PLAY, Food & Drink Hayley Barnett PLAY, Food & Drink Hayley Barnett

Taste of tradition

One word sums up this Tauranga restaurant: Classic. A classic setting, classic cuisine, and classic vibes make it a local favourite for a reason.

One word sums up this Tauranga restaurant: Classic. A classic setting, classic cuisine, and classic vibes make it a local favourite for a reason.

words Hayley Barnett

Mention Harbourside to a Bay local and you’ll hear nothing but good things. As the pinnacle of traditional fine dining here, it offers everything you need from a waterfront eatery – stunning views, great food, friendly service, and a refined yet unpretentious vibe.

Having bought the restaurant back in 2011, husband and wife team Peter and Anita Ward know how lucky they are to own such a perfect spot on the Tauranga Harbour. There’s nothing else quite like it.

Peter had been managing Harbourside for four years when they jumped at the offer to purchase the restaurant. In that time he’d learned exactly what their clientele expected, mainly because they’d tell him.

“Consistency is key,” says Peter. “Even now, if you take something off the menu we’re nearly run out of town.”

The menu is full of classic dishes with a blend of Kiwiana and South Pacific tastes, as well as time-honoured European fare. Only slight variations are made during the change of menu each season.

“Many people here have traditional values and tastes and they simply want consistent quality,” explains Peter. “We provide that quality and consistency without throwing anything out there that’s too left field. It’s important to meet your market.”

Known for its simple fish and chips, these days other favourites consist of agresto crusted lamb backstrap and the popular Harbourside Seafood Chowder. This isn’t the place to come for an experimental, risky food adventure. Here you know what you’re getting every time.

It's all in the family for Harbourside, with Peter, Anita, Nicole and Cameron running the show.

And most of the staff stay consistent too. These days, it’s a family affair with Peter and Anita’s son, Cameron, running the kitchen as head chef, Cameron’s wife, Nicole, as maître d', and their son, 18-year-old Taylor, running the bar. Mixing family and business aligns with their ethos of providing a warm, welcoming atmosphere, where they treat their guests like family. It’s a formula that works and owner Peter isn’t about to do anything silly like change it.

“For us when we first arrived in Tauranga, Harbourside became our staple,” says Peter. “We’d get a table outside, order a wine and fish and chips. It was our favourite spot to be.”

That’s exactly what they want to continue offering to diners: a perfect experience in a tranquil setting, where you’re comfortable enough to order the fish and chips.

Harboursidetauranga.co.nz

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Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

Making a splash

A popular craft brewery and eatery has just expanded into Ōmokoroa. Karl Puschmann checks it out.

A popular craft brewery and eatery has just expanded
into Ōmokoroa. Karl Puschmann checks it out.

Photos Jahl Marshall

There’s a new bar and eatery that’s been making quite a splash in the seaside village and holiday hotspot of Ōmokoroa. It may have only opened its doors in December but local craft beer enthusiasts and dumpling connoisseurs have been quick to jump into The Rising Tide.

It’s fair to say its reputation preceded it. Ōmokoroa’s Rising Tide is the first expansion for the incredibly popular Mount Maunganui institution of the same name that’s been brewing and serving award-winning craft beers since 2016. 

But it’s not just the flavourful and distinctive range of its beer brand Mount Brewing Co., the juicy burgers or famous dumplings, the sun-drenched deck that overlooks the Soper Reserve or the relaxed and welcoming atmosphere that’s made it a favourite in the Bay. 

Rather, it’s the combination of all of those things along with a much more intangible quality; character. This is especially important to craft beer bars because craft beer lives or dies on its character. That's its whole thing. 

“It's been a lot of time planning it all out. We wanted to replicate the Mount and have the same atmosphere,” Ellie Kirk, the general manager of both branches of the Rising Tide, tells me. 

We’re sitting out on the bar’s spacious deck in Ōmokoroa, enjoying a couple of their signature Golden Hour hazy’s in the warmth of the midday sun. 

“You can sit more than 150 people here, easy,” she smiles, looking around at the breezy space, before detailing plans for a large, fixed, all-weather marquee that will offer shelter from the elements and allow the Rising Tide’s popular live music programme to kick off in this new location. 

“We wanted to duplicate what we have at the Mount and bring it to Ōmokoroa because it works so well there,” she says. “There's nothing like this around here.”

Getting here has paradoxically been an extremely long journey and also something of a rush. The idea for a new Rising Tide began formulating around three or four years ago, with Pāpāmoa being the chosen location. But then Covid struck, slamming the brakes on those plans. A couple of years later, when the worst of it was over, the Pāpāmoa site that’d been earmarked was no longer available. Undeterred, scouting for a new location began. 

“It was so funny. Last May the owners just turned around to me one day and said, ‘Hey, we’re going to open up in Ōmokoroa. I was like, ‘What? This year?’” Ellie laughs, thinking back. “I said, ‘Okay, let’s go for it’.”

She came out to see the new location for the first time, a mere seven months before the planned opening.  

“It was so different to how it is now,” she says. “I couldn't envision it. In my head, I was like, This isn't The Rising Tide’.” 

The fixtures were all wrong, there was no room for a brewery (something that’d been part of their Pāpāmoa plans) and the vibe just wasn’t there. But the biggest offence was a giant, floor-to-ceiling mirror right behind the bar. Ellie says, that was the first thing that had to go. 

“We wanted the same wall as the Mount. Visually, the taps are a big thing, because we are a craft beer bar,” she says. “It’s huge.”

Once the Rising Tide’s signature white tiles and the long row of beer taps went in, Ellie says the bar began to feel more like home. There are a whopping 30 taps to select from, including taps for Mount Brewing Co.’s special, limited-edition beers and ciders.

“Every limited release we’ll have here. I told them, ‘Don’t leave Ōmokoroa out!’,” she laughs. “Rising Tide in the Mount gets allocated three kegs and we get one keg. So once it’s gone, it's gone. We’re actually tapping on two new beers today.”

Great beer? Check. Cool vibe? Check. But there’s one other thing Rising Tide is known for, its food. Particularly the dumplings from their in-house kitchen, Johney’s Dumpling House. You can go ahead and put a big ol’ check next to that as well.

“There’s a lot of foodie people here,” Ellie says. “The quality of food, the service standards, the presentation are all exactly the same. That's a big thing for us here.”

Then she smiles and says something that will come as a huge relief during the current cost of living crises.

“And the deals are the same! We have the cheap beer, burger and fries deal on a Wednesday, you can come and get dumplings really cheap with a beer every Thursday.”

It’s been a lot of work, and a long time coming, but all the things people love about the original Rising Tide have successfully washed up in Ōmokoroa. 

We’ve been sitting out enjoying the deck for about an hour while people have trickled in, eager to take advantage of the hot sun and a cool lunchtime meal and drink deal, and I can’t help but feel tempted to get another pint myself. 

therisingtidemt.com/omokoroa

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Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

The world is your oyster

Stacey Jones savours the local kaimoana with a side of social enterprise.

Stacey Jones savours the local kaimoana
with a side of social enterprise.

Kaimoana is the jewel in the crown of the Bay of Plenty’s food story. A delicious bounty that supported Iwi for centuries, as they gathered kai in the plentiful harbours of Tauranga, Ōhiwa and Makatu over the summer months, preserving for the winter months ahead.

But kaimoana has become a scarce commodity, a result of relentless overfishing. It’s perplexing – our region boasts one of New Zealand’s most extensive coastlines, yet obtaining fresh, local kaimoana is akin to locating a pearl in a sea of oysters. 

So you can’t imagine how big my smile was when I heard the oyster farm in Ōhiwa, newly named Tio Ōhiwa (“tio” means oyster), had been purchased by a collective of Māori tono (bid) for shares in the oyster farms’ development, with an aim to regenerate the oysters in the harbour, along with scallops, mussels, and pipis. Not only that, they’re also planning to offer a culinary tourism experience through a social enterprise, providing work opportunities to rangatahi (young people) who may find the school system challenging, but have potential.

The masterminds behind the project are directors Wini and Simon Geddes, quintessential Kiwis known for their no-nonsense approach to getting sh*t done. In my initial meeting with Wini, I quickly grasped the essence of her character. When I asked about her role, she replied, “I mainly clean the toilets” – which, while true to an extent, belies her role as director of Tio Ōhiwa.

Initially, their plan was to focus on training rangatahi to deliver a qualification in aquaculture, and then move onto the tourism experience at a later stage.

However, they swiftly realised the tourism opportunity could not wait. As Wini aptly puts it, “The tourism part of the project was a five-year plan, but we seem to have done it in five weeks.” 

The newly reopened farm, established in 1968, offers daily tours, fittingly named the “Shuck ’n’ Cruise”. These tours include the chance to wade out to the oyster crates, shuck oysters, ride a boat into the harbour to see the farms firsthand, and savour the delectable kai offered at the onsite takeaway shop. Plans to create a new waterfront restaurant are in the making, with pontoons and a helipad, plus a boardwalk to Tauwhare Pāpa. They will also be offering year-round production so you’ll never have to go a day without oysters and champagne.

Remarkably, theirs could very well be New Zealand’s busiest seafood takeaway, dishing out 2000+ oysters a day during the peak season. This is just the beginning of their ambitious plans, with the owners aiming to reach a staggering five million oysters in annual production.

So this summer, take a trip to Tio Ōhiwa to experience their plentiful kaimoana. Book a Shuck ‘n’ Cruise, bring your friends, and go the extra mile to help this place become a must-visit tourism destination. After all, it’s not every day you get to experience fresh kaimoana right from the source, created by the most get-sh*t-done Kiwis I’ve ever had the pleasure to meet. They are truly making the world our rangatahis’ oyster, while putting the “plenty” back in the Bay’s seafood story. Ka pai! 

ohiwaoysters.com

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PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

Fancy footwork

Marlborough’s magnificent whites have so much more to offer than perfumed savs, as UNO wine columnist Jess Easton discovers.

Marlborough’s magnificent whites have so much more to offer than perfumed savs, as UNO wine columnist Jess Easton discovers.

Photos Jamie Troughton/Dscribe Media

There are many ways to become a master winemaker and while Richelle Tyney may have taken a slightly unorthodox route, the result is still going to end up the same.

