Making a splash

A popular craft brewery and eatery has just expanded
into Ōmokoroa. Karl Puschmann checks it out.

Photos Jahl Marshall

There’s a new bar and eatery that’s been making quite a splash in the seaside village and holiday hotspot of Ōmokoroa. It may have only opened its doors in December but local craft beer enthusiasts and dumpling connoisseurs have been quick to jump into The Rising Tide.

It’s fair to say its reputation preceded it. Ōmokoroa’s Rising Tide is the first expansion for the incredibly popular Mount Maunganui institution of the same name that’s been brewing and serving award-winning craft beers since 2016. 

But it’s not just the flavourful and distinctive range of its beer brand Mount Brewing Co., the juicy burgers or famous dumplings, the sun-drenched deck that overlooks the Soper Reserve or the relaxed and welcoming atmosphere that’s made it a favourite in the Bay. 

Rather, it’s the combination of all of those things along with a much more intangible quality; character. This is especially important to craft beer bars because craft beer lives or dies on its character. That's its whole thing. 

“It's been a lot of time planning it all out. We wanted to replicate the Mount and have the same atmosphere,” Ellie Kirk, the general manager of both branches of the Rising Tide, tells me. 

We’re sitting out on the bar’s spacious deck in Ōmokoroa, enjoying a couple of their signature Golden Hour hazy’s in the warmth of the midday sun. 

“You can sit more than 150 people here, easy,” she smiles, looking around at the breezy space, before detailing plans for a large, fixed, all-weather marquee that will offer shelter from the elements and allow the Rising Tide’s popular live music programme to kick off in this new location. 

“We wanted to duplicate what we have at the Mount and bring it to Ōmokoroa because it works so well there,” she says. “There's nothing like this around here.”

Getting here has paradoxically been an extremely long journey and also something of a rush. The idea for a new Rising Tide began formulating around three or four years ago, with Pāpāmoa being the chosen location. But then Covid struck, slamming the brakes on those plans. A couple of years later, when the worst of it was over, the Pāpāmoa site that’d been earmarked was no longer available. Undeterred, scouting for a new location began. 

“It was so funny. Last May the owners just turned around to me one day and said, ‘Hey, we’re going to open up in Ōmokoroa. I was like, ‘What? This year?’” Ellie laughs, thinking back. “I said, ‘Okay, let’s go for it’.”

She came out to see the new location for the first time, a mere seven months before the planned opening.  

“It was so different to how it is now,” she says. “I couldn't envision it. In my head, I was like, This isn't The Rising Tide’.” 

The fixtures were all wrong, there was no room for a brewery (something that’d been part of their Pāpāmoa plans) and the vibe just wasn’t there. But the biggest offence was a giant, floor-to-ceiling mirror right behind the bar. Ellie says, that was the first thing that had to go. 

“We wanted the same wall as the Mount. Visually, the taps are a big thing, because we are a craft beer bar,” she says. “It’s huge.”

Once the Rising Tide’s signature white tiles and the long row of beer taps went in, Ellie says the bar began to feel more like home. There are a whopping 30 taps to select from, including taps for Mount Brewing Co.’s special, limited-edition beers and ciders.

“Every limited release we’ll have here. I told them, ‘Don’t leave Ōmokoroa out!’,” she laughs. “Rising Tide in the Mount gets allocated three kegs and we get one keg. So once it’s gone, it's gone. We’re actually tapping on two new beers today.”

Great beer? Check. Cool vibe? Check. But there’s one other thing Rising Tide is known for, its food. Particularly the dumplings from their in-house kitchen, Johney’s Dumpling House. You can go ahead and put a big ol’ check next to that as well.

“There’s a lot of foodie people here,” Ellie says. “The quality of food, the service standards, the presentation are all exactly the same. That's a big thing for us here.”

Then she smiles and says something that will come as a huge relief during the current cost of living crises.

“And the deals are the same! We have the cheap beer, burger and fries deal on a Wednesday, you can come and get dumplings really cheap with a beer every Thursday.”

