CARVE DIEM
A trip is what you make it, and though a Ruapehu ski adventure is guaranteed to be a good time, you can always up the ante. UNO editor Hayley Barnett finds the best spots to play, stay and eat during a family road trip.
A trip is what you make it, and though a Ruapehu ski adventure is guaranteed to be a good time, you can always up the ante. UNO editor Hayley Barnett finds the best spots to play, stay and eat during a family road trip.
PLAY WHAKAPAPA SKI FIELD
There’s something about a trip to the mountain in winter that you just can’t beat. Yes, in New Zealand the weather is always a bit of a gamble, but even on the worst days you come away exhilarated, having made the most of a full day on the slopes. On this particular morning, as we headed up the mountain giddy with excitement and anticipation, the snow gods had delivered. We’d been granted a bluebird day, a park near the top and surprisingly short queues. On the advice of friends travelling with us, we left Turangi around 7.45am, making it an easy half-hour drive with barely any traffic.
We’d opted to hire our skis up the mountain, because there’s nothing worse than clomping up the road in giant plastic boots while accidentally taking people out with your skis and poles every time you turn around.
After collecting our passes, we took the lift down to Happy Valley to be fitted for our gear. The fuss-free service was much quicker than expected and we hurried out onto the learner field to get Oscar, our eight-year-old, to his ski lesson.
Of course, a small glitch in the system (also known as me forgetting to confirm the booking) meant Oscar’s name didn’t appear on the list. So I spent the next two hours impressing my husband by skiing down the valley in a backwards wedge as Oscar screamed. While I’d highly recommend confirming your child’s ski lesson before you arrive, it was actually pretty satisfying watching him finally fly down the slope with a huge grin on his face, just as I was about to throw in the towel.
Before lunchtime, my daughter Poppy and I parted with the boys, who were off on their own adventure to discover the sledding zone in Happy Valley, where you can hire toboggans and carve up the dug out tracks for up to an hour. Instead we rode the famous Sky Waka Gondola up the mountain to muck around in the Rock Garden. It wasn’t long before we ran into more friends and ended up on the deck of the Knoll Ridge Chalet, which overlooks most of the ski field and the stunning three peaks of Tongariro.
As we sat there, slightly in awe of the scenery, a skier suddenly appeared over one of the peaks, impressing everyone as he carved down the face of the mountain before stopping right on the edge of a cliff. A collective gasp rippled through the lunchtime crowd as he jumped, then tumbled like a ragdoll down the slope, finally landing motionless in the snow.
Watching the dramatic rescue quickly became one of the highlights of the kids’ day, as they retold the story to friends for weeks afterwards. Thankfully, he was okay in the end, even popping up weeks later on a skiing Facebook page to share the update.
OHAKUNE
The next day, the weather gods weren’t so kind. We’d planned to head to Turoa Ski Field, just under an hour’s drive from Whakapapa, but the wind had picked up considerably, forcing the mountain to close. Though the kids were disappointed they couldn’t ski, we’d heard that Ohakune, the small ski town at the base of Turoa, was the perfect place to spend a day with kids.
Oscar was also strangely fixated on Ohakune’s giant carrot after a recent school project on the town, so we ventured forth. The Ohakune Carrotland Adventure Park is a wonder, and not just because of its 7.5-metre-tall frontman, voted Landmark of the Year in a nationwide poll in 2023. The carrot has a full cast of veggie companions, including a swede, Brussels sprout, potato and parsnip, which only add to the park’s surreal charm. The kids clambered through playgrounds, raced along the flying fox, and tested their stamina on the endurance course.
Photo ops are everywhere, and it’s impossible not to lean into the silliness. The town’s carrot obsession actually stretches back a century, when Chinese settlers first cleared the land and began growing the crop that would make Ohakune famous.
Today, the region still produces around two-thirds of the North Island’s carrots, making the giant vegetable feel surprisingly well deserved.
