Taste of tradition

One word sums up this Tauranga restaurant: Classic. A classic setting, classic cuisine, and classic vibes make it a local favourite for a reason.

words Hayley Barnett

Mention Harbourside to a Bay local and you’ll hear nothing but good things. As the pinnacle of traditional fine dining here, it offers everything you need from a waterfront eatery – stunning views, great food, friendly service, and a refined yet unpretentious vibe.

Having bought the restaurant back in 2011, husband and wife team Peter and Anita Ward know how lucky they are to own such a perfect spot on the Tauranga Harbour. There’s nothing else quite like it.

Peter had been managing Harbourside for four years when they jumped at the offer to purchase the restaurant. In that time he’d learned exactly what their clientele expected, mainly because they’d tell him.

“Consistency is key,” says Peter. “Even now, if you take something off the menu we’re nearly run out of town.”

The menu is full of classic dishes with a blend of Kiwiana and South Pacific tastes, as well as time-honoured European fare. Only slight variations are made during the change of menu each season.

“Many people here have traditional values and tastes and they simply want consistent quality,” explains Peter. “We provide that quality and consistency without throwing anything out there that’s too left field. It’s important to meet your market.”

Known for its simple fish and chips, these days other favourites consist of agresto crusted lamb backstrap and the popular Harbourside Seafood Chowder. This isn’t the place to come for an experimental, risky food adventure. Here you know what you’re getting every time.

It's all in the family for Harbourside, with Peter, Anita, Nicole and Cameron running the show.

And most of the staff stay consistent too. These days, it’s a family affair with Peter and Anita’s son, Cameron, running the kitchen as head chef, Cameron’s wife, Nicole, as maître d', and their son, 18-year-old Taylor, running the bar. Mixing family and business aligns with their ethos of providing a warm, welcoming atmosphere, where they treat their guests like family. It’s a formula that works and owner Peter isn’t about to do anything silly like change it.

“For us when we first arrived in Tauranga, Harbourside became our staple,” says Peter. “We’d get a table outside, order a wine and fish and chips. It was our favourite spot to be.”

That’s exactly what they want to continue offering to diners: a perfect experience in a tranquil setting, where you’re comfortable enough to order the fish and chips.

Harboursidetauranga.co.nz

At the water’s edge

Down on the harbour you’ll find this elegant, light-filled eatery, where the food is just as appealing as the view.

Words Karl Puschmann

You’d be hard-pressed to find somewhere to eat with a more spectacular view than The Restaurant at Trinity Wharf. Perched on three piers that stretch out and over the glistening waters of Tauranga’s harbour, the only way to get any closer to the water would be to jump in.

It’s a view that would improve any meal. But Trinity Wharf’s executive chef Rob Forsman, doesn’t want the food to simply match the gorgeous views, he wants it to exceed them. Rob’s been working in restaurants for close to 25 years. During this time he’s worked as head chef for Aotearoa’s restaurant royalty like Simon Gault, Al Brown and the Bay’s Kitchen Takeover team before moving to Trinity Wharf 18 months ago.

It’s a long way from his humble beginnings. “I started as a kitchen hand,” he says. “It was out of necessity. I didn’t grow up dreaming of being a chef. That would be a really cool story to tell but it’s not the case. I’ve always enjoyed cooking, but it didn’t occur to me as a job until I started washing dishes.”

He spent well over a year in the “dish pit,” picking up knowledge around the kitchen and getting trained in the basics. Soon enough his days of scrubbing pans were over and his passion had been ignited. Not just for the work, but for kitchen culture itself.

“To be in a team of hardworking people who are all single-minded in their vision and all working toward the same goal is an amazing feeling. It epitomises kitchen work.”

He worked his way up the chain of command until he attracted the attention of Simon Gault, who offered him the head chef role at Ponsonby’s acclaimed Jervois Steak House. He was there for three years before accepting the head chef role with Al Brown at the trendy Federal Delicatessen beside Sky City.

“I loved working in these places. AI’s whole vision was to treat customers like friends and treat staff like family. It’s inspirational.”

That’s the mindset he’s instilling in his staff at Trinity Wharf. He wants to inspire and feel that inspiration himself. If the kitchen’s cooking, so to speak, then he reasons the food will take care of itself.

To that end, his first priority was to refresh the menu.

“We now use New Zealand ingredients and try to source as much as we can locally. There’s a lot of great produce and fruit in this part of the country and we want to support local business as well.”

While adapting from the single-focused restaurant business to the multi-faceted role at Trinity Wharf, with its multitude of menus for various occasions, events and the day-to-day, has been a challenge, it’s one he’s embraced.

Looking out over the glistening sea which is right outside the window, he reveals his hopes for The Restaurant at Trinity Wharf.

“We’d love to become a destination for the local population.” He smiles. “We’d absolutely love that.” 

ASK THE CHEF

Rob Forsman takes on UNO’s quickfire questions.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had?

The street food in Southeast Asia. It’s not a polished, plated meal but the flavours are insane. It’s so humble but the love has been put into it. I recently went to Indonesia and ate my way around. I didn’t eat any Western food at all.

What’s your earliest food memory?

Baking bread with my grandmother. I was really little and the process was like magic to me – kneading the dough and seeing how it rises. Her secret was to pop it under the bed to proof.

How can you make everyone’s most disliked vegetable, Brussels sprouts, tasty?

Blanch them in a little bit of salt and sugar to take the bitterness off. Get some bacon nice and crispy, some caramelised onions, some chilli if it takes your fancy, and then toss them all together in the frying pan with some butter until you get a little colour on the Brussels sprouts. Colour is king.

