California dreaming

Catherine Sylvester and her family escaped the Kiwi winter for a scenic coastal road trip in sunny California, hitting up the best the Golden State has to offer along the way.

The Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

Four weeks, one state, multiple Costco lunches with mostly fabulous weather, and I can safely say we love California. Flying into San Francisco and departing from Los Angeles meant renting the biggest car I’ve ever seen, and hundreds of miles covered in between. 

First stop: San Francisco. Steep streets, Mrs Doubtfire, the Summer of Love and the painted lady houses of Full House fame. The presence of two iconic structures looms large over this northern California city – the Golden Gate Bridge and former prison Alcatraz. Both are situated over the harbour – one a conduit of movement and travel, the other an insurance against it. We tackled both with equal enthusiasm.

Golden Gate Bridge

Hiring bikes in town, we cycled along the waterfront in beautiful sunshine, pulling off jumpers and reapplying sunscreen. Upon reaching
the bridge, we entered a low-hanging, chilly cloud, causing the rapid redonning of clothing. Such is San Francisco. To the accompaniment of harbour fog horns, we made our way across the bridge and onto the adorable tourist town of Sausalito for burgers and ice creams back in the sunshine before the ferry ride home.

The island of Alcatraz.

Alcatraz Island

Make sure you book well in advance for Alcatraz as tickets sell out fast. We took the first ferry of the day, which was wise, as the island fills up steadily with tourists. A self-guided tour through the former maximum security federal prison allows you to move at your own pace and get all the photos you like. A fascinating look at a self-contained island and penitentiary that was home not only to some of America’s most notorious criminals, like Al Capone and The Birdman of Alcatraz, but hundreds of guards, employees and their families.

Locked up at Alcatraz. 

The gift shop at the end of the tour meant books for the road for me, written by those who grew up on the island, detailing their quite normal lives in a quite unusual setting.

El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, a 3000ft climb from base to summit.

Yosemite National Park

Depending on road conditions, the drive to Yosemite takes around four hours from San Francisco, and the scenery is stunning.

We stayed in cabins at Thousand Trails Yosemite Lakes and felt very Bear Grylls as we roasted marshmallows for s’mores over an open fire. Although there was no foraging for bear droppings or whatever it is Grylls dines on, we still felt quite rustic.

Squirrel, chipmunk and deer sightings were big winners with our kids, though I did face a conundrum when a cute skunk sidled up to the campfire. How to move it on without alarm, thereby causing the release of its bespoke odour? Thankfully, a quiet “Shoo!” and soft clap of the hands did the trick.

California Tunnel Tree, Mariposa Grove, with a hole cut in 1895 to allow horses and buggies to pass through.

Emerging from Tunnel View into Yosemite National Park itself is breathtaking. Heavy snows last winter meant waterfalls were the fullest and most powerful they’d been in 50 years. We were fortunate to be there, as only weeks prior to our trip the park was closed due to flooding caused by the melting snow.

Mariposa Grove is worth the hike for the enormous sequoia, and a gentle ride on hired bikes to the Mirror Lake is also very manageable. Due to the change in the volume of the waterfalls, the Misty Trail hike up to Vernal Falls was more like the Torrential Trail, but quite spectacular and well worth the effort.

Pacific Coast Highway

On down the coast to the old fishing town of Monterey, then the exquisite artist colony of Carmel-by-the-Sea, and on to San Luis Obispo – home of the bubble-gum wall (exactly what it sounds like), and the one-of-a-kind Madonna Inn (nothing to do with either the virgin or the singer).

Carmel-by-the-Sea, an artist colony. 

Individually themed rooms with names like Caveman, Fabulous 50s, and Hearts and Flowers make the Inn a unique experience, and while we didn’t stay there this trip, a housekeeper was kind enough to let us take a peek. Definitely on our list of future accommodations.

Horse riding at Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo.

A leisurely meander across picturesque hills on horses from the Inn’s Trail Rides tested my courage. Snakes, spiders and the most nauseating of roller coasters I’m up for, but I am a little nervy around our equine friends. Thankfully I was gifted the docile Cherokee, to whom I softly whispered, “Please be nice!” all the way up the hill, and “Thank you for being nice!” all the way down.

Even if you’re not staying at the inn, you must grab a stool at the restaurant counter and order an American-sized slab of pink champagne cake and a soda. Look around the Barbie-pink explosion of finery that is the Steak House, and sneak into the world-famous men’s washroom with waterfall urinal – but best have a male friend check the coast is clear first!

