and our stories.”

Mārama runs until April 2026, with entry from 7:30pm (Sept–Nov) and 8:30pm (Dec–April). See the website for the Matariki 2026 relaunch. Tickets are $49 for adults and $25 for children.

TEPUIA.COM

Wild Eastern roadie

Somewhere past Ōpōtiki, where the coastline starts its slow exhale and State Highway 35 begins to wind and dip like it’s dancing, you’ll find a different rhythm. Welcome to Tairāwhiti Gisborne.

Need a change of pace? This East Coast loop from the Bay of Plenty to Gisborne and back through the Waioeka Gorge is the kind of trip that offers wide roads, coastline and a few surprises along the way. Give it three or four days, and you’ll get much more than you bargained for, along with some very decent stories.

DAY ONE: R IVERS , HORSES AND THE OPEN COAST

Hit the road early from the Bay and follow the coast east. By mid-morning, you're in Motu country, with its remote, green landscapes and winding rivers. Hop on a jet boat with Motu River Jet for a ride that’s part thrill, part history lesson.

Next, swap horsepower for actual horses at Standfast Horse Treks in Te Kaha. These aren’t your standard tourist trails. You’ll cross rivers, ride through native bush and get a salty breeze off the sea. Go for a short trek or stay overnight and wake up to birds and surf.

Stay: Stay in Te Kaha, Waihau Bay or Te Araroa, which has a range of accommodation options from hotels, motels, holiday parks and baches.

DAY TWO: A SLOW CRUISE TO GISBORNE

The drive to Gisborne along SH35 isn’t long, but you’ll want to stop often. The route passes through quiet bays and towns like Waihau Bay and Tokomaru Bay, where everything moves slower, but in a good way.

As you head down the coast, pull into St Mary’s Church in Tikitiki, then be sure to try a pāua pie in Tokomaru Bay before continuing south to walk along Tolaga Bay Wharf.

BONUS ADD-ON: If you’ve got time, book a guided tour up Maunga Hikurangi near Ruatoria. It’s one of the first places in the world to see the sun, and the mountain has deep cultural significance to Ngāti Porou. Stand among the sacred pou (carvings) and watch a once-in-a-lifetime sunrise unfold before you.

DAY THREE: INTO THE BLUE

Once in Gisborne, head to Dive Tatapouri for a close encounter with wild stingrays on the reef. No tanks or tricks, just wading into their world. Later, head inland to Eastwoodhill National Arboretum, home to over 135 hectares of diverse, world-class botanical collections.

Stay: From boutique motels and vineyard cabins to farm stays and holiday parks, Gisborne has a great range of places to stay. Or keep it coastal and fall asleep to the sound of the surf.

DAY FOUR: RAILBIKING

If you’re up early, start the day with a famous East Coast sunrise. There’s nothing quite like it. Afterwards, ease into a leisurely brunch at Flagship Eatery or Zephyr in Wainui, both beloved local favourites. Experience Gisborne Railbikes and pedal along a disused railway line, winding through orchards and soaking in stunning coastal views.

Enjoy an afternoon at one of the local wineries. Matawhero, Wrights and Bushmere Estate each offer unique tastings and mouth-watering food to enjoy.

Evening: Try one of the many amazing dining options, such as Crawford Road, Tahu or check out a unique evening experience at Dome Cinema.

HEADING HOME

Loop back to the Bay through Waioeka Gorge, where the road snakes between thick bush and river cliffs. It’s a scenic end to a trip that packs more into a few days than you'd expect.

TO P TI P S

• Bring layers, swim gear, decent shoes and a curious attitude.

• Choose your level of comfort. Accommodation ranges from campsites and retro motels to lodges.

• If you’re going during summer or school holidays, book ahead.

TAIRAWHITIGISBORNE.CO.NZ

Island of the gods

Whether itʼs surfing, trekking or meditating that floats your boat, Bali proves its a tropical destination for one and all.

words NICKY ADAMS

Before booking a trip to Bali I asked around incessantly for opinions and found that people very much fell into two camps. Comments ranged from ‘I absolutely love it, would go every year if I could’ versus ‘too much traffic, too commercial’.

After a little deliberation matched with airfares that made it cheaper than a trip to Fiji, our family decided to take the plunge.

Arriving in Denpasar airport late afternoon, the general lack of clear instruction in immigration was confusing, but introduction of E-gates meant those with children of 14 and over could avoid all queues and zoom through. A little pre-planning meant we had booked a driver to pick us up (anyone who has been to Bali will usually be able to pass on a contact) and because traffic is notoriously bad post 4pm we had decided to stay cheaply close to the airport in Kuta with a view to starting the trip properly the next day. Our driver (Wayan) returned to pick us up at 9am, and without much idea of what we really wanted to do, other than end up in Ubud, Wayan took charge of the immediate itinerary and we hit the road.

Weaving through streets where around every corner there is a stunning temple, meant that even without a specific tourist attraction in mind, everything felt exciting and vibrant. Ubud is both a town and a district. The area is thick with rainforest and known for its breathtaking terraced rice fields, while also being an arts centre and cultural capital. Bali is predominantly Hindu in faith (with Muslim, Christian and Buddhism all much smaller denominations), and Ubud is home to many ancient relics of religious significance. Stopping at one of the ‘Big Swings’, where you take your life in your hands while you fly through the air over steep drops down to lush green rice terraces, the breathtaking scenery gives the combined benefit of adrenalin rush and top tourist attraction rolled into one. The same location offered a journey through the process of manufacturing Luwak, the well-known Balinese coffee produced via the intestines of a civet. Yes, the coffee beans are eaten and pooped out by civets. Freakish though it sounds, the product is delicious, and was one of many superb Balinese coffee blends – I’ll admit to returning with an addiction for strong filtered coffee.

Ubud can be done as a day tour, however I would highly recommend it as a destination worthy of longer. The streets are packed with sights – amongst the many, while here we visited the authentic Neka Art Museum, traditional Art Market, Saraswati Temple and the magnificent Ubud Palace. Shop after shop offers multiple artisan gifts, along with jewellery and clothes – and a covered market is an emporium of delights. It takes a while to get the hang of the bartering system – tempering guilt at haggling with the desire not to be ridiculously ripped off, makes this a learning curve. Shopping and temples aside, Ubud boasts some amazing restaurants and multiple boutique hotels which are of the highest international standard but at a fraction of the price. As a family of five we preferred two bedrooms, and as one of our children has a nut allergy we wanted to be able to prepare our own food, which we could achieve by staying in the villa part of a hotel. This came with a lounge, kitchen and our own pool. At the higher end of the accommodation options, the service (cocktails) and facilities were unsurpassed. There was also a great deal of reassurance knowing the hygiene standards were exacting and water used in everything was purified, so ice was safe and plentiful. Here in Ubud there are plenty of accommodation options available, at a price point to suit any budget or individual needs.

With monkeys roaming the streets, pilfering from store owners and tourists alike, there is an authenticity to Ubud that, despite the crowds, cannot dull its charm. I had heard differing opinions on the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (too touristy/biting monkeys), but desire to experience it outweighed the fear of a showdown with a fearsome primate. Forewarned is forearmed – and I would say that if you have few ‘removables’ and treat the monkeys with respect you would be unlucky to be targeted (although one did steal my daughter’s ice block out of her hand as we left). Watching them swing around you, frolic in front of you, tend to tiny babies and generally go about their business was nothing short of magical.

Writer Nicky and the family at their villa, located between Legian and Seminyak.

Knowing the 40-minute drive to the coastal town of Seminyak would take much longer than this in traffic, combining a change of location with more sightseeing seemed a great option. Our trusty driver came to pick us up, and together we worked out a route, which took in Tibumana (the not-so-secret secret waterfall) and Tirta Empul Temple, which is considered the most sacred temple amongst the Balinese Hindu community. All the time weaving through scenic countryside of rice fields and multiple other less known attractions. Feeling that we had well and truly ticked the tourist box, once we arrived at our beach destination, there was no guilt in the following days centred around mooching, shopping, eating, drinking and enjoying the blazing heat. If beach is important to your trip, then there are breathtaking beaches to discover, and Bali is a well-known surf destination.

Seminyak/Legian beach is a cool spot, by night dotted in multi-coloured bean bags and cranking out music to chill to as the sun goes down. But for beach alone it would not have the biggest pull. However, the area itself is everything you could want and more. The shopping is frenzied but friendly, the hassling is minimal and in good spirits – if you want a more refined experience there is a mall surrounded by street after street of high-end boutiques. There are also some key restaurants and hotels to visit; Double Six, with its sunset roof top bar makes a wonderful evening hang out. If you want to try local fare but are feeling cautious, then go mad on the tropical fruit – passion fruit is not as we know it, coming in at much sweeter, watermelon can be found with bright yellow fresh, rambutan (lychees) are sweet and flavoursome. We loved the mangosteen fruit, a segmented milky white flesh, the snake fruit (salak) was crunchy and almost chestnutty. If you really want to try something unusual then look no further than the durian – I literally couldn’t explain the taste other than as custardy caramalised onion. Not one I’ll be adding to my fruit salad.