It’s been a lot of work, and a long time coming, but all the things people love about the original Rising Tide have successfully washed up in Ōmokoroa. 

We’ve been sitting out enjoying the deck for about an hour while people have trickled in, eager to take advantage of the hot sun and a cool lunchtime meal and drink deal, and I can’t help but feel tempted to get another pint myself. 

therisingtidemt.com/omokoroa

The pursuit of hoppiness

Only available once a year in extremely limited quantities,
Mount Brewing Co.'s Fresh Hops beer won't last long. So hop to it.

Words Karl Puschmann / Photos Ben Parry

Forget Christmas. For beer connoisseurs, March is the most exciting time of the year. That’s because down in the South Island a plant called Humulus lupulus has just blossomed and its flowers harvested.

These flowers are hops, and hops are the most crucial ingredient in beer. 

Hops are what makes beer, well, beer. They give the beer its bitterness and, depending on quantity, source location, characteristics and amount used in the brewing process, also give the drink its identifiable flavours and aromas. Be that fruity overtones, citrus bite or an indefinable “wow” factor.

By necessity, most of the beer we drink throughout the year is brewed with hops pellets. These compressed pellets stay fresher for longer. But this month, when hops season begins, brew masters around the country will be brewing a batch or two with vine-fresh hops.  

Pawel Lewandowski, the head brewer at Mount Brewing Co., was one of the lucky brewers who was able to secure an order of the highly-desirable fresh hops. 

“It's once a year only. It's quite exciting,” he smiles as he tells UNO about the plan he’s brewed up for these precious fresh hops. “This season we’ll be brewing fresh hop IPA. A filtered and unfiltered version of the same beer.”

You might know “unfiltered beer” by its more popular name of “hazy”. So while the recipe will be the same, the differing brewing process ensures the two IPAs will taste unique from each other. That, Pawel explains, is the point.

“We want to showcase what filtering does to the beer, let people experience the difference and
let them choose what they prefer.”

Fittingly, for such a special ingredient, Pawel’s crafting a whole new recipe. When pressed for detail he says it will have the flavours and aroma of passionfruit and grapefruit.

“This year we're using specifically only  the Nectaron Hops variety, and hoping our drinkers will be able to identify flavours that this specific hop provides.”

Using fresh hops ensures the beer will be much bolder in taste, he explains, with a super fruit-forward aroma. 

“Everybody's excited. The smell you experience in the brewery is like going to the perfume shop, basically,” he laughs. 

Part of what makes fresh hop season so exciting is that even with the most careful forward planning and recipe refinement there’s no way to predict how the beer is actually going to taste.

“You can make assumptions but there’s science and chaos in the brewing process,” he says. “So you never know until you have your first pint in your hand. Then you can say, 'Okay, we did a good job'.”

Having been at Mount Brewing Co for around eight years, and head brewer for four, and having come up with the recipes for their ever-popular Coffee Stout and much-loved Crazy Hazy, Pawel’s confident that he can do just as good a job when he gets his hands on the fresh hops. 

They’ll be getting multiple plane loads with which to brew but, because fresh crop beer requires much more hops per batch than using pellets, the 180 kilos of hops being rushed in will only make two batches of beer. 

“We’re going to get around 1200 litres per batch,” he says. “So it's a very limited release.”

Pawel says the two fresh hop IPAs will be on tap at the Rising Tide around the third week of April 2023, with a very small quantity escaping out the door in cans to land in select supermarkets and bottle stores. But, if past seasons are anything to go by, you’ll need to hop down to Rising Tide fairly quickly if you hope to get a taste of the fresh hops hype for yourself.

“I don't think it’s going to last long because fresh hop beers are quite popular. Last year, it lasted maybe two to three weeks on the taps,” he says. “It will probably be the same scenario this season.”

His excitement about brewing with fresh hops is infectious. But how fresh, exactly, are we talking here? 

