Island of the gods

Whether itʼs surfing, trekking or meditating that floats your boat, Bali proves its a tropical destination for one and all.

words NICKY ADAMS

Before booking a trip to Bali I asked around incessantly for opinions and found that people very much fell into two camps. Comments ranged from ‘I absolutely love it, would go every year if I could’ versus ‘too much traffic, too commercial’.

After a little deliberation matched with airfares that made it cheaper than a trip to Fiji, our family decided to take the plunge.

Arriving in Denpasar airport late afternoon, the general lack of clear instruction in immigration was confusing, but introduction of E-gates meant those with children of 14 and over could avoid all queues and zoom through. A little pre-planning meant we had booked a driver to pick us up (anyone who has been to Bali will usually be able to pass on a contact) and because traffic is notoriously bad post 4pm we had decided to stay cheaply close to the airport in Kuta with a view to starting the trip properly the next day. Our driver (Wayan) returned to pick us up at 9am, and without much idea of what we really wanted to do, other than end up in Ubud, Wayan took charge of the immediate itinerary and we hit the road.

Weaving through streets where around every corner there is a stunning temple, meant that even without a specific tourist attraction in mind, everything felt exciting and vibrant. Ubud is both a town and a district. The area is thick with rainforest and known for its breathtaking terraced rice fields, while also being an arts centre and cultural capital. Bali is predominantly Hindu in faith (with Muslim, Christian and Buddhism all much smaller denominations), and Ubud is home to many ancient relics of religious significance. Stopping at one of the ‘Big Swings’, where you take your life in your hands while you fly through the air over steep drops down to lush green rice terraces, the breathtaking scenery gives the combined benefit of adrenalin rush and top tourist attraction rolled into one. The same location offered a journey through the process of manufacturing Luwak, the well-known Balinese coffee produced via the intestines of a civet. Yes, the coffee beans are eaten and pooped out by civets. Freakish though it sounds, the product is delicious, and was one of many superb Balinese coffee blends – I’ll admit to returning with an addiction for strong filtered coffee.

Ubud can be done as a day tour, however I would highly recommend it as a destination worthy of longer. The streets are packed with sights – amongst the many, while here we visited the authentic Neka Art Museum, traditional Art Market, Saraswati Temple and the magnificent Ubud Palace. Shop after shop offers multiple artisan gifts, along with jewellery and clothes – and a covered market is an emporium of delights. It takes a while to get the hang of the bartering system – tempering guilt at haggling with the desire not to be ridiculously ripped off, makes this a learning curve. Shopping and temples aside, Ubud boasts some amazing restaurants and multiple boutique hotels which are of the highest international standard but at a fraction of the price. As a family of five we preferred two bedrooms, and as one of our children has a nut allergy we wanted to be able to prepare our own food, which we could achieve by staying in the villa part of a hotel. This came with a lounge, kitchen and our own pool. At the higher end of the accommodation options, the service (cocktails) and facilities were unsurpassed. There was also a great deal of reassurance knowing the hygiene standards were exacting and water used in everything was purified, so ice was safe and plentiful. Here in Ubud there are plenty of accommodation options available, at a price point to suit any budget or individual needs.

With monkeys roaming the streets, pilfering from store owners and tourists alike, there is an authenticity to Ubud that, despite the crowds, cannot dull its charm. I had heard differing opinions on the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (too touristy/biting monkeys), but desire to experience it outweighed the fear of a showdown with a fearsome primate. Forewarned is forearmed – and I would say that if you have few ‘removables’ and treat the monkeys with respect you would be unlucky to be targeted (although one did steal my daughter’s ice block out of her hand as we left). Watching them swing around you, frolic in front of you, tend to tiny babies and generally go about their business was nothing short of magical.

Writer Nicky and the family at their villa, located between Legian and Seminyak.