The Nelson-raised, Blenheim-based wahine – who has strong Bay of Plenty whakapapa (Ngāti Maniapoto/Ngāti Porou) – manages the winemaking programme at Greywacke, working alongside enigmatic founder Kevin Judd.

That’s the same Kevin Judd who helped put Cloudy Bay, Marlborough and New Zealand on the world wine map, forever changing the perception of 'new world' wines and Sauvignon Blanc as a variety.

He started his own label Greywacke in 2009, named for the relatively bland bedrock that underpins most of Aotearoa, and started producing vintages that are anything but bland.

Before joining Greywacke in 2021, meanwhile, Richelle had spent the best part of a decade working with the likes of Mahi’s Brian Bicknell and Spy Valley’s Paul Bourgeois.

Before that, however, she’d studied exercise science in Christchurch, played representative touch rugby and been a handy basketballer.  Two uncles – Jamie Joseph and Terry Mitchell – were All Blacks and she knew far more about sport than wine, apart from that it came in at least three different colours and was good fun at parties.

Her OE changed all that. Landing a nannying job in Switzerland, she was introduced to fine wine by the family she was working for and a lightbulb went off in her head. Before she knew it, she was back home, enrolled in winemaking at Lincoln University.

A very similar lightbulb went off in my head the first time I tried a Greywacke Riesling, building up to Kitchen Takeover’s Ki Tua event earlier this year. 

Smooth and delicious, with layers of honeysuckle, citrus peel and juicy
stone-fruit flavours, subtly emerging and swirling rather than bursting and punching.  And, wait a minute – it’s from Marlborough? A region that is known for being Sauvignon Blanc centric with not much else.

A morning tasting with Richelle dispelled that misconception forever, as she unleashed the full spectrum of Greywacke’s white wine wizardry. Riesling, Pinot Gris, a startlingly good Chardonnay and a Wild Sauvignon that was wildly interesting and jaw-droppingly tasty.

Greywacke is all about hand-picking and hand-crafting. And the thing I love about Richelle is how she’s completely unfazed at working with an industry legend; her own confidence and sense of self are only going to grow the depth and quality of Greywacke’s offerings.

“Kevin’s both highly creative and very detailed at the same time – which is what makes him so talented – and there's a mutual respect where questions are asked and decisions are made,” she explains. “It’s rewarding to work with an industry icon and know that my input is genuinely contributing to the wine style."

And maybe there’s something in her sporty background that helps too; a sure-footedness when the pressure comes on and the weather throws curve balls.

“I love it at harvest, with all the problem-solving and thinking on your feet. That’s the beauty of it – no year is ever going to be the same.  I wouldn’t recommend it but I love it.” 

Jess Easton is a director and owner of Kitchen Takeover, complementing her career as a Tauranga-based lawyer.

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Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

Season’s eatings

Great Kiwi Bakeoff winner Alby Hailes showcases his latest book, Good Vibes, with a selection of delectable, fresh recipes, each offering delicious flavours, perfect for celebrating

Great Kiwi Bakeoff winner Alby Hailes showcases his latest book, Good Vibes, with a selection of delectable, fresh recipes, each offering delicious flavours, perfect for celebrating.

Words Aaron Mclean

Turmeric roast potatoes with crispy kawakawa & brown butter whip

The perfect roast potato recipe, and potatoes this good deserve special treatment – kawakawa leaves, a plant endemic to Aotearoa, bring complexity to the brown butter and crisp up beautifully when fried to garnish. If kawakawa is unavailable, use fresh sage.

Hands-on time 30 mins

Total time 1 hour 10 mins

Serves 6–8 as a side

Ingredients

Brown butter whip

  • 150g butter, chopped into small cubes

  • 6 kawakawa leaves

    Turmeric roast potatoes

  • 100ml canola oil

  • 2kg agria potatoes, peeled and cut into 4cm chunks

  • 1 tbsp + 1 tsp sea salt

  • 1 tbsp finely chopped sage

  • 2 tsp ground turmeric

  • ½ tsp cracked black pepper

  • 2 tbsp olive oil

  • 8 kawakawa leaves

Method

First start the brown butter whip. Melt the butter with the kawakawa leaves in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Continue to cook for 3–5 minutes, stirring regularly and swirling the pan, until it starts to foam and the butter turns a deep golden brown (be careful here as it can rapidly go from brown to black). Pour the brown butter (including any flecks that have solidified) into a bowl, and discard the kawakawa leaves. Refrigerate the butter until cooled to the consistency of room temperature butter (this can take up to an hour). Stir a couple of times as it cools to mix up any browned solids with the melted butter.Remove from the fridge and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 190°C fan-forced (or 210°C conventional).

For the turmeric roast potatoes, pour the canola oil into a large roasting dish and place in the oven to heat. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with cold water and add 2 tbsp salt. Bring to the boil over high heat. Once boiling, parboil the potatoes by cooking for 5–10 minutes, until a knife can go easily through the outer edge of a potato but they are still firm in the centre. Drain then return to low heat and stir for 1 minute to dry out the potatoes a little. Remove from the heat and give the saucepan a decent shake until the edges of the potatoes are fluffed up. Add the sage and turmeric, tossing to coat. Carefully remove the roasting dish from the oven. Add the potatoes and carefully toss to coat with the hot oil. Roast for 35–40 minutes, until golden, crispy and cooked through. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the pepper and remaining 1 tsp salt, tossing to coat.

To finish the brown butter whip, beat the brown butter with an electric hand mixer for 3 minutes until fluffy and whipped.

For the crispy kawakawa, place the olive oil in a small frying pan over medium-high heat. Once the oil is really hot, add the remaining kawakawa leaves and fry for 20–30 seconds on each side until blistered and crispy, then remove from the oil and place on a paper towel-lined plate to drain.

Serve the potatoes warm, topped with dollops of brown butter whip and the crispy kawakawa leaves


Lazy-day pulled pork with apple & beetroot slaw

This combination of pork and slaw can be stuffed into bao, tacos and flatbreads, or served with your favourite sides. A healthy swig of rum and grated green apple give the meat incredible flavour. Allowing the slaw to marinate 30 minutes in the fridge lets the cabbage soften just a little.

Hands-on time 15 mins

Total time 5 hours

Serves 6–8

Ingredients

Pulled pork

  • 1.5kg pork shoulder or leg, bone-in

  • 2 tsp ground sumac

  • 1 tsp ground chipotle chilli (or other chilli powder)

  • 1 tsp ground ginger

  • 1 tsp ground cumin

  • ¼ tsp ground cloves

  • 2 tbsp soft brown sugar

  • 1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger

  • 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

  • 1 large green apple, grated

  • 60ml apple cider vinegar

  • 60ml golden rum

  • 2 tbsp tomato paste

  • ½ tsp sea salt

  • ½ tsp cracked black pepper

  • 2 red onions, thinly sliced

  • 400ml can coconut cream

    Apple & beetroot slaw

  • ¼ red cabbage, shredded

  • 1 large green apple, halved, cored, cut into matchsticks

  • 1 small beetroot (about 125g), finely grated

  • 70g unsweetened natural yoghurt

  • 3 tbsp apple cider vinegar

  • freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon

  • 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses

  • 2 tbsp chopped mint leaves

  • 1 handful coriander leaves

Method

For the pulled pork, trim any excess fat or skin from the pork. Pat the meat dry with paper towel. Using a sharp knife, score the meat diagonally a few times, making cuts just 1cm deep. This lets the marinade penetrate the flesh. Place into a medium–large (about 25cm diameter) Dutch oven or casserole dish with a lid. In a bowl, whisk together the spices, sugar, ginger, garlic, apple, vinegar, rum, tomato paste, salt and pepper until well combined. Pour over the pork and massage into both sides of the meat. Cover with the lid and leave at room temperature for 1 hour to marinate.

Preheat the oven to 140°C fan-forced (or 160°C conventional). Add the onion and coconut cream to the meat and stir through to coat. Cover and cook for about 4 hours, until the meat is very tender and falling apart.

For the apple & beetroot slaw, combine all ingredients in a bowl and toss together. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

To serve, transfer the pork to a chopping board. Using two forks, pull the meat into shreds. Return the pork to the casserole dish and mix through the sauce to absorb all the moisture and flavour. Serve warm with the apple & beetroot slaw, either on their own or stuffed into tacos, buns or flatbreads.

Note: Alternatively, cook the pork in a slow cooker on LOW for 8–10 hours or HIGH for 6 hours, until tender and falling apart. Ensure you still marinate the pork first for maximum flavour


Black sesame, rose & cardamom cake with honey mascarpone icing

If there is a quintessentially me cake, this is it. This cake has fed hungry hospital nurses, been cut by a married couple, and even featured as the base for one of my showstoppers on The Great Kiwi Bake Off. I love how visually striking the grey tones of the crumb are against the whipped cloud-like mascarpone. The combination of black sesame, rose, cardamom and black pepper is an unusual one, and it’s sure to become a favourite.

Hands-on time 20 mins

Total time 1 hour 30 mins

Serves 12

Ingredients

Cake batter

  • 100g butter, softened to room temperature

  • 200g caster sugar

  • 2 eggs

  • 125ml canola oil

  • 2 tbsp rose water

  • 2 tsp vanilla extract

  • 75g black tahini

  • 125ml coconut cream

  • 150g plain flour

  • 110g ground almonds

  • 2 tsp baking powder

  • 1 tsp ground cardamom

  • ¼ tsp sea salt

  • ¼ tsp ground black pepper

    To decorate

  • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds

  • 1 tbsp black sesame seeds

  • 200g mascarpone

  • 1 ½ tbsp honey, plus extra to drizzle

  • 2 tsp rose water

Method

Preheat the oven to 160°C fan-forced (or 180°C conventional). Grease a 20cm round cake tin and line with baking paper.

To make the cake, beat the butter and sugar in a large bowl, using an electric hand or stand mixer with the paddle attachment, for 3 minutes or until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs and beat for 1 minute, until well combined. Pour in the oil, rose water and vanilla. Beat for 1 minute, until smooth. Add the black tahini and coconut cream and beat for an additional minute, until smooth. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, ground almonds, baking powder, cardamom, salt and pepper. Fold the dry ingredients into the wet until smooth and just combined. There should be no remaining specks of flour left in the cake batter. Pour into the cake tin and bake for 45–50 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin for 15 minutes before turning onto a wire rack to cool completely.

