POLES APART
Penguins or polar bears? Are Antarctica and the Arctic similar or poles apart? Sarah Porter from Wild Earth Travel, supplier to YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem, sailed as a guest on the French ship, Ponant Le Commandant Charcot.
Penguins or polar bears? Are Antarctica and the Arctic similar or poles apart? Sarah Porter from Wild Earth Travel, supplier to YOU Travel & Cruise Bethlehem, sailed as a guest on the French ship, Ponant Le Commandant Charcot.
Understanding the difference between these two regions at the opposite ends of the globe starts with simple geography. Antarctica is a frozen continent surrounded by ocean; the Arctic is frozen sea surrounded by land.
The Arctic region extends over Canada, Alaska, Greenland, Russia, Norway and Iceland, which are all homes to native communities. Antarctica does not belong to any country and has many scientific bases, but no permanent inhabitants.
WILDLIFE
Wildlife is one of the biggest differences between the polar regions. My first view of Antarctic wildlife on South Shetland Island was a shoreline covered in penguins and seals, whales not far off land. Human contact is limited in the Antarctic which makes the animals fearless and inquisitive and penguins will likely come and inspect your boots.
The word Arctic is derived from the Greek ‘arktos’ meaning’ bear’, and one of the main reasons to visit the Arctic is to see the polar bear. Arctic foxes, reindeer, walrus, musk ox, seals and whales are also found in the north, as well as birdlife.
I visited the Arctic on a journey to East Greenland on the world’s only luxury ice breaker, Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot, at the beginning of the season. We came across a whale carcass wedged between two ice sheets, a natural buffet attracting an astounding 68 polar bears, a first even for our captain and our Inuit ‘polar bear spotters’.
PEOPLE
The six countries of the Arctic region create diversity in culture, language and customs, though sharing traditional livelihoods like f ishing and hunting. As our Greenlandic guides kept watch for polar bears, I learnt what it is like to live in in complete darkness for much of the year and how their community of Ittoqqortoormiit (the most remote in the world) is only accessible by helicopter for nine months due to frozen sea ice.
On the Le Soleal in Antarctica I enjoyed chats with people posted at the bases and stations over the summer season, but there are no ‘locals’ in Antarctica. On both voyages historians within the ship’s expedition teams shared stories and insights into the early explorers, from Erik the Red in Greenland to Scott, Shackleton and other Antarctic explorers.
ICE
Ice became a topic of surprise and delight as I learnt how different it is in each region and how many forms it takes — fast ice, first-year ice, brash ice, pack ice and, of course, ice bergs (to name a few!). Sea ice in the Arctic freezes in winter and melts during summer. Antarctica is not constrained by landmasses so sea ice spreads over a much larger area. Antarctic glaciers are much bigger than those of the Arctic, the Arctic icebergs more jagged in shape.
SEASONS
You can only travel to Antarctica in summer (November – March), with the ice more pristine and the penguins courting early in the season. In February and March you see penguin chicks and March is best for whale watching. The Arctic summer is peak tourist season with longer days (the midnight sun) and milder temperatures for outdoor activities.
Many visit in winter to see the northern lights. Which wins? I loved both for the sense of vastness and unexpected wildlife encounters, the deafening silence and magical atmosphere. Seeing 68 bears made the Arctic my favourite voyage, however Antarctica would be my favourite destination. I’d return to both in a heartbeat for I have only experienced the very tip of the iceberg.
A fine balance
YOU Travel’s Brenda Stephen experienced sensory exhilaration and soulful serenity on a recent Uniworld trip: India’s Golden Triangle and the Sacred Ganges.
YOU Travel’s Brenda Stephen experienced sensory exhilaration and soulful serenity on a recent Uniworld trip: India’s Golden Triangle and the Sacred Ganges.
WORDS Liz French
The spectacular Taj Mahal.
How to compare the experience of sunrise at the Taj Mahal with that of visiting the Calcutta Rescue Centre that supports children from the slums? “Wonder and awe for one and touched at the heart by the other,” says Brenda.
This is India, land of colour and contrasts, pace and peace. Uniworld’s tour delves right in by pairing the classic golden triangle of New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur with visits to rural communities off the beaten track. This provides a fine balance between the experience of huge cities with fabulous hotels and that of cruising the Ganges, mooring at villages seldom on travel itineraries.
The trip begins on land with five luxurious nights in the Golden Triangle, staying in Oberoi hotels. Each property exudes its own distinct personality and sense of place which delighted Brenda. “Agra’s Oberoi Amarvilas has a view of the Taj Mahal from every room and is just 600 metres from the Taj itself,” she explains. “Rose petals wafted from the roof as we arrived at Jaipur’s Oberoi Rajvilas, which is set around an ancient Shiva temple on 32 manured acres.”
The hotels are oases of calm after daily excursions by tuktuk, rickshaw or coach, with local guides, where you embrace the unique architecture, atmosphere and culture of each destination without worrying about the logistics.
Five-star floating
Then it’s onto your floating hotel after a flight to Kolkata to embark Uniworld’s Ganges Voyager II, the last word in riverboat luxury. The boat holds 56 passengers, 36 crew and colonially inspired suites with vantage points for watching the light over this everchanging river, sacred and central to life in the fertile and densely populated Ganges Delta.
This is home for the next seven nights. While the ship sails gently up the Ganges you settle into serenity, sip cocktails on the deck, dine on an Indian and international menu with ingredients from the local villages you visit enroute and even learn Indian culinary skills in cooking demonstrations. Informative nightly talks prepare you for your daily adventures, which include a river port dating to 1809 with magnificent Hindu temples, an authentic artisan market in a riverside village and the “Garden of Happiness”. Local guides complement the vast knowledge of the onboard experts.
Happiness is also wellness on the Ganges Voyager II, with daily yoga classes on the sundeck and Ayurvedic spa treatments and massages. “Very soothing after a day’s sightseeing!” Brenda enthuses.
At YOU Travel and Cruise the experienced staff are not about enabling you to simply tick off your bucket list. The question, “What do you want to get out of it?” is as important as, “Where do you want to go?”
If India really appeals, but you are a little apprehensive, and if you want to revel in its infinite variety without sweating the small stuff, group travel is the answer. Uniworld’s boutique itinerary exposes you to India’s myriad of sights, smells and sounds while providing a peaceful refuge to recover and recharge ready for the next foray into the unknown, with every detail thought of.
While this journey only covered a small corner of India, it has whetted Brenda’s appetite for more. “Because I was with a group, I did not find it daunting, quickly becoming comfortable with India’s ‘normal’,” she says. “Despite the luxury aspect of this tour, a big takeaway for me was the spirituality of the people and the joy in simplicity,” she says. “India is like Africa. It gets under your skin.”