World famous Steak House at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo.

Malibu and Los Angeles

Other highlights of a jam-packed trip were dinner on the sand at Paradise Cove in Malibu, watching Clueless by the pool and under the stars engulfed in the heady scent of jasmine at The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, dining on wiener schnitzel and cabbage in the Danish-style village of Solvang, Dodgers baseball games, and a mandatory marathon two days exploring Disneyland and California Adventure Park.

At a Dodgers baseball game.

Saying goodbye to California is always hard, so as we crammed our shopping into the extra fit-for-purpose bags we’d bought and shared one more fabulous Mexican meal at Pancho’s in Manhattan Beach, plans were already well under way for our next trip to The Golden State. 

The Danish-style village of Solvang.

California travel tips

• School summer holidays run from the beginning of June through August. Tourist spots fill up then. Yosemite in May was perfect, but by mid-June it was apparently packed.

• Prices often look good, but always consider the exchange rate. Most goods will cost more than the price tag indicates due to state taxes that don’t appear until you’re at the checkout.

• When you’ve finished dining, your server will “bring you the check”, and you pay while seated, rather than at the till. It’s not warmly received if you bypass this process.

• Hollywood Boulevard itself is fun and a bit crazy, but you might want to keep the kids close and avoid after dark.

• What we call entrées, Americans call starters. What we call mains, they call entrées. Knowing this can avoid accidental over-ordering of food.

• If you hanker for some simple food, try the slightly fancy supermarket Whole Foods, as they have a self-serve smorgasbord arrangement. It’s not the cheapest, but by week three I was grateful for some plain salads and vegetables.

• We love LA but locals don’t refer to June weather as “June gloom” for nothing. Be prepared you may have a few overcast days.

• If visiting Disneyland or California Adventure Park, it is worth the extra investment of the Lightning Lane Pass, as it significantly cuts down wait times for rides.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Cambodia calling

Liz French travelled to Cambodia and experienced firsthand the work of the
Tauranga-based Cambodia Charitable Trust, meeting her sponsored child and learning about the brutal history of this beautiful country.

Words Liz French

It’s an emotional moment when a 16-year-old high school student weeps with gratitude for the difference you are making in her life. Sear Sun Nary attends Ang Rokha Secondary School in the Takeo province south of Phnom Penh. My $60 per month, less than I spend on lattes, not only helps her but takes the pressure off her family, who live in a home smaller than my lounge, without running water or electricity. Dad farms their couple of cows, two pigs and a few chickens. Mum is a vendor, a precarious job at best. 

Our Cambodian experience began in Phnom Penh. We took a tuk-tuk from the airport to our city hotel, the first of many rides in these rickshaws with open sides pulled by a motorbike, or with the engine incorporated in the more sophisticated ones. We soon discovered that if your group has more than one tuk-tuk, it becomes a race. We shot through frenetic streets full of scooters and a surprising number of late-model cars, all vying for road space in the chaos. 

It’s a culture shock to arrive in a seething city, winterised bodies hitting mid-30s temperatures. The White Mansion, a former American Embassy residence, provided just the oasis of respite we needed, with large air-conditioned rooms, a cool pool and superb breakfasts, all for around NZ$100 a night. Mid-range accommodation is amazingly reasonable in Cambodia.  

The next morning, we hit the markets. The Toul Tompoung, or Russian Market, harks to its popularity with Russian expats in the 1980s. It’s a labyrinth of stalls and sensory sensations where freshly skinned poultry hangs near stands of cheap clothing, trinkets, machinery components and cosmetics. The Phsar Thum Thmei (meaning New Grand Market), better known as Central Market, was completed in 1937, and fans out from a high art deco dome. More of the same in a slightly more salubrious and orderly setting. 

The rarity of old people in Cambodia reflects the way Pol Pot virtually wiped out a generation. You cannot visit Phnom Penh without acknowledging this harrowing history. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (referred to by Khmer Rouge as S21) is a former school where, between 1975 and 1979, thousands endured torture and the exacting of false confessions before death. Rooms that held hundreds are now sparse spaces with subtle suggestions of the horror. Boards display photos of victims, one a commemoration of Kerry Hamill from Whakatane, who was plucked from his yacht off the coast and eventually executed. I felt I held my breath the whole time I was there. 