Since the carrot park hadn’t quite exhausted the kids’ energy, we headed to another quirky stop just 10 minutes away in Raetihi. Dinosaur House is a chaotic prehistoric wonderland, packed with life-sized dinosaur models, fossils and animatronic creatures that roar into life when you least expect it. There are even movie props, including memorabilia from Jurassic Park, much to Oscar’s delight.
STAY
THE QUARTERS
Tucked away in Tūrangi, The Quarters felt like the perfect hideaway. Just a scenic half-hour drive from Whakapapa, it made getting on the slopes early a breeze without having to stay on the mountain itself. Our two-bedroom family apartment had plenty of space for everyone to unwind after a full day carving up the snow, while the kids claimed their corners and quickly made themselves at home. For couples or solo travellers chasing fresh powder, the studios offered a cosy, pared-back alternative that still felt inviting. Friends opted for one of the studios and simply pumped up an airbed for their 10-year-old. Being fully self-contained meant slow, lazy breakfasts before hitting the road, but we also loved that a short stroll brought us straight to Tūrangi’s dining options, making it easy to hang up ski jackets and enjoy a fuss-free dinner after a big day outdoors.
LAKE TAUPŌ HOLIDAY RESORT
The challenge in travelling with kids is finding somewhere to stay that will keep them off the iPads. Lake Taupō Holiday Resort ticks all the boxes, being less a holiday park and more a family playground. The thermally heated lagoon pool was the obvious star, with its diving grotto, swim-up bar, giant poolside movie screen, and a pair of twisting hydroslides that had the kids racing each other for hours. The water was warm enough to keep them splashing well after we’d unpacked the car, and the heated villas with electric blankets kept us warm after hopping out. Being just over an hour from Whakapapa made it the perfect base for a mountain adventure, while Taupō’s restaurants, shops, and indoor activities meant we were never short of options on slower days.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN CHALETS
These chalets in Ohakune felt like a true home away from home. With the mountain closed, we were perfectly content tucked up inside our cosy retreat. After a full day of adventure, we sank into one of the three on‐site spa pools, letting tired legs soak while the kids laughed and played nearby. Just a five-minute stroll took us to Ohakune’s famous playground, making it effortless to keep the little ones entertained. With Tūroa Ski Field just around the corner and plenty of cafés, bars, and eateries on the doorstep, it proved to be a fantastic base for both exploring the slopes and soaking up the charm of Ohakune.
EAT
JOHNNY NATION’S CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR SHOP
After an afternoon at the park, we treated the kids to something sweet at Johnny Nation’s Chocolate Éclair Shop in Ohakune, and, as expected, it was a hit. Famous for its world-renowned Ohakune chocolate eclairs, the little shop feels like a treasure trove of treats, offering up decadent cakes and pies sandwiches, and even fresh vegetables for the grown-ups. The eclairs, filled with fresh cream, are a daily ritual for locals and visitors, and it’s easy to see why. The kids were also kept entertained by the myriad of post-it notes left by diners and pressed all over the walls. By the time we’d finished, the sugar rush had everyone smiling, and it was clear that Ohakune’s sweet reputation is very well deserved.
FB: JOHNNYNATIONSCHOCOLATEECLAIRSHOP
DIXIE BROWNS
On more helpful advice from friends, we pulled up to Dixie Browns in the heart of Taupō and instantly understood its reputation as a lakefront favourite for families. The place buzzes with energy and the food options are endless, from juicy, flame-grilled burgers and golden fish and chips to melt-in-your-mouth slow-cooked ribs and indulgent milkshakes. The portions are generous and the kids happily dived in while we lingered over our drinks, watching the sun go down behind the lake.