“We're going to use hops that have been harvested on the same day. They're going to be flown up from the South Island from the farm right here to Mount Maunganui. We're going to pick it up from the airport and make the beer on the same day. It will be six or seven hours after the harvest. So straight into it.”

Then with a wide grin, he says, “You can't get any fresher than that!” 

mountbrewingco.com 

Get crafty

If your beer knowledge is a little cloudy, then
Mount Brewing Co’s head brewer Pawel Lewandowski is the perfect can-noisseur to clarify the common craft beer varieties.

 Photo + Styling Roz McIntosh

XPA

Golden Hour Hazy XPA 4.7%

Hazy IPA is a unique bond created between malt, hops and yeast and like the name implies it has a cloudy appearance. Golden Hour – Hazy XPA has lower than regular IPA alcohol content, much drier body yet a fruity, juicy hoppy hit (think passionfruit, green pineapple, lime with a touch of coconut) delivered by careful selection of American and New Zealand hops, malts and yeast. 

APA

Mermaid's Mirth 6%

American pale ale replaces traditional English hops with modern bold, citrus, tropical, pine-like American varieties. APA continues to evolve as breweries experiment with different local ingredients. It's one of the most food-friendly beers that goes very well with meat and cheese. We brew our clean, crisp, medium-bodied Mermaid's Mirth only with American hops.

Pilsner

Mountie 5.2%

All pilsners are lagers, but not all lagers are pilsners. Pilsner is always bright in colour, should be more bitter and hoppy than lager yet smoother with more malt characteristics than IPA. Mountie is brewed with four different New Zealand hops, giving it a more grassy, citrusy and bitter flavour than lager, which makes this pilsner a more complex drinking experience.

NZ IPA

Sea Beast 6%

Indian Pale Ale originated in England for shipping to the British colonies in India in the 18th century. It was pale only compared to the usual darker brews of the day, quite hoppy and had a higher alcohol content (a great preservative for the long trip to India). A good example of a modern IPA is our Sea Beast. It's brewed using only Kiwi hops, giving it a gooseberry, citrusy, floral and piney flavour. It's bitter and balanced with arich malt character.  

New England IPA

Crazy Hazy Daze 6.4%

A go-to for lovers of beer in its prime – unfined and unfiltered. Our New England IPA, where bitterness
along with big hoppiness
is balanced with a fuller and rich body, is packed with Citra, Amarillo and Nelson Sauvin hops used only in the whirlpool and dry hop addition, bringing a mango, passionfruit, zesty-like flavour and aroma. 

Lager

Relax it's only a lager 4%

This type of beer tends to be less hoppy than pilsner, easier to drink in bigger quantities and, like Relax, it should be clean, crisp and refreshing. A lager uses simpler ingredients so it's far more difficult to brew nice, clean lager that is free from off flavours — because all the mistakes occurred during the brewing process are much harder to cover, which is why we use the best brewing equipment and processes. 

IG: mountbrewingco.brewery

mountbrewingco.com 

Perfect match

These scintillating summer pours from Mount Brewing Co. will tantalise your tastebuds and keep you cool on the hot, sunny days to come. Find your favourite and match with our delicious meal suggestions.

Words Hayley Barnett / Photo Emma Galloway

Feijoa GIN & TONIC - Tempting tangy tipple

You can’t go past the sweet-yet-tart taste of the country’s favourite seasonal fruit, the humble feijoa. Meal match with your favourite blue cheese and a drizzle of honey for a complementary kick.

Peach & Apricot GIN & SODA - Fresh and delicate

Two summer stone fruits, muddled with gin and soda, this mix creates a drink that’s perfect for the beach and beyond. When dining at home match with the spicy heat of a rogan josh.

Pink GIN & TONIC - Charm in a can

Crisp premium gin and tonic comes blended with juicy red raspberries, to give it a taste to die for. Pair with lamb kebabs cooked in a berry marinade and, voilà, you have your barbecue menu sorted.