It was a privilege to visit schools with Denise Arnold, founder/director of the Cambodia Charitable Trust. An immeasurable difference has been made by asking what was needed and delivering just that, by improving teacher training, and supplying basic needs like libraries and toilets. Her (and by default our) welcome reminded me of the way Sir Edmund Hillary was revered for his work with the Sherpas.

I was particularly taken with the children, who seemed equally fascinated by a little white lady. I was mobbed by primary kids on break and trailed by preschoolers, all in pristine uniforms, when visiting one of their homes reinforced their subsistence existence. Travelling with someone who has been there many times meant interesting off-the-beaten-track places, like the homestay where we were hosted overnight and saw their thriving cotton weaving cottage industry.  

I was distressed by the proliferation of single-use plastic. But what can you do when the water is not fit to drink, when life in a third-world country is tough enough without worrying about the state of the planet? We even cleaned our teeth with bottled water. Plastic is strewn along the roads, and when we went to the top of a hill to see some ancient ruins and rural views, we climbed hundreds of steps littered with debris. It seemed that to be clear of rubble you had to be a regal or religious site. The Royal Palace grounds in Phnom Penh were a pristine vision; temples were tidy.

Our travels took us to Kampot, an attractive town with a sprinkling of French colonial architecture where an English woman owned our hotel, a cleverly converted cinema, and a Dutch expat ran our favourite riverfront restaurant; then to Sihanoukville on the coast where it was nicer to see the sea than the effects on the skyline of huge Chinese investment. It was a relief to hop on a plane to Siem Reap.

For many tourists, Cambodia is Siem Reap. They pour into the modern airport, take wide tree-lined streets into the bustling centre, stay in one of hundreds of hotels (ours was jaded but had a resort-quality pool), and eat cheaply in restaurants galore, many on Pub Street. Cocktails for a couple of dollars? Another one, please! Though it was quiet on the tourist front, we saw more Europeans here than the entire trip to date.

Angkor Wat is the drawcard. Angkor Wat means City of Temples and is said to be the largest religious monument in the world. This UNESCO World Heritage Site of over 160 hectares was built in the 12th Century, the work, our guide told us, of 6,000 men and 4,000 elephants. Endless wall etchings depict bygone battles, and restoration work is never ending. There are several areas, so it pays to have a local guide and a tuk-tuk. The clean, green jungle setting is a balm to the soul. 

I left my soul with the children of Cambodia, with their joy in education and the love and appreciation they showed for these visitors from a far land bringing them a brighter future. Nary, who I sponsor, wants to go to university and have a career. I will support her all the way. 

To sponsor a child through the Cambodia Charitable Trust, visit cctnz.org.nz

Asia Pacific’s culinary gems

If you’re planning your next holiday, there are plenty of destinations around the Asia Pacific region that are culinary gateways to a world of gastronomic adventures.

KINN Capsule Hotel, Singapore

Finding yourself scouring socials to find the best restaurants, cafes or markets to enjoy delicious food when planning for your travels? You’re not the only one! Savouring local cuisine is one of the many ways to immerse yourself in the destination’s culture. In fact, Booking.com’s Travel Confidence Index for 2023 revealed 63 percent of Kiwi travellers said Food and Dining was top of mind for their next travel agenda.*

From the hidden hole-in-the-wall joints of Japan to the bustling night markets of Taiwan, embark on a mouthwatering adventure that is sure to leave your tastebuds dancing with delight. While you’re out and about indulging in local cuisines, you can rest your food-filled bellies at some of the best accommodations recommended by Booking.com — rest assured that your stay will be as remarkable as your dining experiences.

Zagame’s House

Melbourne, Australia

Spanning across various suburbs, travellers can find themselves pampered with choice when strolling down Melbourne’s iconic Lygon Street. Here travellers can find a diverse culinary offering from restaurants boasting a 400 cheese pizza to fiery ramen, depending on which side of the street you’re on.

Where to stay: Located in the heart of historic Carlton, Zagame’s House is a labour of love from hotelier brothers Victor and Robert Zagame. This 97-room hotel showcases the best of modern interior design, luxurious amenities, and sustainable architecture. From the art to the menu, every inch of Zagame’s House is designed to inspire you.