What’s the next big trend in food?

I think people are going to start consuming a lot less meat. It’s become too expensive, and there’s a lot more awareness around the environmental impact. I think meat is on its way out. Slowly. We’ll never get rid of it. It’ll just become more opulent. More special. 

Trinitywharf.co.nz

On a roll

The Mount’s favourite sushi fusion restaurant and bar, Satori Lounge, has moved across the bridge to bigger, better and far more modern premises on The Strand.

Words Hayley Barnett

Lisa Wilson never pictured herself in hospitality, let alone owning and running one of the most popular sushi restaurants in the Bay. She didn’t even like raw fish. But, 13 years ago, that’s exactly what happened, and now she can’t imagine doing anything else.

“It was an accident, really,” says Lisa, gesturing towards her expansive, modern eatery on The Strand in Tauranga, which is right now heaving with the inner-city weekday lunch crowd.

“My ex is Chilean and sushi is huge in South America, so he talked me into giving him some of my savings to start a sushi restaurant in the Mount. Of course, he kept needing more and more money until eventually I didn’t have any savings left. And then we broke up!”

Lisa found herself having to quickly take the reins, all while working her day job in banking to stay afloat. 

After one too many reviews stating that the food was great but the service needed some work, Lisa realised she’d have to quit her day job and take on the restaurant full-time – and to stop responding to those reviews with “If you want quick service, head to McDonald’s.”

“It took me a while to learn that the customer is always right,” laughs Lisa.

Today is Tuesday – gluten-free day – at her new premises. It’s always been popular, but now that Satori Lounge has moved across the bridge, every day is popular.

It could be the new office crowds that she’s catering for, but I suggest it might be the fact that Satori Lounge has such a great reputation for fresh (and fast) sushi with a difference.

All the best dishes are still on the menu, like my personal favourites, the Citrus Sushi Roll and the Ceviche Sushi Roll,as well as the Honey Chicken Sushi Roll and, well, everything else.

“I don’t like to change the menu,” explains Lisa. “Chefs have tried but people know our menu and they like it, so why change it?”

It was the Citrus Sushi Roll that was responsible for Lisa’s about-turn on the raw fish front. She added more raw salmon little by little until her tastebuds agreed, and now it’s one of her favourite foods.

Though a change in menu won’t be on the cards, it seems the change in scenery is working to the restaurant’s advantage. Lisa even has plans to landscape the back into a garden area for diners with the help of Blair, her landscaping partner and father to her twin boys. 

So, whether you’re a hardcore sushi fan, or just keen to try the Honey Chicken Roll (the most popular dish), you’ll definitely find something to love about Satori Lounge. And say hi to Lisa if you see her fumbling around the bar area.

“I wasn’t cut out for hospitality,” she assures me. “I love talking to people too much!” Which is, funnily enough, what makes a restaurant so hospitable. That could be part of the reason this not-so-new eatery is really hitting the spot.  

satorilounge.co.nz

All aboard

A dedicated rum bar in the Mount is making waves with its refined mixology and sophisticated eats.

Words Hayley Barnett

It’s official: The rum revival is real. While 2023 is being hailed as the year rum makes its comeback, there’s one new bar and eatery getting fully on board with the trend.

The dynamic duo behind Mount Maunganui’s Brew Co and Hide Thirst and Hunger recently set sail with another gem, Sailor Galley and Rum Bar. Also located along the Mount Main Street, where the now-closed Fish Face eatery was situated, this new project is a labour of love.

When the space came up for sale Matt and Kimberley Hayward jumped at the chance to secure it, with the aim of expanding its back garden terrace for the summer crowds, to take full advantage of the sun-laden deck.

The original plan was to set up a sophisticated wine bar, after the couple recognised a need for bars and eateries targeted at their more mature clientele. But, mulling over the idea, they decided it would be much more fun to do something a little bit different – and more relevant to their sunny seaside surroundings. And so they ran with the idea of a rum bar.

Matt and Kimberley have held true to their promise of sophistication – this isn’t some grubby old sailor’s quarters. The restaurant gives off more of a super yacht vibe. The modern fit-out feels very much like a wine bar, but offers premium rum and delicious cocktails, from local labels like Armada Spirits in Pāpāmoa, to rums further afield like Flor De Caña from Nicaragua.

The menu is suitably sumptuous with dishes like Smoked Bone Marrow on Sourdough and Burnt Butter Crumpet with Blue Swimmer Crab. 

Despite the name, the menu isn't too heavy on seafood. Executive chef Perrin Yates, former chef of Picnicka and Clarence Bistro, has designed a travel-inspired culinary journey offering up a good mix of refined and favourite go-tos – some of which are blended to create something delightfully gourmet yet casual. 

On the snack menu is the popular Boston Crayfish Roll as well as the Parmesan Churros with fire roasted capsicum sauce, both equally tasty.

Regardless of whether you're a sun lover, a rum drinker, or just a fan of good food, Sailor will hit the spot. 

Sailormount.nz

Take a dive

UNO editor Hayley Barnett experiences the quintessential American dive bar experience that is Palace Tavern.

Walking past all the bright, shiny bars and eateries on the Mount's main drag, Brad Dellar and Sam King had a revelation. There was nowhere they wanted to go. They were tired of frequenting bars that only catered to certain people of a certain age bracket and felt there was nowhere men in their thirties truly belonged. They wanted dark and dingy – where everyone knew their name, but no one cared to use it.

"We wanted it to have an American dive bar sort of feel," says Sam. "A place where the locals can come hang out, have a beer, a burger, a game of pool – we spent a lot of money on that pool table!"

