CARVE DIEM
A trip is what you make it, and though a Ruapehu ski adventure is guaranteed to be a good time, you can always up the ante. UNO editor Hayley Barnett finds the best spots to play, stay and eat during a family road trip.
A trip is what you make it, and though a Ruapehu ski adventure is guaranteed to be a good time, you can always up the ante. UNO editor Hayley Barnett finds the best spots to play, stay and eat during a family road trip.
PLAY WHAKAPAPA SKI FIELD
There’s something about a trip to the mountain in winter that you just can’t beat. Yes, in New Zealand the weather is always a bit of a gamble, but even on the worst days you come away exhilarated, having made the most of a full day on the slopes. On this particular morning, as we headed up the mountain giddy with excitement and anticipation, the snow gods had delivered. We’d been granted a bluebird day, a park near the top and surprisingly short queues. On the advice of friends travelling with us, we left Turangi around 7.45am, making it an easy half-hour drive with barely any traffic.
We’d opted to hire our skis up the mountain, because there’s nothing worse than clomping up the road in giant plastic boots while accidentally taking people out with your skis and poles every time you turn around.
After collecting our passes, we took the lift down to Happy Valley to be fitted for our gear. The fuss-free service was much quicker than expected and we hurried out onto the learner field to get Oscar, our eight-year-old, to his ski lesson.
Of course, a small glitch in the system (also known as me forgetting to confirm the booking) meant Oscar’s name didn’t appear on the list. So I spent the next two hours impressing my husband by skiing down the valley in a backwards wedge as Oscar screamed. While I’d highly recommend confirming your child’s ski lesson before you arrive, it was actually pretty satisfying watching him finally fly down the slope with a huge grin on his face, just as I was about to throw in the towel.
Before lunchtime, my daughter Poppy and I parted with the boys, who were off on their own adventure to discover the sledding zone in Happy Valley, where you can hire toboggans and carve up the dug out tracks for up to an hour. Instead we rode the famous Sky Waka Gondola up the mountain to muck around in the Rock Garden. It wasn’t long before we ran into more friends and ended up on the deck of the Knoll Ridge Chalet, which overlooks most of the ski field and the stunning three peaks of Tongariro.
As we sat there, slightly in awe of the scenery, a skier suddenly appeared over one of the peaks, impressing everyone as he carved down the face of the mountain before stopping right on the edge of a cliff. A collective gasp rippled through the lunchtime crowd as he jumped, then tumbled like a ragdoll down the slope, finally landing motionless in the snow.
Watching the dramatic rescue quickly became one of the highlights of the kids’ day, as they retold the story to friends for weeks afterwards. Thankfully, he was okay in the end, even popping up weeks later on a skiing Facebook page to share the update.
OHAKUNE
The next day, the weather gods weren’t so kind. We’d planned to head to Turoa Ski Field, just under an hour’s drive from Whakapapa, but the wind had picked up considerably, forcing the mountain to close. Though the kids were disappointed they couldn’t ski, we’d heard that Ohakune, the small ski town at the base of Turoa, was the perfect place to spend a day with kids.
Oscar was also strangely fixated on Ohakune’s giant carrot after a recent school project on the town, so we ventured forth. The Ohakune Carrotland Adventure Park is a wonder, and not just because of its 7.5-metre-tall frontman, voted Landmark of the Year in a nationwide poll in 2023. The carrot has a full cast of veggie companions, including a swede, Brussels sprout, potato and parsnip, which only add to the park’s surreal charm. The kids clambered through playgrounds, raced along the flying fox, and tested their stamina on the endurance course.
Photo ops are everywhere, and it’s impossible not to lean into the silliness. The town’s carrot obsession actually stretches back a century, when Chinese settlers first cleared the land and began growing the crop that would make Ohakune famous.
Today, the region still produces around two-thirds of the North Island’s carrots, making the giant vegetable feel surprisingly well deserved.
Since the carrot park hadn’t quite exhausted the kids’ energy, we headed to another quirky stop just 10 minutes away in Raetihi. Dinosaur House is a chaotic prehistoric wonderland, packed with life-sized dinosaur models, fossils and animatronic creatures that roar into life when you least expect it. There are even movie props, including memorabilia from Jurassic Park, much to Oscar’s delight.
STAY
THE QUARTERS
Tucked away in Tūrangi, The Quarters felt like the perfect hideaway. Just a scenic half-hour drive from Whakapapa, it made getting on the slopes early a breeze without having to stay on the mountain itself. Our two-bedroom family apartment had plenty of space for everyone to unwind after a full day carving up the snow, while the kids claimed their corners and quickly made themselves at home. For couples or solo travellers chasing fresh powder, the studios offered a cosy, pared-back alternative that still felt inviting. Friends opted for one of the studios and simply pumped up an airbed for their 10-year-old. Being fully self-contained meant slow, lazy breakfasts before hitting the road, but we also loved that a short stroll brought us straight to Tūrangi’s dining options, making it easy to hang up ski jackets and enjoy a fuss-free dinner after a big day outdoors.
LAKE TAUPŌ HOLIDAY RESORT
The challenge in travelling with kids is finding somewhere to stay that will keep them off the iPads. Lake Taupō Holiday Resort ticks all the boxes, being less a holiday park and more a family playground. The thermally heated lagoon pool was the obvious star, with its diving grotto, swim-up bar, giant poolside movie screen, and a pair of twisting hydroslides that had the kids racing each other for hours. The water was warm enough to keep them splashing well after we’d unpacked the car, and the heated villas with electric blankets kept us warm after hopping out. Being just over an hour from Whakapapa made it the perfect base for a mountain adventure, while Taupō’s restaurants, shops, and indoor activities meant we were never short of options on slower days.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN CHALETS
These chalets in Ohakune felt like a true home away from home. With the mountain closed, we were perfectly content tucked up inside our cosy retreat. After a full day of adventure, we sank into one of the three on‐site spa pools, letting tired legs soak while the kids laughed and played nearby. Just a five-minute stroll took us to Ohakune’s famous playground, making it effortless to keep the little ones entertained. With Tūroa Ski Field just around the corner and plenty of cafés, bars, and eateries on the doorstep, it proved to be a fantastic base for both exploring the slopes and soaking up the charm of Ohakune.
EAT
JOHNNY NATION’S CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR SHOP
After an afternoon at the park, we treated the kids to something sweet at Johnny Nation’s Chocolate Éclair Shop in Ohakune, and, as expected, it was a hit. Famous for its world-renowned Ohakune chocolate eclairs, the little shop feels like a treasure trove of treats, offering up decadent cakes and pies sandwiches, and even fresh vegetables for the grown-ups. The eclairs, filled with fresh cream, are a daily ritual for locals and visitors, and it’s easy to see why. The kids were also kept entertained by the myriad of post-it notes left by diners and pressed all over the walls. By the time we’d finished, the sugar rush had everyone smiling, and it was clear that Ohakune’s sweet reputation is very well deserved.
FB: JOHNNYNATIONSCHOCOLATEECLAIRSHOP
DIXIE BROWNS
On more helpful advice from friends, we pulled up to Dixie Browns in the heart of Taupō and instantly understood its reputation as a lakefront favourite for families. The place buzzes with energy and the food options are endless, from juicy, flame-grilled burgers and golden fish and chips to melt-in-your-mouth slow-cooked ribs and indulgent milkshakes. The portions are generous and the kids happily dived in while we lingered over our drinks, watching the sun go down behind the lake.
MATTERHORN
When in Ohakune, we made sure to stop for a meal at Matterhorn, and it didn’t disappoint. This cosy alpine-style restaurant, tucked inside the Powderhorn Chalet just above the lively Powderkeg Bar, has a menu to suit everyone, from hearty classics to more elevated dishes. The highlight was watching the mulled wine being gently warmed over the open fire right in front of us. It would be a great way to unwind after a day on (or off) the mountain. It’s wonderfully family‐friendly, with space for the kids to wander, and has plenty of options to keep little diners happy.
GOLDEN CRUST PIZZA
After a day on the slopes, we found ourselves pulling up to Golden Crust Pizza in Tūrangi for dinner. Tucked just off the main road, this family‐friendly pizzeria has earned a reputation locally for its generous, flavour‐packed pizzas and welcoming vibe. The menu is bigger than you might expect. There’s BBQ chicken, peri‐peri and meat‐lover’s pies loaded with toppings, plus burgers, thick shakes and sides for anyone who’s still peckish after a day outdoors. We ordered a few different pizzas and the kids loved picking slices straight off the board. Plenty of locals and visitors were stopping by while we were there, which felt like a good sign, and between rounds of pizza and thick shakes, everyone agreed it was a pit stop worth making before heading back to base.
WHAKATĀNE’S LAST TASTE OF SUMMER
Take your pick of these tantalising ways to savour the best food in the Eastern Bay.
Take your pick of these tantalising ways to savour the best food in the Eastern Bay.
Long Lunch Italian Style
Autumn in the Eastern Bay of Plenty seems to hold onto summer that much longer. The days are warm and calm, the ocean still inviting, and the coastline feels wide open once the holiday crowds have gone. It’s a great time to plan a trip to Whakatāne and the surrounding coast, especially with plenty happening across the region.
This season, the Eastern Bay is hosting a mix of foodie events, some part of the Bay’s popular Flavours of Plenty festival, that all highlight the region’s produce, fresh seafood and generous hospitality.
FARMING LIKE GRANDAD
April 18 — Te Teko Racecourse
While not all about food, this is one of the most-loved events on the autumn calendar. See the Clydesdale horses, sheep shearing, tractors, and farm machinery (old and new). There are wagon rides, vintage cars, exhibitions by the Axe Men, chainsaw races, farm animals, craft stalls, old-style kids’ games, food and live music - a classic country day out. Please note: due to farm animals, kindly leave dogs at home.
ŌHIWA OYSTER FESTIVAL
May 16 - Port Ōhope Wharf
Now in its third year, the Ōhiwa Oyster Festival returns with a day celebrating the start of the oyster season. Hosted by Tio Ōhiwa, the festival features freshly shucked oysters, seafood vendors from around Aotearoa, chef demonstrations, live music, markets and competitions, all set against the harbour backdrop at Port Ōhope Wharf. Tickets include entry and access to entertainment, activities and oyster stations throughout the day.
SHUCKED & POURED: ŌHIWA OYSTERS X MATA BEER
April 17 — Mata Brewery
A guided tasting that pairs freshly shucked Tio Ōhiwa oysters with a curated selection of Mata beers. Explore how different beer styles complement the briny character of the oysters, including a signature “oyster shooter”.
THE BIG FAT GREEK CYPRIOT LUNCH
April 18 - Awakaponga Community Hall
An instant sell-out in 2025, this lively event returns with a generous Greek Cypriot feast served meze-style, alongside music and plenty of convivial atmosphere.
SMOKE ON THE WATER
April 19 - Fisherman’s Wharf
Join Fisherman’s Wharf for a spectacular evening celebrating the craft of open-fire cooking. Enjoy a smoky four-course dinner, paired with drinks, and cooked entirely over live flames by renowned chef Paul Patterson.
SMOKE, FIRE & BBQ
April 25 - The Run 15
Celebrate the fundamentals of flavour with a campfire feast under the stars. Go off-grid for a one-night-only farm dining experience featuring generous barbecue, tips and tricks from the pit, and optional hands-on moments - all enjoyed fireside beneath clear country skies.
LE REPAS VAGABOND
April 25 — Waingarara Valley
A 12-course wandering meal of chef-led surprises inspired by Spanish, French, and Mediterranean flavours. This roaming feast promises creativity, generous flavour and plenty of surprises along the way. Bon Appétit. Sahten. Buen provecho.