To decorate, toast the sesame seeds in a small frying pan over medium heat for a few minutes, until starting to brown and pop. Transfer to a small bowl to cool. In a separate bowl, whisk together the mascarpone, honey and rose water until smooth. Pipe or spread the honey mascarpone evenly over the top of the cooled cake, then sprinkle with the toasted seeds and drizzle with extra honey.

Serve on the day of baking, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.


Matcha & pistachio amaretti

In the style of Italian amaretti, these biscuits are wonderfully chewy due to a base of egg whites and ground nuts. Matcha and pistachio are buddies in green and a dangerously moreish combination, so if ingredients are on hand, this recipe is always worth doubling.

Hands-on time 15 mins

Total time 1 hour 10 mins

Serves 15 small cookies

Ingredients

  • 100g pistachio kernels

  • 110g ground almonds

  • 200g caster sugar

  • 1 tbsp matcha powder

  • pinch of sea salt

  • 65g egg whites (about 2)

  • 1 tsp vanilla bean paste

  • 75g icing sugar

Method

Place the pistachios in a food processor and blitz until finely ground. Transfer to a large bowl, add the ground almonds, caster sugar, matcha and salt, whisking to combine. In a separate bowl, use an electric hand mixer to beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Add the egg whites and vanilla to the dry ingredients. Use a spatula to gently fold together to make a soft, slightly sticky paste. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 40 minutes, so that the mixture can be rolled into balls without sticking to your hands.

Preheat the oven to 150°C fan-forced (or 170°C conventional). Line 2 oven trays with baking paper. Sift the icing sugar into a shallow bowl. Roll the chilled dough into small balls (about 30g each). Roll the balls in the icing sugar to coat generously. Place on the oven trays spaced at least 4cm apart, as they may spread a little as they bake.

Bake for 15–20 minutes, until cracked, fragrant and just starting to turn lightly golden brown at the edges. Leave to cool on the trays for 10 minutes, before carefully moving to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

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Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

At the water’s edge

Down on the harbour you’ll find this elegant, light-filled eatery, where the food is just as appealing as the view.

Down on the harbour you’ll find this elegant, light-filled eatery, where the food is just as appealing as the view.

Words Karl Puschmann

You’d be hard-pressed to find somewhere to eat with a more spectacular view than The Restaurant at Trinity Wharf. Perched on three piers that stretch out and over the glistening waters of Tauranga’s harbour, the only way to get any closer to the water would be to jump in.

It’s a view that would improve any meal. But Trinity Wharf’s executive chef Rob Forsman, doesn’t want the food to simply match the gorgeous views, he wants it to exceed them. Rob’s been working in restaurants for close to 25 years. During this time he’s worked as head chef for Aotearoa’s restaurant royalty like Simon Gault, Al Brown and the Bay’s Kitchen Takeover team before moving to Trinity Wharf 18 months ago.

It’s a long way from his humble beginnings. “I started as a kitchen hand,” he says. “It was out of necessity. I didn’t grow up dreaming of being a chef. That would be a really cool story to tell but it’s not the case. I’ve always enjoyed cooking, but it didn’t occur to me as a job until I started washing dishes.”

He spent well over a year in the “dish pit,” picking up knowledge around the kitchen and getting trained in the basics. Soon enough his days of scrubbing pans were over and his passion had been ignited. Not just for the work, but for kitchen culture itself.

“To be in a team of hardworking people who are all single-minded in their vision and all working toward the same goal is an amazing feeling. It epitomises kitchen work.”

He worked his way up the chain of command until he attracted the attention of Simon Gault, who offered him the head chef role at Ponsonby’s acclaimed Jervois Steak House. He was there for three years before accepting the head chef role with Al Brown at the trendy Federal Delicatessen beside Sky City.

“I loved working in these places. AI’s whole vision was to treat customers like friends and treat staff like family. It’s inspirational.”

That’s the mindset he’s instilling in his staff at Trinity Wharf. He wants to inspire and feel that inspiration himself. If the kitchen’s cooking, so to speak, then he reasons the food will take care of itself.

To that end, his first priority was to refresh the menu.

“We now use New Zealand ingredients and try to source as much as we can locally. There’s a lot of great produce and fruit in this part of the country and we want to support local business as well.”

While adapting from the single-focused restaurant business to the multi-faceted role at Trinity Wharf, with its multitude of menus for various occasions, events and the day-to-day, has been a challenge, it’s one he’s embraced.

Looking out over the glistening sea which is right outside the window, he reveals his hopes for The Restaurant at Trinity Wharf.

“We’d love to become a destination for the local population.” He smiles. “We’d absolutely love that.” 

ASK THE CHEF

Rob Forsman takes on UNO’s quickfire questions.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had?

The street food in Southeast Asia. It’s not a polished, plated meal but the flavours are insane. It’s so humble but the love has been put into it. I recently went to Indonesia and ate my way around. I didn’t eat any Western food at all.

What’s your earliest food memory?

Baking bread with my grandmother. I was really little and the process was like magic to me – kneading the dough and seeing how it rises. Her secret was to pop it under the bed to proof.

How can you make everyone’s most disliked vegetable, Brussels sprouts, tasty?

Blanch them in a little bit of salt and sugar to take the bitterness off. Get some bacon nice and crispy, some caramelised onions, some chilli if it takes your fancy, and then toss them all together in the frying pan with some butter until you get a little colour on the Brussels sprouts. Colour is king.

What’s the next big trend in food?

I think people are going to start consuming a lot less meat. It’s become too expensive, and there’s a lot more awareness around the environmental impact. I think meat is on its way out. Slowly. We’ll never get rid of it. It’ll just become more opulent. More special. 

Trinitywharf.co.nz




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Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

Breaking the brunch rules

Pāpāmoa influencer Makaia Carr is taking on the big business of beverages headfirst.

Pāpāmoa influencer Makaia Carr is taking on the big business of beverages headfirst.

Words Catherine Sylvester  |  Photos Erin Cave

Known to some as one of the first social media influencers in Aotearoa, and to others as the founder of the charity Kura Kai, Makaia has her sights set on bringing the humble mimosa out of the brunch-only routine and into our lunches, picnics, BBQs and beyond.

“I’m solely responsible for my life now,” the 44-year-old says, referring to her newly single status. “I knew this was the year to create something that will be exciting, enduring, and allow me to leave something for my kids.”

Brainstorming with friends in early January, the genesis of her new venture, Henlee, was born. 

“I realised the drinks industry would be a good option,” explains Makaia. “I thought that having a mimosa in a can would be fun, convenient and would reduce wastage.”

By February, meetings with a local bottling plant were underway, and by March the designers were at work. By late August, Henlee went to market and has been gathering momentum since.

“It’s such a strong New Zealand product,” she says. “We use Hawke’s Bay sparkling wine and Gisborne orange juice. It’s low sugar and low calorie and you’re guaranteed the same great blend every time.

Having made Pāpāmoa home since moving from Auckland a few years ago, Makaia was conscious of working and engaging with people and businesses in the region. She worked locally to create the perfect mimosa formula, with it being bottled in and distributed from the Mount. For brand design and packaging, she worked with the
Woods Agency, a local mainstay.

Makaia credits her 20 years of retail experience with giving her the skills necessary to successfully run a business.

“Those were my ‘university’ years,” she says, smiling. “I learned so much from old-school retailers about marketing plans, budgets, managing and leading teams. I was able to firstly apply that to my career in social media, and now to Henlee
and the beverage industry.”

With demand from Australia for the new mimosa in a can, and bars and retailers around the country stocking Henlee, it’s only a matter of time until an international market comes calling.

Makaia acknowledges that New Zealand wine has such great renown overseas but is happy to take things one considered step at a time. 

“I’m not going to rush things,” she adds. “For now, it’s all about focusing on making our mark. When people think mimosa, they’ll think Henlee.”

And if her track record and current momentum is anything to go by, it will play out exactly the way she has planned. 

Henlee.co.nz

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On a roll

The Mount’s favourite sushi fusion restaurant and bar, Satori Lounge, has moved across the bridge to bigger, better and far more modern premises on The Strand.

The Mount’s favourite sushi fusion restaurant and bar, Satori Lounge, has moved across the bridge to bigger, better and far more modern premises on The Strand.

Words Hayley Barnett

Lisa Wilson never pictured herself in hospitality, let alone owning and running one of the most popular sushi restaurants in the Bay. She didn’t even like raw fish. But, 13 years ago, that’s exactly what happened, and now she can’t imagine doing anything else.

“It was an accident, really,” says Lisa, gesturing towards her expansive, modern eatery on The Strand in Tauranga, which is right now heaving with the inner-city weekday lunch crowd.

“My ex is Chilean and sushi is huge in South America, so he talked me into giving him some of my savings to start a sushi restaurant in the Mount. Of course, he kept needing more and more money until eventually I didn’t have any savings left. And then we broke up!”

Lisa found herself having to quickly take the reins, all while working her day job in banking to stay afloat. 

After one too many reviews stating that the food was great but the service needed some work, Lisa realised she’d have to quit her day job and take on the restaurant full-time – and to stop responding to those reviews with “If you want quick service, head to McDonald’s.”

“It took me a while to learn that the customer is always right,” laughs Lisa.

Today is Tuesday – gluten-free day – at her new premises. It’s always been popular, but now that Satori Lounge has moved across the bridge, every day is popular.

It could be the new office crowds that she’s catering for, but I suggest it might be the fact that Satori Lounge has such a great reputation for fresh (and fast) sushi with a difference.

All the best dishes are still on the menu, like my personal favourites, the Citrus Sushi Roll and the Ceviche Sushi Roll,as well as the Honey Chicken Sushi Roll and, well, everything else.

“I don’t like to change the menu,” explains Lisa. “Chefs have tried but people know our menu and they like it, so why change it?”