Having originally opened around the corner as Palace Burger on the Mount main street, Sam and Brad decided to start over with the décor and a rebrand when they moved to Banks Ave in November, 2022. 

The glass 80s-style ashtrays outside give you a taste of what you're in for. Indeed, the bar is dark and dingy but, strangely, the UNO team don't want to leave.

The menu is mouth-wateringly good. From the Buffalo Burger to the Hoedown, there's a definite American vibe going on, with a bit of a Kiwi twist. The Crispy Boy is packed with potato crisps, along with a smashed patty, bacon, cheese and onion. I went for the Classic Chicken, one of their most popular burgers, and washed it down with Maple Butter Wings, Jalapeño Poppers and Cheese n Gravy Fries. If you're going to eat like a man, you might as well do it right. 

Everything was perfectly more-ish, tasty and extremely satisfying – exactly how Brad and Sam like their food.

"...We're not really the place to come if you're trying to lose weight."

Palace Tavern might have been set up as a place for 30-something men, but they've set it up so well that it's naturally become inclusive. "We've made our fair share of lettuce burgers, but we're not really the place to come if you're trying to lose weight," laughs Sam. 

And, despite refusing to play Top 20 hits, they can't hold the crowds back once the wee hours of the morning swing round. "We have long lines right up the road every weekend," says Brad.

It's a dark place with a cool vibe, cold craft beer, amazing cocktails and great food. It's the place Brad and Sam always wanted to go. And, now that we've been, it's a place we can't wait to head back to.  

Palaceburger.nz

Rolling in the deep

Mount Maunganui welcomes a restaurant that really is worth its salt.

 WORDS Hayley Barnett

Walking into Saltwater, you can practically smell the sea air and hear the gentle clanging of the docks. Its nautical theming, all clean whites, crisp blues and deep wood instantly reminds you of where you are, and really gets your stomach grumbling for some of Aotearoa’s finest seafood.

There’s a lot to take in and the vibe is buzzing. Diners chatter, the open kitchen is a hive of activity and the lengthy ice bar tempts with a salivating range of freshly caught fish, oysters, scallops, mussels and other seafood delights. 

Everything about this seafood grill and oyster bar, that’s located in the middle of the main strip of Mount Maunganui, feels premium. Everything, that is, except the prices.

“We wanted it to be approachable. We didn’t want a pretentious seafood restaurant that most of the country
can’t go to,” co-owner Nick Potts says. “We wanted fish n’ chips, fish burger, Coromandel mussels. These are all great dishes but we didn’t want a price tag that was unattainable by the public.”

Along with his business partner Jay Thomas, they’ve given classic Kiwi kai an upmarket makeover while keeping a relaxed and welcoming vibe to the restaurant. Along with those favourites, there’s also more exotic dishes like grilled octopus, a soft shell crab burger and freshly prepared sashimi on offer.

And if fish isn’t your dining partner’s bag, there’s a range of non-seafood dishes to try, including Eye Fillet Carpaccio, a beef burger and a coconut curry.

But it’s hard to see your appetite returning to land after grazing the menu and its ocean treats. The calamari came in a jovially light batter and was served with Cajun mayo that had a delicious bite to it. My fiancé enjoyed the prawn po-boy so much he seriously considered ordering another and I couldn’t get enough of those ocean-fresh oysters and mussels. 

“We’ve tried to keep the seafood as the hero of the dish. We haven’t tried to overcomplicate it with huge flavours,” Nick explained. “It’s about the quality of the seafood we’re using. It’s about great food that anyone will enjoy.”

Nick also owns fine-dining restaurant Solera down the road so, as you’d expect, everything here is mouth-wateringly delicious. And, now that it's opened, it’s hard to believe there wasn’t a seafood restaurant of this quality here already. It seems such an obvious fit for the sea-loving folk who live in and around the Mount. 

saltwaterseafood.co.nz

Home away from home

If Tauranga’s Redoubt Eatery isn’t already your local, get down there for some comfortable vibes, good conversation and signature Sticky Chicken.

Words Dan Collins  |  Photos Erin Cave

Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came. Those may be the lyrics to the theme tune of the old classic sitcom Cheers, but for Jacob Henderson, proprietor of Redoubt Eatery, they’re words to live by. “Redoubt is your home away from home,” he says when UNO pops in on a sunny Tauranga afternoon. “You get greeted by name. You don’t have to try too hard or try and be cool. It’s that kind of place.”

Situated about halfway down Tauranga’s picturesque promenade of The Strand, it’s that easygoing and down-to-earth attitude that typifies and differentiates the Redoubt experience. It’s welcoming and unpretentious. The kind of place that knows your name and what you drink, and gets them ready for you as you walk in.

“You don’t have to study a wine list that’s got five sauv blancs, you’ve just got the one,” Jacob says by way of example. “It’s good. It’s reliable. You feel safe and comfortable.” Jacob’s fresh perspective on what makes a place worth visiting could stem from the fact that he’s new to the Tauranga scene and excited to be here. “We’ve got one Redoubt Eatery in Morrinsville and one in Matamata,” he says. “We wanted to see if what we do is good enough to work in the big city.”

It may have only opened its doors in August but it certainly seems to be working. There are plenty of people coming through the doors and, most importantly to Jacob, an ever-growing number of regulars settling in and making Redoubt their local.

He describes the move into town as a happy accident. His cousin walked past one day earlier this year and saw that the previous establishment was for sale. He called Jacob, who immediately spotted the potential. “We thought it was the best location, being on the corner here, and with that deck upstairs. Initially, we thought that deck might be a pain, but it’s such a great area. It’s one of the few places along here where you can see out into the harbour.”