MORE TO TICKLE THE TASTEBUDS MYSTERY FOOD TOUR
April 18 — Whakatāne
ALL YOU CAN EAT TACO NIGHT
April 22 & 29 - Cadera
NOSE TO TAIL BBQ FEAST
May 1 - The Smokin’ Goose
APPRENDRE PIZZA + CROISSANT
May 2 - L’Atelier
LONG LUNCH ITALIAN STYLE
May 2 - Top Shelf
NAPIER UNCOVERED
Beachside strolls, great eats, creative corners and cool local finds. Napier’s got character in spades and plenty to explore. Here’s where to shop, eat, drink and wander while you’re in town.
Beachside strolls, great eats, creative corners and cool local finds. Napier’s got character in spades and plenty to explore. Here’s where to shop, eat, drink and wander while you’re in town.
SHOP
TENNYSON GALLERY
Tennyson Gallery is owner Lizzie’s celebration of New Zealand creativity. This bright, welcoming space is filled with art that’s as diverse as it is beautiful. Expect everything from bold paintings and fine-art prints to glasswork, sculpture and contemporary jewellery. It’s the perfect spot for anyone who loves original, homegrown talent.
Cnr Tennyson & Hastings Streets
BROCANTE
Andrea’s gorgeous store is filled with unexpected and utterly seductive treasures. It’s an eclectic blend of exclusive homewares, vintage design, jewellery, scarves, clothing and body products. If you love a little French flair, then Brocante is the place for you. And don’t miss the impressive 1930s stained-glass ceiling dome.
31 Tennyson Street
BOYD-DUNLOP GALLERY
Richard and Elise’s gallery is a cornerstone of the city’s art scene, showcasing a wide selection of contemporary and fine art prints across two stunning levels. Open daily and featuring regular exhibitions from leading New Zealand artists, it’s always worth the visit.
4 Hastings Street
VINCI'S PIZZA
Vincent has brought a vibrant street side vibe to life while renovating indoors. Enjoy hand-stretched sourdough pizza by the slice or as an 18-inch whole pie. Grab a quick bite or settle in with friends and family. With a great range of independent craft beers, wine on tap and house-batch cocktails, every day is a pizza day. Open seven days from 11 am. Dine in or take out.
29A Hastings Street
HUNGER MONGER
Fraser and Agnieszka’s menu is a true celebration of the sea. Packed with as much variety as they can find, a few favourites remain, while most dishes ebb and flow with the seasons. Sample a range of Snacks and Smalls, or choose from a select few mains. It’s a strictly seafood affair in a modern, retro restaurant by the sea, with no meat in sight.
29 Marine Parade
DAJKO’S KILIM CAFÉ
Once known as Kilim Café, this long-time favourite has grown into something new. The Balkan-style grill celebrates the flavours of Eastern Europe while holding onto its Turkish roots. Chef-owner Yusuf Dogru, who grew up in Istanbul and has called Hawke’s Bay home for years, brings his culture to life through dishes like smoky cevapi, juicy kebabs and richly layered iskenders. As one of the few BYO spots in town, it’s a great place to catch up with friends over a relaxed meal in the sunny courtyard.
193 Hastings Street
DRINK
ROGUE HOP SPEAKEASY
This is hospo legend Jeremy Bayliss’s latest addition, and it’s become an institution for locals and visitors alike. A stylish neighbourhood hangout with an upstairs lounge, this is the perfect spot for a laugh over a tipple. Exclusive New Zealand craft beer, wine and spirits, plus handmade dumplings and burgers. Available for private functions and events.
113 Hastings Street
MARKET ST
In the heart of the CBD, Market St is a modern city bar with a fun, local vibe. Owners Steve and Sarah have turned the old Cri into a buzzing little hangout where the food’s fresh, the drinks flow and nothing feels fussy. The menu changes with the seasons, and weekly specials like Burger & Brew Tuesdays and Dollar Dumpling Thursdays keep things playful. With daily Happy Hour and $12 cocktails on Saturdays, it’s the kind of place that makes any excuse a good one to drop in.
8 Market Street
GOLDIE’S
Goldie’s is the city’s newest go-to for easy, honest, seriously delicious food in a casual but vibrant setting. Owners Grant and Alice have created a little gem where you can bring the kids, meet friends or just drop in for something good to eat. The menu leans toward classic favourites infused with fresh f lavours. Add in craft beers, great coffee and plenty of buzz, and it’s easy to see why Goldie’s is quickly finding its crowd.
82 Dalton Street
PLAY/DO
BLUFF HILL WALKS
Get your step count up with the city’s scenic hill walks right from the CBD. Climb Bluff Hill Lookout for sweeping harbour views, wander the historic streets of Napier Hill past Art Deco homes or tackle the zigzag tracks linking the city to leafy reserves. Every route rewards you with breathtaking views across the coast and city.
MTG HAWKE’S BAY
In the centre of the city, MTG Hawke’s Bay combines museum, theatre and gallery spaces in a beautifully restored heritage building. Exhibitions change often, blending art, history and local stories — from the 1931 earthquake to contemporary culture. With kids’ activities, theatre events and a museum shop, there’s something here for everyone. Open daily 9.30 am–5 pm. Free entry.
1 Tennyson Street
MARINE PARADE ACTIVITIES
Along the coast, Marine Parade offers one of the loveliest ways to feel the sea breeze — wide paths for walking, gardens to pause in and palm trees that line the Parade. Home to the Pania of the Reef statue, the Sunken Gardens and Ocean Spa, it’s popular with families, cyclists and anyone keen to sit and take in the view.
As nature intended
Escape the city buzz and immerse yourself in wild beauty at Wellington’s lush, predator-free haven.
Escape the city buzz and immerse yourself in wild beauty at Wellington’s lush, predator-free haven.
WORDS LIZ FRENCH | PHOTOS LUCY BROAD, SCOTT LANGDALE + SUPPLIED
Wellington is a thriving metropolis, seat of government and a vibrant capital of corporations, culture and coffee. In complete contrast it also boasts the world’s first fully fenced urban ecosanctuary.
You would not expect to find 225 hectares (more than 500 acres) of regenerating forest and rare birdlife within a few minutes’ drive of Wellington’s CBD. This is Zealandia Te Māra a Tāne (The Garden of Tāne Māhuta, the Māori god of the forest).
The idea of protecting Wellington’s biodiversity began in the 1990s with a plan to manage the preservation of the national assets of the city. Its theme, “Bring the Birds Back to Wellington”, was the inspiration for Zealandia, a sanctuary that is doing exactly that.
The decommissioning of the Karori reservoir allowed this ambitious project to begin in the valley it occupied. The reservoir, with its historic dam crossing, is now an attractive feature of Zealandia. Bringing back the birds and other New Zealand native and endemic species required eradicating and preventing entry by the human introduced mammalian predators that have decimated our native flora and fauna over hundreds of years. To restore a valley to its pre-human state does not happen overnight, hence Zealandia’s far sighted vision. The defining feature was the construction, in 1999, of an 8.6 kilometre-long predator exclusion fence completely surrounding the sanctuary.
Thanks to the fence, and to community conservation efforts like Predator Free Wellington, the 500-year project has progressed dramatically in just 25 years.
Wellington is one of the only cities in the world where bird biodiversity is increasing. Tūī and kererū, once rare, are now an everyday sight around the region. Kākā and kārearea (NZ falcon) are now commonly seen in the city and nearby suburbs.
Zealandia’s vision would not be possible without support, funding and sponsorship. Visiting also contributes to the ongoing conservation work.
So, if you are in Wellington, take a break for a walk in the bush where you will hear only birdsong and where you can witness rare native birds like the hihi (stitchbird), tīeke (saddleback), kākāriki (NZ parakeet) and takahē and see prehistoric tuatara sunbathing. If you take a guided night tour, you may spot the kiwi pukupuku (little spotted kiwi), some 200 of which now call Zealandia home.
Free shuttles to Zealandia leave from Wellington’s isite and the top of the cable car.
Clubbing with the girls
A girls’ golf getaway to Ōhope and Whakatāne serves up the ultimate weekend escape.
A girls’ golf getaway to Ōhope and Whakatāne serves up the ultimate weekend escape.
Planning a girls' weekend that mixes great golf with good food and a bit of beachside downtime?
Ōhope and Whakatāne deliver the goods, whether you're a near-pro or just tagging along for the eats and views.
Tee off and chill out
This trip starts on the green. You’ve got two standout courses close together, each with its own vibe.
Ōhope Beach Golf Links is the kind of course where your phone camera might get more action than your driver. With views of the Pacific Ocean on one side and Ōhiwa Harbour on the other, it’s a classic links course with a relaxed pace, plenty of fresh air and a few playful challenges to keep things lively.
Over and around the hill, Whakatāne Golf Club offers something different. It’s lush, tree-lined and loved for its pristine greens. Ideal if you want a slightly more structured round, or to show off your short game.
Where to stay and slay
Ōhope offers beachside motels, modern apartments and the well-loved Ōhope Beach Top 10 Holiday Park, complete with spas and saunas that are perfect after a day of golf or shopping.
In Whakatāne, stay central with chic motels and easy-access apartments, or find a tucked-away spot if you're craving a quiet wine-and-face-mask night.
A little shopping, a little adventure
Got some downtime between tee times? You’ll find it easy to fill. Boutique stores in Ōhope Village and along The Strand in Whakatāne are great for a slow wander, especially if your crew loves homewares, beachwear and little local gems.
For something more active, explore the trails around Ōhiwa Harbour by bike, take a scenic bush walk on the Nga Tapuwae o Toi trail, or soak up some sun along Ōhope Beach. Feeling adventurous? Book a fishing charter or a kayak trip and make some salty memories together.
Bites and bonding
After your round, the real fun begins. Start at Fisherman’s Wharf in Ōhope for cocktails and seafood with a view, or head to Moxi for great coffee and brunch bites. The Ōhope Beach Tavern brings the post-golf pub vibes, with a side of ocean breeze. Whakatāne steps it up after dark. Grab fusion dishes and fizz at Cigol, hearty burgers and beers at The Comm, or something more refined (and wine list–friendly) at Roquette. Craft lovers, don’t miss Mata Brewery for a tasting flight and Smokin’ Goose for next-level BBQ.
The best kind of girls’ trip
A golf getaway with the girls doesn’t have to be all about the game. Whakatāne and Ōhope serve up the perfect blend of swing, sip, shop and soak, all in one sunny, easy-to-reach package. Whether you're lining up birdies or just enjoying the weekend vibes, it’s a trip worth planning.
Valley of light
UNO editor Hayley Barnett sees Rotorua in a beautiful new light at Mārama, Te Puia’s unforgettable geothermal nighttime experience.
UNO editor Hayley Barnett sees Rotorua in a beautiful new light at Mārama, Te Puia’s unforgettable geothermal nighttime experience.
PHOTOS Graeme Murray + Supplied
As dusk slowly settles over the geothermal valley at Te Puia in Rotorua, the day’s steam softening in the low bask of the sun, the magic of this place becomes more and more apparent. Beams of light begin to burst through the haze while we sit in Pātaka Kai, Te Puia’s renowned restaurant, enjoying our dinner on the heated deck.
Laser lighting has been meticulously set up across the 70-hectare site, to showcase more than 500 geothermal features, many of which are usually only accessible during the day.
On the launch night of the Mārama Geyser Light Trail, the hush across the valley is about to blossom into an immersive interplay of light and music that will transform Te Puia from darkness into a world of light. But, I soon discover, this is more than a light show; it’s an experience which showcases whakapapa and years of culture.
“Everything we do here is to uplift te ahurea Māori,” says special events manager Reanne Poutama. “With Mārama, Te Puia wanted to create something magical that would reflect our whenua and our stories in a way we’ve never done before.”