We rented a villa (Andari Villas) that was close to the famous Double Six area; located between Legian and Seminyak, while central its position on a side street meant we experienced the best of both worlds (as well as have our cleaning, catering and washing seen to by a resident maid, and security at the end of the street). Outside the hub-bub – which we could dip into and then out again at will; inside was a sanctuary spread over three bedrooms, two lounges, five bathrooms, kitchen and private pool.

The utter tranquility meant we could stay and chill to our hearts’ content. If massage is your thing, then Bali will be your heaven – of all the things that are ‘affordable’ massage knocks the rest out of the park. We were able to have a masseuse come to the villa for an amazing poolside massage, an hourlong treat costing the same as a couple of coffees in NZ. Of course, tipping, while not expected, is something you want to do – when we tend to be cashless it’s worth trying to remember to always have something to hand.

No matter if your idea of the perfect holiday is active resting or totally zoning out, Bali really does bring it all to the table. Plan ahead and work out what you want from the trip, pack the hand sanitiser and it really is a glorious island paradise.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Other highly recommended spots include Canguu and Sanur.

• Surfing opportunities are next level – Kedungu, Padang Padang, Medewi.

• Restaurants to try – Sardine (Kerobokan), Chandi (Seminyak)

• We travelled at the start of the dry season, some rain, but sightseeing was amazing regardless.

• Add activities such as cook schools, meditation, or yoga retreats – go by recommendations.

• Pack medication. We took charcoal tablets, but arm yourselves with painkillers for stomach ache, and something for nausea.

• Scooters are a fun, efficient way to travel – check out reviews for rentals.

• Waterbom Bali is family fun.

• We stayed in a variety of accommodations with prices starting from $200 per night for five inclusive of breakfast for two rooms in the hotel and three rooms in the villa.

• While we only managed to get away for a week, I would recommend at least 10 days.

• Go by accommodation recommendations if possible as quality varies hugely.

Organise visas in advance as they can be tricky. If it feels daunting, ask an expert

– travel agent or small operator. Locally Sandy Crooks (Clarke Rd Kitchen),

arranges and leads exclusive group tours to Bali.

Winter wonderlands

While many of us dream of ditching the winter coats and chasing the sun, there’s something irresistibly charming about leaning into the season instead. Think snow dusted villages, steaming mugs of mulled wine and the soft crunch of fresh powder underfoot. Tanya Chaffey of Chaffey and Turner Travel Associates in Tauranga shares her top picks for destinations that make the cold well worth it.

Whether you're dreaming of frosty escapades in the heart of Finland's Lapland, carving pristine powder in Japan's renowned skiing destinations, or soaking in Iceland's geothermal allure, my guide to the ultimate winter holiday will transport you to where the festive spirit and the magic of the season create an unforgettable experience. From the artistry of ice sculptures in Harbin to the wildlife wonders of Canada's snowy terrains, each destination offers its unique charm and promise of an enchanted winter.

Finland

Venturing into the heart of Finland, especially around the Arctic Circle and Lapland, feels like stepping right into a winter fairy tale. Rovaniemi, the official hometown of Santa Claus, is your year-round hub for all things Christmas, and meeting the real-deal Santa and Mrs Claus at the Santa Claus village is pure magic. Try snuggling up in an igloo for the night. If you're lucky, you'll get front-row seats to the Northern Lights right from your bed. There’s loads of adventure activities right on your doorstep, too. Hop on a snowmobile and take in the stunning winter landscapes. Or opt for a gentler journey with a reindeer or dog sled ride. Japan The snow in Japan is really something special. Places like Niseko and Hakuba are known for their light, dry powder — often called “Japow” — and offer terrain for all skill levels. The ski season generally runs from December to April, though dates vary depending on location and snowfall.

Many resorts have ski-in/ski-out access, and all-inclusive options that include everything from steaming bowls of ramen to international dishes. Take a break from the slopes to explore an onsen village. Or visit the snow monkeys warming themselves in natural hot springs.

Iceland

Winter in Iceland feels slower, quieter, and more surreal, with only a few hours of pale daylight and long, starlit nights. It’s an ideal time to soak in the country’s geothermal pools — the Blue Lagoon is the most famous, but there are dozens of others tucked into lava fields and coastlines across the country. Christmas here comes with its own folklore. Iceland’s holiday season is rich with stories of elves and the 13 Yule Lads, mischievous characters who arrive one by one in the lead-up to Christmas. The blend of natural drama and cultural tradition makes a winter visit something you won’t forget.

Harbin, China

In Harbin, ice becomes art. Each year, the city hosts the world famous Ice and Snow Festival, where towers, sculptures, and even entire buildings are carved from blocks of ice and lit up in vivid colour. There's an ice amusement park, too, and food stalls serving everything from spicy skewers to hearty dumplings. Russian influence lingers in the city’s architecture and cuisine, adding another layer of interest. Temperatures can drop below –35°C, so dress for deep winter.

Canada

Few places do winter like Canada. Whistler is a favourite for skiers and snowboarders, with varied terrain and a lively après-ski scene. Think alpine lodges, open fires, and a reliable snowfall that draws visitors from around the world. For wildlife lovers, Churchill in Manitoba is one of the best places to see polar bears in their natural habitat. Or head further north on an Arctic cruise, where the frozen wilderness might offer glimpses of walruses, Arctic foxes, and even narwhals.

TRAVEL-ASSOCIATES.CO.NZ

Staying power

A chance conversation has grown into a hugely successful business thanks to a focus on core values and positive word of mouth. MyStays owner Elle Knight shares her journey as the short-stay accommodation service moves into the Bay.

photo JESSICA LEE PHOTOGRAPHY

Elle Knight didn’t set out to become a business owner. She was simply looking for a little light relief. With a newborn son, who was born deaf and requiring bilateral cochlear implants, and a husband recovering from a broken leg, things were tight. Then came a message from her cousin: “Want to borrow some DVDs?”

While dropping them off, her cousin mentioned her partner was looking to sell a small property management business in Taupō. He managed eight apartments, but they were ready to move to Vanuatu.

“I said to my husband, ‘I reckon that would be a good gig for me,’” Elle recalls. She saw potential – flexible hours that worked around the kids and enough income to cover essentials.

With no experience but a strong head for business, Elle joined forces with her mother-in-law, Denise, to purchase what was then called Luxury Lakeside Accommodation.

Elle’s years in banking had armed her with valuable systems knowledge and operational know-how – skills that would quietly lay the foundation for the scalable business they would later build.

“I’m very much a jump in and learn how to swim person,” she smiles. “Back then, we didn’t know what success would look like. It was exciting to think we had something that could make a real difference.”

In the early days, they did it all themselves, including the cleaning in the mornings, laundry at home, and manually managing bookings in the afternoons.

“It worked for about six months. But Taupō’s a small town. Word gets around.”

Before long, property owners began knocking. The business grew quickly, driven purely by word of mouth. For the next six years, growth was steady and organic, all based on one simple idea: genuine, high-quality service for both guests and homeowners.

“It got to a stage where we looked at each other one night and thought, ‘How has this happened?’” Elle laughs.

What had happened was remarkable. They’d built a reputation that larger, offshore-run platforms couldn’t match, rooted in care, consistency and personal connection. Property owners felt genuinely supported, and guests returned for the reliably high standard across every property.

When Denise stepped away, Elle and her husband took over completely. But they were fielding a new kind of request. Guests and owners alike asked if their services were available outside Taupō. The answer, eventually, became MyStays.

Launched in January 2024 as a sister brand to Lakeside Accommodation, MyStays was created to grow the business while maintaining the personal touch and high standards that made Lakeside a success.

While Lakeside continues to manage 60 plus properties in Taupō, the brands now work together in both Taupō and Kinloch, with a combined portfolio of over 110 homes.

“Taupō is still our base, but we realised there was a real demand for our kind of service in other regions,” says Elle. “MyStays lets us do that – scale up, while still keeping it personal.”

The two brands have since grown to manage 145 plus properties across New Zealand, including more than 25 homes in the Coromandel’s most sought-after beach destinations.

In every region, the heart of the operation is the same: a local, trusted team providing hands-on care. That’s where the GEM model (short for Guest Experience Manager) comes in. Each GEM is a local, supporting homeowners and guests with boots-on-the-ground knowledge and attention. Taupō and Kinloch have three GEMs working alongside the Lakeside team. The Coromandel is supported by another trio, with more roles in the pipeline as expansion continues.

“It’s really important to us that our service feels local,” Elle explains. “Our GEMs make that possible. They’re not just staff – they’re trusted partners who help us maintain that consistent experience we’re known for.”

That consistency is key. Whether guests book a MyStays property in Auckland, Whangamatā, or Napier, they know exactly what to expect: clean, stylish accommodation and responsive service. The Bay of Plenty is the latest region to join the MyStays map. It wasn’t initially part of Elle’s plan. She believed it was already well-served by boutique operators. But after hearing from multiple property owners dissatisfied with impersonal management companies, she saw room for MyStays to add value.

