Paradise found

Aitutaki’s crystal-clear waters and relaxed vibe isn’t just for honeymooners. It’s what makes Rarotonga such a must-visit destination for Kiwis.

words Cameron Scott

There’s much more to the Cook Islands than Rarotonga, the colourful tropical island which, thanks to its international airport, use of New Zealand currency, and excellent tourist infrastructure, draws most of the Kiwi visitors to this far-flung tropical paradise.

This tiny South Pacific country is actually made up of 15 islands with a total land area of just 240 square kilometres, but scattered over a mind-boggling two million square kilometres of Pacific Ocean – from isolated Penrhyn in the north, to cooler-climate Mangaia in the Southern Group.

Of all the outlying islands, Aitutaki tops the list for visitors wanting to explore more of what the Cook Islands has to offer. This languid tropical paradise covers an area of just 18.05 square kilometres, but there’s certainly no lack of things to do or see – and plenty of opportunity to abandon your cares and relax on a pristine beach beside one of the world’s most spectacular lagoons.

Some first-time visitors to the Cook Islands organise their flights to catch a quick connection to Aitutaki shortly after their arrival in Rarotonga. But I’d recommend first spending a couple of days in Rarotonga to get used to the balmy Cook Islands weather and experience a little of the 32km-diameter island’s many cultural and scenic attractions. For a quick taste of Aitutaki, a day trip with Air Rarotonga is also highly recommended and will surely inspire a longer return visit.

Home to just 1800 people, Aitutaki is even more relaxed and laid-back than Rarotonga, retaining much of its authentic charm. The low-lying atoll itself has 15 islands (only one is inhabited), and its spectacularly vast and gorgeous lagoon is surrounded by a protective reef.

Aitutaki has an excellent selection of accommodation to suit all budgets and, in general, is warmer and sunnier than Rarotonga, with a better chance of blue skies. And while it is small, you’ll find no shortage of beautiful, private beaches fringed with coconut trees. There’s also plenty of things to do, most of them naturally involving water activities.

You’ll arrive at Aitutaki Airport, a former WWII airfield located at the triangular-shaped island’s northern point. The island’s largest village, Arutanga, is on the west side.

PLAY

Of all the things to do on Aitutaki, exploring the lagoon and its islets is the best. Go kayaking from a secluded white sand beach or join a boat tour and visit One Foot Island, where you can have your passport stamped at the world’s smallest post office. There’s some of the finest snorkelling you’ll find anywhere, in pristine waters teeming with colourful tropical fish. At night, enjoy an island night cultural show with a traditional umu (the island equivalent of a hangi) feast and Cook Island dancing. It’s also an essential part of the Aitutaki experience to meet some of the friendly, fun-loving locals and visit the oldest church in the Cook Islands, built of coral and limestone in Arutanga village in 1823. A good way to learn the history and culture of the island is to take a guided tour, or simply hire a scooter or bicycle and explore at your leisure.

Wet & Wild Water Tours

Wet & Wild Water Tours offer boat charters, a water taxi, kite and wake boarding, tube riding, water skiing, fishing and spearfishing, whale-watching, sightseeing and much more. Humpback whales pass near Aitutaki on their migratory path from July to October.

wetnwild-aitutaki.com

Bishop’s Cruises

Famous for its well-organised lagoon cruises, offering a truly memorable experience, Bishop's Cruises also specialise in organising spectacular weddings on One Foot Island. Whatever you want to do, they’ll take care of every detail, making your big day ultra-special.

bishopscruises.com

Aitutaki Blue Lagoon Flyfish

If fishing is your thing, Aitutaki Blue Lagoon Flyfish offers full and half-day guided fly fishing adventures on the Aitutaki lagoon, targeting bonefish and trevally. The bonefish are big, averaging 28 to 30 inches, while the trevally are guaranteed to put up a big fight.

aitutakibluelagoonflyfish.com

Aitutaki Day Tour

At the top end of the scale, Island Hopper Vacations offer an exclusive Aitutaki Day Tour which includes return VIP airport transfers on both Rarotonga and Aitutaki, return private jet flights, a private tour of Aitutaki and a private boat charter and lagoon cruise, with a special buffet lunch on an uninhabited motu (island).

islandhoppervacations.com

Pacific Resort Aitutaki has won awards for its luxurious accommodation and superior service.

STAY

Pacific Resort Aitutaki

The spectacular award-winning Pacific Resort Aitutaki offers 29 luxurious bungalows and villas with wide views across the lagoon. Indulge with a massage at Tiare Spa or grab a kayak or stand-up paddle board to explore the lagoon waters. The only member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World in Aitutaki, the resort welcomes guests aged 12-plus.

pacificresort.com

Tamanu Beach Resort

On the eastern coast of Aitutaki, Tamanu Beach Resort has relaxed Polynesian-style bungalows and is right on the beach in Amuri village. The resort has two wings, one for adults only and the other for families. On Wednesdays and Saturdays from 6.30pm, the resort hosts a special feast featuring delicious local food as well as the

island's traditional singing and dancing.

tamanubeach.com

Rino’s Aitutaki Beach Apartments

At the affordable end of the scale and offering

all the essentials for a relaxing holiday, Rino's Aitutaki Beach Apartments has a selection of cozy self-catered beach apartments a few steps from the beach.

rinosaitutaki.com

Aitutaki Beach Villas

With just four private, self-contained beach bungalows, this tranquil spot is ideal for everything from honeymoons to family getaways. Set beside a safe and beautiful beach, it’s also an easy walk from the island’s larger hotels, restaurants and shops.

Aitutakibeachvillas.com

The freshest of seafood features on the menus of most Aitutaki restaurants and cafés.

EAT

Tamanu Beachfront Restaurant

Tamanu Beachfront Restaurant offers a true Pacific Island dining experience with delicious foods and friendly, island-style hospitality. Nestled on the beach beside Aitutaki's sensational lagoon, this a la carte restaurant has a good selection of Pacific Island cuisine along with a Western favourites and opens seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

tamanubeach.com/restaurant-bar

Avatea Café

Boldy staking claim to “the best food in Aitutaki,” the family owned Avatea Café is located in Tautu and is known for its laid-back outdoors atmosphere and friendly service. The well-presented food ranges from crepes and coffee for breakfast, to sashimi pizza and the café’s famous fish curry and homemade naan bread for dinner. After a day exploring the lagoon, their Aitutaki Brewery beer is a must. Open for brunch, lunch, and dinner every day except Sunday.

avateacafe.com

The Boat Shed Bar & Grill

A reliable destination for good drinks and seafood for lunch or dinner, this popular establishment offers wonderful views of the lagoon and beyond. The menu includes Japanese sushi platters, sashimi plates, chicken teriyaki, and local seafood dishes. If you’ve had a successful day’s fishing, the chefs are happy to cook your catch. The children’s playground is a plus – as are the well-priced cocktails

popoaraoceanbreeze.com

Mango Take Away Aitutaki

If you’re looking for a good meal on the go, you’ve found it right here. Mango Take Away in Amuri is handy to some of Aitutaki’s main resorts and hotels and serves up a delicious selection of pizza, pasta, burgers and Asian dishes, as well as cakes, pastries and desserts. You can tell how good this unassuming little establishment is by the number of locals who visit.

cookislands.travel/supplier/mango-take-away

Getting there

Aitutaki is the ideal place to shake off the stresses of modern-day living and escape the chilly depths of a New Zealand winter. Air Rarotonga flies a jet-prop Saab 340B Plus aircraft from Rarotonga to Aitutaki up to five times daily. You can book all the way there on an Air New Zealand itinerary.

The cruising Kiwis

From personal tragedy was born an incredible oceangoing journey,
with this intrepid family following their hearts – and their sense
of adventure – circumnavigating the globe.

words Liz French  |  photos Jon Nash, Ivan Hamill + SV Selki

Declan, Ivan, Rachel and Rob dressed for the Australian beaches.

Circumnavigating the world on your catamaran is a massive adventure. It has been normal daily life for the Hamill family of five (six counting the cat) for the last five years. The backstory, and one reason for it, is a devastating event that has been forever woven into the fabric of Rob Hamill’s life. 

Whakatāne-born Rob was 14 when the family lost contact with his older brother Kerry, known to be sailing in Southeast Asia. In 1978, when Rob was 16, it was confirmed that Kerry’s yacht had been ambushed in Cambodian waters by the Khmer Rouge and that he and a crewmate (the third shot during capture) had been held in the notorious Tuol Sleng prison in Phnom Penh, tortured, forced to sign false confessions, and murdered.  

Kerry with his girlfriend Gail aboard the Foxy Lady with her freshly painted eyes in
Phuket, Thailand.

Knowledge that could have stymied Rob Hamill has, if anything, impelled him forward. Rob represented New Zealand in rowing for 16 years, winning a silver medal at the World Rowing Championships. He rowed in the Atlanta Olympics and may be best known for when he and crewmate Phil Stubbs won the 1997 inaugural Atlantic Rowing Race. Rob wrote a book, The Naked Rower, about this. He also made a documentary, Brother Number One, based on the quest for resolution for Kerry. His magnetism as a raconteur made him a popular fixture on the speakers’ circuit.  

While the desire to retrace his brother’s journey was clearly a catalyst to set sail, it’s obvious this is a man with intrepid adventure in his DNA. He’s proud that his wife Rachel and sons, 22-year-old Finn, Declan (19), and Ivan (16), plus the cat, fully embrace it. 

They bought Javelot, a 43-foot Fountaine Pajot catamaran, in Whangārei in 2014. It had been sailed out from Belgium and required maintenance before the family could make their first foray out of New Zealand. They honed their skills with several months of Pacific Island sailing. Rachel was new to sailing and recalls a particularly gruelling trip to Tonga as the only time she just wanted off. 

Javelot, the Hamills’ floating home seeing out the day at Queensland’s, Double Island Point.

They departed on their circumnavigation of the globe in October 2018, making it to Darwin where Kerry had originally sailed from in 1977. When COVID-19 kept them in Australia, they discovered a captivating coastline, the Kimberley region in Western Australia a highlight. Being hit by lightning off the Gold Coast was the lowlight with thousands of dollars of electronics decimated.  