Knowing the 40-minute drive to the coastal town of Seminyak would take much longer than this in traffic, combining a change of location with more sightseeing seemed a great option. Our trusty driver came to pick us up, and together we worked out a route, which took in Tibumana (the not-so-secret secret waterfall) and Tirta Empul Temple, which is considered the most sacred temple amongst the Balinese Hindu community. All the time weaving through scenic countryside of rice fields and multiple other less known attractions. Feeling that we had well and truly ticked the tourist box, once we arrived at our beach destination, there was no guilt in the following days centred around mooching, shopping, eating, drinking and enjoying the blazing heat. If beach is important to your trip, then there are breathtaking beaches to discover, and Bali is a well-known surf destination.

Seminyak/Legian beach is a cool spot, by night dotted in multi-coloured bean bags and cranking out music to chill to as the sun goes down. But for beach alone it would not have the biggest pull. However, the area itself is everything you could want and more. The shopping is frenzied but friendly, the hassling is minimal and in good spirits – if you want a more refined experience there is a mall surrounded by street after street of high-end boutiques. There are also some key restaurants and hotels to visit; Double Six, with its sunset roof top bar makes a wonderful evening hang out. If you want to try local fare but are feeling cautious, then go mad on the tropical fruit – passion fruit is not as we know it, coming in at much sweeter, watermelon can be found with bright yellow fresh, rambutan (lychees) are sweet and flavoursome. We loved the mangosteen fruit, a segmented milky white flesh, the snake fruit (salak) was crunchy and almost chestnutty. If you really want to try something unusual then look no further than the durian – I literally couldn’t explain the taste other than as custardy caramalised onion. Not one I’ll be adding to my fruit salad.

We rented a villa (Andari Villas) that was close to the famous Double Six area; located between Legian and Seminyak, while central its position on a side street meant we experienced the best of both worlds (as well as have our cleaning, catering and washing seen to by a resident maid, and security at the end of the street). Outside the hub-bub – which we could dip into and then out again at will; inside was a sanctuary spread over three bedrooms, two lounges, five bathrooms, kitchen and private pool.

The utter tranquility meant we could stay and chill to our hearts’ content. If massage is your thing, then Bali will be your heaven – of all the things that are ‘affordable’ massage knocks the rest out of the park. We were able to have a masseuse come to the villa for an amazing poolside massage, an hourlong treat costing the same as a couple of coffees in NZ. Of course, tipping, while not expected, is something you want to do – when we tend to be cashless it’s worth trying to remember to always have something to hand.

No matter if your idea of the perfect holiday is active resting or totally zoning out, Bali really does bring it all to the table. Plan ahead and work out what you want from the trip, pack the hand sanitiser and it really is a glorious island paradise.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Other highly recommended spots include Canguu and Sanur.

• Surfing opportunities are next level – Kedungu, Padang Padang, Medewi.

• Restaurants to try – Sardine (Kerobokan), Chandi (Seminyak)

• We travelled at the start of the dry season, some rain, but sightseeing was amazing regardless.

• Add activities such as cook schools, meditation, or yoga retreats – go by recommendations.

• Pack medication. We took charcoal tablets, but arm yourselves with painkillers for stomach ache, and something for nausea.

• Scooters are a fun, efficient way to travel – check out reviews for rentals.

• Waterbom Bali is family fun.

• We stayed in a variety of accommodations with prices starting from $200 per night for five inclusive of breakfast for two rooms in the hotel and three rooms in the villa.

• While we only managed to get away for a week, I would recommend at least 10 days.

• Go by accommodation recommendations if possible as quality varies hugely.

Organise visas in advance as they can be tricky. If it feels daunting, ask an expert

– travel agent or small operator. Locally Sandy Crooks (Clarke Rd Kitchen),

arranges and leads exclusive group tours to Bali.

Style status

Texture is everything this winter.

words NICKY ADAMS

SILK LAUNDRY 90S SLIP DRESS, $409, BELLOVIDA.NZ

Be per-sueded

An explosion of suede this season and well into next year makes this a top pick for a staple. Boots, bags, jackets, dresses — suede gets top marks for versatility and its ability to aesthetically elevate an outfit. Unfortunately, it gets a low score for practicality. Beautiful on a dry day, no amount of protection spray will make suede a good all-weather choice, unless you’re prepared not to be too precious about wear and tear. There’s always an abundance of vintage and second hand suede, and it can make good buying — but pick carefully as suede is heavily tied to ’70s trends.