“It’s a stunning place. I’ve enjoyed family time and attending events here,” Elle says. “It’s vibrant and exciting, with great food and shopping, and it really is a year-round destination.”

Despite its scale, Elle still sees MyStays as a family business at heart. Her team is tight-knit, and many of them have grown within their roles as the company has scaled.

“There’s a real sense of belonging here,” she says. “That gives us an authentic connection to our owners and our guests. We believe in what we do, and when you see that connection happen, it’s pretty special.”

From a borrowed DVD collection to a nationwide property portfolio, Elle Knight’s journey proves that small beginnings can lead to big things.

MYSTAYS.CO.NZ

Waikato showcase

Crafting elegance

N.E.S is celebrating 25 years of timeless, New Zealand-made fashion. Creative director Kate Harris teams up with Robyn Stinson of ObyRyn, merging their distinct design visions to create something extraordinary. Known for versatile pieces with a refined edge, N.E.S prioritises local craftsmanship, offering women style, comfort and individuality. Here's to 25 years of evolving, yet enduring, fashion.

NESBOUTIQUE.CO.NZ

Light the sky

Balloons Over Waikato's ZURU Nightglow is Hamilton’s biggest night out, attracting over 30,000 attendees for a spectacular evening. Enjoy hours of live entertainment, carnival rides, food trucks, and the breathtaking hot air balloon glow show lighting up the sky. The night culminates in a dazzling SkyCity Hamilton fireworks display. A family favourite? Walking inside a real hot air balloon. This ticketed free event takes place every March.

BALLOONSOVERWAIKATO.CO.NZ

Global success

Four mates, a few gins, and some bad jokes led to the creation of Clark Lane Distillery. Their Piko Gin blends native Pikopiko fern with pure Pirongia spring water. With a Silver at the Asia Spirits Challenge™ and Gold at the Gin of the Year™ awards in London, Piko Gin promises global success and sophisticated taste. Grab your bottle now.

CLARKLANEDISTILLERY.CO.NZ

Game on

SkyCity Hamilton is the home of entertainment in the heart of Hamilton. With 20 tenpin bowling lanes, an exciting mix of restaurants and bars, a casino, live entertainment, conference and event spaces for hire plus plenty of on-site parking, there is something for everyone. R20 for entry to the casino.

SKYCITYHAMILTON.CO.NZ

Relax and recharge

Just a short walk from the airport, JetPark Hamilton Airport Hotel and Conference Centre is a welcoming stop along your journey. Family-owned and Kiwi-operated, it offers a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy art-filled spaces, fresh seasonal dishes made with local ingredients, and the convenience of complimentary parking and Wi-Fi. Whether you're in town for a meeting, a break between flights, or a peaceful overnight stay, the hotel’s modern facilities and friendly atmosphere ensure a comfortable stay. Let JetPark be a simple, memorable part of your travels. JETPARKHAMILTON.CO.NZ

A region for the ages

A family getaway to the Waikato uncovered a treasure trove of activities for all three generations.

words HAYLEY BARNETT

The Waikato seems to be undergoing something of a travel renaissance. With a growing number of new experiences and attractions popping up in and around Hamilton and Cambridge, it's quickly becoming one of the North Island’s must-visit regions. From the world’s largest organic tea plantation to New Zealand’s most visited attraction, Hobbiton™, and the foodie hub that is MADE, there’s now so much to see and do that fitting it all into a single weekend feels like a challenge.

Fortunately, Hamilton is just a two-hour drive from Tauranga, making it perfect for a quick getaway. Our family managed to pack in a wide range of family-friendly activities, and I even snuck away with Mum for a day of more grown-up indulgence. As it turns out, the Waikato is also an ideal destination for the over 50s, with highlights like the spellbinding Hamilton Gardens, scenic riverside walks, bustling weekend markets, and charming countryside homesteads offering something for every kind of traveller.

Zealong Tea Estate

I wouldn’t call Mum obsessive, but if there’s one thing she’s truly passionate about, it’s tea. So it was only f itting that we made a stop at Zealong, just outside of Hamilton, home to the world’s largest internationally certified organic tea plantation. At Zealong, tea isn’t just a beverage, it’s a way of life. The passion among the staff is palpable, and from the moment we arrived, the experience felt more like a refined wine tasting than a simple visit to a tea farm.

We were lucky to run into Zealong’s CEO, Gigi Crawford, who welcomed us and shared her extensive knowledge of tea. She walked us through the company’s inspiring journey, from a modest patch of tea plants nearly 30 years ago to an award winning, globally respected organic tea label. Among its many accolades, Zealong recently received the UK Tea Academy’s prestigious ‘Lifetime Achievement Leafie’, a testament to the team’s dedication.

Mum, naturally in her element, impressed everyone by correctly identifying different teas and blends, while I fumbled through with minimal knowledge. We were then taken on a tour of the building and the plantation, learning about the Chinese history of tea. Sculptures of important historical figures dotted along the path leading up to the Tea Room showcased a lengthy history dating back almost 5000 years.

At the Tea Room, we participated in a traditional tea ceremony, then were served what can only be described as the best high tea of my life. Zealong’s French pastry chef treated us to an incredible array of delicious pastries, sandwiches and sweets, all designed to accompany various types of tea blends. It was fair to say this was one of Mum’s top holiday highlights.

Woodlands Estate

Just four minutes down the road from Zealong lies Woodlands Estate, a sprawling 98,000-acre property established in 1872. At its heart stands the beautifully restored Homestead, originally built around 1875 as a manager’s residence and crafted largely from native Kauri timber. The surrounding gardens are home to some huge botanical treasures, including New Zealand’s largest Eucalyptus tree. We wandered along peaceful tracks that weave through the estate’s lush gardens and trees, then stepped inside the Homestead, where rooms remain just as they were when the last family moved out in the early 1900s. Next door, a charming café offered the perfect spot to recharge after our meanderings.

Hamilton Gardens

Another epic outing can be found at the Hamilton Gardens. If you haven’t been yet, you’re definitely missing out. Recently upgraded, the Gardens are now even more welcoming. One of the biggest changes is the addition of the Gallagher Visitor Centre, which opened last year. It now serves as the main entrance to the Enclosed Gardens and includes a café, extra seating, and event spaces.

Whether you're young or just young at heart, it’s easy to spend an entire day exploring. Each garden offers a memorable, educational experience. I knew the kids would love the gardens, so we picked them up on our way there from Woodlands Estate. As predicted, they were especially enchanted by the Surrealist Garden, a whimsical dreamscape where everything is larger-than-life, making you feel like you've stepped into a storybook.

They also loved the Ancient Egyptian Garden, which transports you 4,000 years back in time to a sacred temple garden. And no visit would be complete without a stop at the Destination Playground, packed with a treehouse, slides, and a stage perfect for imaginative play.

I would highly recommend taking a tour with a guide who explains everything you need to know about each garden. It beats fumbling through the brochure and displaying your lack of historical knowledge in front of the kids.

MADE

Discovering one of the country’s best culinary hubs is nestled inside a block of shops in Hamilton East was not on my bingo card this year. But lo and behold there we were sampling some amazing food from some amazing artisans and shopping up a storm. The vibrant atmosphere proves the Waikato’s creative food scene has well and truly taken its place as a top destination for foodies. We dined at Reggie’s, a cute Italian restaurant serving up authentic dishes in a cool diner with views of the city. Then stopped in for gelato downstairs at Little ‘Lato. We were back the next day to do our grocery shop at the stalls – a great old-timey market experience in itself.

Te Whare Taonga o Waikato Museum & Gallery

It was recommended the kids visit Waikato Museum’s interactive science centre, Exscite, which has recently been revitalised into two zones: Exscite: Home, exploring everyday science in a fun, hands-on way, and Exscite: Taiao, focused on Aotearoa’s natural environment. Among the standout features is a 30-million-year-old giant penguin fossil discovered locally, as well as digital activities like a touch-screen forest where kids can animate their own bird designs. All made for a great rainy day adventure.

Cambridge’s new boutique gem

Set to open later this year, The Clements Hotel brings new life to one of Cambridge’s grand old buildings. Carefully restored with a nod to its 19th-century roots, the 29-room boutique hotel mixes old-world charm with modern luxury. Think plush rooms, a speakeasy-style bar, garden suites, and standout dining at the Gallery Restaurant. With five-star service, locally crafted gin, and stylish spaces to relax or celebrate, The Clements is set to become the go-to place for discerning travellers. The Clements is offering a grand opening special with 15 percent off room only rates for stays until September 30, 2025, subject to availability.