Watch the Hamill boys on YouTube (“Kiwi Boys”) to see how they are revelling in having the world as their playground and classroom. You see the fearless three leaping off the catamaran, shimmying up rigging, and swimming with whale sharks. Declan, referred to fondly as “EMC” (the Expendable Middle Child,) cutting free a craypot that got stuck around their rudder. Eldest son Finn freediving to near disaster. All exploring wherever they are mooring. “They react calmly and rationally to every situation and show emotional intelligence way beyond their ages,” says their father, confident the lessons in resilience learned at sea will serve them well.

Finn was pulled from the depths by his father and brothers following a free diving blackout (re-enactment). 

Finn is off the yacht often in his quest to row in the Paris Olympics this year, having already gained Silver in the Under 23 World Champs and competed in the men’s lightweight single at the World Championships in Serbia. 

Their route has so far taken them from Darwin up through Indonesia, including Ende on the island of Flores that Kerry had reported visiting. Then to Malaysia and Thailand. Future fluid plans include sailing up to the Mediterranean and on to the Caribbean before returning to the Pacific via the Panama Canal.   

Finn, Declan, Rob, Rachel and Ivan at Cambodia’s magnificent Angkor Wat.

The Hamills have felt the pull of Southeast Asia, where they experienced nothing but friendship and kindness, felt very safe and lapped up the local street food. “It goes against all our accepted food prep rules, yet we ate it for months and never got ill,” says Rob while admitting that drinking dodgy water did him in. They have also made friends with fellow yachties from all over the world. “The Kiwi flag is a positive thing.” 

The longer passages have proved challenging as they involve overnight sailing. The family takes turns at being on watch and Rob says he is always hyper alert for any natural or man-made threats. Technology is the other challenge, as it is vital for navigation and communication. Lose it or, worse still, your phone (which has happened), and it can take forever to regain all the apps and information on which life at sea and in a myriad of different countries depends. 

Because thousands are vicariously voyaging with them via their YouTube channel, “The Cruising Kiwis”, they make a commitment to post an update every Sunday. Rachel spends hours editing and collating the weekly videos of a family living their best (and occasionally worst) lives. Watch them and share what she describes as the privilege of being “strangers in strange lands”. 

Youtube.com/TheCruisingKiwis

Asia Pacific’s culinary gems

If you’re planning your next holiday, there are plenty of destinations around the Asia Pacific region that are culinary gateways to a world of gastronomic adventures.

KINN Capsule Hotel, Singapore

Finding yourself scouring socials to find the best restaurants, cafes or markets to enjoy delicious food when planning for your travels? You’re not the only one! Savouring local cuisine is one of the many ways to immerse yourself in the destination’s culture. In fact, Booking.com’s Travel Confidence Index for 2023 revealed 63 percent of Kiwi travellers said Food and Dining was top of mind for their next travel agenda.*

From the hidden hole-in-the-wall joints of Japan to the bustling night markets of Taiwan, embark on a mouthwatering adventure that is sure to leave your tastebuds dancing with delight. While you’re out and about indulging in local cuisines, you can rest your food-filled bellies at some of the best accommodations recommended by Booking.com — rest assured that your stay will be as remarkable as your dining experiences.

Zagame’s House

Melbourne, Australia

Spanning across various suburbs, travellers can find themselves pampered with choice when strolling down Melbourne’s iconic Lygon Street. Here travellers can find a diverse culinary offering from restaurants boasting a 400 cheese pizza to fiery ramen, depending on which side of the street you’re on.

Where to stay: Located in the heart of historic Carlton, Zagame’s House is a labour of love from hotelier brothers Victor and Robert Zagame. This 97-room hotel showcases the best of modern interior design, luxurious amenities, and sustainable architecture. From the art to the menu, every inch of Zagame’s House is designed to inspire you.

Beauty Avenue Inn

Kaohsiung, Taiwan

Step into a vibrant tapestry of flavours, colours and cultural experiences at Taiwan’s Liuhe Night Market, nestled in the heart of the city of Kaohsiung. This bustling market plays host to a multitude of food stalls offering Taiwan’s most tantalising street food. From fresh seafood delicacies to the delectable bubble tea that Taiwan is renowned for, each bite tells a story you’ll be delighted to partake in.

Where to stay: Beauty Avenue Inn is a short walk from Liuhe Night Market and a short drive from other famous attractions including the Kaohsiung Museum of History and National Science and Technology Museum. Regardless if you’re travelling solo or in a large group, this boutique hotel has a range of rooms to accommodate guests.

Tokyo, Japan

Discover a taste of Japanese comfort food at Homemade Ramen Muginae. Tucked away in the bustling streets of Tokyo, this unassuming hole-in-the-wall store exudes an authentic charm — but don’t be fooled by its humble exterior for the wait for a seat could take up to two hours!

Luckily, the restaurant takes daily reservations starting at 9am, leaving travellers plenty of time to explore the surrounding streets. With one third (33 percent) of Kiwi travellers wanting to immerse themselves in local culture when travelling, tasting authentic cuisine at critically-acclaimed restaurants like this is the way to go.

Where to stay: JR-East Hotel Mets Omori is ideal for those who spend most of their days out and about in the city streets as it’s at the centrepoint of various attractions. The hotel is an eight-minute walk from Homemade Ramen Muginae and is near well-known attractions such as the Atre Omori Shopping Mall and a myriad of shrines such as the Omori Sanno Hie Shrine, Iwai Jinja Shrine and Enno-ji Temple.

Hong Kong

Prepare to be amazed by the culinary excellence of Cheung Hing Kee, a Michelin-recommended street food destination located in the lively streets of Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.

Renowned for their Shanghai pan-fried buns, this eatery is a testament to the exceptional gastronomy Hong Kong boasts. Indulge in equally-mouthwatering local dishes including the siu mai and har gow as Cheung Hing Kee presents a symphony of flavours that is sure to capture the true essence of Hong Kong’s street food scene.

Where to stay: If you’re looking for a fancier stay, the Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong boasts seven dining options, including a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant, tapas bar and cocktail lounge for foodies to continue their culinary crusade. The refined Asian-influenced decor blends seamlessly with richly coloured furnishings amid captivating views of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong’s iconic skyline. The hotel enjoys a strategic location in the dynamic Tsim Sha Tsui neighbourhood, ideally situated for urban discoveries in Hong Kong’s shopping and entertainment district.

KINN Capsule Hotel

Singapore

Also ranked amongst the Top 10 most searched international destinations by Kiwis this winter season**, bustling Singapore is renowned for its street food culture. A must-not-miss culinary checkpoint is the iconic Maxwell Food Centre, which promises an array of rich flavours and aromas. Situated in the heart of Chinatown, this hawker centre is a culinary melting pot — whether you’re craving a traditional serving of laksa, a beloved national dish of Hainanese chicken rice or looking to beat the heat with a refreshing bowl of ice kacang, options here are plentiful and diverse.

Where to stay: You’ll have a great night’s rest in the spacious yet cosy capsule KINN Capsule Hotel. Boasting a total of 72 capsules designed for your comfort and privacy, this boutique capsule hotel is located in the heart of Singapore, a short distance from Chinatown, the Singapore River and National Gallery as well as a 10-minute walk from Maxwell Food Centre. It features a communal lounge and sun terrace, perfect for socialising on your travels.

*Methodology: Research commissioned by Booking.com and independently conducted by Milieu Insight among a sample of 8,800 respondents across 11 countries and territories across APAC (including 800 from New Zealand).

**Methodology: this report looks at search sessions in April (between 2023-04-03 and 2023-04-16) with check-in dates between July and August (2023-07-01 and 2023-08-31). For comparison figures we looked at search sessions between the same time period last year (2022-04-04 and 2022-04-17, with check-in dates between 2022-07-01 and 2022-08-31).

Six sea-sational stays

With World Ocean Day just around the corner, Booking.com has compiled a list of sensational stays with breathtaking sea views that offer both luxury and sustainability to the eco-conscious traveller.

Paku Palms

Covering more than 70 percent of the planet and home to the world’s incredibly diverse marine life, our oceans play an essential role in Earth’s ecosystem. World Ocean Day – held annually on June 8 – is marked to inform people of the major role the oceans have in everyday life and the impact human action has on its wellbeing. 

According to Booking.com research, a large majority (72%)* of Kiwi travellers confirm that sustainable travel is important to them, with 42%* saying that recent news about climate change has influenced them to make more sustainable travel choices. Additionally, two thirds (63%) of Kiwi travellers* say that they want to travel more sustainably over the next 12 months.

To showcase Earth’s beautiful oceans, Booking.com is sharing six incredible stays across the globe where sustainable efforts and stunning ocean views come together for the ultimate eco holiday destination. Besides offering breathtaking ocean views, these properties also have a Booking.com Travel Sustainable badge, meaning the properties have taken significant steps to operate sustainably, reduce their impact on the environment and engage more responsibly with the local community.

 SwaSwara Gokarna - CGH Earth, Gokarna, India

Situated on Om beach, this wellness sanctuary is built in harmony with nature, and with the earth and the ocean in mind. Guests can discover their inner self at the meditation deck on the cliff overlooking the ocean and take in the incredible scenery of the surrounding mountains. Being an active participant in the local community, SwaSwara’s kitchen cooks with ingredients sourced from local villages and from their own farms. Since fresh water is scarce in the area, the property gathers rainwater during the monsoon months and purifies it with a special system, consisting of three big reservoirs that can hold up to 4.8 million gallons (18 million litres) of water. 

Paku Palms, Coromandel, New Zealand 

Renowned for its pristine beaches, misty forests and summer vibes, the Coromandel is an iconic holiday hotspot that never fails to recharge the soul. With more than 400 kilometres of dazzling white sand beaches, lounge in the sun as you catch some surf and enjoy the sound of the waves. A leisurely 15-minute stroll to the beachfront,  Paku Palms is the go-to destination for those wanting to relax on a private deck with expansive panoramic views over the Coromandel Peninsula coastline and mountainous landscapes cloaked in native rainforests. This Travel Sustainable property also enables guests to book an array of eco-friendly tours and attractions around the Coromandel area. Ideal for travelling couples wanting to make the most of their holidays, wind down after a fun-filled day by soaking in the Balinese-style hot tub and enjoying complimentary continental breakfasts. 

