Valley of light
UNO editor Hayley Barnett sees Rotorua in a beautiful new light at Mārama, Te Puia’s unforgettable geothermal nighttime experience.
UNO editor Hayley Barnett sees Rotorua in a beautiful new light at Mārama, Te Puia’s unforgettable geothermal nighttime experience.
PHOTOS Graeme Murray + Supplied
As dusk slowly settles over the geothermal valley at Te Puia in Rotorua, the day’s steam softening in the low bask of the sun, the magic of this place becomes more and more apparent. Beams of light begin to burst through the haze while we sit in Pātaka Kai, Te Puia’s renowned restaurant, enjoying our dinner on the heated deck.
Laser lighting has been meticulously set up across the 70-hectare site, to showcase more than 500 geothermal features, many of which are usually only accessible during the day.
On the launch night of the Mārama Geyser Light Trail, the hush across the valley is about to blossom into an immersive interplay of light and music that will transform Te Puia from darkness into a world of light. But, I soon discover, this is more than a light show; it’s an experience which showcases whakapapa and years of culture.
“Everything we do here is to uplift te ahurea Māori,” says special events manager Reanne Poutama. “With Mārama, Te Puia wanted to create something magical that would reflect our whenua and our stories in a way we’ve never done before.”
It’s clear from the outset that Te Puia has achieved this lofty goal. From the moment you step through the entrance to the 1.5km trail, you’re guided by sound and story. Setting the tone is musician Maisey Rika’s ambient waiata. Her otherworldly voice follows us as we head down the path.
On this night, we’re lucky enough to witness Maisey herself singing atop a point that stands high above the valley, overlooking the geysers and geothermal activity, the lights flickering through the steam behind her. The effect is ethereal and spine tingling.
“Maisey’s songs are the soundscape for the whole experience,” explains Reanne. “We’ve tried to partner our lighting in a way that amplifies each waiata.”
The 10 scenes have been designed to reflect the natural environment, which is infused with Māori storytelling. The trail winds through glowing Māori artworks, bubbling mud and towering trees. At every bend, the valley becomes a theatre. Laser lights ripple like currents above Puarenga Stream, while geothermal steam is lit from within, mimicking ancestral breath. One of the most memorable scenes evokes Tangaroa, atua of the sea, his story told through undulating blue lasers and swelling sound. Standing there, it almost seems as if the sea has risen into the valley.
Midway, the geothermal terrace offers a natural pause. Beneath the steam, natural hot rock seats offer warmth and a moment to breathe, with Pōhutu Geyser in the distance.
Self-paced and child friendly, the walk is around 60 minutes, taking into account all the stops and meanderings. The trail features hosts at certain points along the way, which allows visitors to move at their own pace.
Family accessibility was always part of the vision.
“The inspiration first was to provide something for Rotorua at nighttime for families,” she explains. “But we also hope that it’s accessible to everyone, including locals, internationals and families. It’s priced differently to our usual offerings because we really wanted whānau to be able to come and enjoy it.”
Along the trail are a number of artworks created by Māori artists, including glowing light boxes designed by students from Te Takapū o Rotowhio (the National Stone and Bone Carving School) at the on-site New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute.
“They’ve designed light boxes that tell our traditional stories,” says Reanne. “We’re weaving in our people’s talents and creative flair.”
That includes Mikaere, a Te Puia guide who created a mural of the story of Mārama using glow-in-the-dark and metallic paints that come alive under UV light.
“He’s amazing,” Reanne says proudly. “He would never usually get to showcase this kind of work, and now it’s part of the trail.”
Another highlight comes near the end of the walk, towards Pikirangi Village, where a forest tunnel glimmers and soft lasers rain down like an aurora, creating a canopy of light. As we gaze upward, everyone around us slows their steps. This is the magic of Mārama. Resting in the final notes of Maisey Rika’s voice, we look out over the valley under real stars. In this moment, it’s hard not to feel connected to te ao Māori. It’s a reminder of how deeply this experience is rooted in wairua.
While Te Puia’s daytime experiences have long celebrated Māori culture through kapa haka and guided storytelling, Mārama is something altogether different.
“This is something very new here,” Reanne says. “We’re usually quite traditional... This is us mixing those traditional elements with modernity. And even if you come during the day, you won’t see any of this. It’s exclusive to Mārama.”
Having grown up in Rotorua, I know this area well, but the whole nighttime experience felt like seeing the valley for the first time. Mārama feels meaningful. It’s a walk through the unseen stories of the land, guided by light and music.
Reanne reflects: “It’s a way to feel connected to our place, to our people and our stories.”
Mārama runs until April 2026, with entry from 7:30pm (Sept–Nov) and 8:30pm (Dec–April). See the website for the Matariki 2026 relaunch. Tickets are $49 for adults and $25 for children.