Lake Te Koo Utu Walk

A day trip to Cambridge was clearly on everyone’s holiday agenda during a stunning autumn weekend. We joined the crowds, ducking in and out of charming boutiques before grabbing some sushi for lunch. Craving a bit of peace and nature, we decided to explore beyond the town centre. Leaving the car parked, we strolled down to Lake Te Koo Utu, tucked right in the heart of Cambridge. I’m a little embarrassed to admit I hadn’t known it was there until a lovely woman at the isite Information Centre pointed us in the right direction. The loop around the lake is a beautiful, mostly shaded walk that takes about half an hour. Halfway around (if you're entering from the town side), there’s a playground and a garden perched on the hill. The kids had a blast weaving through the rose bushes and swinging their way through the park.

Camjet Extreme Tour

Just beneath Victoria Bridge, tucked along the banks of the Waikato River, you'll find Camjet – an adrenaline-packed adventure perfect for thrill-seekers and laid-back explorers alike. This high-speed jet boat ride pushes you out of your comfort zone while offering fascinating insights into the river’s history and ecosystem. Our driver, Aaron, kept us guessing with sharp twists, sudden spins, and unexpected stops to share curious facts, some of which may or may not have been entirely true. Along the way, we spotted a hawk snatch an eel mid-flight, only to lose it as it soared over the dense bush, and even caught glimpses of giant goldfish gliding near the shore. The entire ride lasted about 45 minutes, and by the end, we were soaked, and grinning from ear to ear.

Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari

On our last day, we took a bit of a detour before heading home. Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari is a must-visit eco-sanctuary just outside of Te Awamutu. Enclosed by one of the world's longest pest-proof fences, this ancient forest is a haven for native wildlife, including kiwi, takahē, and tuatara. You can book a guided walk, but we decided to head in on our own. We climbed treetop viewing platforms and walked the serene forest trails while learning about conservation efforts to restore the natural ecosystem on signs along the path. Without predators, the wildlife are surprisingly friendly. A North Island robin followed us for part of the walk and happily posed for photos just an arms-length away. The whole experience was a great chance to experience New Zealand’s biodiversity as it once was.

Choice as

Pāpāmoa was recently crowned ’New Zealand’s Choicest Suburb’. With its recent developments and array of foodie offerings, it’s easy to see why.

photos ALAN GIBSON + SUPPLIED

The people have spoken. And what the people have said is that Pāpāmoa is officially ’New Zealand's Choicest Suburb’.

Every suburb in Aotearoa was eligible, but the Bay’s popular beachside location won, earning more than 50,000 public votes in the competition hosted by Trade Me Property.

But what was it about the unassuming suburb that won people over? Well, the natural environment is what truly sets Pāpāmoa apart. There’s the amazing beach, the recently redeveloped walks on Pāpāmoa Hills and numerous parks and reserves to enjoy. The accessibility to the beach combined with the expansive green spaces makes it an ideal place to live and unwind.

But it’s not just about the physical beauty of the area. It’s what’s on the inside that counts. And Pāpāmoa enjoys a welcoming and strong sense of community. Along with the gentle sea breeze that blows in from the sea and up over the dunes, you can also sense the community spirit.

People smile at each other when they walk by and there’s a sense of friendliness that harkens back to a time before people were rushed off their feet.

With that in mind, of course, its popularity has increased in recent years. The area’s growth is evident in the exciting ongoing developments that are improving the livability and options for people of all ages, who are attracted here by the promise of its lifestyle.

There is a master plan for the community that is being followed. It includes amenities like roading networks, cycleways and walkways, schools, childcare centres, dining options, supermarkets, office spaces, cinema, vet services, churches and retail along with a diverse variety of housing options suited to different lifestyles.

The focus of the plan is on creating a place where people can live and thrive and ensuring that Pāpāmoa remains a welcoming place for everyone.

You could even say it’s choice.

Pāpāmoa’s wonderful world of food

A visit to Pāpāmoa is akin to taking your tastebuds on an gastronomic adventure around the world. Whether you’re after an intimate date night, a social outing or some family fun, you’ll find Pāpāmoa has you covered.

Ali Baba’s House

Open says-a-me if you’re after a tasty Turkish feast. From mouth-watering kebabs to tasty pizzas and sweet baklava you’ll find plenty of culinary treasures here. You can dine in, take away or even have it delivered.

255 The Boulevard, The Sands

Grill and Green

This vibrant, Mediterranean-inspired menu is full of fresh, flavourful dishes like Turkemen Chicken, Open Souvlaki as well as classics like calamari, Scotch Fillet steak and their popular GnG burger. There’s indoor and outdoor seating and a relaxed vibe, or if a seaside picnic takes your fancy, takeaway options are available.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre

Hello Sushi

Hello? Is it sushi you’re looking for? Then roll up to Hello Sushi. Their made-to-order sushi is bursting with flavour. Find classic rolls through to creative new combinations.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre and 255 The Boulevard, The Sands

Henry and Ted’s

We’re hesitant to spread the word about Pāpāmoa’s best-kept secret, but this lively café is a popular favourite with the locals for its chill vibes and delicious breakfasts, brunches and lunches. The sweet treats in the cabinet are forever tempting and the coffee is worth the trip alone.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre

Great Spice Indian

All the flavours of India are brought straight to your table at Great Spice. With a warm atmosphere and a dedication to authenticity, your cravings will be well satisfied whether you’re after a rich curry, a sizzling tandoori, or a fragrant biryani. Vegetarian and vegan options ensure there’s a dish for everyone to enjoy.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre

Pablo

For a Latin-inspired dining experience, Pablo is the place to go. With a menu powered by traditional Brazillian flavours, its modern tapas-inspired dishes are perfect for sharing and enjoying a social night out. Be sure to indulge in one of their expertly crafted cocktails.

255 The Boulevard, The Sands

Papa Mo’s

This Pāpāmoa institution has a well-earned reputation as being the home of serious fun. Offering an extensive menu of pub faves like fish n’ chips, burgers and tacos as well as classic dishes like lamb shanks and pasta. With live music on Fridays and Sundays, quiz nights and other regular events, you can bet there’s always something happening at Papa Mo’s.

Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre

Matakana: A foodie’s dream

Matakana is well known as a hub for Auckland beach-goers, but, thanks to its flourishing food and beverage scene, it’s now on the map as a highly-desired destination for those beyond the Bombay Hills.

words HAYLEY BARNETT

Matakana, located just north of Auckland, may not look like much on a map – a few buildings lining a roundabout on your way to more populated destinations like Omaha and Leigh. But looks can be deceiving.

By the weekend, the usual 10-minute drive from Warkworth into Matakana becomes an hour-long standstill queue. Everyone’s desperate to get their hands on some of the best food products the region has to offer.

The best way to experience this little food haven is to get in before the weekend crowds by making it your base.

My husband and I came across two local businesses which allowed us to do just that. Canopy Camping Escapes became our base, just an eight-minute drive from the town, and Village Picnic offered a way for us to explore the region through its burgeoning food and beverage producers.

STAY

High on a hill, nestled in native bush, are two secluded glamping sites named Sola and Sokoon. We booked into Sokoon, the Persian of which means tranquility and stillness – exactly what we were craving after dropping the kids at Grandma’s in Auckland.

Besides the WIFI, this accommodation offers the feeling of being completely off grid. To get to the site you need to park your car at the top of the hill and make your way down a steep, narrow track. Top tip: don’t take a suitcase.

Owners Rachael and Ario were kind enough to lend us a backpack to transport a few essentials down to our site. They live on top of the hill with their two daughters in a house they’ve recently restored, with panoramic views of the coast and mountains. They both believe strongly in living as sustainably as possible, and this is evident in the way they’ve set up the two glamping sites. Many of the salvaged materials from their home rebuild have been repurposed into the domes, giving them, as they say, a “sustainable charm”.

Beyond the dome is a sheltered kitchen, bathroom, outdoor shower and bath. Don’t let the sustainability factor fool you, however. The site has everything you need to make your stay comfortable and the interior is every bit as beautiful as the scenery.

CANOPYCAMPING.CO.NZ/SOKOON

DO

On our way in from Auckland, we stopped at Village Picnic in Warkworth. Philippa Potaka cleverly puts together mystery picnic adventures for those wishing to meet and explore local producers, to taste test the very best of the region. At the end of a fun scavenger hunt you have yourselves a very ample picnic to feast on at your f inal destination. You don’t know what you will be scavenging, or where you’ll end up, which is perfect for these explorers who love good kai. Ours covered the coast from Matakana Village down to Algies Bay and finished in Warkworth. Other packages include the areas of Puhoi, Pakiri and Leigh.

EAT

Matakana Markets

We started at the famous Matakana Markets. Without giving too much away, our first clue took us straight to two popular stores at the market. Joining a long line, which weaved through the shop and out on to the street, we were treated to the delicious aroma of freshly baked bread.

From there, it was on to a chocolatier that specialises in artisan bonbons. After an insightful chat with the store’s very knowledgeable staff, we picked up our parcels from each, stowed them in our chilly bin and moved on to the next clue.