It’s clear from the outset that Te Puia has achieved this lofty goal. From the moment you step through the entrance to the 1.5km trail, you’re guided by sound and story. Setting the tone is musician Maisey Rika’s ambient waiata. Her otherworldly voice follows us as we head down the path.
On this night, we’re lucky enough to witness Maisey herself singing atop a point that stands high above the valley, overlooking the geysers and geothermal activity, the lights flickering through the steam behind her. The effect is ethereal and spine tingling.
“Maisey’s songs are the soundscape for the whole experience,” explains Reanne. “We’ve tried to partner our lighting in a way that amplifies each waiata.”
The 10 scenes have been designed to reflect the natural environment, which is infused with Māori storytelling. The trail winds through glowing Māori artworks, bubbling mud and towering trees. At every bend, the valley becomes a theatre. Laser lights ripple like currents above Puarenga Stream, while geothermal steam is lit from within, mimicking ancestral breath. One of the most memorable scenes evokes Tangaroa, atua of the sea, his story told through undulating blue lasers and swelling sound. Standing there, it almost seems as if the sea has risen into the valley.
Midway, the geothermal terrace offers a natural pause. Beneath the steam, natural hot rock seats offer warmth and a moment to breathe, with Pōhutu Geyser in the distance.
Self-paced and child friendly, the walk is around 60 minutes, taking into account all the stops and meanderings. The trail features hosts at certain points along the way, which allows visitors to move at their own pace.
Family accessibility was always part of the vision.
“The inspiration first was to provide something for Rotorua at nighttime for families,” she explains. “But we also hope that it’s accessible to everyone, including locals, internationals and families. It’s priced differently to our usual offerings because we really wanted whānau to be able to come and enjoy it.”
Along the trail are a number of artworks created by Māori artists, including glowing light boxes designed by students from Te Takapū o Rotowhio (the National Stone and Bone Carving School) at the on-site New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute.
“They’ve designed light boxes that tell our traditional stories,” says Reanne. “We’re weaving in our people’s talents and creative flair.”
That includes Mikaere, a Te Puia guide who created a mural of the story of Mārama using glow-in-the-dark and metallic paints that come alive under UV light.
“He’s amazing,” Reanne says proudly. “He would never usually get to showcase this kind of work, and now it’s part of the trail.”
Another highlight comes near the end of the walk, towards Pikirangi Village, where a forest tunnel glimmers and soft lasers rain down like an aurora, creating a canopy of light. As we gaze upward, everyone around us slows their steps. This is the magic of Mārama. Resting in the final notes of Maisey Rika’s voice, we look out over the valley under real stars. In this moment, it’s hard not to feel connected to te ao Māori. It’s a reminder of how deeply this experience is rooted in wairua.
While Te Puia’s daytime experiences have long celebrated Māori culture through kapa haka and guided storytelling, Mārama is something altogether different.
“This is something very new here,” Reanne says. “We’re usually quite traditional... This is us mixing those traditional elements with modernity. And even if you come during the day, you won’t see any of this. It’s exclusive to Mārama.”
Having grown up in Rotorua, I know this area well, but the whole nighttime experience felt like seeing the valley for the first time. Mārama feels meaningful. It’s a walk through the unseen stories of the land, guided by light and music.
Reanne reflects: “It’s a way to feel connected to our place, to our people and our stories.”
Mārama runs until April 2026, with entry from 7:30pm (Sept–Nov) and 8:30pm (Dec–April). See the website for the Matariki 2026 relaunch. Tickets are $49 for adults and $25 for children.
A region for the ages
A family getaway to the Waikato uncovered a treasure trove of activities for all three generations.
A family getaway to the Waikato uncovered a treasure trove of activities for all three generations.
words HAYLEY BARNETT
The Waikato seems to be undergoing something of a travel renaissance. With a growing number of new experiences and attractions popping up in and around Hamilton and Cambridge, it's quickly becoming one of the North Island’s must-visit regions. From the world’s largest organic tea plantation to New Zealand’s most visited attraction, Hobbiton™, and the foodie hub that is MADE, there’s now so much to see and do that fitting it all into a single weekend feels like a challenge.
Fortunately, Hamilton is just a two-hour drive from Tauranga, making it perfect for a quick getaway. Our family managed to pack in a wide range of family-friendly activities, and I even snuck away with Mum for a day of more grown-up indulgence. As it turns out, the Waikato is also an ideal destination for the over 50s, with highlights like the spellbinding Hamilton Gardens, scenic riverside walks, bustling weekend markets, and charming countryside homesteads offering something for every kind of traveller.
Zealong Tea Estate
I wouldn’t call Mum obsessive, but if there’s one thing she’s truly passionate about, it’s tea. So it was only f itting that we made a stop at Zealong, just outside of Hamilton, home to the world’s largest internationally certified organic tea plantation. At Zealong, tea isn’t just a beverage, it’s a way of life. The passion among the staff is palpable, and from the moment we arrived, the experience felt more like a refined wine tasting than a simple visit to a tea farm.
We were lucky to run into Zealong’s CEO, Gigi Crawford, who welcomed us and shared her extensive knowledge of tea. She walked us through the company’s inspiring journey, from a modest patch of tea plants nearly 30 years ago to an award winning, globally respected organic tea label. Among its many accolades, Zealong recently received the UK Tea Academy’s prestigious ‘Lifetime Achievement Leafie’, a testament to the team’s dedication.
Mum, naturally in her element, impressed everyone by correctly identifying different teas and blends, while I fumbled through with minimal knowledge. We were then taken on a tour of the building and the plantation, learning about the Chinese history of tea. Sculptures of important historical figures dotted along the path leading up to the Tea Room showcased a lengthy history dating back almost 5000 years.
At the Tea Room, we participated in a traditional tea ceremony, then were served what can only be described as the best high tea of my life. Zealong’s French pastry chef treated us to an incredible array of delicious pastries, sandwiches and sweets, all designed to accompany various types of tea blends. It was fair to say this was one of Mum’s top holiday highlights.
Woodlands Estate
Just four minutes down the road from Zealong lies Woodlands Estate, a sprawling 98,000-acre property established in 1872. At its heart stands the beautifully restored Homestead, originally built around 1875 as a manager’s residence and crafted largely from native Kauri timber. The surrounding gardens are home to some huge botanical treasures, including New Zealand’s largest Eucalyptus tree. We wandered along peaceful tracks that weave through the estate’s lush gardens and trees, then stepped inside the Homestead, where rooms remain just as they were when the last family moved out in the early 1900s. Next door, a charming café offered the perfect spot to recharge after our meanderings.
Hamilton Gardens
Another epic outing can be found at the Hamilton Gardens. If you haven’t been yet, you’re definitely missing out. Recently upgraded, the Gardens are now even more welcoming. One of the biggest changes is the addition of the Gallagher Visitor Centre, which opened last year. It now serves as the main entrance to the Enclosed Gardens and includes a café, extra seating, and event spaces.
Whether you're young or just young at heart, it’s easy to spend an entire day exploring. Each garden offers a memorable, educational experience. I knew the kids would love the gardens, so we picked them up on our way there from Woodlands Estate. As predicted, they were especially enchanted by the Surrealist Garden, a whimsical dreamscape where everything is larger-than-life, making you feel like you've stepped into a storybook.
They also loved the Ancient Egyptian Garden, which transports you 4,000 years back in time to a sacred temple garden. And no visit would be complete without a stop at the Destination Playground, packed with a treehouse, slides, and a stage perfect for imaginative play.
I would highly recommend taking a tour with a guide who explains everything you need to know about each garden. It beats fumbling through the brochure and displaying your lack of historical knowledge in front of the kids.
MADE
Discovering one of the country’s best culinary hubs is nestled inside a block of shops in Hamilton East was not on my bingo card this year. But lo and behold there we were sampling some amazing food from some amazing artisans and shopping up a storm. The vibrant atmosphere proves the Waikato’s creative food scene has well and truly taken its place as a top destination for foodies. We dined at Reggie’s, a cute Italian restaurant serving up authentic dishes in a cool diner with views of the city. Then stopped in for gelato downstairs at Little ‘Lato. We were back the next day to do our grocery shop at the stalls – a great old-timey market experience in itself.
Te Whare Taonga o Waikato Museum & Gallery
It was recommended the kids visit Waikato Museum’s interactive science centre, Exscite, which has recently been revitalised into two zones: Exscite: Home, exploring everyday science in a fun, hands-on way, and Exscite: Taiao, focused on Aotearoa’s natural environment. Among the standout features is a 30-million-year-old giant penguin fossil discovered locally, as well as digital activities like a touch-screen forest where kids can animate their own bird designs. All made for a great rainy day adventure.
Cambridge’s new boutique gem
Set to open later this year, The Clements Hotel brings new life to one of Cambridge’s grand old buildings. Carefully restored with a nod to its 19th-century roots, the 29-room boutique hotel mixes old-world charm with modern luxury. Think plush rooms, a speakeasy-style bar, garden suites, and standout dining at the Gallery Restaurant. With five-star service, locally crafted gin, and stylish spaces to relax or celebrate, The Clements is set to become the go-to place for discerning travellers. The Clements is offering a grand opening special with 15 percent off room only rates for stays until September 30, 2025, subject to availability.
Lake Te Koo Utu Walk
A day trip to Cambridge was clearly on everyone’s holiday agenda during a stunning autumn weekend. We joined the crowds, ducking in and out of charming boutiques before grabbing some sushi for lunch. Craving a bit of peace and nature, we decided to explore beyond the town centre. Leaving the car parked, we strolled down to Lake Te Koo Utu, tucked right in the heart of Cambridge. I’m a little embarrassed to admit I hadn’t known it was there until a lovely woman at the isite Information Centre pointed us in the right direction. The loop around the lake is a beautiful, mostly shaded walk that takes about half an hour. Halfway around (if you're entering from the town side), there’s a playground and a garden perched on the hill. The kids had a blast weaving through the rose bushes and swinging their way through the park.
Camjet Extreme Tour
Just beneath Victoria Bridge, tucked along the banks of the Waikato River, you'll find Camjet – an adrenaline-packed adventure perfect for thrill-seekers and laid-back explorers alike. This high-speed jet boat ride pushes you out of your comfort zone while offering fascinating insights into the river’s history and ecosystem. Our driver, Aaron, kept us guessing with sharp twists, sudden spins, and unexpected stops to share curious facts, some of which may or may not have been entirely true. Along the way, we spotted a hawk snatch an eel mid-flight, only to lose it as it soared over the dense bush, and even caught glimpses of giant goldfish gliding near the shore. The entire ride lasted about 45 minutes, and by the end, we were soaked, and grinning from ear to ear.
Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari
On our last day, we took a bit of a detour before heading home. Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari is a must-visit eco-sanctuary just outside of Te Awamutu. Enclosed by one of the world's longest pest-proof fences, this ancient forest is a haven for native wildlife, including kiwi, takahē, and tuatara. You can book a guided walk, but we decided to head in on our own. We climbed treetop viewing platforms and walked the serene forest trails while learning about conservation efforts to restore the natural ecosystem on signs along the path. Without predators, the wildlife are surprisingly friendly. A North Island robin followed us for part of the walk and happily posed for photos just an arms-length away. The whole experience was a great chance to experience New Zealand’s biodiversity as it once was.
Growing places
Four years of work is beginning to bloom at Hamilton Gardens. We find out about what’s sprouted up and the seeds already planted for the future.
Four years of work is beginning to bloom at Hamilton Gardens. We find out about what’s sprouted up and the seeds already planted for the future.
words KARL PUSCHMANN
Italian Renaissance Garden.
