MELBOURNE IN MOTION

Melbourne is a city of all things to all people, yet it’s as individual as the people who inhabit it. And it’s a place that has Jo Ferris captivated.

I last visited Melbourne 28 years ago, to see The Three Tenors on the MCG’s hallowed grounds. Previous trips include tennis at the Australian Open and catching up with ex-pats in the suburbs. After so long, thoughts of reviving memories certainly whet the appetite.

Keith Urban rocking his guitar riffs was the reason for this trip. However, my foodie friend and I were keen to tempt our taste buds as well — all in just five days.

Given New Zealand’s entire population f its in this eclectic city, exploring everything is impossible. Melbourne is vast. It stops a nation every year for the Melbourne Cup. It’s home of Aussie rules footie and arguably Australia’s soul of culture and cuisine.

A city of immense diversity, it is the 10th largest immigrant population among world metropolitan areas, with around 100 different ethnicities. From Greek to Arabic, Vietnamese to Mandarin, strolling Melbourne’s inner sanctum is akin to mingling amid melodious bird chatter.

Downtown truly buzzes. And, amazingly, everyone is friendly. Helpful too, when you need help with trams.

DO

Melbourne’s free tram system has to be one of its best attractions. While free only within the city centre, routes include all that makes Melbourne unique. Modern trams have replaced Melbourne’s iconic vehicles of the past. However, one trip remains for these distinctive trundlers, as synonymous with Melbourne’s history as Flinders Rail Station.

Route 35 starts near this station — a scenic circuit that departs every 12 minutes, passing notable landmarks and an audio commentary enhancing the experience. Enjoy the free journey as a complete tour, or hop on and off to explore Melbourne’s wider city attractions.

Having also paid for a day ticket on either trams or trains, we asked a friendly copper the best place to go. St Kilda was the instant response. More specifically, Acland Street, last cab on the rank — and a great tip.

Acland Street is home to artisans and foodies. Pavements are festooned with fashion racks; shop windows are adorned with patisseries that put kilos on just looking at them. Wisely avoiding those, we plumped for a pub lunch, before the return trip, past Lunar Park, Docklands and historic landmarks.

QUEEN VICTORIA MARKET

You could spend a week in Queen Victoria Market and probably still not explore everything. The indoor food hall is a banquet of extraordinary proportions. The chatter and banter, smells and samples have to be seen to be believed. This, even before you wander into the craft market and aisles of treasures, clothing and jewellery. And that’s just during the day. Throughout the seasons, night markets take control each Wednesday. Luckily, we caught the last of the winter series. A smorgasbord of international foodie flavours and fashion — nirvana on steroids!

EAT

Melbourne is legendary for its market fare and laneway eateries. With only days to absorb it, our focus was downtown. A stone’s-throw from Flinders Station, Degraves Street is a city favourite. Flanked by restaurants, umbrella seating dominating the lane’s no-vehicle thoroughfare, staff on sidewalks vie for custom; blackboard specials at their side and menu in hand. Lygon Street — famously known as ‘Little Italy’ — is Melbourne’s birthplace of café culture.

After a free tram leg from the city centre, it’s an easy walk to this precinct, past the historic Melbourne Gaol, if you want a sideline attraction. Good to know: Restaurants only come alive as day turns towards evening.

Arriving mid-afternoon, we opted for a sweet treat. Tiramisu — shared, thanks to its gargantuan serving for one!

STAY

Choosing where to stay boils down to what you want to do and how long you have. Being closest to the action was a priority — and affordability. Mercure Melbourne Southbank fitted the bill nicely.

Sitting opposite Flinders Station on the other side of the Yarra River, it was both central and affordable, taxis conveniently outside the front door. To the tennis centre for Keith Urban’s concert, it was around AU$45; and from AU$85 to AU$100 one way to the airport. With twin rooms costing between AU$250 and AU$285, there’s a restaurant if you want. Obviously, we avoided it. This is Melbourne, after all.

Just a five-minute walk away is the Casino by the Yarra River and riverboat restaurants for a true tourist experience, as well as eateries galore within cooee.

As a short hop across the ditch, you can’t beat Melbourne’s inner-city vibe. Its high-rise architecture is mesmerising — sexy with its glistening rainbow of glass-wall artistry; and simply dazzling at night.

After a week basking in it and memories renewed, I’m not waiting another 28 years to return.

HISTORIC, LEGENDARY, UNMISTAKABLE

• Wominjeka (welcome) – acknowledges Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung and Bunurong/Boon Wurrung, the First Peoples of Narrm (Melbourne).

• Flinders Street Station is Australia’s oldest train station, and busiest in the southern hemisphere.

• Free inner-city transport includes the historic W-class trams on Route 35. This City Circle tram passes Melbourne Aquarium, Docklands, Federation Square, Parliament House and St Paul’s Cathedral, among other landmarks.

• Myki is a reusable travel card and ticket for trains, trams and buses. Buy and top up at numerous shops, including 7-Eleven stores.

• CBD landmarks include Yarra River, river boats and walkways, MCG, Melbourne Park sports entertainment precinct, Federation Square, Parliament House, Crown Casino, Arts Centre, Melbourne Sky Deck, Old Melbourne Gaol, Docklands, China Town, among others.

• Queen Victoria Market dates back 140 years; with its historic Meat and Fish Hall, fresh produce, arts and crafts. Seasonal night markets run on Wednesdays, while markets elsewhere have their own distinctive vibe.

• Destination shopping includes Myers, David Jones, Collins Street boutiques, Emporium Melbourne and Melbourne Central centre.