Charlies Gelato

This popular gelato cafe wasn’t on the list, but happened to be home to our next mystery vendor – a place where you can pick your own flowers. The hidden garden sits between a giant wood-fired pizza kitchen and a gelato store, located on Sharp Road, about five minutes drive outside of Matakana Village. We arrived just before lunch and the place was already buzzing with pizza and gelato lovers getting their fix. Thankfully we had the garden to ourselves as we picked a bunch of flowers to take with us on our picnic. As we precariously wedged the jars of flowers between our car seats, we worked out the next riddle and headed towards the coast.

Snells Beach

Next we found ourselves at the water's edge and a home to cute miniature villages, where we picked up some equally cute homemade condiments from a local residence. The next clue took us to a long winding driveway and through to a magical world of art and horticulture. As we took in the sights and sampled an array of beverages on offer, it became apparent that we must start eating our collected edible treasures, so we made the next stop our final picnicking place.

Highfield Gardens Reserve

This reserve at Algies Bay is known as ‘the donkey park’, for the amount of donkeys roaming around the grounds. You can drive through the gates of the park up to the top, which overlooks the whole of the bay. It was the perfect spot for what had become more of a banquet than a picnic. As well as the treats we'd picked up along the way, Philippa had also supplied us with a range of cheeses, crackers, deli meats, pickled vegetables and drinks. We quickly found a picnic table before the rush and got to work on our feast. Later, we found we had more than enough to last us through dinner!

VILLAGEPICNIC.CO.NZ

EAT

Brick Bay Winery

This, we discovered, is one of the area’s most famous wineries. As you enter, art sculptures are dotted along the farmland, and an impressive glass house that seemingly floats above a large pond is home to a beautiful restaurant and bar. The Row, where the tastings take place, sits outside this – a greenhouse-esque structure completely covered in grapevines, which provides a cool and quirky shelter to mingle and taste the best of Brick Bay’s vintages.

Viet-Q Vietnamese

Definitely worth a mention is Viet-Q's Vietnamese food truck. This was recommended to us by our lovely hosts at Canopy Camping. The trailer is tucked between houses on the main road coming into Matakana Village but is hard to miss. The amount of people milling around the area will immediately catch your eye. Head chef and founder Phuong Graham trained in food technology before introducing locals to her authentic Vietnamese flavours. Today it’s one of the most popular eateries in the region. From Banh Mi to Chilli Chicken, this is authentic Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Larger than life

Nicky Adams explores the timeless appeal of Disneyland and discovers its magic isn’t only reserved for the kids.

It’s hard to put your finger on just what makes theme parks so magical, when most of us are way past our Disney delight days.

‘We’re doing it for the kids,’ mutter the adults as they race behind the super-sized Mickey Mouse, not a child in sight. The fact is it doesn’t matter what age you are, there is something wonderful about being transported into another world, where everything is bright, fun, and essentially make believe. To quote Walt Disney, ‘You’re never too old to be young.’

I think the sheer fantasy is what makes me love it so much – the larger-than-life characters, the ‘cast members’ (staff) dressed up as a 1950s Barbershop Quartet belting out random a capella on Main Street, the sight of a Mark Twain-style steamboat making its way down the Mississippi. The wild imagination of it all is nothing short of joyous.

Ironically, I hate roller coasters, but there’s a million and one other rides to try, from flying through Neverland on the low-level Peter Pan’s Flight to the exhilaration of gunning down enemy craft as you take the helm on the Star Wars’ Millennium Falcon Smugglers Run.

Disneyland Anaheim opened in 1955 and is made up of Disneyland and the latterly added California Adventure (which opened in 2001); between the two parks they cover every single age and stage.

Both parks are divided into ‘lands’ and tactically feature rides and references to the original Disney days but have kept up to date with all the latest stories and characters, so no genre is left untouched. There’s the old-worldly fairground feel of the ferris wheel in California Adventure (where you can choose between a carriage that stays static or one that swings), or there’s the high-tech Rise of the Resistance, the latest simulation Star Wars ride in Disneyland. In between you have the fan favourites of the indoor rollercoaster Space Mountain, river rapid ride Grizzly River Run and of course the dark speed of the Radiator Springs Racers.

The fantasy world that you’re about to step into starts before you enter the parks themselves. Downtown Disney District serves as the soft launch; connecting the two parks and the three hotels, it’s free to get into (although you do need to go through security) and is a lively and beautifully landscaped, easy-to-navigate outdoor shopping and dining area that hums with entertainment. It’s also home to a dangerously delicious Wetzel Pretzel café – try at your peril. This is the area from where you enter one park or the other – the Park Hopper ticket will gain entrance to both on the same day. Exploring both parks will likely take you a good couple of days, although with opening hours going between 8am and 10pm it’s possible – if exhausting – to simply keep going, to get the most out of your ticket entrance. However, if you do, brace yourself to cover an awful lot of ground during your day.

Visiting in October, the weather was cool in the morning and evening, but by 10am had warmed up to high 20s, which may sound sweltering, but low UV saved burning. Saying that, it wasn’t a heat you wanted to stand around in for too long, so a queue- jumping Fast Pass was invested in at an extra cost.

While this certainly saves plenty of time in the queues (you can book an advance time slot) it’s by no means a perfect system. We found it incredibly frustrating that you could only hold one slot, and when the time shown came up it often gave you a later time slot than shown on the Disney app. The waiting, I’m afraid, is unavoidable. On the plus side, the queues are incredibly civilised and, other than slowing you down, could just be accepted as part of the experience. The cost is another aspect to be considered. A weak NZ to US exchange rate, along with post-Covid price rises, doesn’t go unnoticed when on top of the ticket price comes a day of theme park treats. Saying that, while there are plenty of in-park refreshment stops, packing your own water bottles and snacks is worthwhile.

As I mentioned – as someone that is terrified of rollercoasters, you might think that it would be hard to find things to do. Oh contraire! Weirdly, although I’m rollercoaster averse, I found I was born for the simulated rides, which (I was quietly smug about) other far gutsier family members struggled with.

My pick would without question be Soarin’ Around the World. If I could have done it all day long, I would have. Strapped into a simulator you whizz above the African plains, Eiffel Tower – even tropical islands – all the time being infused with the scent to match.

Sounds weird I know, but it was incredible. Another goody was the Pirates of the Caribbean – I lost count of how many times we all did this. A couple of wee water drops was as scary as it got, but an underground journey through the land of the pirates was more fun that you can imagine with something different to see every time. The detail was so mesmerising it came as no surprise to learn that it was the ride that inspired the movie. The adrenalin junkies did Big Thunder Mountain Railroad on repeat, loving the thrill of the ride, but everyone agreed you needed nerves of steel for the Guardians of the Galaxy.

Formally called Hollywood Tower of Terror, involving stomach-churning drops. Nothing would possess me to do this.

All the while you wander – or race depending on your timeframe – through the parks, there will be a million other things going on around you. Bands marching followed by carriages carrying Cruella de Vil and her henchmen, Disney Princesses amid eager young children waiting for a hug, Storm Troopers arresting bystanders. And then there’s the parades – crowds stand aside while highly decorated dancers dance and singers sing. The excitement stretches well into the night, with light shows and weekend firework extravaganzas. Just when you think you’re all out of energy, you might find that last bit in the tank for another round of rides.

Without doubt the easiest way to maximise your time is to stay at one of the three Disneyland Resort hotels – the newly vamped up Pixar Place, Grand Californian, or original Disneyland Resort. A stay here will ensure you get early access to the parks before any other guests arrive and gives you the ability to bob back and forth to regroup throughout the day. It also extends the magic as the hotels are home to more characters, round reception corners and you might bump into Chip and Dale – peep above your poolside cocktail and you may spy Goofy on his way to wow the diners at the Goofy’s kitchen restaurant. In the worlds of Walt Disney: “Here you leave today and enter the world of yesterday, tomorrow and fantasy.”

Adventure in comfort

Luxury and family-friendly travel don’t always go hand in hand. But travelling with children doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the finer things in life. Tanya Chaffey from Chaffey and Turner Travel Associates is UNO's new travel columnist, this time offering her expert advice on navigating luxury travel with the whole family.

photos SALINA GALVAN + supplied

Embarking on travel with children creates life-long memories that you and your family will treasure for years to come.

It does, however, require a bit more planning to balance relaxation with family-friendly needs. Here are a few tips to get you going.

• When it comes to choosing which destinations to visit with children, look for spots that offer both premium amenities and child-friendly activities. Think resorts with dedicated childrens' clubs, private villas or hotels offering family suites and family activities.

Luxury resorts in places like the Maldives, Bali or the Caribbean offer specialised kids' programmes and family activities, ensuring there’s something for everyone. Also, consider destinations with easy access to nature, such as safaris in Africa, or mountain retreats in Europe, which can engage children while offering relaxation for parents.

• Invest in private tours or excursions. A private guide for a day trip, a yacht charter, or even private spa treatments can offer both family-friendly activities and some quality adult downtime. This can be especially helpful if your child has specific interests or needs (eg a zoo tour for animal lovers). Luxury hotels sometimes offer VIP access to major attractions, meaning you can avoid long lines and crowds, which makes it easier with children.