If you’ve never visited the Hamilton Gardens before, you’re probably wondering what all the fuss is about.
That was certainly true for me when last summer my wife suggested we spend a family afternoon there. An afternoon! It seemed a dubious suggestion. How could a garden possibly hope to hold our children’s interest – and if I’m being completely honest, mine as well – for longer than 10 minutes? I voiced my concerns and she just smiled and said, “they’re really good,” and that was that. After lunch we packed the kids in the car and went.
It turns out she had dramatically undersold the place. Walking through the enclosed gardens was a complete delight that enchanted even this naysayer. It felt like walking into a fantastical picture book, where wonder and surprise was planted around every corner and charming detail bloomed all around.
Each of the 18 different themed gardens is thoroughly unique, and represent key moments in world history when there was a shift in civilisation. Some take cues from history, like the Italian Renaissance Garden which shows how man had learnt to tame nature through intricate trellis, grand courtyards and careful manicuring, others highlight different cultures approach to gardens, such as the The Japanese Garden of Contemplation, which offers peace and tranquility amongst its carefully placed stones, while others are full of whimsy and imagination like the Surrealist Garden, where reality twists in oversized and unexpected ways. Weaving throughout, an unmistakable Aotearoa flavour.
Japanese Garden of Contemplation.
It was a fantastic and fantastical afternoon. One that I thought could not be improved upon. But, again, the Hamilton Gardens has proven me wrong.
Just a couple of months ago Hamilton Gardens unveiled the brand new Entry Precinct to the exquisite Enclosed Gardens. This modernisation of the entrance area can be considered the fertile soil for the future growth of the gardens, the plans of which are already mapped out and designed through to 2050.
“This is the realisation of four years of work and gives us the foundation for moving forward,” Lucy Ryan, the Hamilton Garden’s director says. “We have the new visitor centre, we’ve refreshed the whole pavilion and improved visitor wayfinding. We took the opportunity to better embed the Mana Whenua narrative as well. It was an amazing project to be involved in.”
Lucy explains that the Garden’s popularity was the impetus for the project. As Hamilton’s most popular attraction up to 5000 visitors per day were coming through the doors in peak season. The old facility simply couldn’t cope with the numbers.
The new centre also allowed the Gardens to implement their long-signposted change to instigate an entry fee for those over 16. Hamilton residents can still visit for free after registering for a MyGardens Pass. Lucy says 40,000 Hamiltonians have already signed up for the pass.
Introducing this system may have been the pragmatic reason for the upgrade, but it wasn’t the only one. “We wanted to ensure the Mana Whenua story and perspective was woven throughout the entry precinct area design,” Lucy explains, saying that was something that was incredibly important to the team and the Gardens itself. “And the other big overarching one, as corny as it sounds, was that we needed a world-class entry to match our world-class gardens. It was all about the visitor experience.”
Now that the Entry Precinct has blossomed, Lucy and her team are now cultivating the seeds that have already been planted for the Garden's next three big expansions. Fortunately, there won’t be another four-year wait for the first of these to bloom.
Hamilton Gardens Visitor Centre.
“The designs and the civil infrastructure have been done. The groundwork and concrete work, all that sort of stuff for all three gardens is in place already,” she says. “Our big focus now is the Medieval Garden. That should be open by this time next year.
“And then it’s right onto the Pasifika and Baroque Gardens. The designs are completed, so it's just the build factor.”
Each of these will bring a new chapter to the gardens. The Medieval Garden explores the spread of Christianity and charity, the Pasifika Garden focuses on the navigators who explored the seas and the age of navigation, while the Baroque Garden will be a showy affair that highlights how technological advances led to the spectacle of wealth during that period.
Medieval Garden.
This leads nicely into the wealth of events and activities happening at the Gardens over the summer. Every Sunday from 4pm to 8pm Gourmet in the Gardens on the Rhododendron Lawn sees the Garden’s floral scents complemented with the sizzling aroma of food trucks and the rich bird song is accompanied by live entertainment. The popular audio guides and Highlights tour add richness to the experience, and the night-time Pekapeka tours – bat-spotting – is held on select Tuesday and Thursday evenings throughout November to March. While the bats can sometimes be shy, Lucy says they’re big chatterboxes that you’ll hear as you walk through the gardens under the stars.
“You have little bat radars to help try and spot them in the zone,” she says, before adding, “And as you walk along the path looking for them, you'll see glow worms all along the river path, which is really cool.”
And, of course, the Hamilton Arts Festival will be running from the end of February through to March, taking over the whole precinct area and putting on shows within the enclosed gardens as well.
It all contributes to making Hamilton Gardens much, much more than you might expect. “It’s beautiful and it’s gorgeous and it’s delightful with a huge amount of narrative and stories sitting under each garden,” Lucy smiles. “It’s like a magic carpet ride or a journey through space and time.
The best things in life are free
No budget? No problem! Here are some fun, free things to do around the Bay this summer.
No budget? No problem! Here are some fun, free things to do around the Bay this summer.
words KARL PUSCHMANN
Pāpāmoa Hills Cultural Heritage Regional Park
Affectionally known as ‘Pāp Hills’, the former Pa site has become a favourite for walkers and runners thanks to the various tracks it offers to the summit. While most people tackle the 45-minute walk to the top to bask in the stunning panoramic views, there are plenty of other tracks to explore in this 182-hectare park. With seven historic Pa sites to discover and a brand new walking track that has just opened, there are plenty of good reasons to head for the hills.
Ōmokoroa Playground
After its recent million-dollar facelift Ōmokoroa Playground has become a true destination. Sitting right on the beachfront its setting is spectacular, allowing you to sit and enjoy tremendous views of the harbour and back towards Tauranga while the kids make the most of its rejuvenated playground that includes things like mega-swings, a human-sized mouse wheel, climbing nets and even musical equipment, amongst many, many others. Like similar parks, there’s a BBQ facility, but if it’s a morning visit there are cafes nearby for those requiring much-needed coffee.
Kulim Park
Last month, Tauranga City Council held a public vote to find the public’s favourite play space. Sliding into victory was Ōtūmoetai’s Kulim Park. It was a well-earned result as it boasts plenty of attractions for the whole family. Kids love its boisterous playground, there’s a basketball court for older kids to shoot hoops and there’s a fantastic BBQ area for cooking up lunch or an early evening dinner. There are also walking and biking tracks to enjoy plenty of free parking. Factor in its pristine harbourside location and stunning views back to the Mount and you can see why it was a winner.
Pilot Bay
If you’re after something a little less hectic, check out Pilot Bay. This has become a family favourite as it’s less populated and the water on this side of the maunga is far calmer than its neighbour’s surf-friendly waves meaning you don’t have to worry about a rogue wave wiping out the kids. Add its picnic and BBQ areas, the same easy access to the two walks up or around the Mount itself, and a sensational view of the harbour, it’s an attractive choice for those with young kids.
Memorial Park
If you want to go big this summer, then you need to go to the Memorial Park playground. With two huge playgrounds for kids to explore they’re not going to get bored any time soon. There’s a rocket ship with not one, not two, but three slides shooting off it, a swing bridge, tunnels, and a climbing course along with the expected swings and roundabouts and a giant fountain they can splash about in if they get too hot. There’s so much to play on that you’ll want to bring your book as the kids will be occupied for hours. Along with a BBQ lunch, you’ll also want to pack the skateboards and scooters in case they want to drop into the skate park. This is one place where bringing a few bucks could be a good idea as there’s also mini golf and a mini train operating in summer.
Kaiate Falls
One of the most enjoyable bush walks in the Bay is the one-hour loop that takes in the two sensational waterfalls at Kaiate Falls, which is also known as Te Rerekawau Falls. The well-maintained track contains plenty of maps, pictures and descriptions that allow for appreciation and understanding of the environment. The first section of the walk takes in a ‘3-step’ waterfall, while the second leads you to a classic horsetail waterfall with a plunging 15m drop. The trail is best taken at a leisurely pace and is suitable for all ages. If you’re feeling peckish after the walk, there’s a picnic area to enjoy lunch surrounded by nature before the 30-minute drive back to the city.
Weekend in the city
A girls’ getaway to the Big Smoke doesn’t disappoint.
A girls’ getaway to the Big Smoke doesn’t disappoint.
Having lived in Aotearoa’s largest city for many years of my adult life, I’m
no stranger to its amazing attractions. But, as a city does, Auckland seems to transform every time I return. New shops, restaurants and hotels pop up faster than an Intercity bus on Hobson Street at rush hour.
So when a friend suggested we leave our families for a weekend in the Big Smoke, I jumped at the chance. Shopping, cocktails, amazing food and great company – what more do you need from a girls’ getaway? Said friend arrived early on Friday to pick me up. In jumped two other tired mums, and we all miraculously mustered up the energy to head straight for the shops.
Sylvia Park
Sylvia Park is perfectly positioned for anyone south of Auckland. We pulled right in off the motorway in time for lunch at one of the many restaurants at the mall’s alluring food alley near the entrance. After some traditional Vietnamese pho – and some not-so-traditional cocktails – at Vietflames, we hit the shops. We only had a couple of hours to spare so prioritised all the major brands like Zara, H&M, Country Road, Decjuba and Gorman, as well as the two big make-up and skincare chains, Sephora and Mecca. Yes, we have a few of these in the Bay, but the bigger offerings provide far more variety and options.
Westfield Mall Newmarket + Nuffield Street
The next mall on the hit list was one I hadn’t visited in years. It may have just opened last time I was here, and boy has it changed. Newmarket’s Westfield Mall offers all your usual middle-of-the-road stores but also has great women’s clothing shops like Assembly Label, Sass and Bide, Seed Heritage and COS, as well as the high-end stores such as Gucci, Alexander McQueen, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton and the luxe department store David Jones, all of which I successfully avoided.
Three hours free parking gave us just enough time to get through the mall. The building is also perfect for kids with a covered playground, Event Cinemas and plenty of food options.
The top floor is dedicated to dine-in eateries, while the food court offers plenty of healthy food options, and your usual takeaway fare.
Of course, we had to get across the road to Nuffield Street too. A jewellery sale at Karen Walker had us standing outside in line for 20 minutes just to get a look at the new collection. Once we entered the store, free coffee and bowls of candy kept our energy and spirits up just enough to meander down the rest of Nuffield Street, to experience all its great offerings.
Ponsonby Road
Ponsonby has always been a boutique haven for shoppers, but since the addition of Ponsonby Central it now has the glue to hold it all together – and a pinpoint for the Uber to stop smack bang in the middle of the energetic suburb.
Still staying in line with the boutique-focused vibe, Ponsonby Central offers pop-up stores and cafés but also a vintage shop, a food market and Wallace Cotton, which remains a permanent fixture.
Across the road are two of my favourite stores – the Women’s Book Store and Mag Nation, and a bit further down is the famous Scotties Boutique and Zambesi. Of course you can’t go past Workshop and Karen Walker (again), and the many little vintage shops tucked between bars and cafés. I could stay here all day.
Commercial Bay
This new mall in downtown Auckland is obviously designed to cater for the harbour cruisers, but there’s a great amount of variety for your casual shopper here too. It has everything from H&M, General Pants and Lululemon, to Kiwi designer stores, Calvin Klein and Hugo Boss. There’s also some great eatery options with fine dining restaurants such as Ahi, PONI and a whole lot more upstairs.
STAY
QT Auckland
When looking for accommodation, QT Auckland suited us to a T. Centrally located between the Viaduct and Wynyard Quarter, the hotel is a short walk from the downtown shops and restaurants, and a quick Uber to Ponsonby, Parnell and Newmarket.