Le Grand Galle By Asia Leisure, Galle, Sri Lanka

Offering spectacular views of the Indian ocean and the iconic UNESCO Heritage site, Galle Fort, this beautiful property is a perfect getaway for guests to relax and make their vacation dreams of sun, sea and palm trees a reality. Besides offering guests relaxation, the property has taken several steps to protect the environment and its community. This Travel Sustainable property invests a percentage of revenue back into community sustainability projects. Guests can arrange a tour organised by local guides and learn everything about the local ecosystems, heritage and culture or just get a bike to discover the surrounding area. Travellers can sip tropical cocktails by the pool overlooking the ocean, after a day exploring the stunning golden beaches and the colonial architecture of Galle.

Noah Surf House Portugal, Santa Cruz, Portugal

​​The west coast of Portugal is a great destination for surfing with popular surf spots and incredible waves for all levels of surfing. Travellers can combine their passion for surfing with travelling more sustainably to maintain the beauty of the ocean, by staying at Noah Surf House Portugal, a Travel Sustainable property, which has taken several measures to reduce their ecological footprint - perfect for the 62% of Kiwi travellers* saying they would be more likely to choose a sustainable accommodation, whether they were looking specifically for one or not. With windows facing the water, this property has uniquely decorated rooms without air conditioning, utilising the cooling sea breeze instead. The hotel has solar panels that generate 70% of their water heating needs, as well as an organic garden with chickens that help with the composting process.

Romans Villa, Gansbaai, South Africa

Set in Gansbaai, 200 metres from Romansbaai Beach, Romans Villa is a beautiful boutique guest house on Cape Whale Coast. With a private veranda overlooking the water, this Travel Sustainable property offers an environmentally-friendly stay in a fishing town popular for whale watching, sourcing most of their food locally and providing their guests with information about local ecosystems, heritage and culture. This coastal destination in South Africa has been taking action to address plastic pollution over the past few years by installing drainage nets to catch waste.

Encantada Tulum, Tulum, Mexico

Situated on a pristine beach between the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve and Tulum National Park, Hotel Encantada is a tropical paradise committed to protect and preserve the beautiful destination of Tulum. Each room is decorated with local hand-made artwork and fabrics and guests can enjoy organic dishes made from local ingredients. Guests can enjoy serenity and relaxation during a natural spa therapy or a private yoga class overlooking the beautiful ocean.

With over 110,000 properties globally now being recognised for their sustainability efforts with a Travel Sustainable badge on Booking.com, there is more choice than ever when it comes to leaving a lighter carbon footprint by making more eco-friendly decisions for your next getaway. 

Booking.com

Into the swing of it

Whakatane and Ohope have so much to offer all types of visitors, and golf lovers will find this corner of the country equivalent to a hole in one.

WORDS Hayley Barnett / PHOTOS Supplied

Head south from Tauranga for one hour and you’ll find yourself immersed in the beauty and flavours of the Whakatane District – a place which has come a long way in recent years. Yes, it still offers the same stunning coastline scenery, bush and beaches, but have you experienced its unbelievably tantalising array of cafés, restaurants and bars? Add to that two of the country’s best golf clubs and you’ve got yourself an easy weekend getaway to remember.

DO

Whakatane Golf Club

This 18-hole championship course is just a five-minute drive from Whakatane township and offers excellent lush fast greens with fairways that are mostly flat and forgiving. Its greens are great for approach shots, while there are some where accuracy is essential. The lounge bar and restaurant/café serves meals and snacks and, if you don’t have time to get there during the day, there’s the nine-hole Twilight Golf held on Thursday evenings.

Ngā Tapuwae o Toi

Meaning Footprints of Toi, this walkway captures the essence of Whakatane District. The track includes three major scenic reserves – Kohi Point Scenic Reserve, Ōhope Scenic Reserve and Mokorua Scenic Reserve. Head in a clockwise direction and experience the full 16km round trip with its amazing clifftop views, native bush and secluded beaches. Or do one stretch and get the Bay Hopper bus back to the start. 

Ohope Beach Golf links

Some say this is one of the best links courses in New Zealand and it’s plain to see why. Amazing views of the ocean and Whakaari/White Island keep visitors coming back for more. Its superbly-maintained course has been described as a hidden gem and boasts a refurbished clubroom lounge, a bar and café and is a premier destination for events.

Ohope Harbourside Trail

Stretching out over three kilometres, this harbourside trail is perfect for those looking for a nice walk, run or short bike ride. The walk is located along the shoreline of Ohiwa Harbour and has been designed to ensure the least disruption to the environment while offering stunning views.

EAT

1. L’Epicerie Larder

This French café, located in the heart of Whakatane, offers homemade breads and pastries that will immediately transport you to a quaint French village. There’s also great coffee and a whole host of other delicacies to get your tastebuds singing.

2. Fisherman’s Wharf

Head to one of Ohope’s best restaurants for great views and even better fish tacos. Hang out with a beer or wine on the spacious deck and try the excellent seafood and steak, or take away from the handy window and explore Ohiwa Harbour.

3. Moxi

If you’re after a classic Kiwi café, look no further than Ohope’s Moxi. The Hangover Breakfast will see you through the day, while the pancakes won’t disappoint.

4. The Comm 

Beer lovers tend to flock to The Comm in Whakatane for the Good George offerings, great atmosphere and mouth-watering food. They’re open from breakfast through to dinner and even cater to the kids. 

5. Gibbos on the Wharf

Serving fresh seafood and the classic fish’n chips, the Whakatane institution that is Gibbos on the Wharf gives the option of taking away or dining with a view. Bargain prices and good quality food have made this one of the town’s most visited takeaway joints.

6. Cigol

You could argue Whakatane’s Cigol is aptly named. It means ‘little town’, but there’s nothing small town about this Korean fusion restaurant. Giving off some serious urban vibes, the restaurant offers everything you want from a Korean foodie experience, but with a Pacific twist.  

whakatane.com

7 predictions for Kiwi travel in 2022

After more than 18 months of travel restrictions for New Zealanders, there’s no denying the excitement of our eventual return to travel in 2022 – and after months of lockdown for Aucklanders in particular, it can’t come sooner. 

In recent travel predictions, Booking.com reveals a renewed sense of optimism among Kiwi travellers keen to embrace the new normal and return to exploring the world in the year ahead. Read on for a sample of the trends:

1. Vitamin Vacay - More so than daily exercise or mindful meditation, getting away on holiday will become THE form of self-care in 2022, with over three-quarters of people (79%) affirming that travel helps their mental and emotional wellbeing more than other forms of rest and relaxation. The majority of Kiwi travellers (82%) say that having a holiday planned has a positive impact on their emotional wellbeing.

2.  Resetting the Out Of (Home) Office - When the pandemic hit, homes across the globe became our offices too, and the novelty of working remotely was realised. However, in 2022 we’ll see a significant rise in people wanting to take back control in a bid to firmly re-establish a healthy work-life balance as travel time itself will be strictly work-free for two thirds of Kiwi travellers (67%) in 2022.

3. All the First-Time Feels - Remember what it was like to board a plane for the very first time? Or even just to check into a hotel? After feeling ‘stuck’ for so long, rather than rushing through the journey, travellers will be relishing every moment, with a quarter (23%) most looking forward to the pure excitement and anticipation as the journey begins. 

Other trends include a renewed focus on community on our travels, from connecting authentically with the local community to ensure our impact on the places we visit and the people who live there is positive. Kiwi travellers are also keen on meeting new people, in particular a potential romantic interest, with four in ten (39%) hoping for love to strike on their next trip.

Take me to the river - a winter weekend away in the Waikato

Take me to the river...and the zoo, and the gardens – UNO’s Hannah Keys has hot tips for a weekend getaway in the Waikato.

PHOTOS HANNAH KEYS

With a free weekend and the whole family to entertain, we decided a trip to Hamilton was on the cards. Searching Booking.com, I found a gorgeous house just outside the city and right on the river; signed myself, my children Nico (7) and Inez (2), and my parents Janet and Roger up for two nights; then set about planning an itinerary that explores some of the city’s hot spots.

STAY

ON THE RIVER

When we arrived at our accommodation, On The River, after dusk on Friday evening, the air was heavy with the scent of eucalyptus. Fire and electric blankets on, we settled in with hot chocolate and felt right at home. This architecturally designed house is an absolute winner for group travel, with a huge kitchen and living areas in the main dwelling, along with four bedrooms. In the morning, the full majesty of the property was revealed, including its big outdoor space, rambling gardens and pebbled pathways leading down to the banks of the Waikato River. It would have been easy enough to snuggle up for the day and enjoy the serene scene at our doorstep, but our littlest travel companions put a swift end to that idea.

DO

WAIKATO MUSEUM

This trip was a reminder for me of the history Hamilton offers, from the early architecture lining the streets of the central city to the museums. We visited the Waikato Museum Te Whare Taonga o Waikato, taking in the fantastic exhibition of Marti Friedlander photography and the E Hina e! E Hine e! display exploring the contemporary relevance of female Maaori and Kanaka Maoli (Native Hawaiian) ancestors. There’s an interactive science gallery for kids as well.

HAMILTON ZOO

As soon as the kids caught wind of the fact that Hamilton has a zoo, it rocketed to the top of the to-do list. Actually, it was just as appealing for the adults, proving to be an enjoyable wander through a really-quite-beautiful compound. The animals’ enclosures are structured in such a way that you’re able to have the kind of close encounters you wouldn’t get elsewhere; think zebras scratching their backs on the fence a metre in front of you and giraffes having their lunch an arm’s length away.

HAMILTON GARDENS

We caught a break in the winter weather that let us explore the otherworldly Hamilton Gardens. We’d all either never been or not visited for a good decade, so we were all greatly impressed by these meticulously designed and transportive gardens, which left us feeling inspired and surprisingly well-travelled as we headed back home over the hill.

EAT

HAYES COMMON

Near the river in Hamilton East is the very cool Hayes Common. Reservations are a good idea, but we were lucky enough to nab a table outside on the fly, and it was well worth braving the cold for. The eggs Benedict and maple-soaked crêpes went down a treat, while my winter salad was a taste explosion, with house-cured salmon, smoked beetroot and a touch of citrus.

GREY STREET KITCHEN

We also stopped in for coffee and cake at Grey Street Kitchen, which is co-owned by two-time New Zealand barista champion Dove Chen. The food here is delicious; I had my eye on the gluten-free gnocchi with Hamilton-grown oyster mushrooms.

Our stay at On The River was courtesy of BOOKING.COM. I found the app so easy to use and the flexible cancellation policy meant I was happy to book without hesitation.

