ITALIAN TOUCH

Hayley Barnett checks out Tauranga’s hot new spot for serious meat lovers, 1920 Cucina and Grill. PHOTOS ILK PHOTOGRAPHY

The husband and wife team behind the Mount’s Mamma Mia Trattoria have crossed a bridge — both metaphorically and literally — to fine dining. Though they’d never admit it and are quick to assure me that this new establishment is much more relaxed than it looks. As we sit in a beautiful heritage building, with its elegant high ceilings and the meat cooked to perfection, it certainly feels close.

Having recently opened 1920 Cucina and Grill at 85 The Strand, Luciano Souza and his wife, chef Cimone Juliani, decided to pour their heritage, history and hearts into this new venture, and it shows.

The couple, both born and raised in southern Brazil to Italian families, carry two culinary cultures in their bones, and for 13 years, the pair’s Mount customers would rave, again and again, about the pasta, but also, oddly enough, the steaks. “Some days I cooked more steak than pasta,” Cimone laughs.

While they’ve always stayed close to their Italian roots, they also dreamed of showcasing the rustic barbecue traditions they grew up with.

“In our region, every house has a barbecue,” Luciano explains. “If you’re not hosting one, you go to someone else’s.”

Barbecuing is as natural as breathing, and when paired with the technique-driven Italian dishes they were raised on, the couple found that a new kind of offering emerged. “We thought, why not focus on meat but keep our Italian touch?” says Cimone.

At 1920 Cucina & Grill, that balance is highlighted in the menu. They use premium New Zealand meat, which is something the pair say they appreciate more after years spent cooking abroad.

“The flavour here is amazing,” Luciano says. “It’s tender, fresh, really good to work with.”

Beef Tartare

Among the dishes earning early attention is the Beef Tartare, a first hint that this might be pretty close to fine dining. The Surf and Turf Carpaccio feels equally indulgent. And Luciano’s beloved Beef Ribs embrace that charcoal-barbecue soul he grew up with, cooked low and slow for bone-hugging flavour.

“We don’t like to think of the menu as being a fusion of flavours, but more a harmony of heritage,” says Cimone.

“Much like the structure that houses us, our Cucina & Grill is grounded in history,” adds Luciano. “Our aim is always to bring to the table traditions passed down by generations of our Italian and Southern Brazilian family.”

Pressed Pork with Parmigiano Risotto

The name 1920 is inspired by the era in which 85 The Strand was built and pays tribute to one of Tauranga’s oldest and most iconic buildings. Behind the scenes, the duo are steadily working toward an even bigger dream: a full charcoal kitchen, the kind used across Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay.

“That’s our second phase,” Cimone says. “We want people to know us first, then we’ll bring in the real barbecue.”

For now, it’s not fine dining, they continue to assure. The couple want the new restaurant to be a place where diners can gather and taste the story of two cultures, but mostly where people feel comfortable while eating good food. They’ve certainly achieved that, and if a little fine-dining magic slips through, well I’d say that only adds to the charm.

85 The Strand, Tauranga

1920.CO.NZ

Italian soul, Kiwi style

Discover a modern taste of Italy with a family legacy at Coco’s Trattoria.

words HAYLEY BARNETT

A love for Italian cuisine runs in the family for owners of the new and beautifully modern Coco’s Trattoria. Chloe Meredith and Nik Zoraja met while working at one of his family's restaurants in Matamata, one of three Italian restaurants owned by Nik’s parents. He was in the kitchen, she worked front of house. Fittingly, Nik’s parents met the same way: chef and waitress, side by side.

Hospitality has long been the family business. While the family's Mount Maunganui eatery recently changed hands, the family still owns the Matamata and Ohakune spots. Now, Chloe and Nik have stepped out on their own with Coco’s.

“We’re really lucky everything has run so smoothly since opening in November last year,” says Chloe. “Our team came with us from previous roles, so they know how we work. It made things seamless, especially with a baby on the way!”

That baby, little Enzo, was just nine weeks old when UNO sat down to chat. “We decided to do it all at once — open a restaurant and have a baby,” Chloe laughs. Coco’s marks new territory for the pair. “We weren’t sure about opening inside a mall. We’ve always been in niche areas and hadn’t worked with a large corporation like Bayfair before. But the support they gave us made it all possible.”

The move has paid off. Steady foot traffic has kept them busy, and they’re looking forward to winter, when cravings for comforting pasta and slow-cooked meats kick in.

When the UNO team visited on a sunny autumn afternoon, two things stood out immediately: the authenticity of the food, and the speed it arrived. Within minutes, the table was brimming with fresh pasta, Napoli-style pizza, Italian snacks, and rich, slow-cooked dishes.

“It’s been a learning curve,” says Chloe. “We’ve never done a sharing-style menu like this. In past restaurants it was entrée, then main. But sharing works well in a faster-paced setting like this.”

Despite its mall location, Coco’s doesn’t feel like it’s in one. With a refined fit-out and a thoughtful menu, it delivers a full restaurant experience.

“While we’re quite traditional, we always say we’re Italian-style, inspired by Italian cuisine, but with a Kiwi twist. For example, traditional Italian pasta isn’t very meaty, but Kiwis love meat, so we adapt.”

Adding to the authenticity, two of their chefs and two front-of-house staff are from Italy. “They often say it reminds them of home. That’s the best feedback we could get.”

Though Coco’s is their first solo venture, Chloe and Nik have brought years of experience, and genuine passion, to the table. Balancing business and new parenthood, they’ve created a space that blends tradition, warmth and a modern take on what great Italian dining should feel like.

COCOSTRATTORIA.CO.NZ