Its quirky decor is surprising when you walk in from the street. The 20-year-old repurposed office building still fits in with its commercial neighbourhood, yet the interior’s sophisticated character, combined with its avant-garde style, makes you feel as if you’ve travelled to Paris or Berlin. We were offered bubbles on arrival and invited to the rooftop bar where they were celebrating the addition of a new bubbly to their menu. We were planning to go straight up but were so impressed with our rooms that we decided to lounge around in them for a while beforehand.
EAT
QT Rooftop Bar
On our first night at the QT we didn’t even think about leaving the building. We headed up to the top level for a few drinks before dinner, which was booked down on ground level at Esther. The views at the rooftop bar are spectacular, and the cocktails went down a treat after a hard day of shopping. Sipping divine drinks while enjoying the stunning views of the Viaduct and Waitemata Harbour was just what we needed. The place was already packed at 5pm, and somehow got busier as the night wore on. This was obviously the place to be.
Esther
Fronted by top international chef, Sean Connolly, everything about this Mediterranean-inspired restaurant is designed to impress, especially the
food. The slow-cooked roasted lamb was a definite highlight, along with the Truffle Fonduta with ciabatta and black Perigord truffle.
Even breakfast is quite the international food journey with strong Middle Eastern, Asian and Spanish flavours to get us ready for another day of shopping. Dishes such as the Khach a Puri, Baked Shakshuka and Tortilla Espanola were a delight to the taste buds, enough energy for the body and offered just the right amount of stodge to soak up our cocktails from the night before.
Daphnes Bar Taverna
Keeping with our choice of old-timey-turned-trendy-named restaurants, we booked in at Daphnes in Ponsonby for Saturday night. The service was on par with the incredible food, especially when one over-excited friend accidentally flung a whole glass of red wine all over another friend’s newly purchased white Karen Walker blouse. The waiter was immediately to the rescue with laundry tips and expert dabbing. As well as the great wine selection, I would highly recommend the raw scallops,
oyster mushroom skewers and grilled chicken.
The secret garden
A whimsical wonderland lies hidden in Hamurana for storybook lovers of all ages to discover. With a story of her own, the creator has found freedom in its magic.
A whimsical wonderland lies hidden in Hamurana for storybook lovers of all ages to discover. With a story of her own, the creator has found freedom in its magic.
WORDS Hayley Barnett
If it wasn’t for a giant wooden carving of the majestic lion from Narnia sitting at the entrance to Jenna and Brent Austin’s farmyard property, you’d be convinced you were lost. Hamurana’s Enchanted Storybook Nook is hidden away in the back of what looks to be a rundown greenhouse with a small cabin attached.
“You can see people wondering what they’re in for when they arrive,” laughs Jenna, her long blonde curls contrasting against a black fur coat and bright red lipstick. She teeters on high heels as she walks across the grass to greet us.
It’s a beautiful Sunday afternoon. Jenna has just finished tidying up after a birthday party and is rushing back to the house to put her youngest child – one of four – down to sleep. I assume the get-up is part of a character for the party, but she wasn’t involved. This is simply how she dresses day to day, even on the farm, even with four children. Once you see the hidden garden for yourself, Jenna’s eccentricities suddenly make sense.
Just upon entering the small wooden cabin we’re amazed. Made to feel as if you’re stepping back in time, the beauty is in the details. There’s a reading nook and a secret entrance to the restroom, complete with a faux library wall. The large glass drink dispenser labeled ‘Drink Me’, with a tasty potion inside, is the perfect start to our trip into a literal Wonderland.
“The whole concept began in my mind the second I saw the space,” explains Jenna. “Brent and I discovered a hidden, abandoned shade house when we were viewing the property, before we bought it. I knew instantly it could be transformed into a secret garden. Brent suggested we turn it into a chicken coop, but by that point my imagination had already taken flight and planned the entire thing.”
Brent is a builder and agreed to build the cottage at the beginning of the shade house, which is where you enter the garden through the “Narnia wardrobe” – an antique wardrobe Jenna had bought years ago from Trade Me.
As a child, Jenna was captivated by the movie The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. “Discovering an entire world through an old wardrobe was beyond magical to me,” says Jenna. “I actually purchased that wardrobe with the intent of one day building a secret door behind it that entered into my own secret space whenever we found our forever home.”
Many of the layouts have changed and evolved since its inception but the one thing that remains the same is the yellow brick road which meanders through the entire garden. Fast-forward a few years to its near completion, you can now enter through the wardrobe into a snowy Narnia scene, complete with a lion and lamppost. From there the brick road leads you through all Jenna’s favourite books and movies as a child. Hansel and Gretel, Alice In Wonderland, Peter Pan, Mary Poppins, The Wizard of Oz – the list goes on.
“The whole concept really was just for me,” says Jenna. “I never intended it to be for anyone other than myself. Sure, I delighted in the fact that I could take my kids in there to have tea parties and for them to experience their very own wonderland in their backyard but that was by no means my goal. My driving force was my depression and constant need to get reprieve from the emptiness I feel on a daily basis.”
Jenna has suffered from depression and anxiety for most of her life, ever since she was diagnosed with anorexia at age 14. She was hospitalised four times, and although she’s won the battle with her eating disorder, the feelings associated with it have never really left her.
“I notice when I’m creating I’m immersed in the moment, and all the pain and negativity and the screaming chaos in my head almost ceases to exist. Creating a place full of all my favourite childhood books and movies felt so magical.
“It wasn’t that I wanted to escape into a different reality and be a little girl again. I can’t really explain it, so I typed into Google “nostalgia and healing” and this article came up that said ‘actively reminiscing on happy moments or joining in activities that are tied to positive memories can be emotionally soothing’.”
Jenna’s core memories from when she was a child were of tiny tea parties with her grandma, and the happiness she felt when watching her favourite movies. “I was able to revisit a time when life was calm and joyful and happy.”
When Jenna got started on the garden she commissioned her friend, artist Maria Hermans, to paint a storybook-inspired mural. “She went above and beyond and exceeded my expectations,” says Jenna.
Maria also struggles with mental illness and, over time, both Jenna and Maria gained a tremendous amount of positive focus and satisfaction from creating the garden together.
Maria continued to paint more and more, filling up the garden walls as the years went on. Sadly, Jenna’s grandmother, Gloria, passed away recently. In one of the murals, Maria used a photo of Gloria when she was 18 years old to depict her as Glinda, the Good Witch from The Wizard of Oz.
For Jenna, turning 40 this year has coincided with opening up the garden
to the public.
“I’m blown away at how something that simply started off as a personal passion project is now fast becoming a special destination for the young and old to visit,” she says. “I’m really starting to enjoy being able to share what is essentially the very essence of who I am, as well as the adversity I have overcome and am still to overcome. It’s not just a garden to me, and the outpouring of messages I’ve received proves it’s not just a
garden to others either. It really touches people and captures the nostalgia of their childhoods.”
Jenna points out there’s still space to extend the garden, but for now she’s content with allowing the public through and hiring out the space for the occasional party.
“I might look at hiring a fairy entertainer, so we can hold fairy parties,” says Jenna, who has hung up her own fairy wings for now. “Maybe I’ll focus on catering to the adults in a coffee cart.”
Book via Facebook Messenger: theenchantedstorybooknook
Winter on Waiheke
The phrase “on island time” may seem incongruous as wet weather approaches, but Waiheke Island offers the perfect – alas, temporary – escape from winter woes.
The phrase “on island time” may seem incongruous as wet weather approaches, but Waiheke Island offers the perfect – alas, temporary – escape from winter woes.
words Hayley Barnett
It’s widely known that Waiheke Island is the place to be during the summer months, but many are unaware of the island’s lure during the cooler season.
Over winter Waiheke transforms into a different kind of wonderland, with vineyards displaying stunning autumn colours and fewer crowds, providing visitors with more intimate experiences.
With a bit of help, it’s easy to get around the world-class wineries, and if you can find a good place to hunker down when the weather gets bleak, then you’ve found yourself the ideal winter island getaway.
Omana Luxury Villa
Located at Woodside Bay, Omana Luxury Villa boasts breathtaking panoramic views, a private beach, and offers all the modern amenities required for a luxury hideaway.
Upon entering the spacious apartment, it was immediately apparent that relaxing and unwinding are of the utmost importance here. Within 10 minutes of our arrival I was making use of the oversized bathtub while enjoying the view and precariously balancing a glass of Thomas Estate blanc de gris on the side.
The floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the stunning natural beauty surrounding the apartments. Each villa has been given a name – Serenity, Haven, Surrender, and Joy – to reflect the type of experience the owners hope their guests will have during their stay.
The super king bed is perfect for snuggling up and watching movies, which is just what we did for an entire afternoon and night one rainy day – although watching a storm roll by through the huge windows is entertainment enough.
The dining table and kitchenette containing all the necessary appliances allowed us to stay cooped up in luxury, without the need to leave.
When the sun finally came out the following day, we ate breakfast on the private terrace overlooking the incredible views of the rolling hills and water. Each morning breakfast is delivered to your door and includes an omelette, croissants, granola, and fresh fruit with orange juice. Each apartment is equipped with a coffee machine that takes the finest Waiheke beans, so there’s no need to even venture out for a coffee.
Casita Miro
Tour Waiheke
Graeme from Kiwi Connect Tours picked us up right on our doorstep the day after our arrival at Omana. His large-yet-economical and environmentally friendly electric vans make for a comfortable, relaxing journey around the winding hills of Waiheke. And his well-informed chat kept us entertained as he ferried us from vineyard to vineyard. Graeme has been living on Waiheke since 2019, just before the first COVID-19 lockdown decimated his tuktuk business in Auckland. The move to green vehicles was a genius move on Graeme’s part, as much of the island’s population has long been an environmentally conscious community. Since starting the business, Graeme has adapted to island life well, knowing the best places to go and the history behind each winery.
Casita Miro
Our first stop is one of the trendiest vineyards – Casito Miro – to indulge in a wine tasting. At 10am it did seem a little early to start on the vino, but I wasn’t complaining. The Spanish-style building immediately transports you to Barcelona with its Gaudi-esque mosaic design. With the vines stretched out below you as you sample each of Casito Miro’s best wines, you’d be forgiven for believing yourself to be somewhere far beyond in the Mediterranean. Though they do make amazing wines here, it’s the tapas that attracts the foodies. The goat’s cheese croqueta and patatas bravas are menu must-tries.
Batch
Next it was on to Batch, where the young, hip vibe was immediately apparent. Three hens’ dos and posters advertising its summer festivals were the first two giveaways. As we were guided through to the cellar door, a young Frenchman gave us a rundown on what makes Batch so unique. His passion and knowledge for wine was impressive and infectious.
By the time we swayed unsteadily out towards the restaurant for lunch, we felt we were already well-educated wine connoisseurs and looked forward to critiquing our wine matches with lunch.
Cable Bay
Perched atop a hill overlooking Auckland City is the highly reputable Cable Bay.
I have vague, fond memories of spending my 30th here for lunch just over 10 years ago. Not much has changed other than the layout of the restaurant and the menu but, as the saying goes, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Here, we’re treated to a vineyard tour and tasting. The first vineyard was built here in 1998, and today the business has expanded to include the winery, olive groves, organic gardens, two restaurants, event spaces, a cellar door and an expansive outdoor lawn area.
Tantalus Estate Vineyard
Returning home to our villa in the early afternoon after Cable Bay, sheets of rain swept into our island cove and we spent the rest of the day hunkered down watching movies.
Thankfully, it was the rain that saved us from a brutal hangover the next day. We had enough energy reserves to head out to Tantalus Estate before catching our ferry back to the city.