It was the Citrus Sushi Roll that was responsible for Lisa’s about-turn on the raw fish front. She added more raw salmon little by little until her tastebuds agreed, and now it’s one of her favourite foods.

Though a change in menu won’t be on the cards, it seems the change in scenery is working to the restaurant’s advantage. Lisa even has plans to landscape the back into a garden area for diners with the help of Blair, her landscaping partner and father to her twin boys. 

So, whether you’re a hardcore sushi fan, or just keen to try the Honey Chicken Roll (the most popular dish), you’ll definitely find something to love about Satori Lounge. And say hi to Lisa if you see her fumbling around the bar area.

“I wasn’t cut out for hospitality,” she assures me. “I love talking to people too much!” Which is, funnily enough, what makes a restaurant so hospitable. That could be part of the reason this not-so-new eatery is really hitting the spot.  

satorilounge.co.nz

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Whittaker’s Honey, Nougat & Almond Cheesecake

Servings: 12

Difficulty: Medium 

Prep time: 1 hour + setting time

Cook time: 10 minutes 

Ingredients

For the base:

300g Chocolate biscuits

50g (1/3 cup) Flaked almonds

110g Butter, melted

For the cheesecake filling:

500g Cream cheese

250g Sour cream

¼ Cup Brown sugar or honey

250g Whittaker’s Honey, Nougat & Almond Chocolate, chopped

1 tsp Gelatine powder

For the honey almonds:

50g (1/3 Cup) Flaked almonds

1 Tbsp Honey

Pinch of sea salt

To serve (Optional):

2 Tbsp Melted chocolate

Method

Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm springform cake tin. Blitz the chocolate biscuits and almonds in a food processor until you have fine crumbs. Add the melted butter and continue to blitz until combined. Firmly and evenly press the crumb mixture into the base and up the sides of the prepared tin. Place in the fridge to set for at least 20 minutes.

In a large bowl, beat the cream cheese, sour cream and brown sugar or honey with a hand mixer until smooth and creamy.

Place ¾ of the Whittaker’s Honey Nougat & Almond block in a heatproof bowl. Melt in the microwave, stirring every 30 seconds until smooth.

Place the gelatine in a small bowl with 1 tablespoon of cold water and mix until dissolved.

Add the melted chocolate & gelatine mixture to the cream cheese mixture and beat until completely combined.

Finely chop the remaining chocolate and fold it through the cream cheese mixture. Pour the creamy filling into the biscuit base and use a spatula to smooth out the top. Cover and leave to set in the fridge for at least 4 hours.

Before serving, place the almonds on a lined baking tray. Drizzle over the honey and toss to coat. Bake in the oven at 160°C for 10 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with sea salt.

When ready to serve, carefully remove the cheesecake from the springform pan. Transfer to a serving plate and drizzle with melted chocolate & sprinkle over the honey almonds.

whittakers.co.nz

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Baker Gatherer

Hamiltonian Dane McGregor, otherwise known as the Baker Gatherer, started his baking journey with a love of food, childhood nostalgia, curiosity, and a willingness to experiment and create. Constantly learning and trialling new recipes and techniques, Dane has kindly shared some of his successes with UNO

Hamiltonian Dane McGregor, otherwise known as the Baker Gatherer, started his baking journey with a love of food, childhood nostalgia, curiosity, and a willingness to experiment and create. Constantly learning and trialling new recipes and techniques, Dane has kindly shared some of his successes with UNO.

Beer and Pretzel Cupcake

A beer and chocolate-flavoured cupcake, topped with cream cheese buttercream and pretzels.

Prep time: 40 minutes

Cook time: 20 minutes

Makes 12

Cupcake

130ml beer

120g butter

40g cocoa powder

200g caster sugar

1 large egg

70g sour cream

1 tsp vanilla extract
120g plain flour
1¼ tsp baking soda

For the Top

80g butter, room temperature

150g cream cheese, room temperature

420g icing sugar

1 tbsp milk

Pretzels

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 170°C bake and line a cupcake tray with 12 cupcake cases. Set aside.

In a medium-sized saucepan, add in the beer and first measure of butter. Stir on a low heat until melted and combined. Do not boil.

Remove the saucepan from the heat, then whisk in the cocoa powder and sugar until dissolved. Allow to cool slightly.

Using a freestanding mixer or handheld beater, beat together the egg, sour cream and vanilla in a separate bowl until combined.

Slowly pour the beer and butter mixture in with the egg mixture, while still beating on a low speed. When combined, add in the flour and baking soda and continue to beat until smooth.

Transfer mixture to a small jug and pour into prepared cupcake cases, filling to about ⅔ full.

Bake for around 16-20 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean and cupcakes spring back when touched. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

For the buttercream, add the butter and cream cheese to the bowl of a freestanding mixer or using a handheld beater, and beat for about 2-3 minutes until well combined.

Add the icing sugar in two stages, beating for another 3 minutes between each addition. If the buttercream is still quite firm, beat in small amounts of milk until desired consistency is reached.

Pipe blobs of buttercream on top of cooled cupcakes and decorate with pretzels. You can either roll the top of the cupcake in a saucer of broken pretzel pieces or spend some time arranging pretzels on top by hand. Enjoy!


Banana, Peanut Butter and Bacon Cupcake

A soft banana cupcake, topped with peanut butter buttercream and crispy bacon.

Prep time: 40 minutes

Cook time: 20 minutes

Makes 12

Cupcake

100g caster sugar

20g brown sugar

140g self-raising flour

½ tsp baking soda

2 large eggs

125g butter, softened

½ ripe banana (approx 70g)

1 tbsp milk

For the top

4-5 slices of streaky bacon
150g butter, softened
60g smooth peanut butter
270g icing sugar
1 tbsp milk

Peanut crumb

30g smooth peanut butter

30g icing sugar

METHOD

To start, flick oven on to 180°C bake and fill cupcake tray with cases. Set aside.

For the cupcakes, whisk together the sugars in a freestanding mixer.

Sift in the remaining dry ingredients and then add the eggs, butter and mashed banana. Beat for about 60 seconds.

Lower the speed and slowly add the milk before turning mixer back up for about another 30 seconds.

Fill paper cases about ⅔ full and bake for 16-20 minutes or until cupcakes spring back when touched. Allow to cool completely.

While the cupcakes are cooling, flick oven on to grill and grill slices of bacon on a sheet of greaseproof paper until cooked and crispy (or follow directions on pack). Allow to cool while you make the buttercream.

For the buttercream, beat butter and peanut butter in freestanding mixer
for 5 minutes, scraping sides down occasionally.

Sift icing sugar and add to the butter mixture in two stages, beating for another 3 minutes between additions.

On a slower speed, add the milk, then turn mixer speed back up and beat for another few minutes.

To make the peanut crumb, mix peanut butter and icing sugar together until it forms an even crumb and set aside.

Once the cupcakes and bacon are cool, pipe a blob of buttercream, cram full of crispy bacon, and sprinkle with the peanut crumb. This will have you all shook up!


Sconut

A fusion of a scone and donut, covered in cinnamon sugar and filled with jam and cream.

Prep time: 40 minutes

Cook time: 15 minutes

Makes 16-20

Sconut

510g plain flour

5 tsp baking powder

Pinch of salt

1 tbsp sugar

2 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp nutmeg

60g butter

¾ cup milk
1 tsp vanilla extract

Cinnamon sugar

80g butter, melted

200g sugar

1 tbsp cinnamon

Filling

4 tsp water (optional)

1 tsp gelatin (optional)

200ml cream

80g icing sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

Strawberry jam

METHOD

To start, flick oven on to 180°C bake and line an oven tray with baking paper.

Using a large bowl, add all of the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly.

Add the butter and rub in to dry ingredients until it resembles a fine crumb.

Finally, pour in milk and vanilla, and mix through with a knife until dough comes together (add a little more milk or flour to get the right consistency).

Turn dough out onto a floured bench and knead for about a minute before rolling dough out to approximately 1cm thickness.

Using a circular cookie cutter or upside- down drinking glass, cut out circles of dough and arrange them on a prepared baking tray. Bake for 15 minutes or until risen and cooked through.

While baking, start prepping the cinnamon sugar. Melt butter in a bowl and set-aside. Also mix together the sugar and cinnamon in another
bowl too.

When the scones come out of the oven, immediately coat them in melted butter and cover with cinnamon sugar one at a time. Set aside to cool completely.

Once cooled, it’s time to fill with whipped cream. I like to use gelatin to stabilise the whipped cream, which then holds nicely inside the sconuts.

To start, add the water to a ramekin, then sprinkle over gelatin. Allow to sit for roughly 5 minutes.

Either using a freestanding mixer or a handheld beater, beat the cream,
icing sugar and vanilla for a minute to combine.

When the gelatin is set, place in the microwave for 10 seconds to melt back into a liquid before pouring into the cream mixture while beating on a high speed. Continue to beat until whipped.

To assemble your sconuts, slice in half, pipe with whipped cream and add a dollop of strawberry jam. Perfect to enjoy with a hot cup of tea!


Spiced Rose Shortbread 

A smooth and warmly spiced shortbread, topped with sweet and fluffy rose-flavoured marshmallow.

Prep time: 30 minutes

Cook time: 15 minutes

Chill time: 30 minutes

Makes 12

Shortbread

180g butter, room temperature

70g icing sugar

225g plain flour

1 tsp cardamom

1 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp ginger

1/2 tsp salt

Marshmallow

60ml boiling water

1 tsp gelatin

100g caster sugar

1 tsp rose water

Pink food colouring

Dried rose petals (optional)

METHOD

Using a handheld beater, cream together the butter and icing sugar
until pale and fluffy. Add flour, spices and salt and mix through until a firm dough is formed.

Roll out dough until 1.5cm thick and slice into rectangles. Place on a tray lined with baking paper and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 180°C fan bake. 

When dough has chilled, bake for approximately 15 minutes or until golden. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely.

For the marshmallow, add boiling water and gelatin to a large bowl, stirring to dissolve. Add sugar, rose water and colouring, and beat with a handheld beater on high for 10 minutes until thick, fluffy and sugar has dissolved.

Pipe on top of cooled shortbread and sprinkle with dried rose petals. 

