Hayley Barnett discovers the perfect itinerary for a weekend getaway in another glorious Bay, the delightfully decadent Hawke’s Bay region.

As the end of the year began hurtling towards us at breakneck speed, my husband and I decided an indulgent weekend escape from the chaos was just what we needed. For a couple of foodies and fairly inexperienced winos, Hawke’s Bay proved the place to unwind and reconnect.

About four hours drive from the Bay of Plenty, Hawke’s Bay is made up of three main centres – Havelock North, Napier and Hastings. Though there are excellent taxi and Uber services, we opted to drive, enjoying the freedom to move at our own pace, while still using taxis and bikes between wineries.

Havelock North was our first stop, and our base for the night. This charming town has an unexpectedly abundant array of beautiful clothing boutiques, cafes and gift stores that could easily consume hours of wandering. But we weren’t here to shop. We were here for the wine, and focus was key.

Arriving at Smith & Sheth, a wine lounge (or wine library) and cellar door, we immediately realised the bar was set high. We were welcomed by Sean, head sommelier, who has worked alongside Steve Smith for the past decade. Steve has a formidable reputation, establishing Craggy Range in Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough, and achieving the highly-coveted Master of Wine in under two years, a process that usually takes much longer. When he met Brian Sheth, an investor, wildlife conservationist and wine lover from Austin, Texas, they created Cru, an exceptional range of wines that we were lucky to sample inside what could only be described as a wine cinema. Here, we learned the differences between blends and the production process. The experience is thoughtfully curated and offers an intimate and fresh way to explore wine, without leaving town.

Located within the same building as Smith & Sheth’s wine lounge, Porters Boutique Hotel & Conference Centre is elegant, understated and perfectly situated for those wanting to immerse themselves in Havelock North. Every detail, from soft lighting to attentive service, made us feel cocooned from the world, even though we were just steps away from boutique cafes, artisan stores and wine bars. We could have spent hours in our spacious suite, but a date with one of the region’s premiere wine festivals awaited in neighbouring Hastings.

Just a 10-minute drive from Havelock North, Hastings recently earned a reputation for sophistication. Modern bars, cafes, restaurants and shops have transformed it into a lively hub. That evening, we made our way through stalls from winemakers across Hawke’s Bay at Taste Hastings and learned all about the region’s wine culture, chatting with stall holders and dancing to live bands and DJs on every corner. It was a great way to get a feel for the craftsmanship and amazing community vibe. From there, a taxi whisked us to one of the region’s most iconic wineries for a very different experience.

Our visit to Craggy Range did not disappoint. As the sun set, Te Mata Valley glowed with a magical, hazy light across the vines. We were there to try The Loft, a new dining experience above the main restaurant. Having made our way up the winding staircase, we were greeted by low lighting and an intimate setting. Tables were arranged in a semi-circle in front of the chefs and wood-fired oven. From the first bite to the last, the experience was flawless. Chef Casey McDonald takes diners on a culinary journey reflecting the dishes he loves to cook at home. The ‘Sprung’ spring menu celebrated seasonal ingredients with highlights including crayfish croissants and baked camembert.

The next morning, we discovered a delightful gem just minutes from the hotel. This family run cafe was filled to the brim with diners, but we managed to secure a table under a portrait of Maina, matriarch and inspiration behind the kitchen. The coffee was expertly crafted, complemented by poached eggs atop sourdough with avocado pea smash, feta, beetroot pur.e and hazelnut dukkha. Though satisfying, I wondered if it was the best prelude to a strenuous pilates reformer class.

I needn’t have worried. Alma Studio offered a surprisingly transformative start to the day. While my husband opted for an extended infrared sauna session, I tackled my first pilates reformer class. Instructor and owner Danielle ensured the exercises were accessible, and each movement left me feeling lengthened and invigorated, a perfect counterbalance to our indulgent culinary adventures. Alma’s approach blends mindfulness, breath, strength and awareness, and put us in a great headspace to explore more of Hawke’s Bay.

Energised, we headed to Napier to hire e-bikes at Takaro Trails in Ahuriri. The route towards Taradale via Bayview promised stunning scenery. The path traces the harbour and wetlands, which made it feel strangely relaxing and adventurous at the same time. Informative signs along the way highlighted local wildlife, and the views were nothing short of breathtaking. When we realised we were late for lunch we simply turned it up a notch and “cycled” along the track with gusto.

Arriving at one of Hawke's Bay's most awarded wineries, Church Road, it was clear we were in for a treat. Despite setting up for a wedding, staff accommodated us with a wine tasting. Sampling four wines from the prestigious TOM range, named after Hawke’s Bay wine pioneer Tom McDonald, we were guided through the complex flavour profiles by a knowledgeable sommelier. The experience was as much a history lesson as it was a tasting.

Before long, it was time to jump on a Takaro Trails shuttle back to Napier, where our indulgence continued at The National Gin Distillery. Housed in a restored art deco building, the distillery is still filled with memorabilia from its days as the National Tobacco Company, providing a very fun and eclectic tour for visitors. At the bar, gin guru Ginny (yes, that’s her real name) and co-owner/distiller Blair guided us through botanicals, distillation techniques and flavour profiles. Together, the pair balance creativity with local charm.

After hours of trying the many flavours Blair had concocted over the years, we headed off to our next accommodation. Tonight we were staying at the Art Deco Masonic Hotel in Napier. Entering the building was like stepping into a time machine. The iconic architecture, geometric lines and period detailing immediately set a tone of sophistication. Our Anna Pavlova suite, named after the celebrated dancer who stayed here in 1926, offered a shared balcony perfect for people-watching.

The stay was an experience in itself, but our hunger forced us back out the door. Just a short walk away, Mister D bistro turned out to the perfect choice for dinner. Combining music, wine and food, the bistro describes itself as “a little bit country and a little bit rock ‘n’ roll”, but it’s also a lot about flavour. Each plate showcased seasonal ingredients and inventive pairings, and highlights included duck risotto, baked cheesecake and the signature injectable donuts.

The next day we emerged bleary-eyed and on the hunt for something sweet to take the edge off. Baked Cafe, housed in the old Central Fire Station, offered just what we were looking for. The aroma of freshly baked bread and pastries promised simple pleasures executed perfectly. We shared a ham and mortadella pastry and a hazelnut-chocolate croissant, accompanied by impeccably balanced flat whites. We tucked in and fueled up before we took off for our next activity.

The best way to explore Napier is by vintage car, so we headed across the road to the Art Deco Centre. Our driver, in period attire, transported us through the 1930s, narrating the story of the devastating earthquake and the town’s rapid reconstruction.

As we cruised past pastel facades, waving to curious passers-by, Napier's glamour was well and truly on show and we were wholly swept up in its charm.

We were then dropped at Roam Cafe, which is tucked inside one of the Six Sisters buildings and offers a relaxed lunch with views of the water. The Nashville Hot Chicken burger was a hangover-curing triumph and was balanced with a healthy vegan bowl — equally delicious.

Our journey concluded at Ocean Spa, perched on the waterfront. With three large pools and two spas overlooking the ocean, we spent the afternoon alternating cool dips with hot soaks, leaving us refreshed and renewed — a perfect bookend to our Hawke’s Bay adventure.

BAY TO BAY