The estate prides itself on using local New Zealand ingredients where executive chef Gideon Landman experiments with bold flavours and textures. We were treated to the Tantalus “Trust The Chef” lunch, which consists of six courses and what seems to be never-ending welcome snacks (not that we were complaining).
The taste and presentation of each dish was exquisite and we were soon on the edges of our seats waiting for each course to arrive.
We waddled out of there fully satisfied and somewhat surprised that we had just experienced one of the best meals of our lives.
Making it back in time for the ferry, we sadly farewelled our temporary island home, right before the rain clouds set back in.
Out of the surf
Whangamatā's biggest attraction might be one of New Zealand’s best beaches, but did you know it’s also the perfect spot for a weekend adventure all year round?
Whangamatā's biggest attraction might be one of New Zealand’s best beaches, but did you know it’s also the perfect spot for a weekend adventure all year round?
Salt District Brewing
A small idea that started in a garage in Whangamatā a few years ago has quickly gained traction among locals and travellers alike. With everything falling into place, Salt District Brewing now has a cellar door located in town. Open Thursday to Saturday, you can sample the brews, which are all made on site, and transport the suds back home in a Salt District flagon (glass amber growler). You can now find the beer in Whangamatā at over six different cafés and restaurants. The team are passionate about their product, their town and community, and aim to stay hyper-local, hosting regular small events. Keep an eye out for Salt District cans at selected retailers soon.
saltdistrictbrewing.co.nz
Whangamata Ridges
Five minutes from the township on State Highway 25, Whangamatā Ridges is a mountain bike park with a difference. It suits everyone, from beginners to experts, with grade two to five trails. There's a fun single track, plenty of downhills and climbs, and the trails offer incredible views of the ocean and forest, cleared forest terrain and native bush.
whangamataridges.nz
Camina
Camina is a restaurant that honours the ancient bond between humans and fire. A celebration of owners Barend and Rowan's shared passions for food, music and community, the restaurant uses locally sourced ingredients cooked over the open fire as a way of recreating the experience of sharing stories, warmth and the simplicity of eating together. With a Spanish and North African influence, the menu and wine list is ever-changing with the seasons.
Bella Design
Located on Whangamatā’s main road, Bella is a gift and homeware store offering a carefully curated selection of quality gifts and homewares catered to a slow beach life and bach aesthetic. From accessories and fashion to gifts, lighting and furniture, Bella is one of those stores that needs to be experienced to be believed.
Palm Pacific Resort & Motel
Nestled in the vibrant heart of Whangamatā lies Palm Pacific Resort & Motel — a haven of modern two-bedroom apartments amid a tropical oasis, with established facilities for all guests. Experience the convenience of town-centre living, where every amenity, café and golden-sand beach is just a leisurely stroll away. With a children's playground next door, your perfect coastal escape awaits. Palmpacificresort.com
(Re)Built to enjoy
Christchurch is like the adventurous and fun friend everyone needs
Christchurch is like the adventurous and fun friend everyone needs.
Words Jenny Rudd / Images supplied
Starting over again after everything’s fallen apart takes grit. Marian Johnson, CEO of Ōtautahi Christchurch’s Ministry of Awesome said that the city had a choice to just rebuild what they’d lost, or go for gold and reimagine where they want to live. Christchurch is shaping up to be a seriously special city in our beautiful country.
Te Pae Convention Centre
A brand new, futuristic curve of reflective metal and glass features 43,000 herringbone tiles, a nod to the region’s braided rivers. The centre buzzed with life on our visit. Tourists and locals filled the space as they meandered through art exhibitions and a television crew was set up
in the entrance interviewing delegates to a conference. Puamiria Parata-Goodall says, “The ancestral bones of Ngāi Tahu are in this land. The new Ōtautahi reflects both its Ngāi Tahu and European history. Māori language, art, and stories are recognised and celebrated like they haven’t been before. My ancestors have their voice back again in our landscape.”
Murals
Huge bangs of colour, life and passion are spread across the raw faces of buildings throughout the CBD. Art says something words can’t. It gives the city warmth, and is an indication of where they are headed. There’s a sense of purpose and fun that made us feel like we wanted to stay there and be part of it.
Mount Dobson
No trip to the South Island is complete without a trip to Mount Dobson (that’s the word from my teens, anyway). This year the mountain’s season straddled both school holidays in July and October, making for an elongated season at the warm end, with great snow and sun in the sky. It’s about two-ish hours from Christchurch, making it a good overnight detour, especially if you bunk down in Fairlie near the bakehouse and its famous pies.
Ministry of Awesome
Does everything it says on the tin. The output of MoA is world-changing startups, solving every kind of global problem you can imagine. And it’s led by the indomitable Marian Johnson, who’s leading the charge to put Christchurch on the global map. We were invited to the demo day event at the end of Electrify Accelerator, where 20 female-founded startups had been working to grow their businesses over 12 weeks, and then pitched to a room full of the country’s top investors.
She Is Not Your Rehab
One of the startups that has been through the Ministry of Awesome’s programme. Conversations between founder Matt Brown and clients in his barbershop to help men break the cycle of abuse they have been born into, has spawned a whole movement. Matt and his wife Sarah have set up an art gallery in the CBD, where you can get a limited edition print of a piece of artwork by Tauranga’s Mr G. You can also get married there; Sarah is a celebrant! This couple are determined to change the world by healing our tāne and break the cycle of generational physical and sexual abuse.
The tram
We didn’t have a car with us, as it’s a short Uber ride into the city, and why drive when you can take the tram!? Kōrero about Christchurch’s history, the rebuilds post-earthquake, and the cultural landscape of the city gave us a local’s view of the city. We bought an all-day ticket, and rode round the circuit a couple of times. If you can get a reservation, The Tramway Restaurant looked extremely fun!
Riverside Market
We didn’t cook a single meal in Christchurch. As soon as we discovered this market, there was no mental space for anything else. The list of must-tries in here is as long as my arm. On day one I barely got through the entrance before I was eating a dosa crammed with fragrant chicken curry. I pushed it all down with a beesting. Oh. My. Word. A brioche, soaked in honey, stuffed with a mascarpone custard and sprinkled with flaked almonds. Thank goodness the tram was outside. I needed a moment before walking again.
Seaside staycation
Tourism and the Bay of Plenty go hand-in-hand this summer, with activities and adventures for everyone – plus plenty of opportunities to relax, eat, and take it all in.
Tourism and the Bay of Plenty go hand-in-hand this summer, with activities and adventures for everyone – plus plenty of opportunities to relax, eat, and take it all in.
Polynesian Spa
An iconic geothermal oasis on Lake Rotorua's shores, Polynesian Spa has been a global wellness destination for 50 years. Its 28 mineral-rich pools provide soothing experiences, from muscle relief in the Priest Spring to skin nourishment in the Rachel Spring. Geothermal marvels create a serene lakeside setting, complemented by diverse spa treatments, yoga, and meditation. Enjoy thoughtfully prepared meals at the café and discover unique gifts.
Luxe Cinemas
Looking for something to do on those rainy days? Luxe Cinemas has recently launched
in Tauranga and Papamoa, showcasing a wide range of films, from art house and documentaries to Hollywood blockbusters. The family-owned boutique cinema chain believes that going to the cinema should be an experience. With a luxurious lounge area, plush couches and beautiful foliage, even arriving at the cinema feels like the ultimate escapism. Sit back with your choice of beverage – perhaps a Mills Reef wine, Fitzpatrick craft beer or Excelso coffee – and snack to enjoy your film in luxury.
Dolphin Seafaris
Encounter wild dolphins on a thrilling adventure with Dolphin Seafaris. Set sail in the beautiful open waters of Tauranga and head out on an unforgettable journey to witness these enchanting creatures in their natural habitat. This is one for the whole family. Book your seats through the website or over the phone.
Flavours of Plenty Festival 2024
Having recently earned two awards at the NZEA New Zealand Event Awards for Best Local Government Event 2023 and Best Lifestyle Event 2023, the Flavours of Plenty Festival is returning again next year. Embark on a gastronomic adventure spanning from Waihī Beach to Ōhope Beach for eleven days, from April
4 to 14, 2024. Explore the coastal wonders of the Bay of Plenty as delectable treats collide in degustations, workshops, dish challenges, cook-offs, long lunches, tours, and so much more. Tickets and the programme will be unveiled in February 2024.
SmallGusta
What happens when you shrink a golf course to 10 percent of its size? You get Smallgusta! Only 15 minutes from the CBD and the Mount is New Zealand’s premium miniature golf course. Perfectly fun for all abilities, Smallgusta is a nine-hole, par 35 putting challenge with epic views, licensed café as well as thermally heated pools.
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 9pm.
Marshalls Animal Park
Looking for something fun to do with the kids? Marshalls Animal Park provides a fabulous day out in the country for young and old. Hand feed the friendly animals, check out the eel spring, and play on the flying fox playground. Bring a packed lunch to enjoy at the picnic tables, then head off for an easy nature walk, with an option to drive if needing special access. Pony rides available 11.30am to 1.30pm. Located at 140 McLaren Falls Road just outside Tauranga, the farm is open weekends and holidays 10am to 4.30pm, and Wednesdays to Fridays 10am to 2pm.
Mount Surf Academy
Experience the joy of surfing at Mount Maunganui beach this summer. Expert instructors make learning to surf a blast. Mount Surf Academy provides surf therapy, surf for mums, a women's programme, surf and yoga sessions, group packages to Matakana Island, plus many more fun activities.
Coastal charm
Sun, sand, strolls along the beach… Ōhope is a little slice of paradise with so many options for families, couples, and solo travellers to enjoy this summer.
Sun, sand, strolls along the beach… Ōhope is a little slice of paradise with so many options for families, couples, and solo travellers to enjoy this summer.
The beautiful Ōhope, just 6km from Whakatāne, is one of the Bay of Plenty’s hidden gems. With 11km of pristine golden sand, along with picturesque natural beauty, native birds and views of Whakaari/White Island and Moutohorā/Whale Island, it’s been voted
New Zealand’s most-loved beach for a reason.
Ōhope’s new hotspot
Situated at Port Ōhope Wharf, Wharfside is the place to be this season. Bring your family and friends and set off on a harbour cruise, hire SUP, kayaks, and e-scooters for some family fun, or sit and relax with a craft beer and bite to eat while the kids practice their manus off the wharf. This popular spot is open from December 27 through February 5, and select weekends throughout autumn. Visit the pop-up isite Visitor Information Centre to get all the inspo – and booking assistance – you need to
have an epic Eastern Bay summer.
Cruise & shuck
Discover Ōhiwa’s rich history, oyster farming, cultural significance and stunning harbour on an immersive Ōhiwa Tour. Experience the ocean’s bounty through an engaging oyster experience where you’ll learn the art of shucking oysters, followed by a tasting of delicious kaimoana. Tio Ōhiwa is more than just an oyster farm and takeaway shop; it's a community hub and indigenous-owned business that believes in bringing people together through good food and good company.
Get movin’
The calm waters, easy beach access and great scenery make VMAC Rides’ base on Wharfside, Ōhiwa Harbour the perfect place to have a go at stand-up paddleboarding. Whether you are a first-timer or a seasoned professional, VMAC Rides has the boards for you to get out there and enjoy yourself! Or if you’d rather stay on land, you can explore this little slice of paradise on an eScooter or eBike. Suitable for both adults and children, it’s a great way to have family fun together.
vmacrides.co.nz
Mata Brewery
Mata Brewery Taproom & Eatery is a much-loved family-friendly gathering place for Whakatāne locals and visitors alike. With a selection of 12 taps and several packaged options, there’s a wide variety of beer and cider to satisfy every taste. Try a tasting tray or grab a glass – they have a good selection of wine, low-alcohol, and non-alcoholic drinks, too. At Wharfside, they'll have a pop-up brewery with all their favourite beers and ciders, bar snacks and live music. It's a great spot to sit and relax while the kids swim and jump off the wharf.