MATTERHORN
When in Ohakune, we made sure to stop for a meal at Matterhorn, and it didn’t disappoint. This cosy alpine-style restaurant, tucked inside the Powderhorn Chalet just above the lively Powderkeg Bar, has a menu to suit everyone, from hearty classics to more elevated dishes. The highlight was watching the mulled wine being gently warmed over the open fire right in front of us. It would be a great way to unwind after a day on (or off) the mountain. It’s wonderfully family‐friendly, with space for the kids to wander, and has plenty of options to keep little diners happy.
GOLDEN CRUST PIZZA
After a day on the slopes, we found ourselves pulling up to Golden Crust Pizza in Tūrangi for dinner. Tucked just off the main road, this family‐friendly pizzeria has earned a reputation locally for its generous, flavour‐packed pizzas and welcoming vibe. The menu is bigger than you might expect. There’s BBQ chicken, peri‐peri and meat‐lover’s pies loaded with toppings, plus burgers, thick shakes and sides for anyone who’s still peckish after a day outdoors. We ordered a few different pizzas and the kids loved picking slices straight off the board. Plenty of locals and visitors were stopping by while we were there, which felt like a good sign, and between rounds of pizza and thick shakes, everyone agreed it was a pit stop worth making before heading back to base.
Coastal charm
Sun, sand, strolls along the beach… Ōhope is a little slice of paradise with so many options for families, couples, and solo travellers to enjoy this summer.
Sun, sand, strolls along the beach… Ōhope is a little slice of paradise with so many options for families, couples, and solo travellers to enjoy this summer.
The beautiful Ōhope, just 6km from Whakatāne, is one of the Bay of Plenty’s hidden gems. With 11km of pristine golden sand, along with picturesque natural beauty, native birds and views of Whakaari/White Island and Moutohorā/Whale Island, it’s been voted
New Zealand’s most-loved beach for a reason.
Ōhope’s new hotspot
Situated at Port Ōhope Wharf, Wharfside is the place to be this season. Bring your family and friends and set off on a harbour cruise, hire SUP, kayaks, and e-scooters for some family fun, or sit and relax with a craft beer and bite to eat while the kids practice their manus off the wharf. This popular spot is open from December 27 through February 5, and select weekends throughout autumn. Visit the pop-up isite Visitor Information Centre to get all the inspo – and booking assistance – you need to
have an epic Eastern Bay summer.
Cruise & shuck
Discover Ōhiwa’s rich history, oyster farming, cultural significance and stunning harbour on an immersive Ōhiwa Tour. Experience the ocean’s bounty through an engaging oyster experience where you’ll learn the art of shucking oysters, followed by a tasting of delicious kaimoana. Tio Ōhiwa is more than just an oyster farm and takeaway shop; it's a community hub and indigenous-owned business that believes in bringing people together through good food and good company.
Get movin’
The calm waters, easy beach access and great scenery make VMAC Rides’ base on Wharfside, Ōhiwa Harbour the perfect place to have a go at stand-up paddleboarding. Whether you are a first-timer or a seasoned professional, VMAC Rides has the boards for you to get out there and enjoy yourself! Or if you’d rather stay on land, you can explore this little slice of paradise on an eScooter or eBike. Suitable for both adults and children, it’s a great way to have family fun together.
vmacrides.co.nz
Mata Brewery
Mata Brewery Taproom & Eatery is a much-loved family-friendly gathering place for Whakatāne locals and visitors alike. With a selection of 12 taps and several packaged options, there’s a wide variety of beer and cider to satisfy every taste. Try a tasting tray or grab a glass – they have a good selection of wine, low-alcohol, and non-alcoholic drinks, too. At Wharfside, they'll have a pop-up brewery with all their favourite beers and ciders, bar snacks and live music. It's a great spot to sit and relax while the kids swim and jump off the wharf.