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Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

Fresh flavours

Stacey Jones introduces us to Tauranga's newest – and supremely talented – chefs.

Stacey Jones introduces us to Tauranga's newest – and supremely talented – chefs.

You know you're having a food moment when, 13 years later, you close your eyes and you can still taste it. That happened when I first stepped into the French Café in Auckland and was treated to a deconstructed lemon meringue pie, perfectly executed by Simon Wright. So imagine my delight when I learned that the very same chef behind the infamous citrus dessert was venturing to Tauranga to head up Clarence Bistro. 

Simon Wright of Clarence Bistro

The arrival of new chefs in the Tauranga region is cause for celebration. With the culinary landscape constantly evolving, these talented chefs bring a big dollop of energy, flavours and new ideas.

Simon and his family previously settled in Whangamata after selling the French Café in 2018. A few years down the line, after setting up the renowned Gather & Roam, they felt ready for a new challenge.

Simon explains, “We loved being by the beach, so Tauranga was a lovely, natural transition. It has such a great balance of beach with a cosmopolitan twist.”

“We’re six months in and still finding our feet. We’ve launched a French du jour-style menu in a two- and three-course format to really capture the essence of a bistro. My food philosophy is to use the best of everything. Fish is line-caught, meat is organic or naturally raised, and vegetables are from a collective in Katikati, who are spray-free.”

But it’s not only the CBD that is being treated to some culinary creativity. I was delighted to discover that another passionate chef, Italian Simone Saglia, has taken over the reins of The Trading Post in Paengaroa, together with wife Kylie, who runs the front of the house.

Kylie and Simone Saglia of The Trading Post

“I started cooking and experimenting with food from a very young age,” Simone says. “I would visit my aunt’s house after school, and she would teach me how to cook. Hearing her talk about food, and then tasting how good it was, definitely sparked my interest.”

His journey led him to study at the culinary art school IIS Giolitti Bellisario in Mondovi, honing his skills at Michelin-starred restaurants. Venturing to London, Simone expanded his horizons before an exciting opportunity arose. “One night when working at Harry’s Bar, Neil Perry came into the kitchen and asked if any chefs would like to move to Australia and help him open Rosetta in Melbourne.”

With a culinary style that marries tradition with a modern twist, Simone lets the flavours take centre stage. His standout dishes include must-try lasagna, mouthwatering beef and chamomile ravioli, and exquisite agnolotti del plin with three cheeses.

While we’re on the subject of Italian cooking, meet Stefano Raimondi,
owner of Autentico, another chef who is bringing the essence of Italy to the Bay. He hits the nail on the head when he says, “Italian cooking classes, with a real Italian chef − how could you say no, right?"

Stefano Raimondi of Authentico

Embodying the Mediterranean spirit, his cooking style is a celebration of simplicity and tradition. He explains, “When I'm doing a menu, I usually find a good seasonal product, and my mind starts thinking about possible matching flavours and the best way of treating it. Remembering and mixing dishes learned in almost 20 years of cooking.”

Currently collaborating with Basilico pizzeria making fresh pasta and sauce, owning a food truck called Fritto, and planning pop-up dinners, Stefano has some delicious plans ahead. His classes run most Sunday afternoons and will feature favourites such as mushroom risotto and tiramisu. 

Stefano’s Italian cooking classes

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Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

All aboard

A dedicated rum bar in the Mount is making waves with its refined mixology and sophisticated eats

A dedicated rum bar in the Mount is making waves with its refined mixology and sophisticated eats.

Words Hayley Barnett

It’s official: The rum revival is real. While 2023 is being hailed as the year rum makes its comeback, there’s one new bar and eatery getting fully on board with the trend.

The dynamic duo behind Mount Maunganui’s Brew Co and Hide Thirst and Hunger recently set sail with another gem, Sailor Galley and Rum Bar. Also located along the Mount Main Street, where the now-closed Fish Face eatery was situated, this new project is a labour of love.

When the space came up for sale Matt and Kimberley Hayward jumped at the chance to secure it, with the aim of expanding its back garden terrace for the summer crowds, to take full advantage of the sun-laden deck.

The original plan was to set up a sophisticated wine bar, after the couple recognised a need for bars and eateries targeted at their more mature clientele. But, mulling over the idea, they decided it would be much more fun to do something a little bit different – and more relevant to their sunny seaside surroundings. And so they ran with the idea of a rum bar.

Matt and Kimberley have held true to their promise of sophistication – this isn’t some grubby old sailor’s quarters. The restaurant gives off more of a super yacht vibe. The modern fit-out feels very much like a wine bar, but offers premium rum and delicious cocktails, from local labels like Armada Spirits in Pāpāmoa, to rums further afield like Flor De Caña from Nicaragua.

The menu is suitably sumptuous with dishes like Smoked Bone Marrow on Sourdough and Burnt Butter Crumpet with Blue Swimmer Crab. 

Despite the name, the menu isn't too heavy on seafood. Executive chef Perrin Yates, former chef of Picnicka and Clarence Bistro, has designed a travel-inspired culinary journey offering up a good mix of refined and favourite go-tos – some of which are blended to create something delightfully gourmet yet casual. 

On the snack menu is the popular Boston Crayfish Roll as well as the Parmesan Churros with fire roasted capsicum sauce, both equally tasty.

Regardless of whether you're a sun lover, a rum drinker, or just a fan of good food, Sailor will hit the spot. 

Sailormount.nz

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Rolling in the deep

Mount Maunganui welcomes a restaurant that really is worth its salt.

Mount Maunganui welcomes a restaurant that really is worth its salt.

 WORDS Hayley Barnett

Walking into Saltwater, you can practically smell the sea air and hear the gentle clanging of the docks. Its nautical theming, all clean whites, crisp blues and deep wood instantly reminds you of where you are, and really gets your stomach grumbling for some of Aotearoa’s finest seafood.

There’s a lot to take in and the vibe is buzzing. Diners chatter, the open kitchen is a hive of activity and the lengthy ice bar tempts with a salivating range of freshly caught fish, oysters, scallops, mussels and other seafood delights. 

Everything about this seafood grill and oyster bar, that’s located in the middle of the main strip of Mount Maunganui, feels premium. Everything, that is, except the prices.

“We wanted it to be approachable. We didn’t want a pretentious seafood restaurant that most of the country
can’t go to,” co-owner Nick Potts says. “We wanted fish n’ chips, fish burger, Coromandel mussels. These are all great dishes but we didn’t want a price tag that was unattainable by the public.”

Along with his business partner Jay Thomas, they’ve given classic Kiwi kai an upmarket makeover while keeping a relaxed and welcoming vibe to the restaurant. Along with those favourites, there’s also more exotic dishes like grilled octopus, a soft shell crab burger and freshly prepared sashimi on offer.

And if fish isn’t your dining partner’s bag, there’s a range of non-seafood dishes to try, including Eye Fillet Carpaccio, a beef burger and a coconut curry.

But it’s hard to see your appetite returning to land after grazing the menu and its ocean treats. The calamari came in a jovially light batter and was served with Cajun mayo that had a delicious bite to it. My fiancé enjoyed the prawn po-boy so much he seriously considered ordering another and I couldn’t get enough of those ocean-fresh oysters and mussels. 

“We’ve tried to keep the seafood as the hero of the dish. We haven’t tried to overcomplicate it with huge flavours,” Nick explained. “It’s about the quality of the seafood we’re using. It’s about great food that anyone will enjoy.”

Nick also owns fine-dining restaurant Solera down the road so, as you’d expect, everything here is mouth-wateringly delicious. And, now that it's opened, it’s hard to believe there wasn’t a seafood restaurant of this quality here already. It seems such an obvious fit for the sea-loving folk who live in and around the Mount. 

saltwaterseafood.co.nz

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Home away from home

If Tauranga’s Redoubt Eatery isn’t already your local, get down there for some comfortable vibes, good conversation and signature Sticky Chicken.

If Tauranga’s Redoubt Eatery isn’t already your local, get down there for some comfortable vibes, good conversation and signature Sticky Chicken.

Words Dan Collins  |  Photos Erin Cave

Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came. Those may be the lyrics to the theme tune of the old classic sitcom Cheers, but for Jacob Henderson, proprietor of Redoubt Eatery, they’re words to live by. “Redoubt is your home away from home,” he says when UNO pops in on a sunny Tauranga afternoon. “You get greeted by name. You don’t have to try too hard or try and be cool. It’s that kind of place.”

Situated about halfway down Tauranga’s picturesque promenade of The Strand, it’s that easygoing and down-to-earth attitude that typifies and differentiates the Redoubt experience. It’s welcoming and unpretentious. The kind of place that knows your name and what you drink, and gets them ready for you as you walk in.

“You don’t have to study a wine list that’s got five sauv blancs, you’ve just got the one,” Jacob says by way of example. “It’s good. It’s reliable. You feel safe and comfortable.” Jacob’s fresh perspective on what makes a place worth visiting could stem from the fact that he’s new to the Tauranga scene and excited to be here. “We’ve got one Redoubt Eatery in Morrinsville and one in Matamata,” he says. “We wanted to see if what we do is good enough to work in the big city.”

It may have only opened its doors in August but it certainly seems to be working. There are plenty of people coming through the doors and, most importantly to Jacob, an ever-growing number of regulars settling in and making Redoubt their local.

He describes the move into town as a happy accident. His cousin walked past one day earlier this year and saw that the previous establishment was for sale. He called Jacob, who immediately spotted the potential. “We thought it was the best location, being on the corner here, and with that deck upstairs. Initially, we thought that deck might be a pain, but it’s such a great area. It’s one of the few places along here where you can see out into the harbour.”

Those gorgeous elevated harbour views are bound to make it a favourite for long summer lunches or post-work evening drinks. “Just about every second person is asking for a table up there. We’re praying for that weather!” he jokes.

With seating for 70 people, Redoubt should be able to accommodate most sun-chasers. But to be on the safe side, you can always book a table. In fact, Jacob says, the team are happy to accommodate wherever they can. It’s all part of making Redoubt Eatery feel like a second home. It’s a philosophy that’s come from Redoubt being a part of his family legacy.