Must-dos nearby
Surf and turf
Gaze at the stellar harbour views, take in a stellar sunset, and enjoy the beachy vibe from the spacious deck of Fisherman’s Wharf Café. Surf and turf is their speciality, with excellent steaks and sumptuous seafood – try the fish tacos – and there’s a decent beer and wine selection to ease you into another relaxed Ōhope evening. If you’re wanting tasty takeaways, fish and chips are available from the handy window too.
facebook.com/fishermanswharfcafe
Take to the water
With experienced guides who know the local history and environment, KG Kayaks offers tours and freedom hires in a variety of locations around the Whakatāne and Ōhope Beach area. The relaxing, family-friendly Ōhiwa Harbour tours, and trip out to Moutohorā/Whale Island via sailing catamaran are particularly memorable, with regular wildlife encounters and a hot water beach experience making it a day to remember. Novices are welcome, and safety is always first priority – they also offer options for school and corporate days out.
On the trail
Perfect for cyclists and walkers alike, the Ōhope Harbourside Trail is a gentle amble for all ages and abilities. Winding along the shoreline of one of our most unspoiled and culturally significant estuaries, Ōhiwa Harbour, you’ll come across a multitude of birdlife, shellfish and fish species. Traversing esplanade and recreational reserves, the walk has been designed to ensure the least disruption to the natural environment while allowing for stunning views.
Heart of the village
A wander into Bethlehem Town Centre uncovers some hidden treasures, both old and new
A wander into Bethlehem Town Centre uncovers some hidden treasures, both old and new.
If you haven’t visited Bethlehem Town Centre recently, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to discover new offerings among its boutique specialist shops.
Ko Ko Dak is the newest eatery on the block, offering Korean cuisine with a twist. Now a choice of burgers offers even more of a fusion between east and west.
Luxurious new nail bar Majestic Nail Salon is a relaxing stop for shoppers looking for some retail respite, with a comfortable space and competitive pricing.
Other favourites like Caroline Eve, award-winning salon Rodney Wayne and home of Tauranga's famous fudgery Options Gifts on the High Street
make it easy to lose yourself in a day of retail therapy and pampering indulgence.
With spring upon us, the allure of Bethlehem's High Street lies not only in its boutique treasures but also in its inviting ambiance. For those seeking a touch of nature, take a leisurely stroll through “the grove”, a serene enclave of native trees accessible via a charming boardwalk. With over a dozen mature trees, the grove creates an atmosphere of relaxation and tranquillity.
Shoppers can begin the day with a steaming cup of rejuvenating coffee at one of the charming cafés that bookend the street, like the revamped outdoor dining at The Coffee Club. Or savour the scenic views from Columbus Coffee, where a menu of local favourites await, curated by owners Alana and Steve.
So whether you're drawn to designer fashion, pampering beauty treatments, or a serene natural retreat, Bethlehem Town Centre's High Street has something for every discerning visitor. Unveil the charm of this shopping haven and indulge in the pleasures that await around every corner.
TRENDING IN BETHLEHEM
Fashion and gifting is at the forefront of Bethlehem Town Centre. Some of the village style gurus tell us what’s on offer for spring.
SHOO
Shoo is welcoming a fun new season with a pop of colour for spring. Handcrafted shoes from Italy showcase bright oranges, cobalt blues and emerald greens. With a strong European influence in store, key brands this season include Laura Bellariva, Repo, Manufacture d'essai, and Repaini, all from Italy. Kathryn Wilson is bringing a touch of 70s with cork outsoles on high platforms and fun colours with bags to match. New sunglasses range Otra is in store and well priced from $89.
AFTER HOURS BOUTIQUE
With main designer brands being Joseph Ribkoff, Frank Lyman and Anthea Crawford, the trending colours for Spring/Summer 23 are hot pink (thank you, Barbie!) and emerald green. Tropical florals are going to be popular for wedding season, while sequins are having a major comeback for party/cocktail wear. There are a lot of floaty styles coming in as well as more structured silhouettes.
URBAN VOGUE & GEORGE EDWARD
Two iconic fashion boutiques sit side by side in the town centre. The sister boutiques stock some of the country's leading fashion designers such as Kinney, Lemontree and Nice Things, Blackstone, MIMOSO and Noa Noa. Led by a small and experienced team who help their customers curate beautiful, stylish looks that are built on quality, taste and superb design, it's an experience to shop here that is matched only by overseas fashion houses.
TANGO’S SHOES
Chrissie Blazen (pictured) is fashioned with linen, giving an earthy, minimalistic look – a key style this spring. Providing an effortless flair
with chic ruffled French pleat detail, the look is finished with this stunning mule. Available in Natural and Black Linen. Exclusive European brands include Aerobics, Andacco, Carrano, Gaimo, Plakton and Viguera.
BETHLEHEM EYE CARE
Discover the epitome of elegance in eyecare at Bethlehem Eye Care,
where independent optometrist Stuart Willats and his team redefine vision excellence. With more than 20 years experience delivering unparalleled high quality and professional care, they specialise in comprehensive eye examinations, precision contact lens fittings and bespoke spectacles. Brands include Woody®, Barcelona, Face & Cie and Vanni.
DECK THE HALLS
Bethlehem Town Centre is gearing up for a busy Christmas season. Each year, the centre makes the most of its open-air village experience by featuring Santa’s sleigh, Tauranga’s biggest Christmas tree and New Zealand’s largest Nutcracker Soldier. There will be some fun new additions to this year’s Christmas installs, including some Christmas card-worthy photo opportunities with gingerbread man and Santa chairs, and a 3D Christmas card. The village is also home to a beloved Santa – he’s a third-generation Santa Claus!
Colourful Katikati
Natural beauty meets artistic expression in this picturesque little town.
Natural beauty meets artistic expression in this picturesque little town.
Katikati might, arguably, be one of the most underrated towns in New Zealand. Probably due to the fact that it’s a stop and go kind of place – easy to pass by. But you might be surprised to discover this small town offers some big attractions. There’s an abundance of art, plenty of scenic walking and cycle trails, excellent fishing and – of course – the freshest avocados you’ll find.
The town’s artistic heritage is obvious to anyone who’s ever passed through. Instead of the usual boring white walls, many businesses are decorated with showstopping, brightly coloured murals that tell the story of Katikati’s Māori and Pakeha peoples coming together. It’s definitely worth grabbing a coffee and a bite and moseying up the main street to check them out in detail. This unique burst of colour along the main street earned the town the title of New Zealand’s Mural Town.
But that’s just one reason for art lovers to visit. Katikati also boasts Aotearoa’s biggest open-air art gallery, which aims to make the whole town a work of art!
Keen anglers will want to pack their best rod and head to Kauri Point jetty which is a favourite spot for local fishermen. If the fish aren’t biting, why not walk the length of the jetty out into the spectacular harbour?
If you prefer to view the water from land then Lindemann Lookout offers stunning selfie opportunities with a 180-degree view over the Tauranga Harbour.
Don’t forget your walking shoes, as there are many scenic walks to enjoy. The Haiku Pathway is a must, as you discover the many boulders engraved with the popular Japanese form of poetry. The Beach Road loop is a casual, easy stroll with splendid views and bird watchers will find an ample amount of avians on the bird walk.
If you can, timing your stay with one |of Katikati’s many events would be ideal. Fortunately, the town is buzzing with events year-round, meaning you won’t have to wait long. Just some of the popular events include the famed Avocado Food and Wine Festival, the Festival of Cultures, Sheds in Studios Ramble, Christmas in the Park, the Twilight Concert Series and the Katikati A&P Show.
With all this going for it, it’s no wonder Katikati won the Keep New Zealand Beautiful Society’s “Most Beautiful Small Town” award in 2005.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
UNO catches up with Peter Watson, Western Bay of Plenty District Council Reserves and Facilities manager, to find out all about the best cycle and walking trails Katikati has to offer.
Words Karl Puschmann
Cycle and walking trails have only grown in popularity over the years, and Katikati was quick to recognise the potential of the natural splendour of their backyard. The development of a network of various trails in the area has been underway for quite a few years now. While many are completed, the ambitious project is ongoing and promises to result in some of the most scenic and enjoyable walking and cycling trails around.
“We've done trails around the harbour so people can experience and interface with it,” Peter says. “We’re also currently in the middle of building a 1.2 kilometres shared pathway that goes from the Yeoman Bridge along the edge of the Uretara River to Park Road Reserve. That'll be really awesome when it's done. You’re going to get to see all the lovely birdlife and what have you that's associated with the use of the water.”
The Tauranga harbour (moana) is incredibly scenic, with inspiring views and a bustling wildlife population, something Peter is particularly passionate about.
“There's a lot of birdlife here. If you follow the Uretara River down into the harbour there’s freshwater and saltwater interface, which gives you a mixture of fish and things like that,” he explains. “The water goes up and flushes in so there’s a lot of kingfisher, ducks, pied stilts and even royal spoonbills as well. A lot of people like it there. It’s a very peaceful, quiet place.”
Walk the walk
Whether you’re after a casual stroll enjoying the views or prefer to power through and walk a sweat up Katikati has a trail to match your level. Meandering through Haiku Park is a real draw card for a meditative jaunt. For access to the Northern Kaimai Ranges, head out to the end of Wharawhara Road where you can access walking tracks in the Kaimai’s.
“There's a range of walks,” Peter says. “After COVID-19, people have been looking for an excuse to get out. They’ve started to appreciate the value of open spaces and the sense of well-being you get being in nature.”
The Tamawhariua Reserve trail is a 2.9km coastal walk that offers a casual loop for both walkers and cyclists and you’re welcome to take your dog as long as you keep it leashed. At a breezy 41 minutes, it’s a good way to stretch your legs.
Alternatively, the Aongatete 6.6km long loop track at the end of Wright Road offers a moderate challenge through native forest complete with stream crossings and fallen trees to amble over. Fido will have to stay home for this one, however, as dogs are not permitted due to the abundance of birdlife in the forest.
As for Peter, he can’t pick a favourite trail. He says he loves them all as they’ve worked hard to ensure the trails encapsulate the land, water and sky.
“You can really connect with nature, trees and native vegetation and bird life here,” he says. “What we're trying to do is give people an experience where you can take longer or shorter routes.”
ON YER BIKE
As with its walking tracks, Katikati also provides for cyclists of all skills.
“There’s a variation to the cycling experience,” he says, noting most trails are loops so riders can feel like they’re going somewhere rather than having to bike back along the same path. “We've got a big cycle network with a range of different grades to explore. ”
Along with the Katikati Trails Development Group, Council wants to get people on their bikes around the trails and have a great experience. "By offering a variety of cycle trail options, which includes Waitekohekohe Reserve up Thompson's Track Road, with dedicated purpose-built mountain bike trails and equestrian tracks that include a galloping track and jumping ally, we hope to get people visiting more often to use the trails."
LIVE, PLAY, EAT, KATIKATI
These must-visit stopovers showcase the best that Katikati has to offer
NURTURING NATURE
Discover this gift shop with a gorgeous range of homewares, gifts and our very own range of honey, which is crafted on site. Our charming retail store is adjacent to our manufacturing facility which is open for tours by appointment. BeeNZ is working with nature and the environment to bring its customers the highest quality New Zealand honey.
TASTE OF TRADITION
Step into a world of legacy and indulgence at this family-owned establishment, where history intertwines with exceptional dining experiences. Celebrating over 130 years in Katikati, The Talisman proudly embraces local growers and family-owned enterprises. Unveil the magic of the restaurant, sports bar, garden bar and boutique accommodation, where award-winning chefs craft bistro-style masterpieces. Savour the taste of tradition, with each bite taking you on a remarkable journey.