Those gorgeous elevated harbour views are bound to make it a favourite for long summer lunches or post-work evening drinks. “Just about every second person is asking for a table up there. We’re praying for that weather!” he jokes.

With seating for 70 people, Redoubt should be able to accommodate most sun-chasers. But to be on the safe side, you can always book a table. In fact, Jacob says, the team are happy to accommodate wherever they can. It’s all part of making Redoubt Eatery feel like a second home. It’s a philosophy that’s come from Redoubt being a part of his family legacy.

“The first Redoubt Eatery opened in 1999 in Te Awamutu. That was opened by my parents,” he says. “In 2002 my wife and I were overseas. My father rang and asked if I wanted to lease the pub. We said yes, came back and leased the pub for about two years while they went overseas.”

When his parents returned, it was obvious there were now too many chefs in the kitchen, so Jacob and his wife started looking around. In 2006 they opened a Redoubt Eatery in Matamata. The original in Te Awamutu was sold around 2016 so is no longer part of the family. However, Matamata was going so well that they opened a Redoubt Eatery in Morrinsville in 2018.

“Morrinsville doesn’t have a huge amount of eateries,” he says. “It’s nice to go to a place where you’re needed and it was a great opportunity. You always like to think you’re pretty cool and that what you do would work everywhere. Morrinsville went really well. When we went from one to two, it didn’t feel like a huge strain. We’ve got a bit of confidence. That’s why we got so excited about The Strand and thought, ‘What we do could work.’”

That said, some things have been tweaked for the Tauranga market. The decor and fit-out is fairly similar, with sports photos and memorabilia – like an autographed Mike Tyson boxing glove and photos of famous local sports heroes – decorating the walls, but the food and drinks menus have been given a slight makeover. Again, with the specific goal of making you feel relaxed.

“We don’t want people to feel intimidated. We don’t want you to have pretend that you know what certain words mean you know,” he laughs. “We want it to be very Kiwi-themed and comfortable. Certainly good and certainly fresh and seasonal. That goes without saying. But I don’t want anyone to feel intimidated when you’re in here. People can pick up the bone and stuff like that.”

He says they kept on some of the staff from the previous establishment, including the head chef Johnny, who presented his new owners with some ideas for the menu. “It was really impressive. His food is bloody good,” Jacob enthuses. “So the menu is different from Matamata and Morrinsville, except for one dish.”

This is Redoubt Eatery’s secret weapon, their hit. The one thing he knew they had to serve. “It’s called the Sticky Chicken. It’s our biggest seller in Matamata. It’s our biggest seller in Morrinsville and now it’s our biggest seller in Tauranga,” he grins as he talks about the chicken dish that comes drizzled in a ginger sauc and served on coconut rice. “It’s comfort food. We can’t take it off. It just goes off. It’s one of the few dishes that’s on the lunch and dinner menu.”

Again, the word “comfort” comes up when Jacob talks about Redoubt. It’s something incredibly important to him, and it turns out there’s a very good reason why. “When I was 19, I was travelling the world and ended up in this town in West Cork, Ireland called Clonakilty. The first day I was there, I went into this pub and the guy behind the bar urged me to try a Murphys and introduced me to a couple of locals. About a week later I was still jobless, running out of money and it was raining. I was thinking my dreams of travelling the world were over. I walked back into the pub and Barry was behind the bar again. He went, ‘Jacob! How are ya mate? Here’s your Murphys.’I just felt like I belonged, and he made me feel special. I thought, ‘This is where I want to be.’ I stayed there for two years. It turned everything around. “That’s what we want to do. It’s so cool to walk in and have someone say, ‘G’day, Jake, here’s your drink.’” 

That’s the vibe Jacob wants to create. A home away from a home. A place where everybody knows your name and… Well, you get the idea. This philosophy of creating a community even  extends to the photos lining the walls. “The vast majority of the pictures on the wall are of Tauranga things, Tauranga heroes or Tauranga villains. We’re always looking to grow that,” he explains before giving an example.

“I was talking to a mate and his son won the New Zealand freestyle scooter award. He’s a kid, 15 years old, and does triple flips and stuff. We’re gonna get his photo and put it up on the wall. He’ll sit next to Kane Williamson there – who goes without introduction,” he says pointing to a blank spot beside the Tauranga-raised Black Caps captain.

“That’s what makes a good local!” Jacob exclaims. “What I want is for you to be able to sit here and go, ‘That’s my bloody neighbour on the wall!' Because then you feel like you belong there. Eventually, these walls will be covered. I want a photo of your second cousin who played hockey for New Zealand in 1985. People like that. I reckon that’s worthy of being on the wall.”

Jacob’s vision for Redoubt Eatery – and, of course, its signature dish, the Sticky Chicken – should ensure it’s a hit. A relaxed place where you can go with your mates to catch up and chill out with a drink or two and grab something delicious to eat. If only there was a word for something like that. Turns out there is. “One of the meanings of the word Redoubt is ‘a place of refuge or safe haven’,” Jacob smiles. “So I quite like that as well.” 

redoubt.nz/the-strand

Pearl of the Bay

Good food, good coffee and good vibes are top priorities for
the new owners of Pāpāmoa’s award-winning Pearl Kitchen.

Words Monique Balvert-O’Connor Photos Rachel Hadfield

Nestled in the heart of Coast Boulevard in Pāpāmoa Beach, Pearl Kitchen has become an iconic spot, with an amazing team behind it.