Must-dos nearby
Surf and turf
Gaze at the stellar harbour views, take in a stellar sunset, and enjoy the beachy vibe from the spacious deck of Fisherman’s Wharf Café. Surf and turf is their speciality, with excellent steaks and sumptuous seafood – try the fish tacos – and there’s a decent beer and wine selection to ease you into another relaxed Ōhope evening. If you’re wanting tasty takeaways, fish and chips are available from the handy window too.
facebook.com/fishermanswharfcafe
Take to the water
With experienced guides who know the local history and environment, KG Kayaks offers tours and freedom hires in a variety of locations around the Whakatāne and Ōhope Beach area. The relaxing, family-friendly Ōhiwa Harbour tours, and trip out to Moutohorā/Whale Island via sailing catamaran are particularly memorable, with regular wildlife encounters and a hot water beach experience making it a day to remember. Novices are welcome, and safety is always first priority – they also offer options for school and corporate days out.
On the trail
Perfect for cyclists and walkers alike, the Ōhope Harbourside Trail is a gentle amble for all ages and abilities. Winding along the shoreline of one of our most unspoiled and culturally significant estuaries, Ōhiwa Harbour, you’ll come across a multitude of birdlife, shellfish and fish species. Traversing esplanade and recreational reserves, the walk has been designed to ensure the least disruption to the natural environment while allowing for stunning views.
Let it snow
Flying south for the winter, UNO editor Hayley Barnett attempts to turn her family into thrill-seeking adventure enthusiasts, with mixed results
Flying south for the winter, UNO editor Hayley Barnett attempts to turn her family into thrill-seeking adventure enthusiasts, with mixed results.
Words Hayley Barnett
As far as winter getaways go, you don’t get much better than Queenstown. It’s a hub for skiers, thrill seekers, partiers and foodies, and, although partying was off the agenda this time, it’s the perfect destination for a family’s first ski holiday.
Getting my kids on skis has long been a dream of mine, but with COVID-19 restrictions and the recent debacle that kept our local ski fields closed, my grand plans have never come to fruition. Until now.
This year was the year, I decided. It’d be the year the kids would finally fall in love with snow sports and we’d become one of those families who hit the slopes every winter, toasting marshmallows in front of the fire at the end of a long, enjoyable day skilfully flying down the mountain at top speed. Après ski, here we come.
If you have kids, you can probably guess it didn’t all go completely to plan. Five-year-olds don’t always comply in an environment where everyone is wearing ski masks and wielding large planks around. But I can officially say I have skiers now, and I can also recommend some amazing activities to do in the area on those days you don’t quite make it to the slopes.
OAKS QUEENSTOWN SHORES RESORT
Jumping on the Booking.com app, I came across Oaks Queenstown Shores Resort, serviced apartments on the outskirts of Queenstown with incredible views of Lake Wakatipu. A two-bedroom apartment was
the perfect size for the four of us. With an electric fireplace, fully self-contained kitchen and two bathrooms, it has everything you need when sharing with kids and a snorer. The apartment was huge and meant we didn’t have to venture out to get breakfast. We even stayed at home for dinner one night because it was too cosy to leave. There’s a gym for those who don’t get all their energy out on the mountain, and an inviting reception area with a fireplace, dining room and a bar, overlooking the lake.
CARDRONA SKI RESORT
With friends staying in Wanaka, we decided Cardrona would be a good place to meet up for a couple of days skiing. It was recommended I book lessons for the kids well in advance – and tickets, too, as they were limiting the number of people on the ski fields this year. The winding hour-long drive did make me question our decision not to just book at Coronet Peak or The Remarkables, the much closer options, but it ended up being the best decision of the trip. The smoother, flatter slopes proved to be much less intimidating to my three learner family members (who were expecting the steeper runs of neighbouring mountains), and Cardrona had the most centimetres of snow that week. Score!
Having booked our vacation a week before the school holidays, it meant there were hardly any chairlift lines to wait in. I managed to get a heap of runs in that first day, despite the visibility being somewhat dismal.
Luckily, for our second day at Cardrona, the weather had improved. The sun was peaking out and we’d had a large dump of snow overnight, replacing slush with powder. Having learned from the previous day, I dropped the kids off at their lessons, pockets stuffed with lollies (top tip to convince small – and big – kids to do anything) and took off up the mountain again.