LANCE LONG LACE SKIRT $349, REPERTOIRE.CO.NZ

I’ve recently started a love affair with mint as a colour choice; it works well paired with the on-trend wintery shades of brown and burgundy. It often only takes one really stand out piece in a shade to open your eyes to a tone you may not have previously considered. Mix in other sorbet shades to match with brown and burgundy — they bring a freshness to an outfit and are a change from the standard crisp white that is often styled with these tones.

KSUPER CARGO TERRA PANTS, $309.95, KSUBI.CO.NZ

Low effort outfits

Florals are another way to add joy to your outfit. Rather than relegate this pattern solely to spring/summer, look at tonal shades and pair with chunkier boots. This will bring balance if you’ve layered with a chunky coat, as well as make you feel more seasonally dressed. Boxy blazers, wide leg trousers and of course lots of knits will be key items to keep you ticking on through the chilly days. If you want to add another jean trend to your barrel-leg style, then a cuffed hem (harking back to the early 2000s) has reemerged, and looks fabulous with flats, a sweater and a blazer. Pin stripes are here for winter and are always great when tailored; worn as separates it will be sleek office wear without being too corporate. A short sleeve fitted jumper feels way more snuggly than a shirt, and is also really versatile with wide leg pants, skirts or over silky slip dresses. A winter fail safe is a knitted midi dress, which manages to look good and feel comfortable at the same time.

KING LOUIE BOMBER JACKET $449, URBANVOGUE.CO.NZ

Blend the trend

Cold weather dressing can be a sartorial dilemma. As the chill and the drizzle set in, the urge to wrap up becomes hard to beat. Nevertheless, there are ways to feel cossetted and still be stylish. This is most likely why texture is such a huge part of a winter aesthetic; utilising material as a tactic becomes a way to pull the focus, allowing us to reign in cosy cashmere, soft mohair and merino for knits, along with boucle for tailoring and suede, leather, shearling and faux fur for outer wear.

UNREAL FUR PARIS COAT, $603 UNREALFUR.COM.AU

If you’re bundled in a big, oversized coat, then try and add structure with a sleek silhouette underneath. As a fabric choice it’s no surprise velvet is right at the top of the pile of must-haves. Thick and lustrous, its combination of sheen, inability to crease and look of luxe adds another visual layer, making it simply irresistible. While ice-blue, cornflower, periwinkle and cobalt are colours to tap into, another tone that we can definitely get ahead of here in New Zealand is cyan blue, after it was seen popping up all over this year’s Cannes Film Festival.

Shape shifting

Winter whites and pales shades are statement making; although when it comes to denim, a dark indigo colourway feels more seasonally intuitive. At this time of year trousers inevitably become a more important part of your wardrobe and crafted from a beautiful fabric – think satin or silk – can easily become the focal point of the whole outfit.

KING LOUIE BOMBER JACKET $449, URBANVOGUE.CO.NZ

Don’t be deterred from short dresses or skirt options though, with tights finally welcomed back into the fashion fold, hemlines above the knee have become way more appealing as a more do-able option. Opaque coloured tights are effective, and of course needn’t be restricted to black; when it comes to styling Northern hemisphere fashionistas have been leading the way wearing peep or open toes with their tights rather than the more traditional close toe.

Sole searching

Ditch the pain and discover shoes that love your feet as much as you love them.

With the adage ‘beauty is pain’ firmly entrenched, historically women have squished and squeezed, ignored their bunions, laughed in the face of corns and teetered impractically along with whichever footwear trend was the latest to hit the high-street. This attitude has been turned on its head. Now we prioritise comfort as much as style when it comes to what we put on our feet. Of course, wearing sneakers with everything from suiting to formalwear is now de rigeur. Alongside the love of casual pumps, which has moved from just white to metallics and bright colours, a place has been found across all age groups and lifestyles for comfort in the form of Uggs, Birkenstock styles and Crocs. I once sat in the Victoria Beckham camp of “I would rather die” defiance at owning Crocs. However, having succumbed to the lure of this uber comfortable and practical option, I am a firm convert. After all, I reason that while Victoria can hold onto her principles, she more than likely doesn’t have to rush out the door on a school run or stand in damp grass hanging the washing on the line.