Northland: About as good as it gets for UNO editor Jenny Rudd

WORDS JENNY RUDD / PHOTOS SUPPLIED

If you mention Northland to anyone in Aotearoa, it’s often met with sighs of longing. People love it. Warmth, beauty, isolation – the best things come in threes. The top of our country has that delicious feeling of being a gazillion miles from anywhere, and there’s so much to do! This is the second year in a row my family and I travelled up there in the school holidays, and I feel like we’ve barely touched the surface. But here are my top picks – so far – from the land where the sun always shines.

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STAY

Via HomeAway, on this trip we rented a holiday house in Coopers Beach dubbed As Good As It Gets. It turned out to be a fair description. The property was on the water's edge in a private bay, so we were able to snorkel straight from our doorstep. This little town overlooking Doubtless Bay also had everything we needed to keep us happy, including a great supermarket, a dairy selling ice creams by the beach, and a spot for playing housie with my mum on the Saturday night.

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STRETCH

We blew away any lingering cobwebs with daily strolls at Taumarumaru Reserve between Coopers Beach and Cable Bay. An oversized grassy knoll, the scenic reserve has lots of tracks that take you up to some great vantage points from which you can gaze out over the ocean.

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SNORKEL

Just up from Coopers Beach is Maitai Bay at the end of the Karikari Peninsula, which curves around the top of Doubtless Bay. As we walked over the lip of the carpark and onto the top of the dunes, I saw a dream-like fantasy beach spread below us – white sand in a perfect crescent with rocks sprinkled at either end. While younger children stood in the shallows and dipped their heads beneath the surface to look at baby squid, my husband, UNO publisher Mat Tomlinson, and I snorkelled in bright blue water, which was teeming with wildlife thanks to the no-take rāhui. We went out around the coast with our four teens to swim through caves, holding rocks so we could sit on the bottom and look up at the fish floating around us.

Most mornings we kicked off with some sunrise fishing on Tokerau Beach. It’s the quintessential start of a day for a Kiwi on holiday. The kids loved it, although their interest in waking up at dawn waned as the week went on and they realised our fishing skills weren’t bagging us any fish.

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SLIDE

Head further north to Te Paki’s giant sand dunes, where you can rent a boogie board and tear down the slopes on your stomach. I’d never seen dunes this size before, and the view from the top was spectacular, all the way back to Ninety Mile Beach. Going really fast down seriously steep dunes made us laugh a lot, so here a top tip: laugh with your mouth closed when you’re tearing downhill. At the bottom of the dunes, you can follow the Te Paki stream to the west coast in a 4WD to check out the endless beach.

SNACK

A few minutes drive from our Coopers Beach base was the Mangonui Fish Shop. As well as exemplary fish ’n’ chips, they sell all things kaimoana at this picturesque spot on the water. If you’re not too full after your meal, see if you can manage an extra treat from their fine array of $5 desserts. We had to go back again so I could have the ice cream sundae and half a pint of chocolate mousse. On your way up to Te Paki, you should stop at the Container Café in Pukenui for a paua pie. Put it in your sat-nav: 4229 Far North Road. They’re world- famous in New Zealand.

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The Northland website has some great ideas on things to do and places to stay. Plan your trip out here. NORTHLANDNZ.COM

Booking.com reveals how the ‘pandemic effect’ could finally tip sustainable travel intent for Kiwis into impactful action

Booking.com reveals how the ‘pandemic effect’ could finally tip sustainable travel intent for Kiwis into impactful action.

New research from Booking.com suggests that the pandemic has been the tipping point for travellers to finally commit to their own sustainable journey, with 68% of Kiwi travellers believing we have to act now to save the planet for future generations.  

Booking.com’s 2021 Sustainable Travel Report reveals that more than three quarters (77%) of Kiwi travellers think sustainable travel is a vital part of achieving this, with two thirds (61%) stating that the pandemic has influenced them to want to travel more sustainably. The timing of the report makes the findings even more poignant, as the travel industry looks to rebuild amidst the ongoing pandemic, says Todd Lacey, Area Manager of Booking.com New Zealand. 

“Our research uncovers how the travel hiatus has opened New Zealanders’ eyes to the impact, both positive and negative, that their trips can have on local ecosystems and communities around the world,” says Lacey. “At Booking.com we believe travel is a force for good, but it has to be done in the right way to ensure we are protecting the planet for future generations.”

Lowering our footprint
Kiwi travellers shared a variety of steps they plan to take to leave less of a footprint on the world as they explore it including’ 80% wanting to reduce general waste, 79% wanting to reduce their energy consumption and 75% wanting to use more environmentally friendly modes of transport such as walking, cycling or public transport over taxis or rental cars. 

Fortunately, it’s not just good intentions. Many of these sustainable pledges are coming to fruition, with travellers revealing that while on holiday in the past 12 months, 40% made a conscious decision to turn off their air conditioning/heater in their accommodation when they weren’t there, 53% took their own reusable water bottle, rather than buying bottled water, and 38% did activities to support the local community. 

Yet Kiwi travellers feel their own efforts may be hindered when on holiday with over half (58%) admitting they get annoyed if their accommodation stops them from being sustainable. Further, despite 81% of travellers pledging to seek out accommodation that has reputable third-party sustainability accreditation, barriers still remain with 49% of travellers believing there simply still aren’t enough sustainable travel options available in 2021. 
But it may be more a lack of communication than a lack of action: 3 out of 4** Booking.com accommodation partners say they have implemented sustainable steps at their property, but only one-third (31%**) actively communicate their efforts to potential guests, with this mostly happening at the time of check-in (59%**). With half of Kiwi travellers still believing ample sustainable travel options are not available, this suggests that significant change is needed to make sustainability information accessible at earlier stages of the booking process.

Closing the gap, step by step

Booking.com believes they have an important responsibility to make sustainable choices easier, both for accommodation providers and travellers. That’s why the company is currently rolling out a program for properties that will support them in taking the next steps to become more sustainable. This includes sharing guidance, insights and best practices with properties via various educational opportunities, including handbooks and dedicated content, all available via the Booking.com Partner Hub.

In connection, Booking.com is currently displaying over 30 certifications officially approved by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC), Green Tourism and the EU Ecolabel, as well as multiple hotel chain sustainability programs. 

Booking.com is also encouraging its accommodation partners to update their sustainability information, which includes 32 practices across five key categories: waste, energy and greenhouse gases, water, supporting local communities and protecting nature. 

“As a leader in travel, at Booking.com we believe we have an important responsibility to make sustainable choices easier, both for accommodation providers and travellers. While there is much, much more to be done, we are optimistic about the passion and commitment we are seeing from all sides,” says Lacey. 

To download Booking.com’s full 2021 Sustainable Travel Report, click here.

Ready to getaway? We’ve got the best of the Cook Islands for every traveller

It’s an exciting time for Kiwi travellers with more options becoming available overseas, like the stunning Cook Islands.

After over a year of travel restrictions, Booking.com has new research revealing our appetite to explore the world remains undiminished. Nearly two-thirds of Kiwi travellers (59%) feel more hopeful about travelling in 2021 since the global roll-out of COVID-19 vaccines, with the bubble announcements welcome news for many keen travellers. Further proof that Kiwis are as eager as ever to dust off their passports comes as Booking.com reveals searches for accommodation in Rarotonga shot up 15 places in the most searched destinations year-on-year. 

For those itching to get back to island travel, Booking.com shares their picks for travellers planning to head to the Cook Islands.

Best for families

For many with kids in tow, escaping the New Zealand winter for an island getaway has become something of a July school holiday ritual. A week-long stay at a Rarotonga beachfront villa offers a relaxed yet fun-filled environment, with the added benefit of self-catering making mealtimes with the family a breeze. Overlooking the beautiful Muri Lagoon, Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa offers 5-star accommodation with a private pool and patio – and a completely self-contained space means you have all the luxuries of home at your fingertips. 

Best for a romantic getaway

If it’s a romantic trip for two you’re after, look no further than Aitutaki. Just a short plane ride away from the Rarotonga Airport you’ll find, situated on its own private island, the Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort. A luxury, adults only resort that offers beach-front and over-water bungalows with panoramic views of Aitutaki Lagoon, you can enjoy stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking, canoeing, snorkeling and cultural activities – or if you’re after some pampering, head to the spa that offers massages, a sauna and a hot tub. 

Best for getting back to basics

For a true island experience a stay at the Ikurangi Eco Retreat in Matavera Rarotonga will leave you feeling rested and at one with nature. You can choose from snorkeling at the nearby beach or hiking and cycling – the property offers free bicycles onsite. Just 5 minutes' drive from shopping and dining options, this eco retreat offers an onsite swimming pool and if a day outdoors has worn you out, enjoy a private meal cooked by a private chef served on your balcony. You can also unwind with an in-room massage.

Best on a budget

If you’re keen on an island getaway but the luxury resort life just isn’t for you, then a self catering beach hut could be just the ticket to relaxation. The Matriki Beach Huts provide absolute beachfront accommodation on the sunset side of the island. You can enjoy snorkelling from the beautiful white sand beach right at the front of the property. Or make the most of the outdoors and go on a hike or head out for a fishing trip. Each of the unique, rustic, self-contained beach huts, has its own terrace, simple cooking facilities and an open air shower.

Matriki Beach Huts, Arutanga, Cook Islands

Best for group travel

It’s time to reinstate the annual island getaway with the gang and where better than a private villa in sunny Raro. The Te Etu Villas are in close proximity to one another and offer all the amenities you could need for group travel, from a private pool to a poolside bar and barbeque. These gorgeous self contained villas also boast a sun terrace and both snorkelling and cycling can be enjoyed nearby this holiday home. 

Soak it in: breathtaking bathtubs with a view

As the days get cooler, the bathtub starts calling - that pure bliss of being enveloped in warmth. And as we look forward to the possibility of travel in the hopefully not-to-distant future, day dreams of spectacularly situated tubs creep in.

Taking a long, hot bath can be a truly rejuvenating and relaxing ritual. Pairing that soothing soak with panoramic vistas across the South African savannah, a stunning sunset over the Indian Ocean, or nestled among the hills in Queenstown and you have some truly epic self-care. With Stress Awareness Month in the month of April, Booking.com presents six ultra-luxurious bathtubs with one-of-a-kind epic views to take your bubble bath relaxation and travel daydreaming to the next level. Not all of these destinations have to be a daydream however – there’s a stunning jacuzzi stay right here in New Zealand for Kiwi travellers to luxuriate in this winter!