A relaxed place, with an ethos centred on delivering “banging coffee, delicious food and vibrant staff”, it's the perfect place to enjoy hearty food packed with ingredients by local growers and suppliers. And it’s also a “go to” on Friday night, offering drinks, tapas and gourmet pizza, to unwind after the working week.

How good does all that sound? It gets better. Pearl Kitchen is the winner of the most recent Bay Hospitality Awards’ Outstanding Café accolade.

To its many loyal followers, the award was no surprise. Just ask one customer who travels from Whakatāne and back specifically for breakfast Pearl Kitchen style. And, in the words of a local: “Gorgeous and well thought out design and layout, fabulous service, delicious and interesting food, perfect coffee, atmosphere, and diet choice sensitivity from staff.”

It's little wonder that Chanel and Justin Rawiri are immensely proud to now own this winning eatery. They’re quick to assure little will be changing, although, of course, a seasonally appropriate menu will be introduced in late October (with the old faves remaining).

“We couldn’t be more excited to join such a talented team and amazing community,” Justin says.

“The key message from us is that we fell in love with Pearl Kitchen just the way it is, so aren’t planning to make any significant changes. It will be the same great team, relaxing vibe, scrumptious food and delicious coffee."

The whole team remains, led by Nigel Reid and Kirsty Moore. Along with key staff David Stuart and Tanesha Horsburgh, all were instrumental in the café’s award-winning success, and are celebrated members of the Pearl Kitchen team with serious credentials, Justin praises.

Chef Nigel Reid started his career as protégé of top New Zealand chef Simon Gault. After a seven-year stint overseas, Nigel returned to become Simon's right-hand man as group head chef for the Nourish Group. Cooking in London for a group of restaurants (under the Cubitt House umbrella), he had the opportunity to serve some of the world's elite and even some royals. Back in New Zealand he’s played an integral part in setting up top eateries. He includes Pearl Kitchen on that list. 

Nigel, who loves people who love food, can be found front and centre in Pearl's open kitchen warmly welcoming its patrons each day. His recipes are inspired by travel, family and the seasons. 

“Creating and leading with passion, I share my own brand of honest and exciting cookery,” he says.

Front-of-house manager Kirsty Moore hails from Edinburgh, Scotland. Armed with a degree in History of Art and Design and a Master’s degree in marketing, she arrived in New Zealand six years ago seeking a complete lifestyle change after working as a marketing manager. Queenstown beckoned and she managed Mrs Ferg (part of the famous Fergburger empire) there. Tauranga has been home for two years. There’s much to love about working at Pearl Kitchen, she says, such as the great work-life balance, family culture, love for customers, fun environment and delicious food.

David Stuart also hails from Edinburgh and happens to be engaged to Kirsty. David studied Culinary Arts and Food Preparation and worked as a chef in Vietnam, then in Melbourne, and also at an award-winning cocktail bar (with a focus on small bites) in Edinburgh. Add to that five years clocked up as head chef of a Mexican restaurant in Queenstown, before moving to Pearl Kitchen as sous chef. His experience and knowledge of Asian-style dishes influences Pearl Kitchen’s much-enjoyed Friday night tapas menu.

Rosario Ross Murro identified his passion for pizza at an early age – he began work as a pizza chef at 14! From Puglia, Italy (a region known for its great food and beaches), Rosario makes a true Italian-style pizza with hand-stretched sourdough and fresh ingredients, cooked in Pearl Kitchen’s wood-fired oven. He has been in New Zealand for four years, working in Melbourne beforehand.

Love a good cocktail? If yes, then chances are you may already know of Tanesha Horsburgh. This Pāpāmoa local studied Food and Beverage Hotel Management before finding her niche in hospitality. She moved from Auckland to help open Pearl Kitchen, where she now looks after the bar and drinks menu. Her Friday night cocktail specials are a highlight of the week for many customers.

As for new owners, Chanel and Justin, they’re proud to have such an excellent team of 17, and excited to be part of the greater Pearl Kitchen community. The couple moved from Auckland with their young apprentices – Charlotte (4) and Georgia (2.5) – to a region that was already familiar. Justin grew up in Tauranga, and both have family here. 

“We are both foodies and we bought Pearl Kitchen because we love it," says Chanel. "We look forward
to becoming part of such a great community." 

Pearl Kitchen, 20 Coast Boulevard
Open: Saturday – Thursday 8am–2pm
Friday 8am–8pm (Happy Hour 4pm-6pm)

Pearlkitchen.co.nz

Insta: pearlcafecoast

Sister act

Good things come in threes – and Nectar, the third hospitality venue from sisters Jess Mackenzie and Shelby Rafferty, certainly brings charm and class to Tauranga’s social scene.

Words Monique Balvert-O’Connor / Photos Erin Cave + supplied

When Jessica (Jess) Mackenzie and Shelby Rafferty say Tauranga’s new hospitality offering named Nectar delivers something excitingly different for the city, best believe them.

Not only are the two sisters the owners/creators of Nectar, they also know their patch. Located at 97 The Strand, Nectar is but a hop, skip, and jump from The Crown and Badger and Volare – both owned by this young duo. Jess (30) and her parents bought Crown and Badger five years ago, and about a year ago, Shelby (26) returned from her nursing job – and lengthy pandemic lockdowns – in Melbourne to secure an ownership interest in all three places. Jessica has assured her there will be time for a breather on the buying front now that property number three has been purchased! After all, the sisters are “super excited” about Nectar and are loving watching an appreciative public become acquainted with this new offering on the block.

It's hard, they say, to define Nectar’s “excitingly different” vibe within a mere sentence. So, they offer a few…

“It’s a premium venue without the pretentiousness. It’s a place to hang out and it incorporates some Melbournian kind of fun.