The need to competently go about our daily business in a surefooted manner means there will always be a requirement for the practical. However, there’s been a definite shift of the dial when it comes to event wear, and I for one am excited to see the interest in glam footwear surging once more. Along with the more foot friendly trends (think loafers, Mary Janes, platforms, wedges) there is an increased awareness around the combination of comfort and design for glamorous, elegant footwear. Sole Bliss is a UK brand designed around bunions. The brainchild of shoe designer Lisa Kay, who, after suffering issues with her own feet, began creating a range specifically for others with wide feet and bunions. Combining technology, input from podiatrists, hand crafting and years of design experience, her shoes now regularly adorn the feet of everyone from royalty to Hollywood A-listers; it seems even the likes of Helen Mirren and Julia Roberts appreciate their bunions catered for.

There is also a rising demand for occasion specific comfort — a need recognised by American designer Sara Blakely (founder of Spanx), who has brought Sneex to the market. Introduced to me by a friend who loves additional height to command the boardroom without sacrificing her mobility, I was wowed when I slipped them on my feet. It’s rare to be elevated to this height of heel and still feel as though you could march confidently through the streets.

The ultimate hybrid of sneaker with a heel, they are pitched at everyone from businesswomen to brides. They do, however, come with a hefty price tag. New Zealand shoe designers are by no means resting on their laurels. We have access to a multitude of amazing homegrown brands. To name a few: Katherine Wilson, Nicole Rebstock, and locally Chaos & Harmony. I’m a huge fan of all of these, and can vouch for the elevated comfort levels of a well-made shoe.

I spoke to creative director of Chaos & Harmony, Becs Anderson, who told me, “Essentially, we come from a form and function basis, meeting needs from multiple angles. From a shoe perspective — given it’s a thing that holds our whole body — we not only want the style that it offers but we need it to have comfort so that we can wear them all day.”

Chaos & Harmony positions itself around the fact that a smart shoe adds to the style that you’re trying to create. However, as Becs points out, foot health is key. “You don’t need to be thinking about your shoes — you want the footbed to be comfortable; equally, you don’t want there to be any friction points. Afterall, you don’t want your legs aching at the end of the day. It’s easy to make shoes look good, but can you make them comfortable? That’s more where the science comes in.”

This science is everything from folding rather than stitching, the pitch of the heel, the angle the ball of the foot is on, to the balance of a block heel. With the industry making strides like this, it’s no wonder we’re all looking to bench the trainers and slip back into a stunning pair of heels.

Fashion forecast

Energise your wardrobe for spring.

Patou

Spotted!

Polka dot is the print of the season. Big spots, small spots — from dresses to jackets, even suiting, this pattern is well and truly cemented for the season. Reminiscent of the excess of the ’80s, it has been reimagined with less pizzazz and more elegance. Surprisingly versatile, depending on how it’s styled, one minute it feels traditional, the next it screams street style.

Burberry

Whatever the weather

If you’ve longed for the day when a raincoat is repositioned as a fashion piece, then that day is here! Joining a swathe of other on trend jackets (utility, barn, cropped trench) the raincoat is finally having its moment. Used as a layering piece, these jackets look as good over a ballgown as they do on the rugby sidelines.

Ralph Lauren

Check it out

Plaid for spring feels fresh when pieces are crafted from lighter fabrics. It’s also coming across in more elegant forms, with other features incorporated into designs; case in point the black bows at the shoulder of The Row’s Maxi Dress. Checked shirts will be a much-seen addition to outfit choices, with the ability to double as a light jacket.

Chloe

Baggy trousers

The segue seems natural when you think about it - wide leg to barrel to a combination of both in the form of a pantaloon (voluminous trousers gathered in with elastic or ribbon) and this easy-breezy style has more than a touch of boho about it. When paired on the runway with lacy tops there was a tendency to look a wee bit like Victorian underwear, but as with any trend it can be pared down and translate to your own wardrobe beautifully.

Larger than life

Nicky Adams explores the timeless appeal of Disneyland and discovers its magic isn’t only reserved for the kids.