Lion Sands River Lodge, South Africa

For nature-lovers who like to mix adrenaline with relaxation on holiday, the bathtub at the Lion Sands River Lodge on the Sabi Sands Game Reserve in South Africa is for you. This long and generously deep tub faces the banks of the Sabie River, where guests can safely spot a wealth of wild animals drinking throughout the day. The tub can also serve as a welcome wind-down after an exhilarating guided walk or safari through the reserve. No matter how travellers choose to unwind afterwards, a glass of local South African wine is a must for that added touch of indulgence. 

Hotel Aire de Bardenas, Spain

The sleek tub at Hotel Aire de Bardenas in the Navarra region of northern Spain is sure to capture the attention of any architecture and design enthusiast. Its unique outdoor location, which is connected to the guest room, is a welcome way to recharge while immersed in the raw elements of a semi-desert landscape. And as there’s no roof enclosing the tub, an evening bath will give travellers the chance to sit back and stargaze in total peace.  

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay, Vietnam

The timber bathtub at the Six Senses Ninh Van Bay, sits on a dramatic bay on a peninsula of the same name overlooking the turquoise East Vietnam Sea. Guests can spend hours gazing at the mystic beauty of the white-sand beach and the towering mountains in the distance, or simply sit back and listen to the gentle waves crash against the shore in the background. To top off their serene soak, guests can spoil themselves with a six-course dinner and paired wines – a perfect way to end the day. 

Atlantis The Palm, Dubai

The spectacularly large tub at the Atlantis The Palm in Dubai will have every guest feeling like they are swimming underwater with nearly floor-to-ceiling views of United Arab Emirates’ largest aquarium, which is home to 65,000 marine animals. During their stay, travellers can sit back, pop a bottle of champagne (thanks to the hotel’s 24-hour dedicated butler service) and be mesmerised by the calming movement of the fish. 

Huvafen Fushi, Maldives 

Located on a private island that only a 20-minute speedboat ride can reach, the hot tub at Huvafen Fushi in the Maldives is all about privacy and tranquility – ideal for a royally romantic retreat. The circular hot tub is positioned in the centre of the bungalow providing a panorama of the indigo Indian Ocean – so that guests can spend all their time unwinding in serenity.  

Mahu Whenua, New Zealand

Surrounded by high country sheep stations, this luxurious stay Mahu Whenua is only a 20-minute drive from Central Wanaka, in our very own backyard. The private rooms which feature views of the mountains and Lake Wanaka also boast roomy hot tubs, where travellers can soak up their surroundings and enter a state of pure bliss. 

With a mission to make it easier for everyone to experience the world, Booking.com is sharing Getaway Deals for travellers to use when booking getaways, as it becomes safe to do so. Discounts start at 20 percent and are valid for stays until 30 September 2021.

Changing the way we stay

PHOTOS Supplied

Auckland’s The Hotel Britomart is the new kid on some beautifully restored blocks. UNO owners Jenny Rudd and Mat Tomlinson checked in.
With its cool, sustainable design; sweeping views of city and sea; soft, pristine sheets; and the kind of bathrooms you'd swap a child for, The Hotel Britomart has recently opened its 5-Green-Star-certified doors. If Auckland's the new ‘international’ for those of us from the provinces, we're more than happy to make the trip to experience it.

The spring sunshine was warm and bright when we arrived at the two slender brick towers of the Cheshire Architects-designed hotel, part of a 15-year restoration project of the historic Britomart precinct. The towers are artistically studded with irregularly arranged windows overlooking nine revitalised blocks and that 5 Green Star rating starts outside – at least 50% of the water used in the concrete was recycled and every brick is handmade.

Inside, we were greeted by hotel manager Clinton Farley, who served us kawakawa tea while pointing out elements of the design, explaining in fascinating detail where they were salvaged from and how they were restored. We felt like we were standing inside a brand new piece of history.

Want to book a stay for yourself? Be sure not to make other plans if you do, because between our hotel highlights below and the inner-city attractions on the doorstep, you really won't need to leave the 'hood. 

The lobby

They broke the rules here and we liked it. There's a story behind each space and the innovative fit-out means (in a good way) that you can't really tell where the reception is, unless one of the friendly staff is checking you in.

Our favourite thing: The nook with terracotta-coloured fabric walls and a cream built-in sofa. 

The rooms

The 99 rooms and five luxury suites are perfectly proportioned, styled with warm neutrals with an emphasis on texture.

Our favourite thing: The Sans[ceuticals] organic hair and skincare products in the bathrooms. 

The restaurant

As the name suggests, Kingi (short for ‘kingfish’) champions seafood. Just like the rest of the hotel, everything served is sustainable.

Our favourite thing: The mushroom bolognese on toast we had for breakfast.

THEHOTELBRITOMART.COM

Where to spend the last of the warmer weather

After enduring a year of uncertainty in 2020, the summer has been sweet and internationally envied here in our Aotearoa bubble. But with the sun setting earlier and earlier at the day’s end, it’s time to take advantage of the lingering warmer days by exploring everything that our backyard has to offer.

After enduring a year of uncertainty in 2020, the summer has been sweet and internationally envied here in our Aotearoa bubble. But with the sun setting earlier and earlier at the day’s end, it’s time to take advantage of the lingering warmer days by exploring everything that our backyard has to offer.

From the East Coast to the West, there is something for everyone. While we still have the glorious sunshine, pack your bags and take off with your family, friends and lovers for one last summer adventure!

Even if you’ve used up all of your annual leave, the pandemic has altered our ability to work from anywhere – even holiday. No longer confined to five days a week in an office and desperate for a change of scenery from Working From Home (WFH), Booking.com has predicted that we’ll see a significant rise in the “workcation”. Nearly a third (32%) of travellers have already considered booking somewhere to stay in order to work from a different destination. Now that there are zero excuses to not book that last minute holiday, you can dial in to your next Zoom meeting from the beach! 

For inspiration on where to enjoy the last of the summer sun, and to find award-winning properties to stay at on your trips, read on. Each of the following properties received a Booking.com Traveller Review Award in 2021, meaning they’ve been globally recognised for making travel experiences more memorable for all. With the frequent unforeseen changes in our ability to travel, Booking.com offers flexibility and a range of convenient cancellation options when you book, so you can still make plans and feel confident you won’t lose out if last-minute changes come up.

NEW PLYMOUTH

Located on the rugged West Coast of the North Island, New Plymouth offers stunning 360-degree views of the Tasman. The ocean surrounding Mount Taranaki makes this place a party for the eyes, so make sure you’ve packed your camera.

If you’re keen on hitting the surf, dabbling in a wide choice of scenic walks, or if you’re there for the great selection of food and drinks, New Plymouth is a great place to explore.

Surf or swim the world-renowned Fitzroy beach and catch the sunset across the beautiful west coast. Stroll the unmissable Coastal Walkway, stretching the entire length of the city, or go for a feast at the ‘Social Kitchen’ in Powderham Street.

WHERE TO STAY

After a day’s exploring, head along the coast to the beachside town of Oakura where the charming Ahu Ahu Beach Villas await. Set on a vast hill top with incredible oceanside views, the villas offer the perfect spot to enjoy an evening BBQ and grab a bottle of wine, as the sun sets on the stunning West coast skyline.

These unique villas are oozing with charm and character making for an extra special end to a fantastic summer.

HAHEI, COROMANDEL

Hahei is a must-do on the summer itinerary. This iconic beach town in the Coromandel is home to glorious white sand beaches and clear blue waters. Encompassed by grand Pohutukawa trees, Hahei beach is a fantastic place for families to relax and play.  

The town’s charming streets, attractive climate, and relaxing vibes make for an ideal vacation spot. Spend your last days of summer taking the famous walk to Cathedral Cove, eating and afternoon drinking at the residential food trucks at Hahei campground and spending endless hours at the beach with nowhere to be but there.  

WHERE TO STAY

Located on the Hahei beachfront, Hahei Holiday Resort offers self-contained accommodation with cooking amenities and great ocean views. As the beach and shops are all a leisurely stroll away, these holiday homes are the ideal situation for a traditional Kiwi summer holiday.

With a variety of room sizes and accommodation types on offer, the resort has something suitable to any group and budget. Take your family or friends for a relaxing stay and watch your worries melt away.

MANGAWHAI

An easy hour and a half drive north of Auckland, you’ll gladly find yourself in magical Mangawhai. Head away with your favourite company and choose from a plethora of activities from the active to the relaxation.

Walk the Mangawhai cliff for alluring views and go surfing at one of the local surf beaches such as Te Arai or Forestry. Head across the estuary for a spot of dune-boarding – or simply stay put landside and enjoy ocean views the magnificent dunes present.

WHERE TO STAY

Enjoy the perfect summer stay at the Tui & Nikau Cabins. This modern but homely accommodation offers beautiful garden views and is pleasantly secluded to let you truly escape the day to day. Relax in this naturally lit abode after a day of exploring the local area. Have a glass, toast some marshmallows and enjoy this escape.

AHIPARA

On the southern end of 90 Mile Beach discover the untouched West coast town of Ahipara. Watch horses run wild on the beach, catch a wave at Shipwreck Bay, rent out off-roading quad bikes or check out the famous local Fish n Chip shop for a sunset dinner. If it’s high action or relaxation you’re after, Ahipara will tick all the boxes for you. Make the most of the summery weather, pack the car and head up to the serene landscape of Ahipara to satisfy those holiday cravings.

WHERE TO STAY

Come take a big breath of fresh air at the Endless Summer Lodge in Ahipara for a pleasant weekend away. This lodge offers idyllic beachfront accommodation in a historic 1870s villa. Guests can relax in the hammocks, or enjoy a walk along 90 Mile Beach. At the end of your day, come back for a lush, wood-fired pizza in the traditional oven, built on the beautiful back deck. Book yourself a weekend of simple pleasures and enjoy everything that the Endless Summer Lodge provides

 PAIHIA

Known as the gateway to the Bay of Islands, Paihia is sure to stun with its good looks. Pop on the ferry to Russell for the day, or you can head five minutes over to Waitangi and delve into our country’s rich history, or simply take a leisurely stroll through the Paihia township. A small place with big character and endless surrounding places to visit will make for an exciting and scenic trip away. Paihia’s romantic landscapes will have you falling in love with New Zealand all over again.