• Many cruise lines offer amazing inclusions for children, like standing waves, rock climbing walls and even dodgems. And the wide variety of cuisine onboard means there will be options for even the fussiest eaters. Be sure to enlist the help of a travel agent, who can suggest the best cruiseline that will work for you and your family.

• When booking flights, ask your travel advisor to book with an airline that has child-friendly amenities (like bassinets, entertainment and children's meals). Many airlines offer priority boarding, extra legroom, and specialised children's kits to make the flight more enjoyable.

• Finally, even with the best planning, travelling with children can bring surprises – meltdowns, sickness and the like – so remain flexible. Having an advisor on hand means there is always someone available to accommodate last-minute changes or requests. But staying relaxed and patient is the key to enjoying the experience!

Tanya Chaffey is a specialist for premium travel for the Bay of Plenty. Having been in the industry for 17 years, she’s explored 65 countries, with many more on her bucket list, and is a master at planning journeys off the beaten path.

She visits hidden gem destinations and finds experiences that give her an incredible perspective on the culture of a place. One of her best travel experiences was visiting Paro Taksang, or Tigers Nest Monastery, in Bhutan and most recently visited the Five Stans of Central Asia.

No matter your travel plans, whether it's a multi-generational trip of a lifetime, or a romantic seaside escape, the team at Chaffey and Turner Travel Associates will make your holiday special.

Celebrate the Eastern Bay

If stunning scenery and sun-filled days aren’t enough to draw you to Whakatāne and Ōhope this autumn, event season certainly will – and there are plenty to choose from.

Flavours of Plenty events

Scales and Ale’s
Saturday, April 5

An evening of exceptional flavours at Fisherman’s Wharf. Indulge in a four-course dinner, each course paired with craft beers sourced from the region. Enjoy delicious, locally grown produce while taking in the stunning harbour views. This event is a must for beer lovers and foodies, offering a fusion of taste and ambiance. Don’t miss out on this unforgettable culinary experience, showcasing local brews and seasonal ingredients.

Tamariki Foodie Fair
Saturday, April 5

Treat your youngsters to a day of delight at the Tamariki Foodie Fair – the ultimate foodie event for children, offering fun, sensory experiences such as blind tasting, nut cracking, face painting, stilt walkers and food demonstrations for kids by kids. Food trucks will be there to serve kids’ favourite treats throughout the day at Wharfside overlooking Ōhiwa Harbour. Treat your Tamariki to a day of delight – the perfect day out for families. Free entry ensures everyone can join in, with delicious treats and selected activities for purchase.

Late Summer Farm Kitchen
Saturday, April 5

A unique farm-to-table experience celebrating the joy of cooking, sharing and savouring local produce. Set on a beautiful family farm with expansive gardens and a hand-built barn, this long summer lunch is part workshop, part cooking class, and part indulgent feast. Guests will enjoy a hands-on experience before sitting down to a long, leisurely lunch built around the best seasonal produce the farm has to offer. Whether a seasoned cook or a beginner, there’s the option to get involved or simply relax with a glass of wine and soak up the rural charm while enjoying great food, local wines, and warm hospitality.

Discover Wainui's Food Secrets Tour
Saturday, April 12

Join this exclusive food tour through Wainui, where you’ll explore the region’s best-kept edible secrets. It will take you to five carefully selected stops, each with its own remarkable story. From the oyster farms of Ōhiwa Harbour, where cultural significance meets sustainable farming, to the unlikely truffle success story, the journey unfolds as you meet local producers and taste their creations.

A Taste of Wainui Marketplace
Saturday, April 12

Celebrate the first-ever Wainui Producers Market, held in the picturesque Waingarara Valley. This free, family-friendly event showcases the region’s best food producers, offering fresh oysters and organic produce to truffles, olives, honey, macadamia nuts, berries, ice cream and wood-fired pizza. A licensed bar will be available for beer and wine purchases, while live entertainment adds to the fun atmosphere. Enjoy lunch, shop, and discover unique local produce in this scenic, community-focused event.

Cray Tails and Cocktails
Saturday, April 12

Enjoy four delicious crayfish dishes, each paired with a cocktail, all served in a laid-back atmosphere at Fisherman’s Wharf. With local produce, stunning waterfront views, and a relaxed vibe, this evening is all about indulging in tasty food and having fun. Whether you're a seafood fan or just looking for a casual night out, this event is one you won't want to miss.

To purchase tickets to any of these events, visit:

FLAVOURSOFPLENTYFESTIVAL.COM

Retail paradise

If you make a weekend of it, be sure to save time for some retail therapy. Whakatāne and Ōhope have a selection of beautiful boutiques, featuring well-loved national and international brands.

Whakatāne

Whakatāne’s CBD has come of age in recent years. The attractive and bustling town centre makes it easy to roam with a range of boutique shops. After some retail therapy, soak up the plentiful sunshine at one of the outdoor eateries. Veer off the main drag and you’ll also find a few hidden gems.

TOP PICKS

Him.Her

Tomorrow Store

Presentables

The Good Life

Tūī Aotearoa

Rosita's

Ōhope

Although it can be hard to drag yourself away from the waves of New Zealand’s most-loved beach, it’s worth taking a pit-stop at Ōhope Village to enjoy the laid-back shopping scene. Distinct and 4Artsake both offer beautiful giftware, art, clothing and accessories.

Make your bed

George Street Linen is one of those rare retail gems that is a delight to discover. Browse the ultimate selection of New Zealand-designed premium bed linen and bedding in a charming, light-filled store, abundantly stocked with inspirational textiles, home fragrances, and giftware. Their knowledgeable, friendly team prides themselves on hands-on service and passion for the brand.

110 The Strand
GEORGESTREETLINEN.COM

Style by design

Stocking top New Zealand and international labels – Deadly Ponies, Kathryn Wilson, NYNE, Elk, Lolly's Laundry, Zoe Kratzmann, Briarwood and POM Amsterdam among them – Capiz is centrally located in the heart of the shopping precinct. Its carefully curated range has made it Whakatāne’s boutique destination of choice for designer fashion, footwear, handbags and accessories.

156 The Strand
CAPIZ.CO.NZ

Other events

West End Wiggle 2025
Friday, April 11 – Sunday April 13

A traditional longboard festival presented by Salt Air Surf, this weekend includes lots of surf, art and music. This will be the event’s sixth year running.

Farming Like Grandad & Country Fair
Saturday, April 12

Experience farming as it used to be. Clydesdale horses, sheep shearing, farm animals, tractors, and farm machinery, food, music and much more for a fun day out for the whole family.

Ōhiwa Oyster Festival
Saturday, May 17

Don't miss out on this unforgettable celebration of oysters and local culture at Wharfside Ōhope. The opening ceremony will blend oyster appreciation with cultural celebration. Savour mouthwatering oysters, explore local food stalls, and groove to live entertainment from 12pm to 4pm.

Ramping up

Shaun Boucher is an internationally acclaimed skateboarding champion who wants to help others become one too. And that includes you.

words Karl Puschmann | photos Katie Cox

“You could almost classify it as like a gladiator pit,” Shaun Boucher smiles. “There’s big grandstands, the energy’s high, the crowd’s cheering, people are clapping and you’re standing at the bottom.”

On this sunny morning at a café in Pāpāmoa, we’re not discussing mortal combat. Instead, Shaun’s describing the electric atmosphere of a skateboarding competition.

“You do your last run, they announce you’ve won and you hold your board up and everyone’s clapping… it’s hard to describe that feeling and how special it is.”

It may be hard to articulate but it’s a feeling the 31-year-old pro skateboarder knows well. The Mount Maunganui local has been competing at the highest level of skateboarding, both here and internationally, for over a decade. Ask him what competitions he’s won and he struggles to recall them all. 

“I’ve won the New Zealand Bowl skateboarding title about six times in
a row — potentially maybe seven. I won the New Zealand Park skateboarding championships about two years ago in Gisborne. I’ve won the Australian Bowl Riding championships and the Australian Street Skating championships,” he says. “Probably the biggest one was the
Dew Tour over in Long Beach in California, about four or five years ago. I’d been meaning to go back, but then COVID hit and the contests shut down.”

Shaun’s journey to become one of Aotearoa’s most celebrated skaters
has incredibly humble beginnings. And, funnily enough, doesn’t even
start on a skateboard.

“I was actually rollerblading. But my brother, his friends and my close friends were all skateboarding so I felt like I was the black sheep,” he grins. While they didn’t peer pressure him into trading the blades for a deck, they did subtly encourage him to give it a go.

“I’d go down to the Mount skateboard ramp and they slowly but surely brought their spare or old skateboard parts down until I had enough to eventually assemble a skateboard.”

Having cobbled his first skateboard together from these recycled parts
he quickly fell in love with the sport and the social aspect it provided.

“The big reason I got into skating was the freedom it gave me. It was a great form of transport and I could get everywhere,” he says. “And, I felt
like people could resonate with me. Skateboarding is like an identity as well.”

It soon consumed him. He not only hung up his rollerblades but also his rugby boots, preferring the challenge of constantly improving and bettering his abilities as opposed to competing against rival teams. 