It’s hard to put your finger on just what makes theme parks so magical, when most of us are way past our Disney delight days.

‘We’re doing it for the kids,’ mutter the adults as they race behind the super-sized Mickey Mouse, not a child in sight. The fact is it doesn’t matter what age you are, there is something wonderful about being transported into another world, where everything is bright, fun, and essentially make believe. To quote Walt Disney, ‘You’re never too old to be young.’

I think the sheer fantasy is what makes me love it so much – the larger-than-life characters, the ‘cast members’ (staff) dressed up as a 1950s Barbershop Quartet belting out random a capella on Main Street, the sight of a Mark Twain-style steamboat making its way down the Mississippi. The wild imagination of it all is nothing short of joyous.

Ironically, I hate roller coasters, but there’s a million and one other rides to try, from flying through Neverland on the low-level Peter Pan’s Flight to the exhilaration of gunning down enemy craft as you take the helm on the Star Wars’ Millennium Falcon Smugglers Run.

Disneyland Anaheim opened in 1955 and is made up of Disneyland and the latterly added California Adventure (which opened in 2001); between the two parks they cover every single age and stage.

Both parks are divided into ‘lands’ and tactically feature rides and references to the original Disney days but have kept up to date with all the latest stories and characters, so no genre is left untouched. There’s the old-worldly fairground feel of the ferris wheel in California Adventure (where you can choose between a carriage that stays static or one that swings), or there’s the high-tech Rise of the Resistance, the latest simulation Star Wars ride in Disneyland. In between you have the fan favourites of the indoor rollercoaster Space Mountain, river rapid ride Grizzly River Run and of course the dark speed of the Radiator Springs Racers.

The fantasy world that you’re about to step into starts before you enter the parks themselves. Downtown Disney District serves as the soft launch; connecting the two parks and the three hotels, it’s free to get into (although you do need to go through security) and is a lively and beautifully landscaped, easy-to-navigate outdoor shopping and dining area that hums with entertainment. It’s also home to a dangerously delicious Wetzel Pretzel café – try at your peril. This is the area from where you enter one park or the other – the Park Hopper ticket will gain entrance to both on the same day. Exploring both parks will likely take you a good couple of days, although with opening hours going between 8am and 10pm it’s possible – if exhausting – to simply keep going, to get the most out of your ticket entrance. However, if you do, brace yourself to cover an awful lot of ground during your day.

Visiting in October, the weather was cool in the morning and evening, but by 10am had warmed up to high 20s, which may sound sweltering, but low UV saved burning. Saying that, it wasn’t a heat you wanted to stand around in for too long, so a queue- jumping Fast Pass was invested in at an extra cost.

While this certainly saves plenty of time in the queues (you can book an advance time slot) it’s by no means a perfect system. We found it incredibly frustrating that you could only hold one slot, and when the time shown came up it often gave you a later time slot than shown on the Disney app. The waiting, I’m afraid, is unavoidable. On the plus side, the queues are incredibly civilised and, other than slowing you down, could just be accepted as part of the experience. The cost is another aspect to be considered. A weak NZ to US exchange rate, along with post-Covid price rises, doesn’t go unnoticed when on top of the ticket price comes a day of theme park treats. Saying that, while there are plenty of in-park refreshment stops, packing your own water bottles and snacks is worthwhile.

As I mentioned – as someone that is terrified of rollercoasters, you might think that it would be hard to find things to do. Oh contraire! Weirdly, although I’m rollercoaster averse, I found I was born for the simulated rides, which (I was quietly smug about) other far gutsier family members struggled with.

My pick would without question be Soarin’ Around the World. If I could have done it all day long, I would have. Strapped into a simulator you whizz above the African plains, Eiffel Tower – even tropical islands – all the time being infused with the scent to match.

Sounds weird I know, but it was incredible. Another goody was the Pirates of the Caribbean – I lost count of how many times we all did this. A couple of wee water drops was as scary as it got, but an underground journey through the land of the pirates was more fun that you can imagine with something different to see every time. The detail was so mesmerising it came as no surprise to learn that it was the ride that inspired the movie. The adrenalin junkies did Big Thunder Mountain Railroad on repeat, loving the thrill of the ride, but everyone agreed you needed nerves of steel for the Guardians of the Galaxy.