By the end of day two, Poppy was flying down from the top, as I’d hoped, and Oscar had learned to avoid crashing into anyone who ventured into his eyeline. Jumping on the bus back down to our rental car, we were soon on our way to the Cardrona Hotel for some well-deserved pub grub and drinks.
TRANSPORT
If you want to get the most out of your Queenstown family holiday, a reliable vehicle is a non-negotiable. Enabling travellers to seamlessly plan their travel, Booking.com offers much more than just accommodation and is a one-stop solution offering a wide range of travel services such as car hire without ever having to leave the platform or app. We easily secured a mid-sized Toyota Corolla via the app. I added booster seats for the kids and chains for the wheels. Pick up was easy. We caught a ride with the Snap Rentals van from the airport and 15 minutes later we were in our car and heading off to our accommodation.
CARDRONA HOTEL RESTAURANT & BAR
A five-minute drive from the turn-off up to Cardrona Ski Resort is one of New Zealand’s oldest hotels and one of only two remaining buildings from the Cardrona Valley gold rush era. These days, it’s most well known for its après ski pub food and drinks and its warm and cosy atmosphere. It’s the perfect place to take the kids, with plenty of room to run around outside, featuring a playground and a giant outdoor fireplace. There are bags of marshmallows, which we purchased a few of, after discovering Oscar had devoured the first bag before we even made it over to the fireplace. We can highly recommend the loaded wedges and the seafood chowder, both washed down with some local gin from the Cardrona Distillery across the road.
PUZZLING WORLD, WANAKA
One of the highlights for all of us was Puzzling World. Yes, we had to travel for an hour from Queenstown, but boy, was it worth it. I had booked tickets through Booking.com when securing our accommodation
months ago, which forced us out of our cosy, warm beds on a non-ski day. By the time we got there we knew we’d made the right decision.
The family-run attraction started with a wooden maze in 1973 and evolved into a science museum that has become famous across the country – and internationally. Home to the world’s first multi-level “mega maze”, Puzzling World offers a challenging course that takes around an hour to complete (well, it did for us, anyway). Participants must reach all four towers located in four corners of the maze. The kids were the perfect age for it and no one noticed they’d been running around for an hour.
The Illusion Rooms inside the museum provided hours of entertainment. The slightly nauseating Tilting Room was a favourite for the kids, as was the Ames Room, where they suddenly outgrew us adults, becoming giants to our dwarfed bodies. Afterwards we headed out to the idyllic Lake Wanaka, just a five-minute drive from Puzzling World, to recover from all the excitement.
ARROWTOWN
On our way back home we decided to stop at the little historic village of Arrowtown for dinner. Proving to be just as pretty at nighttime as it is during the day, we took our time wandering up and down the town centre’s main drag, overwhelmed by the many dining choices on offer. We settled on Bendix Stables – a “watering hole and food emporium” built in 1873 as a stable to keep local politician Bendix Hallenstein’s horses. We had the top floor to ourselves where we devoured giant burgers and toasted marshmallows for s’mores.
KAWARAU RIVER JET BOAT TOUR
On our last day, we headed into Queenstown for one more adventure – the Kawarau River Jet Boat Tour. It popped up as a recommendation on Booking.com and was super easy to add as a last-minute addition
to our itinerary. There are two tours to choose from – a 20-minute joy ride around the lake or an hour-long tour up the river. We went for the hour, which was filled with thrills and not-too-many spills, thankfully. The kids loved the build-up of suspense when our driver raised his hand in warning each time he slammed on the brakes for a heart-stopping 360-degree spin. The scenery became more and more impressive the further down the river we spun. An exciting attraction for families with just
the right amount of thrill for the littlies.
To book your holiday to Queenstown, simply download the booking.com app and get planning!