WHERE TO STAY

Enjoy the warm earthy tones at the attractive ‘Cliff Edge by the Sea’ property. Set on a peaceful hilltop with grand bay views, this expansive holiday home offers free Wi-Fi and breakfast. An easy two-minute walk from the beach, this property is sure to impress every guest. Come and explore the Bay of Islands for the day and cosy up with a nice cuppa (or vino) for a relaxing evening back at Cliff Edge by the Sea.

Hot Hawke’s Bay

WORDS KSENIIA SPODYNEIKO PHOTOS ALEX SPODYNEIKO

Heat, wine and art deco parties. Welcome to Hawke's Bay

WINE AND DINE

World-famous wineries are obviously a big drawcard. You can cycle your way round the wineries (bikeabouttours.co.nz) which could end up being challenging if you over-indulge on the way round! If you're tempted to indulge, the cosy boutique Wineries Ride through. But if tipsy bike balancing is not the way you imagined your perfect vacation, focus on the “three whales” of local vineyards to skim the cream off the best Hawke’s Bay has to offer.

Mission Estate is definitely the first check point for any tourist. The oldest winery in New Zealand is located 20 minutes away from Napier – quite hard not to call on the way to the other sights. Outdoor lunches are adorable here! Pretty much the way you would imagine them to be in the year 1851, when the winery was established. Elegant architecture, muted talks, inspiring views and fantastic food. Leaving this place without giving local cheeses platter a try is a crime. Creamy blue “Kapiti Kikorangi” itself is worth $32, but this price also includes two more sorts and a bunch of fruits, jams and crackers. 

The other must-sees are Craggy Range (voted Best New World Winery) and Elephant Hill. Two “sisters” where built by the same architect and share the same standards of producing the best wine ever. Though skipping any of these would be a mistake. Surrounded by the epic mountains Craggy Range celebrates all things French – from cuisine to the architecture and landscapes. Whereas family-owned Elephant Hill belongs to Germans – determined and precise people focused on high technologies and outstanding presentation. Just ask for their iconic Airavata Syrah degustation ($120 per bottle while the degustation is only $5) and be ready to watch the show.

WHAT TO SEE

To feel the vibes of the festive Hawke’s Bay start with exploring its gem – Napier. The best way to discover this city is obviously by vintage car. Because where else if not in the world’s Art Deco capital? Either rent a lovely Hooters’ open top next to the Masonic Hotel or book one of the perfectly polished Art Deco Trust cars around the corner. Tere Morales-Probert from the latest is the guide to die for. 45 minutes in one car with her and you are ready to move here immediately – impossible to resist her jokes, positive attitude and touching love to Napier.

After the tour around the city and aesthetically beautiful lunch at Mission Estate head towards Havelock North – quiet small town right next to the picturesque Te Mata Peak. But no more city life for today! Time for some tough outdoor calories burning. Leave the car by the main entrance – only you, your big water bottle and spectacular surroundings are ahead. The 5 km hiking trail across Te Mata is challenging, but definitely worth the sweat. Just imagine yourself balancing on a narrow path at the very top of the mountain chain – scorched by the sun valleys on both sides, wind in your hair and Giant Redwoods at your feet. Welcome to the Real Middle Earth! The only thing ruining the euphoria of conquering the top is a steady roadway right to the peak. Honestly, how dare all those people distract you from this workout by passing by in their air conditioned 4x4? 

But nothing on Earth can ever compare with an adventure of getting to the famous Cape Kidnappers on a 1949 tractor! Sure, you’ve heard the story about the Tahitian boy, kidnapped by local Maori from the Captain Cook’s ship. Yes, that is that place! No one kidnaps people here anymore, on the contrary, they come willingly to see the world’s largest accessible Gannet Colony. There are several ways to get to the beautiful birds, starting from the 9 km walk along the beach – definitely not the most pleasant option! Mind the way back as well. Whereas comfy and fun trip with Gannet Beach Adventures is. Those guys use huge vintage tractors to bring people right to the bottom of Cape Kidnappers. As if the trip on the machines like that wasn’t epic enough itself, tractors are driven into the ocean or up the massive stones to make adrenaline rush through your veins. Guides tell interesting stories about this unique place and make jokes after jokes. Though the one about four million dollars made by one of the guides looked not quite as a joke! And he is divorced by the way. Just saying…

WHERE TO STAY

Hawke’s Bay is all about atmosphere and the Art Deco Masonic Hotel in Napier is 100% the perfect place to dive into it from the very first second. Located in one of the rare buildings not ruined by the 1931 earthquake, this hotel is insane.

Just imagine, they still keep the secret underground bar, operated during the years when alcohol was prohibited! Bar counter, graffiti, chairs – everything is left as if it was abandoned only yesterday. Though, guests are not allowed to come down these days. 

Many other things are preserved here right as they were made a century ago: massive staircases, tiny doors (how slim and short people used to be!), old-fashioned chandeliers and mirrors. So you literally live in history.

The most exciting part about this hotel? Not a single room is like another! Makes every of your 46 trips to Hawke’s Bay pretty special, huh? That is exactly how many rooms they have.

Masonic Hotel can easily be called the city’s centre of gravity – no matter if you’re in search for the Six Sisters houses, returning from the jazz concert, or just feel like buying a scoop of real fruit ice cream from the nearest shop – you will always end up nearby the hotel. Isn’t it just convenient?

UNO Staycation: Rotorua

We wanted a weekend away with our children; an antidote to screen time: adventure, laughing, and fun. And we didn’t want to spend ages travelling. So we took a staycation in Rotorua! The money we saved on travel (just an hour down the road) and accommodation (we didn't need any, we slept at home!), we spent on experiences. It was a decision well made.

There must be something in that Vegas air, everyone working in this booming tourist industry was friendly and knowledgeable, and they all genuinely love their jobs.

We were a fairly big group: Mat, his mum (love you, Susie!) and I, our five children and a young nephew. The children ranged from four up to 13, so adrenaline was the order of the day. And that's what we got!

Saturday am: Up the Skyline Gondola and down the luge. I'm a wimp so doubled up with my daughter and took the slower of the three routes down through the trees.

Saturday lunch: A hearty lunch at the iconic Pig & Whistle refuelled the whole team, ready to go again.

Saturday pm: Agroventures is home to six adrenaline-fuelled rides. Our big children found soaking the youngsters on the Agrojet he most amusing activity!

We drove back home to The Mount, had a huge dinner and fell asleep almost immediately. Up early on Sunday morning and a short drive back to the Rotorua thanks to that brilliant toll road round Te Puke.

Sunday am: This was my favourite: sloshing around in warm water inside an inflatable rolling ball at OGO. Our stomach muscles ached from giggling.

Sunday afternoon: After all that action, the Polynesian Spa was a great choice. We loved the new Priest Spring acidic mineral hot pool overlooking the steamy lake.

A debrief and afternoon tea at the country's café of the year, Capers, rounded off our weekend just perfectly.

#UNOLovesRotorua

The itinerary:

Saturday

Morning: Up the Skyline gondola and down the luge

Lunch: Pig & Whistle

Afternoon: Agroventures

Sunday

Morning: OGO

Lunch: I took a picnic

Afternoon: Polynesian Spa, followed by afternoon tea at Capers

My heart lies in Fiji: Nicky Adams shares her favourite stays

WORDS NICKY ADAMS IMAGE SUPPLIED

International jet-setting explorer and, in another life, Condé Nast Traveller writer, Nicky Adams, has a whole new perspective on travel, given her permanent luggage of three small children.

My heart lies in Fiji - always has, always will. While there are many beautiful island destinations in this world, they don’t all come complete with a welcome that feels absolutely genuine, a national pride which shines out, and the locals’ desire to share their blessings with you, a passing traveller. And this doesn’t just apply to the resorts; venture out to central Fiji and there is not only magnificent countryside, but also new depths of hospitality. As for the outer islands, the beauty of these is nothing short of jaw dropping. However, while there was once a time I loved to explore, I now have three young children, and I can’t think of anything more horrific than discovering new horizons with them in tow. Oh no; I want streamlined travel, I want ease and I want cocktails, and lots of them. 

Which leads me straight to Denarau, a wee pocket of joy along the Fiji’s west coast. Granted, the beach does not have the wow factor or the snorkeling opportunities found at the outer islands, however a day trip to these is a breeze to arrange. And what Denarau offers in abundance is convenience and variety: resorts, restaurants and activities. So whether you are zipping over for a short stay or combining a stopover with an island retreat, ease is the name of the game. Whip through the airport (currently being upgraded) and after a 20 minute cab ride, voila! Check in, throw down your bags, strip off your winter warmers and melt into a ringside seat at the oceanfront bar. Perfect.

Here are some of the resorts who get that job done.

Radisson Blu Resort Fiji Denarau

Rated the Number One Family Resort in Fiji in the 2016 and 2017 TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards, this is a spectacular location. Families flock here, loving the extensive grounds, selection of three kids’ pools, and of course the particularly cool (usually supervised) water slide. The lush tropical landscaping makes you feel as if you really are in Fiji as opposed to just a five-star-resort anywhere in the world, and this tropicana also helps dull down the noise of all the wee ones, so those dozing by the adults-only pool remain undisturbed. The Radisson in my opinion has a number of big draw cards – firstly it’s the only resort to boast climate-controlled pools. There is also good shade-sail coverage over the pools, which is unique to this resort, and finally there is the offer of some complimentary water sport activities. The Blu Banana Kids Club is comprehensive, but I was more impressed by the daily activities, so that if you don’t want to use the club, there is still plenty to do. The rooms are spacious and well appointed, however next October a big overhaul will start its first phase, which will take the rooms to a whole new realm. Incidentally, despite offering six fabulous restaurant choices (check out Signature Blu for fine dining) the one-bedroom suite comes with full kitchen facilities – and, gasps from those who enjoy home comforts, a washing machine and dryer. For families of five, if the youngest is an infant, you can fit into the suite, but you’ll need to contact the resort directly.