“It’s an all-day eatery (a day and night place), a place to relax with special occasion food in an inviting atmosphere. 

“Think big-city vibes, not standard café food. It’s not a café and not a wine bar. The food’s delicious and flavour-wise diners can expect to be pushed and challenged. There are lots of sharing plates to suit Nectar’s social theme.

“There are couches by the fire, high leaners, mid-height leaners, tables, and booths. There are power plugs and USB chargers everywhere as Nectar is wired for connectivity. It really is a hangout.

“It offers a sense of elegance. It’s also relaxing and classy, approachable and fun. It’s a balance between lots of wonderful things – and a place where people want to be.” 

It is also an undeniably beautiful place, in terms of both locality and décor. Jess has been making eyes at the building (long-time home to Japanese restaurant Tikara) for the last four years. 

“I have stared out at it from the Crown and Badger, thinking, ‘I need that big site with its full sun.’ When I knew it was coming up, I knew we had to get in quick. It’s so beautiful, and has water views too,” she enthuses. The corner site can sit 48 inside comfortably, but 150 all up when the pavement area is included.  

Sitting inside is inarguably a delight, thanks to interiors with wow. 

“There’s greenery galore – it’s a bit of a jungle,” Shelby laughs, adding that there’s a lot going on, but it works so well. Décor delights include glossy green tiles, oak features including a wall in a stunning herringbone pattern, hand-blown glass light fittings of varying shapes, gorgeous upholstery, rimu and tawa floorboards, and walls of green (painted by Shelby and Jess). There’s also rainforest-themed wallpaper and a dramatic, 2.5 metre-tall mural featuring a woman at one with plants. It’s “unique and empowering and perfect.”

The seating booths and oak features were created by Christchurch company Harrows, and Auckland’s Sophie Burns of Burning Red Interior Design masterminded the interior design. Other than that, the focus was very much on local creatives, from both the big details to the small. The entire fit out was tackled by Mt Maunganui-based Ramma Construction, the dramatic mural is the work of local artist Millie Newitt, and the water jugs are from the pottery wheels of Waihi’s Laughing Pottery. As for the logistical side of things, Jess, who has a management degree and extensive international hospitality experience, did much of the project management too, working alongside the Ramma Construction team. 

Being hands-on and full-on is how Jess and Shelby rock. But they have, of course, called on key people as part of Nectar’s ongoing team. People like Martin Allan, who designed the menu and is executive chef (he’s ensured there’s lots of plant-based food, and meat and fish can certainly be found on the menu). And people like bar manager Katie Short, who has created cocktails especially for Nectar. 

“She does a bloody good Bloody Mary and a magnificent matcha cocktail called You’ve Met Your Matcha,” Shelby attests. Nectar also boasts an extensive and very good wine list and great coffee, too.

Also an integral part of the team is Jess and Shelby’s mother, who still does the books but admits it’s quite tricky these days with so many moving parts. Their “very grounded” dad remains an encouraging mentor, who keeps them moving forward. The couple (who raised their children in Gisborne) have retired to Russell, happily leaving their daughters to thrive at the coalface. And thriving they are.

Says Jess, “It’s been a long journey and a big logistical exercise. We signed the lease about 18 months ago, but have been dreaming it up for a long time.  

“We are super excited about this, and super excited for Tauranga, too.”

@nectar.eatery

Immerse yourself in the heart and soul of Italy at Alpino Cambridge

Those of us lucky enough to have visited Italy pre-Covid will recall a classic scene in our minds, perhaps a packed piazza filled with intimate restaurants, and incredible aromas of food and wine lingering in the electric atmosphere. That celebratory Italian spirit has been captured a little closer to home at Cambridge restaurant Alpino, thanks to two people who know it by heart. Owned by Italian-born Noel Cimadom and Riccardo Carminati, along with Noel’s wife Kim Smythe, Alpino (which you might also recognise from the Mount) serves the soul of Italy on a plate.

“When you enter Alpino, you feel so welcome, you get amazing service and good food,” says Riccardo. “The overall experience is about fun and enjoyment. The restaurant is always full, and the essence of it is truly Italian. You could have this restaurant in Milano and it would be packed; we’ve really put our soul into it.”

To ensure a completely immersive experience, the wine list is flush with Italian labels, many offered by the glass to complement your dish. Riccardo says the menu goes from the simple yet flavourful pizzas to more formal mains, such as the 55-day aged beef, the porchetta and the ravioli handmade with locally grown pumpkin and ricotta by head chef Branislav Petkovic. “We can source ingredients from Italy, but we’re at a point where we’re almost revisiting Italian food with what we have here,” says Riccardo, “It’s still authentic Italian food, but incorporating local elements takes it to the next level.”

Italy can wait – we’re taking a trip to Cambridge instead.

ALPINO.CO.NZ

43 Victoria Street,Cambridge

Modern hearth cooking at Solera - Mount Maunganui’s exciting new restaurant in a wine bar setting

Truffle oil is being drizzled over cheesecake, polenta skewers toast happily on the hearth and a Jerusalem artichoke is being crowned with shards of fire-dried aubergine purée.

It’s all go in the kitchen at Solera, Mt Maunganui’s newish restaurant within a wine bar setting. And, if you (wisely) opt for one of the seats at the chef’s pass, get ready to watch a whole host of such culinary wonders unfold. Plus, the chefs are more than happy to dish up information about what they’re working on.