“I grew up in the Bayfair Estate area and the skate park was right there.
So I used to skate before school, after school, and every weekend religiously,” he says. “I just lived down at the skate park.”

This, he says, is the secret to his success. It’s not supernatural talent or blessed good fortune, just good old-fashioned hard work.

“If you do want to get really good at something, you’ve got to put countless hours in. I wasn’t your naturally talented skateboarder. I struggled early on. However, hard work beats talent at the end of the day, if talent’s not ready to work hard. I channelled that mentality and started to develop my skills and get better and better.”

Now, he’s helping other people develop their skills. When he started skating there wasn’t any way to learn other than by doing. Over the years he’s watched people who had potential gradually lose interest in the sport after becoming discouraged at their lack of progress. He figured if they had proper guidance and instruction they’d flourish instead of feeling frustrated. So he decided to do something about it.

Having recently returned to the Mount after living in Australia’s Gold Coast for the past seven years he started Mana Skateboarding and began offering private and group skateboard lessons at the Mount Maunganui skate park. 

“I found it really profound when I came back. I was like, ‘I'll just start slow,’ and build up my clientele but I got swamped straight away.”

Then he laughs and says, “I was not expecting that.”

Right now he’s teaching kids as young as five through to teenagers. There’s even a bunch of parents reconnecting with their teenage pastime. 

“They see their kids doing it and see how much fun they're having and
they want to have that fun too. I feel like we're cultivating a community
down there.”

As well as teaching the fundamentals to beginners and pro techniques to more experienced skaters, Shaun also emphasises skating’s wider benefits.

“I teach the basics and get them enjoying the pure joys of what skating can bring to your life. It’s creative, builds confidence and gives people a sense of purpose.”

An unexpected offshoot is that teaching skating is also doing the same for him. 

“I definitely feel like I’ve stepped into that ‘teacher’ realm and like I’ve owned it,” he says. “That feeling of helping someone achieve something makes you feel so good. It’s inspiring and makes you want to do a better job the next day and be a better teacher and role model for these kids.”

Then he smiles and says, “I’m really enjoying it. I feel like it’s taking me on a pretty good journey.”  

manaskateboarding

Island bliss

UNO editor Hayley Barnett experiences the ultimate family getaway: Fiji’s Plantation Island Resort, where luxury meets value with endless fun for kids and adults alike. 

As a family of four, it can be difficult to find a place to holiday that won’t break the bank and that caters to both parents as well as kids. 

Most of the time, you either have to bake in a tent or come up with $700 per night for a cabin in the middle of a campsite. But did you know there’s a gem in the Pacific Ocean that offers everything you could want from a family holiday in a five-star location for a fraction of that cabin price?

Plantation Island Resort has been around for more than 50 years and is still owned and operated by the family who built it − and it shows. Everything here is set up with families in mind. Convenience, comfort, and most importantly fun were obviously all high on the agenda when it came to setting up this island paradise.

We booked five nights in October and by the end of our holiday we could all agree it wasn’t nearly enough. Here’s a rundown of everything we managed to squeeze in between sunbathing and cannonballing around and into all four pools. 

DO

Handline fishing

Our seven-year-old, Oscar, often pressures us to organise a fishing trip, but we don’t own a boat and we aren't what you'd call ’boat people’. So the Handline Fishing Tour seemed as good a time as any to tick it off the list and satisfy him for a wee while. It turned out to be the highlight of the whole trip for Oscar. He caught eight fish! Of course, they were of the tropical variety and he had to throw them all back, but he didn’t mind. And Dad was relieved to get the beautifully-patterned creatures back into the water where they belonged. 

The inflatable water park is a must for kids.

Hair braiding

For regular vacation goers at Plantation, hair braiding is a bit of a holiday tradition, especially for young girls. It takes around an hour and 40 minutes, during which time you can choose to have your own treatment or simply order a cocktail while gossiping with the staff. My daughter, Poppy, opted for the corn rows over the box braids. She walked away very pleased with her choice and took every opportunity she could to get an unhealthy amount of selfies by the pool.

Underwater Museum 

One of the best parts of Plantation Island is the most hidden − its reef. It lies so close to the resort that you can simply swim out from the shore, or in our case practically swim out from our bure. Once you get there, a quirky underwater museum awaits snorkellers, full of fish and coral. There are golf buggies, a dining scene with a table and chairs, and various other objects to attract fish to the area. One of the resort’s resident marine biologists, John, swam out with us to make sure we found the museum and the reef itself. We had swum out the day before but had completely missed the reef, so it was great to have a guide show us exactly where to go. John explained that the pieces in the museum were put there to encourage coral conservation and growth. Plantation Island is big on conservation, so much so that they created what is called the ‘Bula Reef’ − a giant man-made coral reef in the shape of the word ‘Bula’, which means ‘hello’ in Fijian. It’s the world’s largest underwater coral display. Although it’s not a public snorkeling site, Dulcinea Tours do once-per-week visits where guests can view the reef from above the water.

Taking full advantage of the free water equipment

Afternoon Delight snorkelling tour

There are a few different privately-owned charter companies offering boat trips around the surrounding islands. We jumped on a trip with Dulcinea and headed out to Castaway Resort’s reef for some more adventurous snorkelling. A short boat ride took us along Malolo Island, giving us a glimpse into island life for those residing on the island as well as other resorts. Our driver pointed out a small island to our left – ‘Google Island’. Apparently, the search engine company owns it. We jumped off the boat close to Castaway’s water park and snorkelled over the coral reef. The reef itself was large and colourful and teeming with tropical fish and marine life. We spent half an hour there then moved on to Funky Fish Surf Resort for some drinks and snacks before heading back to our slice of paradise.

Hayley’s family poolside at Plantation.

Paddleboarding, kayaking and water park

Most of the water activities and gear is free for guests and can be picked up from the boat shed at the main beach of the resort. We took advantage of the paddleboards and kayaks and journeyed out to the water park with the kids. They would have stayed there all day if they could, but kids under eight need supervision and after a couple of hours it was time for my daily cocktail on the beach. There’s also a new Jungle Water Park which costs FJ$10 per person and consists of two trampolines, a slide and Tarzan swing. My kids could barely handle the bouncy castle water park so we flagged the more extreme version.

Kids’ Club

On arrival we were given a timetable of all the Kids’ Club activities, of which there are many. We highlighted those that the kids were keen on and planned our days around it. There is everything from tie dye t-shirt making to crab hunting, and the staff were very warm and friendly, so we felt good about leaving them in their capable hands. 

Lomani Island Resort & Spa

When the all-day fun fests get a little much for parents, it’s nice to know there’s an adults-only sanctuary right next door. Plantation has its own spa with plenty on offer, but Lomani gives you that extra peace and quiet you might need for some time out. We escaped halfway through our trip to experience the couple’s massage right on the beach. The idyllic surroundings and the resort itself was just the calming activity we were looking for. Lomani Island Resort is right now building a brand new spa with four rooms, an ice bath, plunge pool, sauna and relaxation deck − to offer a full wellness experience − which will open in February 2025.

EAT

Copra Restaurant

This is the main restaurant that offers a buffet breakfast until 10am every day. It’s also the best restaurant in terms of views. Situated right on the beach, guests can opt for the veranda-style dining room and watch the kids’ activities on the beach at night. It does offer buffet dining every night, however, so if you prefer a la carte, the other restaurants might be more preferable.

Copra Restaurant.

BOWL

BOWL only opened in October 2024 and is already one of the most popular eateries on the island. Offering a variety of fresh poke bowls using local fish, tuna and chicken, it’s the perfect poolside meal for adults wanting to break away from the usual family fare of burgers and pizza for lunch.

Black Coral

This is a must-dine at least once on your trip. We ended up there three times, not just for the delicious food, but also for the convenient location. It’s right next to the Kids’ Club and there’s a playground directly in front of the dining area. The steaks (including tuna) are cooked on hot volcanic stone, making this a unique dining experience.

Gourmet delights at Black Coral.

Tavola

Tavola Restaurant and Bar is the newest dine-in restaurant, opening only a few years ago. It’s next to our favourite pool spot and became a santuary for our family to swim and dine. The restaurant offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a variety of different cuisines, from Italian to Thai.

Flame Tree Restaurant

This eatery is located at Lomani Island Resort & Spa next door, the adults-only retreat. It offers a lot of local ingredients and plenty of options. The dinner menu is great for meat lovers, and the cocktails are on point.

TOP TIPS

Join the Facebook page

‘We Love Plantation Island Resort Fiji’ offers advice from guests past and present, and allows you to ask any burning questions you might have before your trip.

Bula Bikes

These are the resort bikes that are suitable for all ages. The kids loved riding around the island on these and it gave them a bit of freedom to get about on their own.

Lookout point

There’s a track behind the resort that winds up to a lookout point, which offers views across the island. It only takes about 15 minutes to get up, but wear good walking shoes as it can get a little slippery on the track.