GET CRAFTY
Experience the vibrant Katikati Artisan Craft Market, an enchanting rendezvous on the third Sunday of each month from 9am to 1pm. Nestled at the A & P Showgrounds, immerse yourself in a treasure trove of locally handcrafted wonders. With great coffee and hot toasties, unleash your inner explorer and indulge in a shopping spree like no other. Join us amidst the breathtaking beauty of the BOP, where even furry friends on leads are embraced. Discover that extraordinary find for yourself or someone dear, and make every moment a masterpiece.
HEALTHY SIP
Discover the real taste of refreshment with Dr Bucha's Living Drinks! Crafted by the talented duo, Donna and Fin McDonald, our kombucha is
a healthy alternative to soft drinks and alcohol. We add real fruit flavourings directly to the bottles, ensuring an authentic experience. Locally made and hand-crafted, our kombucha supports the community and delights customers. Join us at the Katikati Produce Market or visit our website for free local delivery. Embrace a healthy choice with Dr Bucha's Living Drinks.
NATURAL PET CARE
HoneyVet was developed by two friends – one a veterinarian and the other with an extensive background in the New Zealand honey industry. Both saw a need to provide our animal friends with a much safer alternative to skin and coat care using nature's healing properties, from this, HoneyVet was born. HoneyVet is made locally in Katikati from locally sourced ingredients and is exclusively available to purchase at BeeNZ or online.
TRIP TO THE PAST
Step back in time at Western Bay Museum – New Zealand's premier small museum. Immerse yourself in the 1900s with our interactive group tours. A guided tour involves period costumes, fascinating exhibitions, freshly baked scones and tea served in antique bone china. Book now for an unforgettable experience. Open Monday to Friday 10am-4pm, weekends and public holidays 11am-3pm. Visit us at the historic Fire Station building on Main Road, Katikati. Don't miss out on this extraordinary journey loved by locals, groups and families.
WELCOME TO FAIRVIEW ESTATE
Only a couple of minutes from Katikati lies Fairview Estate, a lifestyle subdivision situated between the sheltering Kaimai Ranges and the beautiful Tauranga Harbour.
Take a breather
Café Nineteen operates seven days a week and is open to all. With both indoor and outdoor seating and bar areas, with views over the golf course, this relaxing setting provides the perfect environment to enjoy a meal and drink either after a round of golf or just catching up with family and friends. They’d be happy to host your next function too, no matter how big or small.
Play a round
Fairview Golf Course is an 18-hole course that offers one of the best golfing experiences in the area. There are also a number of facilities, including a fully stocked golf shop and practice areas, as well as a fleet of golf carts. It is the local club for Katikati and has a range of membership options available which come with many benefits. Green fee players are encouraged to come and play on the wonderful course.
Home sweet home
Why not enjoy the wonderful facilities and everything on offer at Fairview year-round by making it your new home? Fairview is one of the best lifestyle subdivisions in the area and has a limited amount of freehold, including golf course fronting, house and land packages still available. The purchase of a property at Fairview also comes with membership to the exclusive Country Club, which gives you use of the indoor pool and spa, health studio, tennis courts, barbeque and petanque areas, plus more along with all the community spirit that comes with it.
34 Sharp Road, Katikati
Follow the light
Head over to Whakatāne this season, where you’ll find colourful artworks and not one but two bright and shining celebrations this winter.
Head over to Whakatāne this season, where you’ll find colourful artworks and not one but two bright and shining celebrations this winter.
Words | Karl Puschmann
Whakatāne promises to light up the region this winter as the Trust Horizon Light Up Whakatāne Festival returns to bathe the town in warm hues and bright neon.
Following on from an incredibly successful debut last year, which saw attendance exceeding planners' estimates four times over, the organisers have gone all out to make this year’s 10-day event bigger – and most definitely brighter.
“The festival consists of about 16 artists and their work will be spread out over the Whakatāne CBD,” Sam Poots, the project co-ordinator for Arts Whakatāne, tells UNO. “It’s a mix of installations, projections and interactive standalone objects that will be lit up from 6pm to 9pm each night.”
The roster has been curated from local and regional artists like Jamie Boynton and Kereama Taepa, and includes Story Box in collaboration with artist Desna Whaanga-Schollum. Additionally, there’s some global flavour as, for the first time, a sprinkling of work from internationally acclaimed artists like Australia’s James Voller will be lighting up the town centre.
But the real highlight of the festival are the Friday and Saturday night celebrations. It was due to last year’s community night being such a hit that this year it was decided to add another one.
“We estimated having 300 to 500 people turn up at the community evening. We had over 2000,” Sam smiles. “It was hugely gratifying and heartwarming to know that the community really wanted this. We had such positive feedback. Around the artworks, around it being family friendly and something unique to Whakatāne. It brought the community together.”
While details are still being locked in, the first Friday will feature the expected festival-type experience including performers, food trucks and stalls, while the brand-new Saturday event will include a big Lantern parade down by the Whakatāne River.
Last year’s festival was about getting the community involved, but this year Sam is hoping its unique nature, and the impressiveness and fun of its electric art, will bring out-of-towners to the city to experience it for themselves.
“Whakatāne is very summer orientated with the beaches and sunshine so we really wanted to create an event in winter,” Sam says. “Because of the popularity of light festivals, we saw it as a really good opportunity to bring something here, provide opportunities for artists to display their works and say, ‘Hey, look, we've got this awesome event on, come see it and explore Whakatāne in wintertime.’”
With its focus on community and family, stunning and unique artworks and big Friday and Saturday nights, Whakatāne has become a real bright spot in an otherwise dark winter.
The Trust Horizon Light Up Whakatāne Festival runs from July 28 to August 6 in the CBD and is a completely free event.
Whakatane Travel Guide
Whakatāne is spoiled for choice when it comes to eateries and things to do. Here are some recommendations on where to spend your time when you’re in town.
Mata Brewery
The craft beer craze has hopped into Whakatāne, and beer lovers will be in heaven at the award-winning, family-owned Mata Brewery. Try their range of handcrafted brews, like West End Lager, Spellbound Hazy IPA and Manuka Golden Ale. The more adventurous will enjoy Mattachino Coffee Chocolate Milk Stout or Berry Sundae Beer. Accompany your tasting with a full range of stone-cooked pizzas, gourmet burgers and hard-to-resist loaded wedges.
The Comm
This gastropub on the ground floor of a beautiful heritage building offers an extensive menu of pub favourites, as well as gourmet delights like twice-cooked pork belly and coconut lime ceviche. Stylish inside and with a sizable garden bar, it’s a great place for an afternoon drink that can stretch into dinner.
Golfer’s Paradise
A short drive from town is the Whakatāne Golf Club, an 18-hole championship course that is renowned for being one of the finest in the Bay of Plenty. Over the hill you'll find the truly unique Ōhope Beach Golf Links, nestled on a strip of land that lies between the Pacific Ocean on one side and Ohiwa Harbour on the other – the views while playing are simply magnificent. Why not try to make a hole in one at both?
Footprints of Toi
Whakatāne has sensational walking and tramping trails. You'll either enjoy a brilliant walk along the coastline soaking in its stunning ocean vistas, or plunge into the natural beauty and greenery of its ancient native forests. At the Ngā Tapuwae o Toi Trail, translated as “Footprints of Toi”, you'll follow birdsong through native forest past pohutukawa while also enjoying sublime coastal views of the Whakatāne harbour. The 16km round trip takes five to seven hours, but it’s split into three sections so you can enjoy shorter jaunts.
Kiwi Wandering Trail
Whakatāne is recognised as the Kiwi Capital of the World, and our national icon thrives here thanks to the tireless work of the Whakatāne Kiwi Trust, who ensure a safe, predator-free place for them. If you have kids, they'll love exploring the Kiwi Wandering Trail, a self-guided scavenger hunt through town looking for the 10 hidden, life-sized bronze statues of our iconic bird.
Rail rider
From the mountains to the tussock grasslands, through picturesque towns and over soaring bridges, taking the train will start your vacation on the right track.
From the mountains to the tussock grasslands, through picturesque towns and over soaring bridges, taking the train will start your vacation on the right track.
Words Rebecca Meyer
Whenever I told people we were embarking on a “grown-up family” long weekend to Wellington and were taking the train, I would often get an enthusiastic response: “Oh, that’s cool! I've always wanted to do that!”
This would be the third journey on the Northern Explorer for my folks, whom it’s safe to say were hooked on the whole rail experience. After coming home from their first trip a few years ago, they made us all promise that one day we’d all make the journey together. Bless Daughter Number One, whom we fondly call “Spreadsheet Sophie”. She coordinated, arranged, planned and booked everything, ensuring all our busy schedules aligned for the impending adventure ahead.
The Northern Explorer is an epic 648km journey which connects multicultural Auckland to our bustling capital Wellington. However, we began our adventure in Hamilton, boarding at 10.15am from the busy platform at Frankton Street Station.
Travelling by train is a sociable affair, and our “Spreadsheet Sophie” managed to book the perfect seating arrangement, ensuring all eight of us sat together. We had adjoining seats with a table in the centre, straight across the aisle from one another. This was well planned on our part considering all five carriages were full, including families with young children, lots of couples and larger groups of all ages. Travel by rail is obviously a popular mode of transport when visiting Wellington.
Straightaway it was obvious everything’s been done to ensure you feel comfortable and relaxed as you sink back in your seat and get ready to soak up the North Island scenery. With spacious seating, and generous amounts of legroom, our Scenic Class carriage delivered air-conditioned comfort for the clickity-clack journey ahead. With a fully-licensed bar on board, we were able to sit back and enjoy several world-famous New Zealand wines and local beers while someone else took care of the driving.
If it’s a large meal you’re after, the dining cart offers plenty of options, from braised beef cheeks and Moroccan spiced vegetable salad, or classics like roasted free range chicken and lamb shank, and for the smaller appetite, there's plenty of savoury snacks and sweet treats to satisfy everyone. Having cash with you is advisable, as the train often travels out of network range, but they do provide all credit and debit card payment facilities. The friendly staff even allowed us to run a tab.
The scenery was quite honestly breathtaking, weaving through the rolling hills of the King Country. The historic Raurimu Spiral at the southern tip of the Central Plateau was a real highlight and was designed in 1898 to make the 139-metre ascent into the plateau possible. Navigating our way around the foothills of Mount Ruapehu, a series of three steeping viaducts bridge the deep ravines carved by the rivers across Tongariro National Park.
What makes this all the more breathtaking is being able to stroll to the open air viewing carriage to breathe in and taste the atmosphere − you truly get to appreciate our beautiful country.
Reaching the Kapiti Coast, we cling to the cliffs high above the ocean, with spectacular views of the Tasman Sea and Kapiti Island.
As we near the end of our journey, reaching Porirua Harbour, it's close to 7pm on a warm, balmy summer evening. The short stretch between Porirua and Paremata is a scenic gem, and a stunning way to end our epic rail adventure. This truly is an unforgettable day-long adventure, and a unique experience well worth sharing with family or a group of friends. Because Wellington's city train service is so good, we don't need a car for the long weekend away. So to everyone who’s ever wondered if it’s worth the $214 one-way train ticket on the Northern Explorer to Wellington, I’d say yes, do it if it’s on your bucket list!
Northern Explorer Auckland to Wellington trains run Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays.
DESTINATIONS: Auckland • Hamilton
Otorohanga (Waitomo Caves) • Taumarunui
Tongariro National Park • Ohakune
Palmerston North • Wellington.