Solera is the baby of Chloe Ashman and Nick Potts – the result of an idea born out of lockdown. The couple moved to the Bay of Plenty a few years back, armed with years of impressive hospitality experience, Chloe as a sous chef at some of Melbourne’s best restaurants and Nick as a front-of-house manager. Managing a team of 60 in restaurants with serious credentials (among them those owned by top New Zealand chefs Nic Watt and Sean Connolly) was all in a day’s work for Nick. Initially, the couple had no intention of owning a restaurant, so worked at local establishments including Clarence and Fife Lane, but with last year’s lockdown came a lot of time for thinking. They thought it was time for a leap, noticing a potential gap in the Mount market. “We thought we may as well have our own place,” says Nick. “We knew what we wanted to open – we just gauged that by where we’d like to eat ourselves. We knew we wanted a wine bar setting, but Solera is very Melbournian in that it’s not just a bar. There’s something great to eat here too.”

It appears the multitudes concur. Solera bustles. Nick felt a restaurant with seating for about 40 was the way to go. “We have three chefs and three – and sometimes one more – working front of house, and with that number of seats, regardless of how busy you are, the same team can manage. Also important is the fact we’re open only five days a week, because I want the same chefs delivering their same food every time, so we can control consistency.”

Solera’s offering is described as “modern hearth cooking” and the menu is created around sharing plates. Head chef Neil Sapitula tells me the hot faves appear to be the ash-cured kingfish with ginger, coconut, kawakawa and lime; the roasted cauliflower with camembert, walnuts, parmesan and pine nuts; and the apple and pear tarte tatin with ginger and kaffir lime ice- cream. As for Neil’s favourite – that’d be the Jerusalem artichoke with aubergine, kimchi and chili. Neil hails from the Philippines and has also worked in restaurants of high repute, in Hong Kong and Indonesia. He’s ably assisted by Kiwi chef Cameron McKenzie, with Nicolo Batani adding some Italian to the mix. The trio is united in prioritising flavour over technique and presentation. There’s also a focus on fermentation – cases in point being the inclusion of the aforementioned kimchi, and the shiitake mushrooms that are pickled, smoked on the fire, then added to the pork belly skewer. Most items on the menu have a slight Asian influence – the wagyu beef, for example, is marinated with soy and togarashi spice mix.

The kitchen’s big open fire is fed with mānuka and oak timber, and incorporated as much as possible in the cooking (which is also a delightful spectacle). The kingfish cured by ash from the night before is but one example. There’s a strong commitment to local ingredients and the menus are printed in-house, so they’re easy to alter to suit what’s in season. There’s certainly plenty to raise your glass to at Solera, and of course that includes the incredible wines. The unique list celebrates New Zealand drops and includes grape varieties many diners may not be so familiar with, exclusively from smaller wineries. Chenin blanc, malbec and viognier are joined by chilled red wine and an orange wine (white wine made the same way as a red.) All are offered as a standard 150ml pour and as a 100ml pour, with the latter geared towards those who are driving or wishing to try a larger variety of wines. There are cocktails too. Solera has been in business since Easter, but word has spread, and Chloe and Nick are happy to report that “it’s going very well for us.” Diners like me can only say, “Thank you very much.”

SOLERA.NZ

A dash of the special sauce.

New restaurant Sugo serves Italian food at its finest – fancy-ish but wholly fuss-free.

When Ian Harrison says Tauranga’s new eatery, Sugo, is his happy place, it’s a comment to savour. He’s opened 19 restaurants and hotels on behalf of others, five of them in two years as an executive chef, and cooked his way around the world for 20-plus years working with chefs of high repute and at Michelin-starred restaurants. Until recently, his dream was to own an intimate fine-dining restaurant, but now he’s toned it down a tad – and he couldn’t be happier. He suspects New Zealand has rubbed off on him.

British-born Ian is chef and co-owner of Sugo, which became a tasty addition to Tauranga’s eating scene in early November. “It’s contemporary, seasonal, fresh and a nod to Italy, but it’s also no fuss,” he says. “I now know I’ll never open that fine-dining restaurant I used to dream about. I just want good, fresh food in a relaxed setting. I think I’ve become a Kiwi!”

Ian came to New Zealand for eight months, 10 years ago. He fell in love with the country – and one of its inhabitants, whom he’s since wed. Five years were spent in Auckland then it was on to the Bay of Plenty, where he was executive chef at Alpino and Clarence. At Alpino, he sharpened his skills in Italian cuisine; at Clarence he fine-tuned his European-Kiwi tools. “Those combined, brought me to Sugo,” he says.

On Wharf Street, Sugo is hard to miss. The facade of the Italian-inspired eatery is green, white lights and planters hang overhead, and red umbrellas shelter tables topped with terracotta plant pots. There’s an abundance of décor wow indoors, where a variety of seating options cater for 60 to 70. Alfresco dining numbers (when the Wharf Street upgrade is completed) will sit at 50. 

Sugo’s tagline is “Italian inspired” and Ian believes anyone who’s been to Italy will taste the connection. Ian, who preserves and ferments as well as cooks, enthuses over seasonal and fresh food, and says pasta and antipasti are stars, as are unsung heroes in the meat world. ‘Sugo’ means ‘sauce’ and there’ll be plenty of that – he’s a dab hand at making them and they’re a key element in Italian cooking.

Instead of fussing excessively over presentation and the addition of numerous ingredients, Ian says he’d rather spend time finding suppliers (he has about 19) who offer top-notch products. “I want to source the best ingredients I can find, do as little as possible to them, then deliver so the products can sing. He doesn’t see the need for too many ingredients per dish, either, nor an extensive menu.