Water stations

You will be given water bottles on arrival. Save them and fill them up at the clean drinking water stations around the resort. There’s one next to the Coco Hutt which we used each morning.

Liquor store

The resort recently opened its own liquor store so you can stock up and have a wee tipple in your room from time to time.  

plantationisland.com

Growing places

Four years of work is beginning to bloom at Hamilton Gardens. We find out about what’s sprouted up and the seeds already planted for the future.

words KARL PUSCHMANN

Italian Renaissance Garden.

If you’ve never visited the Hamilton Gardens before, you’re probably wondering what all the fuss is about. 

That was certainly true for me when last summer my wife suggested we spend a family afternoon there. An afternoon! It seemed a dubious suggestion. How could a garden possibly hope to hold our children’s interest – and if I’m being completely honest, mine as well – for longer than 10 minutes? I voiced my concerns and she just smiled and said, “they’re really good,” and that was that. After lunch we packed the kids in the car and went. 

It turns out she had dramatically undersold the place. Walking through the enclosed gardens was a complete delight that enchanted even this naysayer. It felt like walking into a fantastical picture book, where wonder and surprise was planted around every corner and charming detail bloomed all around. 

Each of the 18 different themed gardens is thoroughly unique, and represent key moments in world history when there was a shift in civilisation. Some take cues from history, like the Italian Renaissance Garden which shows how man had learnt to tame nature through intricate trellis, grand courtyards and careful manicuring, others highlight different cultures approach to gardens, such as the The Japanese Garden of Contemplation, which offers peace and tranquility amongst its carefully placed stones, while others are full of whimsy and imagination like the Surrealist Garden, where reality twists in oversized and unexpected ways. Weaving throughout, an unmistakable Aotearoa flavour.

Japanese Garden of Contemplation.

It was a fantastic and fantastical afternoon. One that I thought could not be improved upon. But, again, the Hamilton Gardens has proven me wrong. 

Just a couple of months ago Hamilton Gardens unveiled the brand new Entry Precinct to the exquisite Enclosed Gardens. This modernisation of the entrance area can be considered the fertile soil for the future growth of the gardens, the plans of which are already mapped out and designed through to 2050. 

“This is the realisation of four years of work and gives us the foundation for moving forward,” Lucy Ryan, the Hamilton Garden’s director says. “We have the new visitor centre, we’ve refreshed the whole pavilion and improved visitor wayfinding. We took the opportunity to better embed the Mana Whenua narrative as well. It was an amazing project to be involved in.”

Lucy explains that the Garden’s popularity was the impetus for the project. As Hamilton’s most popular attraction up to 5000 visitors per day were coming through the doors in peak season. The old facility simply couldn’t cope with the numbers.

The new centre also allowed the Gardens to implement their long-signposted change to instigate an entry fee for those over 16. Hamilton residents can still visit for free after registering for a MyGardens Pass. Lucy says 40,000 Hamiltonians have already signed up for the pass. 

Introducing this system may have been the pragmatic reason for the upgrade, but it wasn’t the only one. “We wanted to ensure the Mana Whenua story and perspective was woven throughout the entry precinct area design,” Lucy explains, saying that was something that was incredibly important to the team and the Gardens itself. “And the other big overarching one, as corny as it sounds, was that we needed a world-class entry to match our world-class gardens. It was all about the visitor experience.”

Now that the Entry Precinct has blossomed, Lucy and her team are now cultivating the seeds that have already been planted for the Garden's next three big expansions. Fortunately, there won’t be another four-year wait for the first of these to bloom.

Hamilton Gardens Visitor Centre.

“The designs and the civil infrastructure have been done. The groundwork and concrete work, all that sort of stuff for all three gardens is in place already,” she says. “Our big focus now is the Medieval Garden. That should be open by this time next year.

“And then it’s right onto the Pasifika and Baroque Gardens. The designs are completed, so it's just the build factor.”

Each of these will bring a new chapter to the gardens. The Medieval Garden explores the spread of Christianity and charity, the Pasifika Garden focuses on the navigators who explored the seas and the age of navigation, while the Baroque Garden will be a showy affair that highlights how technological advances led to the spectacle of wealth during that period. 

Medieval Garden.

This leads nicely into the wealth of events and activities happening at the Gardens over the summer. Every Sunday from 4pm to 8pm Gourmet in the Gardens on the Rhododendron Lawn sees the Garden’s floral scents complemented with the sizzling aroma of food trucks and the rich bird song is accompanied by live entertainment.  The popular audio guides and Highlights tour add richness to the experience, and the night-time Pekapeka tours – bat-spotting – is held on select Tuesday and Thursday evenings throughout November to March. While the bats can sometimes be shy, Lucy says they’re big chatterboxes that you’ll hear as you walk through the gardens under the stars.

“You have little bat radars to help try and spot them in the zone,” she says, before adding, “And as you walk along the path looking for them, you'll see glow worms all along the river path, which is really cool.”

And, of course, the Hamilton Arts Festival will be running from the end of February through to March, taking over the whole precinct area and putting on shows within the enclosed gardens as well.

It all contributes to making Hamilton Gardens much, much more than you might expect. “It’s beautiful and it’s gorgeous and it’s delightful with a huge amount of narrative and stories sitting under each garden,” Lucy smiles. “It’s like a magic carpet ride or a journey through space and time. 

hamiltongardens.co.nz

Eastern eats

Whether you’re planning a holiday in the Eastern Bay or thinking of a day trip, you’ll find a range of eateries for all tastes and some notable spots for a drink or two. 

Cigol.

Whakatāne’s CBD has come of age in recent years. The attractive and bustling town centre makes it easy to roam with a range of boutique shops and tempting eateries. With many outdoor dining options, it’s easy to soak up Whakatāne’s plentiful sunshine and admire the impressive town gardens. Veer off the main drag and you’ll also find a few hidden gems.

Mata Brewery and Tasting Room
An award-winning family-run business, Mata Brewery offers craft beers and good food. It’s also based at new Ōhope hotspot, Wharfside, over the summer. Check their website for regular live music evenings.

Volk & Co
Volk & Co coffee brew bar is the latest coffee locale in Whakatāne. It specialises in espresso, filter and cold brew coffee, with a changing selection of specialty drinks and hard-to-resist cabinet treats.

Cigol
A mouth-watering menu, including slow-cooked pork belly, stone sizzling bibimbap, Korean fried chicken, Japanese yakitori and much more. Wash it down with a good range of Korean beverages and Asahi on tap. 

The Comm
The iconic and historic Commercial Hotel has returned to its former glory, with a modern twist. The Comm brings renowned Good George Co. beverages to Whakatāne, along with awesome food and top-notch service.

The Wagon
These guys know good food. The focus here is on damn good burgers washed down with an equally good brew. Great for takeaways too if you feel like an alfresco dinner overlooking the Whakatāne River as the sun sets.

Café Awa
Seriously good coffee and the best cheese scones in town. Often filled with locals who know a good thing. Sit in the sun on the balcony overlooking boats moored along the riverfront.

Gibbo’s on the Wharf
With fish straight off their boats, Gibbo’s serves the best fish and chips in town. Situated right on the wharf, this is the perfect spot for a casual dinner as the sun sets. 

Café 4U
Great vibe, great service, great people, and of course, great food. The counter display here is something to behold – sweet treats and epic scones are impossible to resist. Check out the outdoor courtyard out back.

Cadera.

Ōhope

Although it can be hard to drag yourself away from the waves of New Zealand’s most-loved beach, it’s worth taking a pit-stop at Ōhope Village to enjoy the laid-back dining and shopping scene, perfectly aligned with
beach life. At Wharfside, Port Ōhope you’ll meet a similarly cruisy vibe with the best sunsets in town.

Fisherman's Wharf
It’s no exaggeration to say this is one of the best spots in the Bay. Situated right on the edge of Ōhiwa Harbour, the evening sunsets are superb. Fresh oysters regularly feature on the menu. Stop for a drink on the deck, or enjoy an entire evening with exceptional food.

Moxi Café
Super funky container fit-out and really good coffee. Always buzzing, Moxi has been loved by locals and visitors since inception. 

Cadera
A social dining experience at Ōhope Beach. Serving up delicious food and seriously unmissable margaritas, it’s great for groups of any size with a super relaxed vibe, aligning seamlessly with the Ōhope way of life.

Tio Ōhiwa Oyster Farm
Enjoy harbour-to-plate oysters with a side of chips overlooking the water. 

Julian’s Berry Farm.

Other notable mentions

The Smokin' Goose
This American Barbecue-style restaurant and beer garden, is just a short drive from Whakatāne CBD. This one is a local favourite!

Drift
Whoever said you can only get a good cheese roll in the South Island? You’ll find them here along with superb coffee and a warm welcome to natter away the morning’s news. Loved by Matatā locals and visitors passing through.

Berry Farms
There’s a reason there are so many berry farms in the Eastern Bay – they grow amazing berries of course!  Take your pick from Julian’s Berry Farm and Café, Blueberry Corner and R n Bees.