radissonblu.com/resort-fiji

Sheraton Fiji Resort

This resort is an integrated complex, which allows you access to both the facilities of the Sheraton and the Sheraton Villas, and the shared foyer will frankly knock your socks off. As you walk through the open entrance and look across an infinity pool to the ocean beyond, it’s hard to hold back tears of joy! Aimed at families, the villas comfortably house larger groups. While the exterior of the complex feels a little dated, there were details that make all the difference to a stay. The suites are spacious, towels were found to be soft and fluffy, the plunger coffee plentiful, and the kids’ pool ideal for young ones, and crucially, nice and close to the accommodation. Unlike the Radisson, where getting a hot spot around the pool can be cutthroat at times, here it’s a less aggressive activity. Another bonus is that guests are able to use the facilities at sister resort The Westin, which has, amongst other things, a brilliant outside play area for young kids. It’s a sad day when you admit to getting excited about a playground, but when the kids have had too much sun, this shaded area is enough to make me want to whoop with joy. Never mind the exceptional spa facilities and the access to the Denarau Golf and Racquet Club, just give me a decent swing and my heart sings.

sheratondenarauvillas.com

Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa

The Sofitel has an easy-breezy feel about it and the vibe is super family friendly, with little touches like an outdoor movie area close enough to the rooms for older kids to hang out unsupervised. It offers some really enticing deals for Accor members; amongst them, discounts of up to 50 percent on meals from the restaurant, and the day I visited, FJ$45 for unlimited soft drinks all day (plus alcoholic cocktails at certain times – yum). I do feel that this resort is a little tired and less up to the minute than others, however, to compensate for that the Sofitel has pulled something quite spectacular out of the bag in the form of The Waitui Beach Club. This is taking the idea of ‘adults only’ very seriously, even boasting its own check-in area. To ensure tranquility both the ‘Club’ and the rooms included in the Waitui Club, are located away from the family rooms. Oozing luxury, a peaceful vibe pervades. All the trimmings can be found: white daybeds, a glass walled gym overlooking the ocean that offers, amongst other things, yoga classes to help unwind further. If that’s not enough, beautiful people with beautiful silver trays of canapés waft around periodically throughout the day. To top it off, there’s an hour of complimentary evening cocktails. And not a child in sight.

sofitel.com/Fiji_Denarau

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NICKY’S TOP TIPS

• Check out the Tuckers ice-cream corner just outside the front of the Sheraton, delicious and a third of the price of the New Zealand Natural cones in the resorts.

• There is a medical centre on Denarau, and I can vouch for the fact that the service is quick and efficient.

• For à la carte I would recommend Signature Blu at the Radisson. Watch out for exclusive restaurants that are ‘cashless’ and menus that don’t include tax (on the list price) or vegetables, or you could, like us, find yourself paying over FJ$100 for a slab of steak alone.

• You can take some food types into Fiji, so if you like fresh milk, freeze it and take it as the resorts seem to only sell UHT. Other items to take are gourmet crackers, cheese and chocolate, all of which tend to be highly priced.

• Take a taxi to the port early in your trip and stock up on beer and supplies from the supermarket there.

• Flexibility with travel dates can result in competitive room rates. Also bear in mind that by using an agent you may be able to work out a room configuration that you cannot do online.
  

A long weekend in Los Angeles: our editor shows you how

WORDS + PHOTOS Jenny Rudd

So you probably think it's not possible, what with that 12 hour flight. But it all dovetails neatly. The flights are overnight both directions, and there's only a 3 hour time difference, which you barely notice. Leave Auckland Friday night and land mid-morning on the same day. Then leave LA on Sunday night and land back home first thing on Tuesday. Because you've slept all night on the plane you'll be fresh enough to go to work that day. So you can go on holiday to America and only take Monday off work. What a great shimmy!

Friday

If we're only going for the weekend, we're staying in Venice Beach with the action. We dumped our stuff and got straight outside. Using your Uber app, you can pick up ebikes to cruise along the boulevard. It's a slow ride because there's so much take in and see. Although Venice is famous for Muscle Beach and oiled bronze bodies, there's also a hippy, anything-goes vibe which you notice straight away, cycling through fragrant puffs of weed smoke; marijuana's legal in California.

The bike path ran for miles. Eventually the bright colours and pleasant oddball residents faded to the sleeker Santa Monica. The farmer's market was in full swing so we gulped down bright and sweet blood orange juice and turned round to head back.

We were amazed by the number of people using all the public facilities; there were lots of basketball matches going on with spectators joining in and dropping out, the skatepark was a blur of tie dye and wheels on concrete. A huge, empty car park had been repurposed as an ice hockey pitch.

After a full day of biking and sightseeing, we were pretty happy to grab takeaway caprese salads from the deli next door to the hotel and eat them in bed, flicking through the millions of TV channels.

Saturday

If a tour guide is as enthusiastic and knowledgeable as Daniel, you know you're going to have a good time. An online search had showed us that ALL Day LA Tours would teach us about the history of the city and give us ideas of things to do. We started in Hollywood at the Walk of Fame, then up to the Hollywood sign which used to be a real estate sign for the land underneath in Franklin Village, a peaceful graveyard housing some of the greats: Marylin Monroe, Hugh Hefner, and my favourite - Peter Faulk of Columbo fame.

Daniel took us through the grounds of Greystone Mansion, a huge estate in Beverly Hills with landscaped grounds built in the twenties by oil tycoon Edward L. Doheny for his son, Ned. It's since been gifted to the city. What a story; Ned killed himself and his secretary in one of the spare rooms. The two men had been involved in an oil scandal with Ned's father.

The whole tour was story after story like this and we whizzed around in a comfy people mover with no windows for maximum photo opportunities. We finished off driving down Rodeo Drive and all of us goggling at the outrageous displays of wealth.

Saturday night in Venice Beach was lively, we decided to go for sushi just off the main drag which was a great choice after all the chips and cookies we'd packed away during the day. The interior was sparse and urban and the sashimi was excellent.

Sunday

We had a late start over the continental breakfast included at the hotel, then walked to the achingly cool Abbot Kinney Boulevard. There are murals of the sides of buildings everywhere, and the artiness of the locals really shows. We heard stories that it's been gentrified and that had changed quite a bit over the years. But we loved it. The thought and design that had gone into every space whether it's a clothes shop or restaurant gives you so much to stop and look at.

Lunch was a huge pile of salad from Greenleaf which described themselves as a gourmet chop shop.

A sunny stroll through the canals which are a great surprise to find in such a sprawling city, and we picked up our bags from the hotel and headed back out to the airport for our 9pm flight.

An entirely different continent and three days of discovery, then back feeling refreshed. The best way to holiday.

Stay:

Inn at Venice Beach

Retro rooms with huge images everywhere of Venice Beach over the years. It felt retro and fun with pops of orange on white bedspreads. The location was fantastic: 20 minutes from the airport, right near the action, clean and quiet.

innatvenicebeach.com

Eat:

Sushi Enya

Chef Kimiyasu Enya trained for 10 years before setting up his three restaurants in Los Angeles. The interior was industrial and all focus is on the clean bites of sashimi.

sushienya.com

Move:

Don't even think about renting a car. We used Uber and the scooters and bikes which were everywhere, and easily unlocked with our Uber app.

m.uber.com

Hamilton through the Insta-lens: the most snappable spots in the city

Modern-day travels are not only about new places, people or flavours anymore. Perfect Instagram pictures are playing the leading role. Not a problem in Hamilton – probably the most Insta-suitable city in the area.  

WORDS Kseniia Spodyneiko PHOTOS Alex Spodyneiko

#TeaWithAView

To start this one-day photo-hunt in the Waikato region, we drove extra 10 km from Hamilton – directly to the hidden in between the fields and farms aristocratic Zealong Tea Estate. From the spacious black-and-white shop to the traditional high tea ceremony - this place is all about sophistication. 

Even its story is extraordinary: 11 years ago local tea lover Vincent went to Asia and selected 1,500 cuttings to start tea growing in New Zealand. Little did he know about the upcoming challenges! After the long quarantine only 130 plants survived! Those were the strongest and the best ones. The ones that quickly turned Vincent’s small garden into a 1 million sprouts organic plantation. 

And by “organic” they mean certified world’s highest food safety standards. Literally, they are not even allowed to spray the grass. At Zealong they hire people to get rid of bags manually instead! And I thought having a personal Whittaker’s flavour “Waikato Grown Oolong Tea in Dark Chocolate” was already cool enough…

We were lucky to be guided around by the amazing Annalese Webber. Currently the administrator, she started her career as a waitress in Zealong café, where she still makes traditional tea ceremonies for guests. And that is a must! Followed by a high tea on the terrace with an epic view over the plantation, this process is simply hypnotizing. 

Talking about the views – grab the cutest cupcake from a traditional British three-tiered tea plate and proceed to the small lookout nearby. Strike a pose and be ready to wake up famous. 

#NeverStopExploring

Hamilton Gardens are yet another place not to be missed. After all, what else if not all those colourful flowers are the reason for the nowadays photo hysteria? 

The famous local sight is a tricky labyrinth of traditional for different countries and centuries gardens. Dive into the Italian Renaissance for the impressive geometry and symmetry. Japanese corner surprises with its picturesque pond. Sustainable Backyard brings in a touch of coziness and childhood memories. And the authenticity of the Indian Char Bagh can confuse even the most experienced travellers (the best perspective is at the corner to the left from the entrance).

In the second half of the exciting walk you will bump into the Tudor Garden that truly steals the show! Epic stone tower, beasts’ sculptures, recognisable green and white stripes (thank you Jonathan Rhys Meyers for turning us into the Tudor experts) – perfect spot! Stay on the balcony to capture the fantasy atmosphere of this place in its best angles.

#Foodporn

When it comes to food, nothing can go wrong in Hamilton. This city is famous for vibrant interesting restaurants. Overlooking the beautiful Waikato River is the popular Gothenburg with its fancy tapas menu. Crispi potato gnocchi with blue cheese, walnuts and pear are a win-win: delicious and beautifully plated. By the way, this place is known for the best view over the river. You got the idea.

For a less pretentious lunch head to Mexico or Iguana. Located right across each other on Victoria Street, they can turn the decision-making into a nightmare. Softshell tacos with achiote plancha pork belly in apple chutney or a seasonal pizza with coffee-rubbed venison and smoked mozzarella on a plum sauce base? Both, please.

No matter what your choice is, make sure you leave room for dessert. Duck Island Ice Cream (300a Grey Street) is organic, made in-store and is literally the best ice-cream ever! Will trade my left hand for an extra scoop of that Maple, Honeycomb and Smoked Almond calorie bomb. And they have 17 more outstanding flavours. Rhubarb Szechuan Peppercorn, anyone?