“The first Redoubt Eatery opened in 1999 in Te Awamutu. That was opened by my parents,” he says. “In 2002 my wife and I were overseas. My father rang and asked if I wanted to lease the pub. We said yes, came back and leased the pub for about two years while they went overseas.”

When his parents returned, it was obvious there were now too many chefs in the kitchen, so Jacob and his wife started looking around. In 2006 they opened a Redoubt Eatery in Matamata. The original in Te Awamutu was sold around 2016 so is no longer part of the family. However, Matamata was going so well that they opened a Redoubt Eatery in Morrinsville in 2018.

“Morrinsville doesn’t have a huge amount of eateries,” he says. “It’s nice to go to a place where you’re needed and it was a great opportunity. You always like to think you’re pretty cool and that what you do would work everywhere. Morrinsville went really well. When we went from one to two, it didn’t feel like a huge strain. We’ve got a bit of confidence. That’s why we got so excited about The Strand and thought, ‘What we do could work.’”

That said, some things have been tweaked for the Tauranga market. The decor and fit-out is fairly similar, with sports photos and memorabilia – like an autographed Mike Tyson boxing glove and photos of famous local sports heroes – decorating the walls, but the food and drinks menus have been given a slight makeover. Again, with the specific goal of making you feel relaxed.

“We don’t want people to feel intimidated. We don’t want you to have pretend that you know what certain words mean you know,” he laughs. “We want it to be very Kiwi-themed and comfortable. Certainly good and certainly fresh and seasonal. That goes without saying. But I don’t want anyone to feel intimidated when you’re in here. People can pick up the bone and stuff like that.”

He says they kept on some of the staff from the previous establishment, including the head chef Johnny, who presented his new owners with some ideas for the menu. “It was really impressive. His food is bloody good,” Jacob enthuses. “So the menu is different from Matamata and Morrinsville, except for one dish.”

This is Redoubt Eatery’s secret weapon, their hit. The one thing he knew they had to serve. “It’s called the Sticky Chicken. It’s our biggest seller in Matamata. It’s our biggest seller in Morrinsville and now it’s our biggest seller in Tauranga,” he grins as he talks about the chicken dish that comes drizzled in a ginger sauc and served on coconut rice. “It’s comfort food. We can’t take it off. It just goes off. It’s one of the few dishes that’s on the lunch and dinner menu.”

Again, the word “comfort” comes up when Jacob talks about Redoubt. It’s something incredibly important to him, and it turns out there’s a very good reason why. “When I was 19, I was travelling the world and ended up in this town in West Cork, Ireland called Clonakilty. The first day I was there, I went into this pub and the guy behind the bar urged me to try a Murphys and introduced me to a couple of locals. About a week later I was still jobless, running out of money and it was raining. I was thinking my dreams of travelling the world were over. I walked back into the pub and Barry was behind the bar again. He went, ‘Jacob! How are ya mate? Here’s your Murphys.’I just felt like I belonged, and he made me feel special. I thought, ‘This is where I want to be.’ I stayed there for two years. It turned everything around. “That’s what we want to do. It’s so cool to walk in and have someone say, ‘G’day, Jake, here’s your drink.’” 

That’s the vibe Jacob wants to create. A home away from a home. A place where everybody knows your name and… Well, you get the idea. This philosophy of creating a community even  extends to the photos lining the walls. “The vast majority of the pictures on the wall are of Tauranga things, Tauranga heroes or Tauranga villains. We’re always looking to grow that,” he explains before giving an example.

“I was talking to a mate and his son won the New Zealand freestyle scooter award. He’s a kid, 15 years old, and does triple flips and stuff. We’re gonna get his photo and put it up on the wall. He’ll sit next to Kane Williamson there – who goes without introduction,” he says pointing to a blank spot beside the Tauranga-raised Black Caps captain.

“That’s what makes a good local!” Jacob exclaims. “What I want is for you to be able to sit here and go, ‘That’s my bloody neighbour on the wall!' Because then you feel like you belong there. Eventually, these walls will be covered. I want a photo of your second cousin who played hockey for New Zealand in 1985. People like that. I reckon that’s worthy of being on the wall.”

Jacob’s vision for Redoubt Eatery – and, of course, its signature dish, the Sticky Chicken – should ensure it’s a hit. A relaxed place where you can go with your mates to catch up and chill out with a drink or two and grab something delicious to eat. If only there was a word for something like that. Turns out there is. “One of the meanings of the word Redoubt is ‘a place of refuge or safe haven’,” Jacob smiles. “So I quite like that as well.” 

redoubt.nz/the-strand

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Get crafty

If your beer knowledge is a little cloudy, then Mount Brewing Co’s head brewer Pawel Lewandowski is the perfect can-noisseur to clarify the common craft beer varieties.

If your beer knowledge is a little cloudy, then
Mount Brewing Co’s head brewer Pawel Lewandowski is the perfect can-noisseur to clarify the common craft beer varieties.

 Photo + Styling Roz McIntosh

XPA

Golden Hour Hazy XPA 4.7%

Hazy IPA is a unique bond created between malt, hops and yeast and like the name implies it has a cloudy appearance. Golden Hour – Hazy XPA has lower than regular IPA alcohol content, much drier body yet a fruity, juicy hoppy hit (think passionfruit, green pineapple, lime with a touch of coconut) delivered by careful selection of American and New Zealand hops, malts and yeast. 

APA

Mermaid's Mirth 6%

American pale ale replaces traditional English hops with modern bold, citrus, tropical, pine-like American varieties. APA continues to evolve as breweries experiment with different local ingredients. It's one of the most food-friendly beers that goes very well with meat and cheese. We brew our clean, crisp, medium-bodied Mermaid's Mirth only with American hops.

Pilsner

Mountie 5.2%

All pilsners are lagers, but not all lagers are pilsners. Pilsner is always bright in colour, should be more bitter and hoppy than lager yet smoother with more malt characteristics than IPA. Mountie is brewed with four different New Zealand hops, giving it a more grassy, citrusy and bitter flavour than lager, which makes this pilsner a more complex drinking experience.

NZ IPA

Sea Beast 6%

Indian Pale Ale originated in England for shipping to the British colonies in India in the 18th century. It was pale only compared to the usual darker brews of the day, quite hoppy and had a higher alcohol content (a great preservative for the long trip to India). A good example of a modern IPA is our Sea Beast. It's brewed using only Kiwi hops, giving it a gooseberry, citrusy, floral and piney flavour. It's bitter and balanced with arich malt character.  

New England IPA

Crazy Hazy Daze 6.4%

A go-to for lovers of beer in its prime – unfined and unfiltered. Our New England IPA, where bitterness
along with big hoppiness
is balanced with a fuller and rich body, is packed with Citra, Amarillo and Nelson Sauvin hops used only in the whirlpool and dry hop addition, bringing a mango, passionfruit, zesty-like flavour and aroma. 

Lager

Relax it's only a lager 4%

This type of beer tends to be less hoppy than pilsner, easier to drink in bigger quantities and, like Relax, it should be clean, crisp and refreshing. A lager uses simpler ingredients so it's far more difficult to brew nice, clean lager that is free from off flavours — because all the mistakes occurred during the brewing process are much harder to cover, which is why we use the best brewing equipment and processes. 

IG: mountbrewingco.brewery

mountbrewingco.com 

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Fresh Reads, Food + Drink, Food & Drink, PLAY Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, Food + Drink, Food & Drink, PLAY Michele Griffin

Plant-based pleasers

Raglan local Emma Galloway shares some of her most popular recipes from her latest cookbook, Every Day.

Raglan local Emma Galloway shares some
of her most popular recipes from her latest cookbook, Every Day.

Words EMMA GALLOWAY
photos supplied

Emma Galloway’s website, My Darling Lemon Thyme, is responsible for introducing what were once alternative ingredients into many Kiwi homes. These gluten-free, vegan recipes from Every Day are so packed with delicious flavour and nutrition, they might even convince the most ardent meat eater to become flexitarian. From a spicy Vietnamese noodle dish and protein-packed burgers, to the flavourful Middle Eastern pilaf and chocolate-topped cheesecake bars, these recipes will cater to many requisites – but mainly to great taste.

Tempeh + mushroom burgers with smashed avocado

These burger patties keep well in the fridge for a couple of days – chill for at least 30 minutes before cooking because this helps keep them together. Store-bought gluten-free bread has come a long way and good gluten-free burger buns are now readily available. 

Makes 4 | Gluten-free | Vegan

INGREDIENTS 

1 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, finely diced

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

250g button mushrooms, trimmed and finely chopped

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped 

1 tsp paprika

250g packet tempeh, roughly chopped

30g gluten-free breadcrumbs

Fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil, to cook

4 gluten-free burger buns, sliced in half

1 large ripe avocado, smashed in a bowl with a little lemon juice, salt and pepper

Good-quality mayonnaise (vegan or regular), pesto, lettuce or microgreens, red onion, tomato relish and avocado, to serve

Method 

Heat a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add oil and onion and cook, stirring often, for 4–5 minutes or until tender and golden. Add garlic, finely chopped mushroom and thyme and cook, stirring often, for a good 5–8 minutes or more, until the mushrooms have released their juices and these have evaporated, so they’re almost dry, tender and golden (this is important because you don’t want any excess moisture or your patties won’t hold together). Add paprika and cook for a further 20–30 seconds. 

Transfer to a food processor, add tempeh and breadcrumbs and pulse until finely ground. Season with salt and pepper. Shape into 4 large patties, cover and chill for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 days if preparing ahead of time. 

If you don’t have a food processor, finely chop the tempeh, add onion mixture and breadcrumbs then, using your hands, scrunch everything together until it holds its shape. Heat a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add a splash of olive oil and cook the patties for 3–4 minutes on each side, or until golden. Grill buns on the cut side until golden. 

Spread a little mayonnaise and pesto onto the base of each burger bun, then add a patty, a few microgreens or lettuce, some onion slices or pickled red onions. Top with smashed avocado and spread a little relish on the cut side of the top bun and place over.

Note: The patties can be frozen for up to 3 months – just defrost in the fridge overnight before using.