Beauty Avenue Inn

Kaohsiung, Taiwan

Step into a vibrant tapestry of flavours, colours and cultural experiences at Taiwan’s Liuhe Night Market, nestled in the heart of the city of Kaohsiung. This bustling market plays host to a multitude of food stalls offering Taiwan’s most tantalising street food. From fresh seafood delicacies to the delectable bubble tea that Taiwan is renowned for, each bite tells a story you’ll be delighted to partake in.

Where to stay: Beauty Avenue Inn is a short walk from Liuhe Night Market and a short drive from other famous attractions including the Kaohsiung Museum of History and National Science and Technology Museum. Regardless if you’re travelling solo or in a large group, this boutique hotel has a range of rooms to accommodate guests.

Tokyo, Japan

Discover a taste of Japanese comfort food at Homemade Ramen Muginae. Tucked away in the bustling streets of Tokyo, this unassuming hole-in-the-wall store exudes an authentic charm — but don’t be fooled by its humble exterior for the wait for a seat could take up to two hours!

Luckily, the restaurant takes daily reservations starting at 9am, leaving travellers plenty of time to explore the surrounding streets. With one third (33 percent) of Kiwi travellers wanting to immerse themselves in local culture when travelling, tasting authentic cuisine at critically-acclaimed restaurants like this is the way to go.

Where to stay: JR-East Hotel Mets Omori is ideal for those who spend most of their days out and about in the city streets as it’s at the centrepoint of various attractions. The hotel is an eight-minute walk from Homemade Ramen Muginae and is near well-known attractions such as the Atre Omori Shopping Mall and a myriad of shrines such as the Omori Sanno Hie Shrine, Iwai Jinja Shrine and Enno-ji Temple.

Hong Kong

Prepare to be amazed by the culinary excellence of Cheung Hing Kee, a Michelin-recommended street food destination located in the lively streets of Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.

Renowned for their Shanghai pan-fried buns, this eatery is a testament to the exceptional gastronomy Hong Kong boasts. Indulge in equally-mouthwatering local dishes including the siu mai and har gow as Cheung Hing Kee presents a symphony of flavours that is sure to capture the true essence of Hong Kong’s street food scene.

Where to stay: If you’re looking for a fancier stay, the Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong boasts seven dining options, including a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant, tapas bar and cocktail lounge for foodies to continue their culinary crusade. The refined Asian-influenced decor blends seamlessly with richly coloured furnishings amid captivating views of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong’s iconic skyline. The hotel enjoys a strategic location in the dynamic Tsim Sha Tsui neighbourhood, ideally situated for urban discoveries in Hong Kong’s shopping and entertainment district.

KINN Capsule Hotel

Singapore

Also ranked amongst the Top 10 most searched international destinations by Kiwis this winter season**, bustling Singapore is renowned for its street food culture. A must-not-miss culinary checkpoint is the iconic Maxwell Food Centre, which promises an array of rich flavours and aromas. Situated in the heart of Chinatown, this hawker centre is a culinary melting pot — whether you’re craving a traditional serving of laksa, a beloved national dish of Hainanese chicken rice or looking to beat the heat with a refreshing bowl of ice kacang, options here are plentiful and diverse.

Where to stay: You’ll have a great night’s rest in the spacious yet cosy capsule KINN Capsule Hotel. Boasting a total of 72 capsules designed for your comfort and privacy, this boutique capsule hotel is located in the heart of Singapore, a short distance from Chinatown, the Singapore River and National Gallery as well as a 10-minute walk from Maxwell Food Centre. It features a communal lounge and sun terrace, perfect for socialising on your travels.

*Methodology: Research commissioned by Booking.com and independently conducted by Milieu Insight among a sample of 8,800 respondents across 11 countries and territories across APAC (including 800 from New Zealand).

**Methodology: this report looks at search sessions in April (between 2023-04-03 and 2023-04-16) with check-in dates between July and August (2023-07-01 and 2023-08-31). For comparison figures we looked at search sessions between the same time period last year (2022-04-04 and 2022-04-17, with check-in dates between 2022-07-01 and 2022-08-31).

Business meets bliss

A trip to Sydney gives the opportunity for some work-life balance.

Words Jenny Rudd

Why bother flying somewhere fun if you aren’t going to give yourself the time to enjoy it? This year I’ve been back and forth to Australia for work, and last time I went to Sydney, instead of cramming everything into a couple of days and whizzing back home, I extended the trip and turned it into a wee holiday for one. It was just the right blend of career and care. 