Classic APPLE CIDER - Cool, timeless classic

Traditionally made apple cider is given a makeover by blending it with fresh and juicy apples. Not too sweet, not too dry, apple cider is perfectly matched with a roast pork fillet salad.

Dark n’ Stormy CIDER - Spice up your life

Real ginger, molasses and spices make up this unique and delicious cider. With a medium-sweet cider base, the aroma is familiar, but really kicks off when paired with a spiced ginger pud. 

Strawberry & Lime CIDER - Here comes the sun

Cool down with a fruity thirst-quenching cider. Strawberry and zesty lime offer a medium sweetness and tart finish when matched with a savoury strawberry salad. 

Tart Rhubarb Cider - Sharp yet refreshing

Perfect for spring, this distinctive cider will hit the spot with rhubarb lovers. It’s fun, it’s elegant and it’s particularly delightful when paired with a creamy carbonara.

mountbrewingco.com

The Art of Crafts

Mount Brewing Co. gets creative in the craft beer department

Words Nicky Adams / Images Cam Neate + Untitled Studio

Twenty years ago, if you said craft beer, the mental picture would probably involve a huge drinking vessel and a handlebar moustache. Fast forward and the rest of the freethinking beer drinking world has wised up to the delights of a craft beer.

Pawel, Head Brewer at Mount Brewing Co. has been brewing beer for over ten years, and when he chats about his path, its’ clear he has followed his passion. Polish by birth, growing up he spent time in Belgium, where an appreciation of craft beer is a given. As a student studying economy and finance, while his friends were spending their money partying, he was chasing beer festivals around Europe. “At this time the craft beer revolution had started in Poland, but it was expensive for a student. To drink good beer, I started making my own.” A student exchange year in northern Mexico fired his passion further – “I met a lot of home brewers – this area is very influenced by the United States, and the US is on the top of the craft industry. That completely opened my mind. They have 7,000 breweries there. They’re pushing the boundaries and that’s a huge inspiration for the rest of the world.”  More travel ultimately led back to Poland to finish his Masters, before heading for Indonesia: “I left there super thirsty and dry” bound for New Zealand, where he had already secured a job with Mount Brewing Co.

Six years later, and Pawel leads the team of Leonie (who hails from Germany), Tom from the UK and American, Drew. “I’m surrounded by amazing people – my team are quite easy-going guys, and that’s what makes me happy.  I want to believe the craft industry is a mix of science, art, and a little bit of chaos.” The advantage, Pawel says, of being a small brewery is that “we’re experimenting quite a lot. We have a lot of freedom for creativity. Here we have four brewers with different backgrounds and experiences, so all of us have an individual sense of taste; for me the industry is about people. When I’m drinking, I can pick the personality behind the beer.” His own signature styles? – “I like dark beers, hoppy, fruit addition, barrel aged beers. I combine different ingredients to create nice balance – and I like to shock with flavours. Leonie mixes herbs and flowers, Tom has a European style, our American brewer likes brown ales.”

With 60 beers on the menu plus seasonal additions (not forgetting their ciders and gins brewed under sister company MBC) there is constant innovation here at the brewery. Pawel is excited about the upcoming Brewers Guild Award, and I wonder what else drives him. “It’s an evolving industry, you must learn something every day to be on top of the market. It’s very challenging as well as demanding, but it gives me a lot of satisfaction when I see people enjoying my beer.”  So, where to next for Mount Brewing? “We want to push the boundaries. There’s a huge space to explore in rich flavourful beers and expand the barrel aged beers. Our goal is to be available in any place in New Zealand – supermarkets and bars. We want to be known for good quality beers.” 

Quick Fire Q & A

If you’re not drinking beer, what else?

Wine –a foresty, berry Shiraz or buttery Chardonnay chased with Oysters.

What is something people wouldn’t know about brewing beer?

90% of the job is basically cleaning!

Your favourite beer?

Golden Hour, Mermaids or Crazy Hazy for a catch up with friends – something dark for dinner. Like a child, I can’t pick a favourite.