Black pepper tofu bún cha

Bún cha is a grilled pork and noodle dish from Hanoi, Vietnam, served with piles of herbs and the famous nuoc mam cham dipping sauce made with fish sauce, lime/vinegar, sugar, chilli and garlic. Here’s a vegan take, with peppery tofu and a soy sauce-based version of nuoc mam cham, served with tasty sweet and sour Vietnamese pickles which you can make 4 to 5 days in advance and store in the fridge.

Serves 3–4 | Gluten-free | Vegan

Ingredients
DRESSING

2 tbsp gluten-free soy sauce

2 tbsp brown/white rice vinegar

2 tbsp golden caster sugar

1 bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped (de-seed for less heat)

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

BLACK PEPPER TOFU

Coconut or olive oil

300g packet firm tofu, cubed

2 tbsp gluten-free soy sauce

1 tbsp pure maple syrup or golden caster sugar

2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Rice vermicelli, cooked according to packet instructions or soaked in boiling water for 10–15 minutes, then drained

Baby cos lettuce, sliced

Cucumber + mint leaves to serve

Method

To make the dressing, combine dressing ingredients in a small jar and shake well.

To make the black pepper tofu, heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat, add a little oil and pan-fry tofu until golden on all sides. Reduce heat and add soy sauce, maple syrup and black pepper. Continue to cook, stirring often, until the sauce thickens and the tofu is golden and coated.

To serve, arrange rice vermicelli in bowls, top with black pepper tofu, arrange a handful of lettuce leaves, some sliced cucumber and mint leaves in each bowl and drizzle a little dressing over the top.

Carrot + daikon pickles

Ingredients

100ml boiling water

65g (⅓ cup) golden caster sugar

½ tsp fine salt

100ml brown/white rice vinegar

1 carrot, finely shredded (use a mandolin or finely slice with a knife)

1 cup finely shredded daikon (approx ¼ of a large daikon)

Method

To make the pickles, combine boiling water, sugar and salt in a bowl then stir until dissolved. 

Add vinegar and set aside to cool completely, before adding the grated carrot and daikon. 

Mix well and set aside for at least 30 minutes.

Tomato pilaf with black lentils and caramelised onion

This delicious and nutritious almost-one-pan-meal was inspired by Turkish tomato pilaf and Mujadara, a tasty combination of rice, lentils and onions found throughout the Middle East. This dish manages to extract every ounce of flavour from just a handful of simple ingredients. Use puy-style or brown lentils in place of black lentils, if you prefer.

Serves 4 | Gluten-free | Vegan

Ingredients

115g black (beluga) lentils, rinsed well

60ml olive oil

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

250g vine or cherry tomatoes, finely chopped

340g white basmati rice, rinsed and drained well

750ml water

Coriander leaves, roughly chopped, to serve

Caramelised onions

2 tbsp olive oil

3 onions, finely sliced

Fine salt, to taste

Method

Place lentils into a small saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until just tender. Drain and set aside.

Heat a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add oil and garlic and cook for 30 seconds, before adding chopped tomato. Cook, stirring often, for 3–4 minutes, or until soft and juicy.
Add rice and stir then add water and a good pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid, reduce heat to low and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside with the lid on for a further 10 minutes.

To make the caramelised onions, as soon as your rice is happily cooking away, heat oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring often, for 20–25 minutes or until deeply golden, taking care in the final 5–10 minutes to ensure the bottom doesn’t catch and burn. Season with salt. These can be prepared in advance and will store in a glass jar in the fridge for up to 3 days.

When the rice is cooked, remove the lid, stir through lentils, adjust seasoning if needed and serve topped with caramelised onions and chopped coriander.

Cardamom + dark chocolate “cheesecake” bars 

A great make-ahead dessert as it stores 4–5 days in the fridge. Use freshly ground cardamom seeds for fuller flavour but cardamom spice works fine, too. Start this recipe the night before to soak the cashews. Tip: Cashew pieces are cheaper than whole ones and give the same result.

Makes 12–14 slices | Gluten-free | Vegan

Ingredients
Base

240g dried pitted dates, roughly chopped

100g raw almonds

1 tbsp virgin coconut oil, melted

Filling

375g raw cashew nuts, soaked overnight in cold water and drained well

185ml virgin coconut oil, melted

125ml freshly squeezed lemon juice

125ml pure maple syrup

2 tsp vanilla extract

¼ tsp fine salt

2 tsp ground cardamom

Chocolate topping

85g dairy-free dark chocolate, roughly chopped

60ml coconut milk

2 tbsp pure maple/brown rice syrup

Method

Soak the cashews overnight.

To make the cheesecake base, line a 28cm x 18cm slice tin with baking paper, overlapping the sides by 2cm. Put the pitted dates, almonds and melted coconut oil into a food processor and pulse until finely ground. Press the mixture into the tin, using the back of a spoon to pack it in firmly.

To make the filling, place all the filling ingredients into a high-powered blender and blend on high until smooth. If you don’t have a high-powered blender, finely grind the cardamom seeds in a mortar and pestle first, before adding to the blender. Pour the mixture over the base and smooth the top. Allow to set in the fridge for at least 6 hours or preferably overnight.

To make the chocolate topping, place the dark chocolate into a small heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of boiling water, making sure the water doesn’t touch the bottom of the bowl. Add the coconut milk and the maple/brown rice syrup and heat gently until melted. If it starts to look a little split (this can happen because of the coconut milk), whisk to bring it back together into a smooth sauce. When just melted, remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly, before spreading over the cheesecake. Return to the fridge until set. Once set, slice into 12–14 bars, using a sharp knife warmed under running hot water.


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Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

Pearl of the Bay

Good food, good coffee and good vibes are top priorities for the new owners of Papamoa’s award-winning Pearl Kitchen.

Good food, good coffee and good vibes are top priorities for
the new owners of Pāpāmoa’s award-winning Pearl Kitchen.

Words Monique Balvert-O’Connor Photos Rachel Hadfield

Nestled in the heart of Coast Boulevard in Pāpāmoa Beach, Pearl Kitchen has become an iconic spot, with an amazing team behind it.

A relaxed place, with an ethos centred on delivering “banging coffee, delicious food and vibrant staff”, it's the perfect place to enjoy hearty food packed with ingredients by local growers and suppliers. And it’s also a “go to” on Friday night, offering drinks, tapas and gourmet pizza, to unwind after the working week.

How good does all that sound? It gets better. Pearl Kitchen is the winner of the most recent Bay Hospitality Awards’ Outstanding Café accolade.

To its many loyal followers, the award was no surprise. Just ask one customer who travels from Whakatāne and back specifically for breakfast Pearl Kitchen style. And, in the words of a local: “Gorgeous and well thought out design and layout, fabulous service, delicious and interesting food, perfect coffee, atmosphere, and diet choice sensitivity from staff.”

It's little wonder that Chanel and Justin Rawiri are immensely proud to now own this winning eatery. They’re quick to assure little will be changing, although, of course, a seasonally appropriate menu will be introduced in late October (with the old faves remaining).

“We couldn’t be more excited to join such a talented team and amazing community,” Justin says.

“The key message from us is that we fell in love with Pearl Kitchen just the way it is, so aren’t planning to make any significant changes. It will be the same great team, relaxing vibe, scrumptious food and delicious coffee."

The whole team remains, led by Nigel Reid and Kirsty Moore. Along with key staff David Stuart and Tanesha Horsburgh, all were instrumental in the café’s award-winning success, and are celebrated members of the Pearl Kitchen team with serious credentials, Justin praises.

Chef Nigel Reid started his career as protégé of top New Zealand chef Simon Gault. After a seven-year stint overseas, Nigel returned to become Simon's right-hand man as group head chef for the Nourish Group. Cooking in London for a group of restaurants (under the Cubitt House umbrella), he had the opportunity to serve some of the world's elite and even some royals. Back in New Zealand he’s played an integral part in setting up top eateries. He includes Pearl Kitchen on that list. 

Nigel, who loves people who love food, can be found front and centre in Pearl's open kitchen warmly welcoming its patrons each day. His recipes are inspired by travel, family and the seasons. 

“Creating and leading with passion, I share my own brand of honest and exciting cookery,” he says.

Front-of-house manager Kirsty Moore hails from Edinburgh, Scotland. Armed with a degree in History of Art and Design and a Master’s degree in marketing, she arrived in New Zealand six years ago seeking a complete lifestyle change after working as a marketing manager. Queenstown beckoned and she managed Mrs Ferg (part of the famous Fergburger empire) there. Tauranga has been home for two years. There’s much to love about working at Pearl Kitchen, she says, such as the great work-life balance, family culture, love for customers, fun environment and delicious food.

David Stuart also hails from Edinburgh and happens to be engaged to Kirsty. David studied Culinary Arts and Food Preparation and worked as a chef in Vietnam, then in Melbourne, and also at an award-winning cocktail bar (with a focus on small bites) in Edinburgh. Add to that five years clocked up as head chef of a Mexican restaurant in Queenstown, before moving to Pearl Kitchen as sous chef. His experience and knowledge of Asian-style dishes influences Pearl Kitchen’s much-enjoyed Friday night tapas menu.

Rosario Ross Murro identified his passion for pizza at an early age – he began work as a pizza chef at 14! From Puglia, Italy (a region known for its great food and beaches), Rosario makes a true Italian-style pizza with hand-stretched sourdough and fresh ingredients, cooked in Pearl Kitchen’s wood-fired oven. He has been in New Zealand for four years, working in Melbourne beforehand.

Love a good cocktail? If yes, then chances are you may already know of Tanesha Horsburgh. This Pāpāmoa local studied Food and Beverage Hotel Management before finding her niche in hospitality. She moved from Auckland to help open Pearl Kitchen, where she now looks after the bar and drinks menu. Her Friday night cocktail specials are a highlight of the week for many customers.

As for new owners, Chanel and Justin, they’re proud to have such an excellent team of 17, and excited to be part of the greater Pearl Kitchen community. The couple moved from Auckland with their young apprentices – Charlotte (4) and Georgia (2.5) – to a region that was already familiar. Justin grew up in Tauranga, and both have family here. 

“We are both foodies and we bought Pearl Kitchen because we love it," says Chanel. "We look forward
to becoming part of such a great community." 