Ian and business partners Josh Fitzgerald and Warren and Megan Lippi-Smith have ensured Sugo dining is also relatively affordable – most mains are $30 and nothing’s over $35. A lunch menu will be added in February, perfect for those working in the CBD. Oh, and free of charge are dog biscuits made on-site for visiting pooches. 

“I’m cooking good food, enjoying myself and making my mum and dad proud,” says Ian. “This place reminds me why I got into doing what I do.”

SUGO.CO.NZ

New restaurants Fire and No.8 bring an international influence to the main Mount strip

WORDS Jenny Rudd PHOTOS LOTTIE HEDLEY

There’s a casual glamour to both the Mount’s newest restaurants Fire and No.8 and their owners Lloyd Rooney and Mike Fraser.

Lloyd and Mike are dashingly handsome men, and their stories about life before owning a string of six restaurants dotted around the North Island are memoir-worthy. Lloyd joined the hospitality industry as a waiter at what was then one of the hottest spots in London, Café Delancey.

“I was 23 years old,” he says. “It was the place to go on a Sunday – there’d be a queue an hour-long down Camden High Street. I loved it and it came very naturally to me. I knew how to give every customer a great experience while turning the tables over quickly and keeping everyone in the kitchen on side.”

The Brit subsequently went on to run famous Primrose Hill gastropub The Engineer for Tamsin Olivier, daughter of Sir Laurence, then bought his own pub next to Lord’s cricket ground. While studying law by day, he worked full-time in a theatre in the West End at night, looking after celebrities and the Royal Family in the box. After running an interior design business with studios in upmarket Chelsea and Islington, Lloyd met Kiwi Mike. The couple eventually moved to New Zealand and bought a farm in the Waikato, called Highgate.

“One minute I was styling the interior of a three-storey London townhouse, the next I was drenching calves in my welly boots!” says Lloyd. “I remember one day rescuing a heifer that’d got stuck down the road, with my dog Jetson and my goat Crusty, and thinking how much things had changed.”

“We had Highgate for eight years, and it took a while for the Waikato farmers to get used to Lloyd,” says Mike. “In the early days, we organised a fancy-dress party at the local club, and Lloyd turned up in head-to-toe white glitter and angel wings!” This morning, Lloyd has arrived at the Mount with a car full of vegetables and meat. “Mike grows herbs and vegetables for all our restaurants; the boot’s full of coriander, chillies and capsicums,” he says. “Our head chef at The Dune in Mangawhai is smoking meat round the clock now to keep up with all the restaurants. That gate-to-plate aspect is important to us. It’s certainly not the easiest way of doing things, but we know that it elevates the dining experience.”

I’ve eaten at both Fire and No.8 (not to mention Lloyd and Mike’s Whangarei eatery The Quay – I know, tough gig), and each has its own pretty cool thing going on.

Fire serves European-style brasserie food in elegant surroundings with more than a touch of ’70s glamour. Upstairs in the two- storey restaurant, copper lights hang like clustered planets from the ceiling. The view up here is pretty special; because it’s a new building, this outlook of the main street and Mt Drury hasn’t been seen before. By day, the glass facade lets the blue sky set off the rich gold and chocolates of the interior. Lloyd has designed all of his and Mike’s restaurants himself.

“After 12 years spent designing beautiful homes in London, I had the opportunity to bring some of those elements into my restaurants,” he says. “In fact, Fire looks a lot like one of my client’s houses in Islington. I think he’d feel very at home if he came for dinner!”

“With Fire, we wanted to create a beautiful, glamorous and sophisticated restaurant that offers a casual dining experience,” says Mike. “Here, you can dine in a group where one person orders duck confit and another orders a pizza. We want everyone to feel welcome here.” Head chef Shane Kearns, who oversees the kitchens at both Fire and No.8, has recently changed the menu for the winter months, so you can look forward to dishes such as lamb rump with smoked aubergine and cashew parmesan, and my favourite, the entrée of pork rillette with marinated prawns, orange purée and coriander shoots.

Whereas Fire’s menu envelops you in the delicious warmth of decades of nostalgia, No.8’s Asian fusion wakes you up by looking to the future. From Europe to Asia in about 20 paces, Lloyd has had some fun designing this restaurant. The bamboo-print wallpaper and pops of red in the lighting and glass candle holders feel mysterious yet modern. Located on the building’s ground floor (with Fire next door and on the floor above), No. 8 spills out onto the long terrace that it shares with Fire. It’s covered and has heaters running its length, so you can eat and drink outside whatever the weather.

No. 8’s menu includes all sorts of exciting goodies and you’re encouraged to order plates to share. I have a friend who doesn’t like sharing and always keeps his satay chicken thigh with peanut sambal and lime slaw to himself. Fair enough – we’ll just order more. If you don’t want to be in and out in a hurry, I suggest you book the banquet. You won’t need breakfast the next day. “With Asian fusion, there’s still so much experimenting to be done,” says Lloyd. “You can take it in so many different directions and Shane can innovate to his heart’s content.” The stand-out dish for me happens to be a vegan creation: eggplant tempura with vinegar Sichuan caramel. It’s a crunchy hit of sweet and sour that my brain tells me I need more of.

Every one of the staff at Fire and No.8 looks happy to be there, and it shows in how well each diner is looked after. Lloyd and Mike have just taken the Mount food scene to the next level.

You’ll find Fire and No.8 on the main Mount strip at 113 Maunganui Road. To find out more, visit: FIREATTHEMOUNT.CO.NZ NO8MOUNT.CO.NZ @FIREATTHEMOUNT @NUMBER8ATTHEMOUNT