Most popular brews?

Currently the Hazys (an unprocessed, unfiltered beer) which is a beautiful creation between hops, yeast and malts.

Special memory?

My first beer I made here for a coffee festival won a medal on the Brewer’s Guild Award.

Inspiration?

My travel experiences

Mountbrewingco.com

Better together

WORDS TALIA WALDEGRAVE PHOTOS TRACIE HEASMAN

It's unusually cold at the Rising Tide today. Probably because most of one wall and part of the roof is missing. But it’s for a good cause. They’re making room for beer. Better beer.

I'm here to meet a bunch of brewers and brewers are busy people, but luckily, some of them are free to speak to me.

I wrote about the launch of Rising Tide in the spring issue in 2016. The bar is adjacent to (and owned by) Mount Brew Co on Newton Street in The Mount. I’m back so soon because exciting things are happening. Recently, the glorious outdoor decking was extended. This prime spot is always heaving with Friday post-work revellers and keen Sunday sessioners, not to mention the throngs of beer enthusiasts every other day of the week. The new deck didn't need justification, but there's a really good one. Glenn and Virginia Meikle of Mount Brew Co are now sharing their digs with Funk Estate; a brewery started by three guys, Dylan Shearer, Jordan Evison and Shigeo Takagi (Shiggy). 

THE STORY

While studying in Wellington, Dylan, Jordan and Shiggy formed a bond over beer. They started brewing at home and before long had their very own brewing company. They’ve been brewing in Auckland since 2015 and now they’re headed our way. 

At my bar leaner today are Rising Tide owners Glenn and Virginia, along with two thirds of Funk Estate, Dylan and Jordan.

I try to understand why two competitors are joining forces to brew their beers under one roof.

G: Craft brewing isn’t a competition. We are in it for the greater good. It’s about making better beer.

Locally born and bred, Jordan has long-running connections with Glenn and his family. 

G: Jordan and I were catching up over a cold beer. I was moaning about our out-of-date equipment.

J: I was moaning about our premises in Auckland. We were looking for a new place to brew.

Mount Brewing Co. had the perfect venue in a killer spot, and Funk Estate had the best 'stainless' (brewery lingo for equipment), including a canning machine. Competition or not, it was a no brainer. Cans of beer are big. Their popularity is growing over glass bottles. Don't be surprised if you see some pretty inventive labels cropping up in the next year from these two breweries.

J: I suggested we move production down here and co-share the space at Mount Brew Co and its pub, The Rising Tide.

Funk Estate began in beer Mecca, Wellington in 2012. Shiggy worked at underground icon Hashigo Zake. Jordan and Dylan drank there and beer bromance ensued. 

Funk Estate have been given a moniker by their fans, the ‘rebels of the craft beer industry.’

D. Haha I’m not sure about that, but it’s flattering! Basically, we make beer we like to drink. Primarily hop-forward beers. Our personal favs are our sour beers like Jungle Boogie Blood Orange Sour.

For Jordan, the move to the Bay is a bit of a homecoming. For Shiggy and Dylan, it’s a chance to settle down somewhere new and, surprise surprise, they’re already falling for the lifestyle. 

D. Walking into an already established bar and outlet is beneficial and it’s what we've always wanted. Being able to slot right into this set-up is fantastic.”

Last year I asked what Mount Brewing C. had planned for the future. Glenn was hoping for one more kettle. Now has a whole new brewery. I mention this to him and he smiles, shaking his head in disbelief. For him, it’s all about the beer and constantly striving to make it better. 

G. You can’t beat fresh beer and the biggest problem with flagons is that it loses its freshness quickly. These guys have brought down state of the art canning equipment so now we can produce stubbies and cans with a much longer shelf life. We are making better beer than ever.

In time for summer, that sunny deck just got even better, with an outdoor bar offering ten additional taps to the existing 29 inside.

I broach the subject of a special release beer mash-up between the two labels. Dylan is quick to reply - I'm 100% sure it'll happen one day.