A top-rated apartment in the CBD was found on booking.com, made all the more luxurious as they organised and paid for a taxi on arrival. I did nothing. A message popped up on my booking.com app as soon as I’d landed, telling me where to meet the driver. A great start to the week.

A CITY WALK

I’d been sitting in a plane for many hours, so fresh air and leg stretching were first on the list. An easy loop started at Hyde Park with giant fig trees and the Archibald Fountain, a tribute to the Franco-Australian relationship. You can walk straight over to the Botanical Gardens, and follow the water’s edge round to the money shot - the Sydney Opera House. The garden holds deep cultural significance as it’s situated on the traditional lands of the Cadigal people. You can learn about Aboriginal heritage with artwork, and interactive displays explain indigenous plant uses and the connection between Aboriginal communities and the land. Past the Opera House, I settled in for the French menu at Whalebridge. Warm evening light, a view of the bridge over the harbour and rippling water. I was ready for work the next day.

BONDI

It’s oh so easy to travel in Sydney. I just tapped my Visa card on and off trains, buses and ferries. Staying by Town Hall station made everywhere seem like a few minutes away. I had a meeting in Bondi, so we met at Blackwood Cafe. Bright pink tuna crudo eaten in the sunshine and talking to ambitious founders of a business bound for the States was followed by a walk round the iconic beach. I’d stuffed my bikini in my handbag so got happily smashed about in the waves before heading back to the CBD.

LIGHT UP

I’m not much of a party girl these days, but I do love to walk around cities at night. Each year Sydney’s buildings and skies light up with their Vivid Festival in May. Hundreds of drones take to the skies and videos of artworks cover landmark buildings. Follow the light walk from Circular Quay and grab snacks en route.

BARANGAROO

Everyone here likes to have early meetings, which has been perfect as I get the rest of the day to explore. The morning was spent with Startmate, one of Australia and New Zealand's best-known tech startup accelerators in the Stripe offices at the incredibly hip WeWork building. The whole area, Barangaroo, has been recently redeveloped. The land is named after an influential Aboriginal woman from the Eora Nation. Gleaming buildings line the water, it’s a pretty magnificent working environment. The development has turned an inaccessible industrial area into a waterfront for everyone to enjoy, and linked up some of the central Sydney points with the Wulugul (kingfish) Walk.

SHELLY BEACH

Take the ferry from Circular Quay to Manly Beach and walk the picturesque pathway cut into the cliffs round to Shelly Beach. A towel, snorkel, mask and a good book are all you’ll need to while away a good part of the day. There’s a lovely beachside restaurant called the Boat House which doesn’t take bookings. And a huge reef round the headland at the end of the beach, which is where your mask and snorkel comes in handy. If you’re hot on the walk back to Manly to catch the ferry, stop off at Cabbage Tree Bay and have a quick dip off the rocks.

INDOOR WATERFALL

Okay, I think this is my favourite thing in Sydney, and I found it by accident walking through Town Hall shopping centre to get to the train. An actual waterfall covering an entire wall in Eternity Café. I went there every day. It’s got a very kitsch vibe. I was a big fan of the smoothie bowls and salads. 

Top tips for solo travel in Sydney

Use booking.com app for the best one-bedroom apartments in the CBD.

Eat outside peak restaurant hours to get the best seats in town.

Walk everywhere! You’re on your own schedule.

booking.com

Island time

There’s no need for a long-haul flight to escape to paradise when, only a few hours away, the tropical haven that is Rarotonga awaits you.

Words Cameron Scott

Just three-and-a-half hours’ flight time from New Zealand, the lush and mountainous tropical island of Rarotonga offers the perfect escape for jaded Kiwis. Whether you’re travelling with the family, wanting a romantic holiday for two, or even an idyllic wedding venue, Rarotonga has something for everyone. Relax on a white sand beach beside a stunning turquoise lagoon, enjoy the superb local food and choose from a huge range of activities for people of all ages. When it’s time to leave, you’re sure to be relaxed and rejuvenated.