Formally called Hollywood Tower of Terror, involving stomach-churning drops. Nothing would possess me to do this.

All the while you wander – or race depending on your timeframe – through the parks, there will be a million other things going on around you. Bands marching followed by carriages carrying Cruella de Vil and her henchmen, Disney Princesses amid eager young children waiting for a hug, Storm Troopers arresting bystanders. And then there’s the parades – crowds stand aside while highly decorated dancers dance and singers sing. The excitement stretches well into the night, with light shows and weekend firework extravaganzas. Just when you think you’re all out of energy, you might find that last bit in the tank for another round of rides.

Without doubt the easiest way to maximise your time is to stay at one of the three Disneyland Resort hotels – the newly vamped up Pixar Place, Grand Californian, or original Disneyland Resort. A stay here will ensure you get early access to the parks before any other guests arrive and gives you the ability to bob back and forth to regroup throughout the day. It also extends the magic as the hotels are home to more characters, round reception corners and you might bump into Chip and Dale – peep above your poolside cocktail and you may spy Goofy on his way to wow the diners at the Goofy’s kitchen restaurant. In the worlds of Walt Disney: “Here you leave today and enter the world of yesterday, tomorrow and fantasy.”

Style status

Feel inspired to freshen up your personal runway.

words NICKY ADAMS

TAPERED DRILL PANT, $199, COUNTRYROAD.CO.NZ

Basic instinct

An autumnal wardrobe is an in-between collection, that you really want to last from now until next spring. With the general slowdown of trend-led pieces in an attempt to beat the ‘churn over’ of fast fashion, more consciously focused designers and brands have made tweaks rather than huge style changes.

So, for 2025 there are many looks that will be familiar, but for autumn appear with slight seasonal updates that will segue you and them into the following months.

Leopard, draping and boho continue to be strong looks, and with these trends it’s not about reinventing the wheel, more around finding a style within the genre that you love and works for you.

Bolder statement pieces crafted in gold and leopard have moved from occasional wear to being considered every day, to the point that both are now heralded as the new neutrals. While worn head to toe may be pushing this a little, certainly when worked into an outfit they both work brilliantly as cornerstone print and colourways. Draped blouses continue to be a hard-working staple, and minimalists love the clean lines of a funnel neck. There’s no avoiding the barrel leg pant trend that’s everywhere, which I was convinced would be a fad I refused to – literally – buy into. Typically, I crumbled, and I can report that this style (fitted at the waist, billowing leg and tapered hem) is so incredibly flattering I was an immediate convert.

It’s a really wearable day to night, dress up/down style and looks great with kitten heels, loafers or casual shoes, a tucked in shirt or a shorter tee to show off the waistline.

Palette pleasers

The colour that’s coming in strong for autumn/winter is without doubt burgundy. As luck would have it, it pairs perfectly with the previously mentioned leopard and gold tones, but it also looks pretty fabulous with more unusual choices such as pale blue, shades of green or soft pink.

These colour matches make for a more contemporary feel and keep the dreariness of the colder months at bay. Like navy, burgundy is kinder on the skin tone (black can be aggressively life sucking as you age). If there was ever a ‘gotta have it – make it stop’ moment, surely it just has to be in relation to the bubble skirt. I never thought I would see it again, let alone wear it, yet low and behold it has bounced back with aplomb and turns out it’s not a one-minute fashion wonder. Worn long or short, this is a style that has actually been on the fashion wheel since the 1950s so isn’t as faddish as it first feels. A casual version can be worn with a western boot or an oversized boxy tee/jumper by day, or ramp up the look with a kitten heel and sleek top. It also makes for a beautiful silhouette as a dress; there are lots of high street versions based around ribbed tight tops with a smooth cotton bubble bottom.

A cool look for this season is the cropped trench – a twist on this classic trans-seasonal piece. If you’d dragged your old faithful out of the wardrobe and decided it was time for an update, then this might be a direction you want to take. Another updated classic is the slimline sneaker – this year a fold-over tongue on a heritage style like the Adidas Samba signals taking it up a notch.