Pearl Kitchen, 20 Coast Boulevard
Open: Saturday – Thursday 8am–2pm
Friday 8am–8pm (Happy Hour 4pm-6pm)

Pearlkitchen.co.nz

Insta: pearlcafecoast

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Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

Perfect match

These scintillating summer pours from Mount Brewing Co. will tantalise your tastebuds and keep you cool on the hot, sunny days to come. Find your favourite and match with our delicious meal suggestions.

These scintillating summer pours from Mount Brewing Co. will tantalise your tastebuds and keep you cool on the hot, sunny days to come. Find your favourite and match with our delicious meal suggestions.

Words Hayley Barnett / Photo Emma Galloway

Feijoa GIN & TONIC - Tempting tangy tipple

You can’t go past the sweet-yet-tart taste of the country’s favourite seasonal fruit, the humble feijoa. Meal match with your favourite blue cheese and a drizzle of honey for a complementary kick.

Peach & Apricot GIN & SODA - Fresh and delicate

Two summer stone fruits, muddled with gin and soda, this mix creates a drink that’s perfect for the beach and beyond. When dining at home match with the spicy heat of a rogan josh.

Pink GIN & TONIC - Charm in a can

Crisp premium gin and tonic comes blended with juicy red raspberries, to give it a taste to die for. Pair with lamb kebabs cooked in a berry marinade and, voilà, you have your barbecue menu sorted.

Classic APPLE CIDER - Cool, timeless classic

Traditionally made apple cider is given a makeover by blending it with fresh and juicy apples. Not too sweet, not too dry, apple cider is perfectly matched with a roast pork fillet salad.

Dark n’ Stormy CIDER - Spice up your life

Real ginger, molasses and spices make up this unique and delicious cider. With a medium-sweet cider base, the aroma is familiar, but really kicks off when paired with a spiced ginger pud. 

Strawberry & Lime CIDER - Here comes the sun

Cool down with a fruity thirst-quenching cider. Strawberry and zesty lime offer a medium sweetness and tart finish when matched with a savoury strawberry salad. 

Tart Rhubarb Cider - Sharp yet refreshing

Perfect for spring, this distinctive cider will hit the spot with rhubarb lovers. It’s fun, it’s elegant and it’s particularly delightful when paired with a creamy carbonara.

mountbrewingco.com

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Fresh reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin Fresh reads, PLAY, Food & Drink Michele Griffin

Sister act

Good things come in threes – and Nectar, the third hospitality venue from sisters Jess Mackenzie and Shelby Rafferty, certainly brings charm and class to Tauranga’s social scene.

Good things come in threes – and Nectar, the third hospitality venue from sisters Jess Mackenzie and Shelby Rafferty, certainly brings charm and class to Tauranga’s social scene.

Words Monique Balvert-O’Connor / Photos Erin Cave + supplied

When Jessica (Jess) Mackenzie and Shelby Rafferty say Tauranga’s new hospitality offering named Nectar delivers something excitingly different for the city, best believe them.

Not only are the two sisters the owners/creators of Nectar, they also know their patch. Located at 97 The Strand, Nectar is but a hop, skip, and jump from The Crown and Badger and Volare – both owned by this young duo. Jess (30) and her parents bought Crown and Badger five years ago, and about a year ago, Shelby (26) returned from her nursing job – and lengthy pandemic lockdowns – in Melbourne to secure an ownership interest in all three places. Jessica has assured her there will be time for a breather on the buying front now that property number three has been purchased! After all, the sisters are “super excited” about Nectar and are loving watching an appreciative public become acquainted with this new offering on the block.

It's hard, they say, to define Nectar’s “excitingly different” vibe within a mere sentence. So, they offer a few…

“It’s a premium venue without the pretentiousness. It’s a place to hang out and it incorporates some Melbournian kind of fun.

“It’s an all-day eatery (a day and night place), a place to relax with special occasion food in an inviting atmosphere. 

“Think big-city vibes, not standard café food. It’s not a café and not a wine bar. The food’s delicious and flavour-wise diners can expect to be pushed and challenged. There are lots of sharing plates to suit Nectar’s social theme.

“There are couches by the fire, high leaners, mid-height leaners, tables, and booths. There are power plugs and USB chargers everywhere as Nectar is wired for connectivity. It really is a hangout.

“It offers a sense of elegance. It’s also relaxing and classy, approachable and fun. It’s a balance between lots of wonderful things – and a place where people want to be.” 

It is also an undeniably beautiful place, in terms of both locality and décor. Jess has been making eyes at the building (long-time home to Japanese restaurant Tikara) for the last four years. 

“I have stared out at it from the Crown and Badger, thinking, ‘I need that big site with its full sun.’ When I knew it was coming up, I knew we had to get in quick. It’s so beautiful, and has water views too,” she enthuses. The corner site can sit 48 inside comfortably, but 150 all up when the pavement area is included.  

Sitting inside is inarguably a delight, thanks to interiors with wow. 

“There’s greenery galore – it’s a bit of a jungle,” Shelby laughs, adding that there’s a lot going on, but it works so well. Décor delights include glossy green tiles, oak features including a wall in a stunning herringbone pattern, hand-blown glass light fittings of varying shapes, gorgeous upholstery, rimu and tawa floorboards, and walls of green (painted by Shelby and Jess). There’s also rainforest-themed wallpaper and a dramatic, 2.5 metre-tall mural featuring a woman at one with plants. It’s “unique and empowering and perfect.”

The seating booths and oak features were created by Christchurch company Harrows, and Auckland’s Sophie Burns of Burning Red Interior Design masterminded the interior design. Other than that, the focus was very much on local creatives, from both the big details to the small. The entire fit out was tackled by Mt Maunganui-based Ramma Construction, the dramatic mural is the work of local artist Millie Newitt, and the water jugs are from the pottery wheels of Waihi’s Laughing Pottery. As for the logistical side of things, Jess, who has a management degree and extensive international hospitality experience, did much of the project management too, working alongside the Ramma Construction team. 

Being hands-on and full-on is how Jess and Shelby rock. But they have, of course, called on key people as part of Nectar’s ongoing team. People like Martin Allan, who designed the menu and is executive chef (he’s ensured there’s lots of plant-based food, and meat and fish can certainly be found on the menu). And people like bar manager Katie Short, who has created cocktails especially for Nectar. 

“She does a bloody good Bloody Mary and a magnificent matcha cocktail called You’ve Met Your Matcha,” Shelby attests. Nectar also boasts an extensive and very good wine list and great coffee, too.

Also an integral part of the team is Jess and Shelby’s mother, who still does the books but admits it’s quite tricky these days with so many moving parts. Their “very grounded” dad remains an encouraging mentor, who keeps them moving forward. The couple (who raised their children in Gisborne) have retired to Russell, happily leaving their daughters to thrive at the coalface. And thriving they are.

Says Jess, “It’s been a long journey and a big logistical exercise. We signed the lease about 18 months ago, but have been dreaming it up for a long time.  

“We are super excited about this, and super excited for Tauranga, too.”

@nectar.eatery

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Creating and innovating

Creating and innovating. Hospitality really is at the heart of this restaurant.

Hospitality really is at the heart of this restaurant.

Words Nicky Adams Photos supplied

Bethlehem’s Somerset Cottage has something of a multi-faceted footing in the food world. In addition to offering an unforgettable dining experience, it runs cook schools and provides the option of accommodation in an architecturally designed adjoining studio. It is unique not just because of its ‘dine, learn, stay’ ethos, but also because, under owner/operator husband and wife team Anne and Rick, Somerset Cottage has been creating cherished food memories for over 36 years, which in hospitality is monumental. 

Anne and Rick are respectively front of house and chef, and a mutual respect of the importance of each other’s roles goes a long way in their recipe for success. Anne has a unique gift in that she combines an efficient professional manner with friendliness and open humour. Rick is reserved, with modesty masking his mastery and expertise. He is miles away from the stereotype of bullish, egotistical chefs – in fact the thought of him raising his voice, throwing a tanty or melting down over a split sauce is frankly laughable. 

This calm, understated vibe is what defines Somerset Cottage, and the fact that Anne and Rick actively shy away from the limelight is in some way what has allowed them to seamlessly evolve from the small BYO restaurant that started in July 1986, to offering the symbiotic foodie experience that they excel in today. 

With a keen eye on the advances in dining expectations, they understand the need to move with the times. As Anne points out; “We’ve evolved on a food front, but also on a wine front – the drinks are no longer just about wine, increasingly it’s about cocktails and non-alcoholic options. Food has progressed immensely: people’s dietary requirements have necessitated that. We’ve embraced a vegan menu – as a long-established restaurant you have to offer the dishes that you are strongly associated with, but at the same time if regular customers don’t see change, some of them critique that - hence our weekly menu that accommodates the seasons.” Ironically, a regular diner I spoke to tells me, she often feigns delight at the array – then circles back to the tried-and-tested favourite dish, Sauteed Squid, every time.

While the food is exquisite – so much so that my visiting best friend smuggled vacuum-packed items back to Melbourne with her – the cook schools are at once informative, interactive, engaging, and entertaining. Held with Rick demonstrating and Anne explaining, the intimate vibe and the wealth of knowledge means that even the most timid home cook comes away with tips and the know-how to recreate restaurant-quality dishes. After the cooking demonstration the group together enjoy a long lunch and paired wine: the bonhomie and jokes flow as freely as the wine, and Anne remarks with obvious pleasure that “it just works.”

With the cook schools attracting participants far and wide, Anne and Rick made the decision to build a loft-style studio next door. According to Anne, “We had a vision – a small, intimate space that’s all about the bush - a space to decompress.” Whether just for a ‘staycation’ or to visit the restaurant or cook school, it’s a stunning stand-alone experience.

With a stubborn determination to remain under the radar, Somerset Cottage is a beguiling mix. It offers world-class food yet prizes the relationships with its customers above any accolade. While moving with the times – you’ll find Anne gleefully telling tales of sourcing the latest New Zealand distilleries – some things haven’t changed for 30 years; you will no more find yourself charged for your side dish than be allocated a restricted dining time slot. You are here for the experience – and the team will do its best to ensure it’s an unforgettable one.

Somersetcottage.co.nz

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