STAY

MANUIA BEACH RESORT

If you’re looking for the perfect resort to relax, and escape children under the age of 16, Manuia Beach Resort, beside the beach in Arorangi on the sunset side of the island, is a private and idyllic retreat. Accommodation is island-style, featuring comfortable coconut thatched suites complete with air conditioning and beach or garden views. Enjoy the beautiful infinity pool area and relax under a sun umbrella on a poolside lounger with a delicious tropical cocktail served by friendly local staff. Or head for the glorious white sand beach just a few metres away, and take a cooling dip in the inviting, picture-perfect lagoon. The resort is also home to

On the Beach Bar and Restaurant.

manuia.co.ck

EDGEWATER RESORT

Occupying 2.4ha of lush tropical beachside grounds on Rarotonga’s western coast, the family-friendly Edgewater Resort & Spa is five minutes’ drive from Rarotonga International Airport and 4.9km from Avarua township. A Rarotonga icon, the Edgewater has an outdoor swimming pool, two restaurants, a bar and free parking, and also features excellent cultural shows. Rooms have tropical-style décor and rattan furnishings and include balconies with beach or garden views. Accommodation options include three-bedroom garden or beach villas, perfect for families. Edgewater’s spa offers relaxing surrounds where guests can enjoy massages and a range of beauty treatments.

Edgewater.co.ck

TE MANAVA LUXURY VILLAS & SPA

Marketed as “something a little more secluded and off the beaten track,” the 5-star Te Manava Luxury Villas and Spa’s luxury accommodation comes in the form of large, open-plan villas located on the beautiful and tranquil lagoon beachfront. Each villa has its own private plunge pool and tropical gardens. The premium-priced beachside villas enjoy magnificent views over picturesque Muri Lagoon. With one, two or three bedrooms, the villas are perfect for families or couples on a romantic escape. Services include access to babysitters, spas and beauty packages, as well as gourmet dining at the resort restaurant. Nearby Muri village has a range of shops and restaurants with a strong island vibe, all within walking distance. temanava.com

PLAY

SNORKEL WITH TURTLES

“The most amazing experience I’ve ever had.” That was the comment from former Cook Islands resident Karen Scott of Tauranga after she took part in a turtle swimming experience with Snorkel Cook Islands earlier
this year. The two-hour tours take place in Avaavaroa Passage at Vaimaanga Beach under the close supervision of highly-experienced and friendly locals, including former Mount Maunganui lifeguard Josh Utanga. The tour includes snorkelling equipment (snorkel, mask, reef shoes and fins), a locker to store personal belongings, parking, sunscreen, and a refreshing snack of delicious island fruits when you get back to shore.

snorkelcookislands.com

SUNDAY CHURCH

On Sundays, most work on Rarotonga comes to a stop. Avarua’s shops are closed, and locals dress in their best clothing and head for church in the morning. Even if you’re not a believer, join them for an uplifting experience you won’t forget. The singing is beautiful and joyous and you’ll receive a genuine and friendly welcome. At some of the historic Cook Islands Christian Churches, you might even be invited to share morning tea in the church hall. Churches of almost every denomination are spread around the island, so take your pick. For a more intimate experience, the small St Mary’s Catholic Church beside the lagoon in Arorangi village is highly recommended.

EAT

PUNANGA NUI 

The best place to observe local life and experience Cook Islands culture is at the Punanga Nui Market on the lagoon side of the main township of Avarua, opposite the Bond Store. Eagerly awaited each week by locals and tourists alike, the Punanga Nui bursts into life from 8am on Saturdays, with a huge array of shops and stalls selling everything from fresh island produce and meals, to arts and crafts, pearl jewellery and colourful
island style clothing. There’s something here for everyone, with the bonus of cultural performances on the market’s main stage. There’s plenty of parking on the lagoon side of the site, but it pays to be there early.

EXPLORE THE OUTER ISLANDS

Rarotonga International Airport is the base for Air Rarotonga, set to celebrateits 45th anniversary next year. “Air Raro” as it’s fondly known, flies to nine domestic Cook Islands in the Northern and Southern Groups. It also flies to Papeete in Tahiti on the airline’s first international scheduled service which started this year. If you want to visit the outer islands in style, Air Rarotonga also operates a fast Cessna executive jet that can get you there in short order. Many visitors opt to visit the laid-back and picturesque island of Aitutaki, to the north, and you can book all the way there on an Air New Zealand itinerary.

airraro.com

SOUL CAFÉ & BARBER SHOP

The funky Soul Café is located in Maraerenga on the Tupapa side of Avarua, not far from the Cook Islands News office. As well as serving excellent coffees, Soul Café offers the opportunity to build your own sandwiches with the freshest of ingredients, washed down with a selection of fresh fruit smoothies. There’s also a tempting brunch menu which makes the most of island produce such as rukao (taro leaves cooked in coconut cream) in innovative ways. The Eggs Benedict served with yellowfin tuna comes highly recommended. The café is owned by long-time friends Caleb Tatuava and Vou Williams who also operate the barbershop next door.  