Iguana Restaurant

#SkyIsTheLimit

The rest of the day we spent admiring Zuru Nightglow. Annual hot air balloons show is the part of the weekly Balloons over Waikato festival. This event is huge – Zuru Nightglow alone is said to be visited by 80 000 people! 

At 8 pm enormous balloons in shapes of hugging birds, cartoon helicopters and rockets start to, well, glow following the rhythm of the popular hits. Culmination comes with the fireworks. As beautiful as hard to capture! You simply can’t beat thousands of people photobombing your pics.

But there is always a second chance for someone fascinated by the hot air balloons in Hamilton. During the summer season they fly over the city every morning. 

#RealLife

(Things to do in Hamilton for those not addicted to Instagram):

Te Aroha Mineral Spa

Fed by the world’s only hot soda geyser, this spa offers private wooden tubs and relaxing beauty treatments by Mount Te Aroha. 

The Base

The largest shopping centre in New Zealand is definitely worth a visit. Loved by beauty moguls for The Body Shop, Lush and L’Occitane all in one place.

Waikato Museum

Dinosaurs, Tourism posters, Milk production – Waikato Museum exhibitions are anything but boring.

A whole new world: you’re never too old for Disneyland

WORDS NICKY ADAMS PHOTOS SUPPLIED

Don’t try to resist Disneyland’s pastel allure – this magical alternate universe really is fun for all ages.

Given it’s known as ‘The Happiest Place On Earth’, it’s hard to keep expectations in check ahead of a trip to California’s Disneyland. After all, this is it, the childhood land of milk and honey – one huge expanse of delirious delightfulness. It’s like a parallel universe has been created, filled with flowers, colour, magic and rides – so many rides. There are marshmallow dreams coming at you from every direction from the minute you step through the gates, and even the most sceptical of sceptics wouldn’t be able to resist the joy.

Now, to start with full disclosure, historically I’ve never loved theme parks, purely because an adrenaline junkie I am not. Big Dipper? A big not likely, so I certainly wasn’t visiting Disneyland for the rush. It had been a family dream to make the trip, and with three children between four and 10, the question was when, not if, it was best to take the plunge. In reality, absolutely any age works. As I watched my husband Scott shove the children aside so he could jump onto the first carriage of the It’s A Small World ride, I realised with certainty that you’re never too old for Disneyland.

The city of Anaheim is home to Disneyland Park and Disney California Adventure Park, which sit amid a district known as Downtown Disney. Much of the surrounding area is taken up with hotels of various degrees of swankiness, which service the parks. Downtown Disney is where the magic begins; a pedestrianised paved area, this hub is brimming with eateries and retailers. Among the flower gardens and benches, you’ll often see street performers – and we’re not talking a few juggling balls. Calibre-wise, we’re one notch off Broadway.

Despite the fact that the minute we arrived, our children were gagging to get to the parks, we opted to have a ‘rest day’ to chill out by the pool. Trust me, you need to be firing on all cylinders once you’re within the hallowed walls. There are a number of different options for passes; whichever you choose, strategy is imperative. I’m not organised by nature, but this is one time when military-style planning is not OTT. The Disneyland website is well worth spending time on, and a Disneyland app that provides wait times is potentially a lifesaver. Multiple entry on your pass allows you to come in and out as the kids become tired, and for us also meant our older kids – and Scott – could return at night and do all the more hardcore rides. Another bonus was being able to leave the parks to eat in the Downtown area.

We found the food pretty ho-hum inside the parks, so we packed plenty of snacks and water, and tried to last as long as we could. We picked Disneyland for our first day (not all tickets allow you to go between parks). It’s not a wild exaggeration to say that as soon as you’re inside, the euphoria takes hold. Everywhere you look, there are Disney characters; princesses, villains, heroes – all larger than life, friendlier and just as appealing as newborn pups. Although the temptation is to throw yourself on them, there is a protocol, with the kids quickly forming a line to get a handshake and autograph from each character. When it comes to the rides, some visitors plan their route around their preferences, some meander, and some are guided by the FastPass – a fantastic way to jump the queues. However, this isn’t available on all the attractions, so find out in advance if it works for the activities you want to do.

We largely ambled around picking the rides the kids fancied and didn’t seem to have lines that were too long. Of course, realistically, queueing is unavoidable; a bit like petrol prices, you just have to suck it up, and when the surroundings are so totally awesome, it seems churlish to moan about a queue.

So how did I fare on the ride front? Actually, pretty well. I gritted my teeth and went on the big Pixar Pal-A-Round wheel; with a grin fixed on my face, eyes squeezed shut behind my sunnies, I gripped with white knuckles to the side. I accidentally went on the Radiator Springs Racers ride, which I thought would be a gentle drive through the mountains. It transpired that behind the alpine façade was a well-hidden roller coaster, so I spent the duration screaming, with my head buried in my eight year old’s lap. But I loved all the less hairy options, of which there are plenty. As for the kids, well, they hit everything hard and fast – and with a range of rides that’s beyond comprehension, there’s something to suit every level of tolerance. To be honest, though, the rides are just one small part of the thrill.

Within each park, there are a whole range of experiences and scheduled shows that are put on throughout the course of the day – some are intimate performances, others take place in large amphitheatres. They’re absolutely worth going to; we were wowed by (shudder if you will) the Frozen performance, which in itself it was worth the cost of the pass. Another big whoop for our family were the parades that take place in the late afternoons. As the characters bound past, all twitching tails, shaking feathers and shimmering sequins, you can’t help but marvel at the truly incredible spectacle. Another must-see are the fireworks displays. As each rocket bursts sky high in pyrotechnic glory, it’s proof beyond doubt that here in Disneyland, the magic never ends.

DISNEYLAND.DISNEY.GO.COM

How to do Disney:

• check that your travel dates don’t clash with any events being held at the Disneyland parks, or you may have to vacate early.

• consider Character Dining at a Disneyland Resort hotel. The characters entertain you while you eat – super-fun for the kids.

• booking in advance is essential. ... choose your timing. The heat and American holidays can be intense, though we loved going in October, when the Halloween celebrations proved to be a bonus. Be sure to check out the daily calendar too.

• consider the benefits of the Disneyland Resort Hotels: proximity plus an Extra Magic Hour, when the park is closed to everyone else. Do note that not all rides are open during this time, however.

• also think about staying in one of the hotels along ‘the strip’, Harbour Boulevard. It’s an easy walk and there are regular buses.

• don’t worry too much about security. Bag checks are conducted on entering Downtown Disney. The one incident of unruly behaviour I saw drew three undercover security guards faster than I could say, “Mickey Mouse.”

• don’t take your own pram. They can be hired daily.

• and don’t judge locals with Disney tattoos. You’ll be seeing a lot of them.

Summer in New York

We sent our creative director, Emma, to New York City to see what goes on in summertime in the Big Apple…

WORDS + PHOTOS EMMA STADDON

Bon voyage!

Early morning rattle at the door… I’m not ready. “What do you really need anyway?” Jen and Mia run through the essentials: Passport? Yes. Wallet? Yes. A few clothes? Yes. Then IT’S TIME TO go to NEW YORK, BABY! Jen throws in some X-rated travel advice, and we embark on the 2-minute drive to Tauranga airport…

New York greeted me with a balmy heat. I fished out my sunnies and took a moment to acknowledge my new status as a tourist. I threw back a cold drink, then set to pounding the pavement with the rest of them. Here’s my NYC advice, after two weeks exploring one of the world’s greatest cities.

See

The Metropolitan Museum of Art: I came here after being underwhelmed at the clichéd and dull collections of the Museum of Modern Art. I’m so glad I did. Although the work is ancient, the selections are powerful, and perfectly curated, so you get the best from each piece. The Egyptian ruins encased in glass architecture were magical. I recommend ending your tour at The Cantor Roof Garden Bar, where you can sip a cold bevvy and soak up views of the Manhattan skyline. American Museum of Natural History: A place of true wonder and colossal dinosaurs!

Experience

A Yankees game: I’d never been to a baseball game. It was everything I love about cricket on a sunny day: beers, friendly chatter, and a cheer and a clap every now and then when something exciting happens. Sleep No More: I went to this immersive theatre experience based on Shakespeare’s Macbeth on a friend’s insistence. She said it was the best thing she’d ever seen and she’d refund my money if I didn’t enjoy it. Sold! You arrive at McKittrick Hotel to a film-noir setting, put on a white mask and make your way through dark rooms within the hotel, viewing snippets of the story whilst walking through gravel courtyards and dance halls. And you get to peer over actors’ shoulders as the drama unfolds. I didn’t need a refund. Sailing the Hudson: I missed the boat twice on this! Once because of the weather, and once because I’d wandered way off course, exploring on the other side of town. One for next time. The People: They were all sharp-minded, warm and animated. I was able to catch up with UNO favourite, Max Gimblett, for a spiritual chat on all things worth talking about and to preview his latest works: fresh, contemporary and lusty pieces of art that I’d love to own!

Stay

For easy city access, book The Hotel at Times Square: I came here on a train straight from the airport. In fact, I didn’t take a single cab during my whole stay. Just trains and walking. For longer stays, Airbnb it in Brooklyn: Leafy streets with a local neighbourhood vibe. I’m glad I booked the whole two-week stay here: it was so cheap! And I felt like a local, getting to know the café baristas, the family-run bodega, and kids on the corners. There were direct train lines to the city, and it was a chilled reprieve from the busy city hustle.

Eat / drink

Sunday in Brooklyn: The phenomenal hipster brunches were culinary genius. Pizza: It’s everywhere, hot, cheap and delicious. Balthazar: A beautiful, iconic brasserie with crisp, white linen and suave waiters. Surf Bar: An inner-city beach nook; drink margaritas with your toes in the sand! Fette Sau: The best BBQ beef ever (try the vinegar sauce), with sharing plates of meat, beans, slaw and bread, washed down with jugs of boutique beer in a dimly lit, garage-style pub. The Dead Rabbit (in Battery Park): Voted the world’s best bar, this hole-in-the-wall serves beers and plenty of chat with fellow bar propper-uppers – and a Scotch egg, par excellence. The Standard Plaza: It’s the ultimate swanky experience with pop-up garden-style bar, and with changing chefs, très cool. The Butcher’s Daughter: I ordered without seeing the ‘veggie slaughterhouse’ signs and had to return my vegan bacon. Loosie’s Café: espresso-style coffee for that morning fix.