soulcafeck

THE MOORING

Enjoy the freshest of local fish and delicious sandwiches, salads and sauces at the Mooring Fish Café in Muri. This casual and friendly dining establishment has won numerous awards for its fish meals, salads and sandwiches starring local game fish such as wahoo, tuna, mahimahi and marlin, caught fresh daily by fishermen operating from nearby Avana Harbour. Lunch on a fish sandwich on fresh Turkish bread washed down with refreshing coconut juice. Mains include “Fresh off the Boat” (crumbed mahimahi with chips and salad), tuna tacos with spicy slaw and the freshest fish and chips you’ve ever tasted. Opposite the Muri Night Market.

themooringfishcaferaro.com

NAUTILUS RESORT RESTAURANT

Muri’s luxurious Nautilus Resort offers several dining options with views over
a beautiful infinity pool, white sand beaches or the turquoise waters of the lagoon.
In the main dining area, the award-winning beachfront Nautilus Restaurant offers
a Polynesian inspired dining experience.
You can also enjoy dining on the beachside patio – or resort staff will happily organise
a private dinner. The food is described as Pacific Rim- European fusion, using local seasonal ingredients freshly picked from
the resort’s vegetable garden, and there’s
an emphasis on fresh fish dishes featuring local game fish.

nautilusresortrarotonga.com

Chase the sun

Say goodbye to the winter chill. The Cook Islands heat is calling

Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa

As the days get chillier and we cosy up by the fire in our winter woolies, it can be difficult not to daydream about sun kissed beaches and warm summer breezes. Blessed with endless days of glowing sunshine and balmy temperatures, travelling to the Cook Islands is a sizzling temptation for Kiwis this winter as summer is just a short flight away! 

 If you’ve caught the case of the winter blues and are in need of an uplift, research from Booking.com reveals that getting away on holiday is said to be the form of self-care in 2022 (more so than daily exercise or mindful meditation!) with over three-quarters of people (79%) affirming that travel helps their mental and emotional wellbeing more than other forms of rest and relaxation. Here are Booking.com’s top Rarotonga destinations for the ultimate tropical getaway.

Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa is a beachfront paradise for travellers wanting to live their summer day dream. Overlooking the beautiful Muri Lagoon, these luxury villas offer a truly 5-star experience with a private pool and patio. Guests can make the most of the island life with free use of kayaks, so they can spend their days on the glowing blue water taking in their surroundings. The Te Manava Spa offers relaxing therapies including massages and pedicures, so travellers can really unwind and recharge at the end of their holiday. Furthermore, these villas are ideal for the eco-conscious traveller as they’re a Booking.com Travel Sustainable property.

Crystal Blue Lagoon Villas

Inspired by the turquoise water of Muri Lagoon, Crystal Blue Lagoon boasts stylish modern villas in an idyllic beachfront location. This tranquil retreat features an infinity pool with breath-taking sea views, where guests can truly feel like they’re in paradise. 

Guests are able to enjoy free use of snorkelling gear, so they can hop from pool to lagoon and explore all of the beautiful reefs nearby.  These self-contained villas offer guests privacy, with all of the required facilities to ensure they have everything they need for their stay. 

Ocean Spray Villas

The beachfront Ocean Spray Villa offers incredible panoramic views of the lagoon, beach and the Pacific Ocean, so Kiwis will be able to truly immerse themselves in the ‘beach bum’ life while they chase that summer feeling. The spacious, homely rooms have an almost ‘Bach’ like vibe, so Kiwis will feel right at home when they’re chasing more of those summer days. 

Muri Beachcomber

Situated right on the beach, Muri Beachcomber offers direct access to Muri Beach and its extraordinary white sand. The crystal clear water looks like something off of a postcard, guaranteeing travellers a real slice of paradise! 

Guests are given free access to kayaks and paddle boards, meaning they’re able to make the most of the island lifestyle and cruise over the stunning ocean waters all day long. Whether you want to swim in the outdoor pool, snorkel in the lagoon just metres from the property, or book in scuba diving and sailing, guests can be sure they won’t find themselves bored here.